The Down Range Forum
Member Section => Down Range Cafe => Topic started by: TAB on May 05, 2020, 12:18:22 PM
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As talked about in another thread i would soon be drawing up some rough floor plans/ elevations for thr new place.
Thats what is going to happen in this thread
Right now i am trying to determine rather i want to stick build it or icf( insulated concrete forms, think styrofoam cinder blocks you pore concrete into. See this link https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Insulating_concrete_form)
So i guess we should start there with the pros and cons of each.
This decision will weigh heavily on my design. Which hopefully will be come clear after readying some of the pros and cons.
Note, i am interviewing a few professionals today to see who i want to higher to ultimately draw up and stamp the final plans.( i could do everything but stamp them, but nost people won't just stamp them) when i get home from that i will try and post at depth and answer questions.
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Looking forward to this thread. While ICF has some advantages, I think my preference would be stick built. ICF might be the way to go for basement walls and if I was building, something I would look into. My knowledge of such things is not great, so I would have a lot of learning to make sound decisions.
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I live in a wood building built in 1810 . I would definitely go with masonry .
If you can afford the initial investment just the fire protection would make it a better choice.
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The day before our house fire I received an issue of Popular Mechanics, and it was open, where I fell asleep, on the reading table to the article on ISF when the fire hit. Had this technology been around a year earlier, our home would have been constructed with this product. It has turned out better than the article forecast, and the only people I heard grumble about it were those that cut corners and had form blow outs, and those that went to do additions and didn't like paying the price of cutting a solid concrete wall.
I vote ISF, as if you need my approval.
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Looking forward to this thread. While ICF has some advantages, I think my preference would be stick built. ICF might be the way to go for basement walls and if I was building, something I would look into. My knowledge of such things is not great, so I would have a lot of learning to make sound decisions.
The basement will be precast sections. Its up in a day and the cost is the same
Same with icf, the cost is with in 10% so a none issue
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My current plan is to build ICF. I do find it interesting that you are using precast concrete for the basement. Please feel free to expand on tht methodology if you have the time. We are going to put in a basement. 1/2 accessible from the "ground floor" that opens to a patio space below ground level (building on a bluff) with the back 1/2 accessed through a safe door behind some bookshelfs. I had thought that I would put ICF underground with concrete ceiling seprated by a couple of feet of earth to the ground floor. The place where I'm building is on a "point" sloping down on 3 sides so I can easily French drain the basement.
After a month or so of dozer work on the place I am going to take you up on the metal building guidance offer you made.
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There are 3 ways you can build a basement these days.
1 is form it up and pore it.
2 block/ rocks
3 precast sections.
They are simlar to a tilt up, but not pored on site then tilted. They are glued and welded in place. What you save is time on siye for the walls to cure. Which is about a month of time. I have done several over the years and would never do it any other way. You can go from hole in the ground to start framing in 3 weeks insteed of the 8 weeks it tipically takes. Most of which is the slab/ foots curing. Doing it with either block or forming. You have the same time on the footing/ slab curing. The process of constructuon( 1 day for precast, easily a week + for the other methods) 1 month of curing, then a week of water proofing. Precast you skip that and frame the deck the next day.
Any decent 3 or 4 man crew can have the foundation go in on monday and the framing of s simple single story house framed by friday. Where as with the other methods you still have 3 weeks of curing.
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Right now i am trying to determine rather i want to stick build it or icf( insulated concrete forms, think styrofoam cinder blocks you pore concrete into. See this link https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Insulating_concrete_form)
This may show my paranoia but wouldn't the ICF give you a bit of lead penetration protection? (Bullet) PLUS increased insulation? How about the electrical wiring? Is it the same as a stick-built?
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This may show my paranoia but wouldn't the ICF give you a bit of lead penetration protection? (Bullet) PLUS increased insulation? How about the electrical wiring? Is it the same as a stick-built?
Depends on the system, some have a solid wall of concrete, others are like cinder blocks made out of Styrofoam. Same with wiring, some require conduit added before the pore, others use furring strips on the inside for things like that.
Hopefully today i will actually have some time to sit down and do the pros and cons. I have been putting on the consultant hat as of late as per the contract when i sold the company.
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TAB, I just noticed.
You haven't changed your avatar in YEARS .
That used to be one of the high points of New Years . ;D
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TAB, I just noticed.
You haven't changed your avatar in YEARS .
That used to be one of the high points of New Years . ;D
I don't know,,, I kinda like the view he is giving us. ;^)
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TAB, I just noticed.
You haven't changed your avatar in YEARS .
That used to be one of the high points of New Years . ;D
I kind of started a large construction company and a non profit since you left. I have been a little bit busy. Getting ready to hop on a plane in the next hour.
You would think me not working i would have free time, but no. I get called in as a consultant several times a week.
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Well, you didn't retire so you could vegetate ;D
I think you were working on the non profit then and just doing residential work so it didn't get crazy. ;D
Guess that didn't go so well ? ;D
Better that way than the other. ;D
But the avatar pictures really haven't been the same since you got married . ;D
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I still did a bunch of residential, but i also started working on dod contracts as well as building lots of commercial buildings. I am still on the board for the non profit, but i no longer deal with the day to day stuff. I eneded up getting them to buy a building and they are 100% funded by that. Only support staff is payed. All of the management and proessionals are all 100% volunteer. I told them when i stepped down that the day they change that is the day i will resign from the board. Last couple of months have been pretty low for them, but last quater, the 2 shelters were full, they were servicing several dozen people remotely and was averaging 1 hs diploma or college degree a month( the charity helps runaways and victims of sexual abuse in honor of emily folk. At 14 she ran away and was gang raped, she contracted hiv from that attack. She died a few years back))
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TAB, I just noticed.
You haven't changed your avatar in YEARS .
That used to be one of the high points of New Years . ;D
Yep! I think this is a Kydex holster she's wearing. Something in leather mights spruce it up a little.... 8)
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Yep! I think this is a Kydex holster she's wearing. Something in leather mights spruce it up a little.... 8)
You like 'em in leather too, huh? :)
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So its mother’s day and I finally have some time to sit down and type this up.
Before we get to the pros and cons of icf vs stick built homes, there are a few assumptions I have about you, the location of the property (say 1-2 hours outside of a decent sized town) and that if extra man power is needed you are hiring pros and "extra cash" rates. I will only be talking about building the structure of the home, the pitfalls that can occur during construction and ownership of said home. There are dozens of icf companies out there; I cannot speak for every system so I will talk in generalities. I am so speaking of traditional stick building per the ubc/ibc guide line... think 2x 16" on center. Much of what is said her would also apply to a steel stud home, but that is a completely different subject. It should also be noted that there is 4 other construction methods that are commonly used. Those are Masonry, manufactured, log, and SIP (structural integrated panel, think ice cream sandwich with the cookie being ply and the ice cream being expanded foam) I will not be talking about the odd ball or super off grid stuff, just stuff that is right out of the code books. I am also assuming you have basic skills in the use of tools, can read blue prints and have some general construction knowledge. For construction I am also assuming you are having trusses brought in rather than rafter framing as that can get complicated very quickly even for a professional. These are not all inclusive, but will cover most things one would encounter.
That said now on to the pros
ICF:
Anyone can do it. The "blocks" weigh very little and they have easy to follow instructions (more on this later)
Great storm resistance (and can be somewhat bullet resistant as well depending on the system, fire you are still tearing it down)
Fast, even some one that has never built a home could easily build an average sized 4 or 6 corner house in a week. 1st one I build it 3 of us to go from slab to framed, roof sheeted, rough electrical and plumbing in 4 days. This was a 1350 sqft, that I built 6 of that were same (some mirror image) the last one it 2.5 days. Stick building it would have been that amount of time just to frame and sheet the roof.
Highly insulated (including air and noise)
Rot resistant (structure is not 100% as concreate can have acr aka concreate cancer and some critters love digging into the foam.)
Pros of stick built
Everyone knows what they are, so permit applications are way easier. Also when it comes to resale you will on average get paid more for a stick built then icf. So is insurance as once again, everyone knows what a stick built home is.
Easy to modify, both during construction and later on.
hard to screw up, you build the walls 16" on center, worst case is you take a sawzall to the nails and fix it.( when we get to cons of icf you will understand this, one.
Easy to get materials. You are one 2x4 short, you can run to any hardware store and get one.
Easy to run wire and plumbing.
easy to find pros to do tasks you cannot( see wire and plumbing above) trust me the last thing you want is to hire someone and when you 1st call them have to explain icf.
Cons
icf:
Hard to modify, it’s not just cutting some wood to make a change, it’s getting out a diamond saw and a jack hammer. (See screw ups further down)
Lower resale value. I honestly don’t know why but some people are afraid of anything slightly different, this generally means lower resale value. I have seen as much as 20% compared to other methods of construction.
Screw ups hurt! Not only are the diamonds coming out to modify things, but if you screw up on your attachment points it can mean big bucks. Same if you forget to add a void in the form to do things like bring water in. I had a customer a few years back that built one, but used the attachment schedule for wood siding, not stucco lathe. Well that was not found out until a stucco contractor was there to lath the house. Super long story short it cost him $28k for me to send 3 guys out for 9 days to drill and install epoxy anchors. 800 at $35 each. This was only a 1700 sqft home. Other systems can use wedge anchors, but powder actuated nailer are only really used for things like attaching interior walls and firing strips. Had another guy forget to install a section of PVC pipe in the wall so that power and water come be brought in... $2400 later and a core drilling contractor put 2 3" holes in his wall.
Electrical and plumbing are harder to run. Some systems use firing strips on the inside to run wires and plumbing) others you have to install conduit before you install. Both are harder to modify later. Once again the diamonds come out.
Finding pros that are willing to work on them is harder. Most guys either have no exp, or don't want to mess with them. The ones that do generally charge more as the work is more time consuming.
Doors and windows cost more. Due to the ticker walls, you will either have to buy special jambs (read that as bohic) or add jamb extensions. Which costs more and takes more time. (For me a jamb extension adds at least 20% to the install time)
Complex or using nonstandard dimensions is hard. all 90 degree corners with standard lengths ( generally some dimension of 12" or 18") is not bad, most companies also have provisions for a "ranch style" home with an angle bend in it. these are often limited to 30 or 45 degrees or require complex cuts and/or gluing of foam which is not a hard thing, but it is easy to screw up and if you have a seam pop during the pore, you are screwed( maybe even tear down screwed)
Limited on where can be built do to access to concreate. Yeah, you could do it with bags or a batch truck; you could also have a threesome with Nancy Pelosi, and Hillary Clinton. Good luck with that.
Stick built:
You will need at least 1 other person. As lifting walls by yourself (or equipment for that matter) is at best difficult. So count on 25-50/ hour for help per person.
Can rot/pests
Slower to build than icf
Less storm resistances
Natural product so you will have deal with straightness of walls at some point (think drywall shims)
Does nothing for insulation or air infiltration. (Read that as more time)
I did not talk about cost as for an owner builder the cost can fluctuate dramatically based on your location. Both in access to labor and materials. If all things being equal and you have to hire 2 guys for 2 weeks, the cost will be same. Don’t have to do that stick building will generally be cheaper.
So which would I choose? Well it depends. Rastus building a house in the tornado belt, 1st time builder. I would steer him towards icf. Take him again and put him in Utah, stick. (Sorry to pick on you)
For me currently, it all comes down to the floor plan I end up with. The time and labor saved with icf is a very big deal... but what do I know, I have only built 93 homes.
As always your mileage may vary.
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TAB, I just noticed.
You haven't changed your avatar in YEARS .
That used to be one of the high points of New Years . ;D
just for you ;D
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Noticed and appreciated ;D
Thanks ;D
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<snip>
So which would I choose? Well it depends. Rastus building a house in the tornado belt, 1st time builder. I would steer him towards icf. Take him again and put him in Utah, stick. (Sorry to pick on you)
<snip>
Nothing to be sorry for. I am heavily leaning towards ICF. Also, my father was a home builder early on and later contracted on petrochemical plants...I've helped build a couple of homes. I like the ICF....blowouts are killers though. And just like you said...angles and curves are an issue. I'm thinking Frank Lloyd Wright style so angles may not be an issue....there's going to be quite a bit of angst with the wife on this one.
I was actually thinking some concrete walls for the metal building that I'm putting up late summer or early fall. Have you ever included that in a metal building? In this area there have been two metal buildings blown down this year with gustnado's. So...I was wanting to beef up the building. The ground for the building foundation is getting stripped level and then built up this week. It's on a little of a slope and I don't want any differential settling.
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No, i have not, but when it comes to icf systems, look for one that has a solid pore rather than chambers. Less chance of having things find thr foam pockets. Also remember the mix you use in them is closer to groute than concrete, so adding things like fibers can help you a bunch when it comes to storm protectio. I would also look at some of thr newer steel trusses rather than wood. They can take a little more force before the blow off. Also dont do the security glass. You want your windows blow out so the pressure is equal inside and outside. There is a company in so call that makes a icf that is ~16" thick with a plastic web separating the insulation. The name escapes me right now, but the open nature of its design allows lots of room for reinforcement. It was orginally developed for dod. I will try and see if i can find it for you. It use to be sold thru white cap. I know they have a location not too far from little rock. They use to sell mainly tilt up supplys, that has changed since hd supply bought them out, but still worth checking thier catalog for it.
Sorry about forgetting the name, i suffer from crs
Edit, a shot gun house is 4 corner and tradtional/ functional
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Yes...please, get some contact info on those guys. DOD...probably going to be expensive but it's a one time cost. I have two homes in my development built with the Poly-Steel ICF system in the 1996-1998 time frame. At the time, they guaranteed the homes to 200 MPH winds and fiber is definitely going into the concrete!!!
Tilt up supplies....pre-cast concrete I'm guessing? That would be good thing if the place out of Little Rock did the ICF system you are speaking of and the pre-cast panels. That was a great tip on the basement to speed things up with pre-cast panels.
Two things I need to research further are 1) earthquake proofing and 2) having sufficient support in the basement to hold up 3-4' of dirt and 2 stories. The dirt is to shield radiation...the house will be less than 30 miles from a nuke plant and prevailing winds are in my directions during the summer. New Madrid, MO, is less than 200 miles from here too.
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I know about fire protection, and good drainage, but what are the options for wind protection ?
You can't plant trees big enough to act as a wind break, what about positioning the building at an angle to prevailing winds ?
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For precast walls in basement, my concern is always water. Depending on your geographic area and the water table, can you get good protection against ground water infiltration with precast walls?
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For precast walls in basement, my concern is always water. Depending on your geographic area and the water table, can you get good protection against ground water infiltration with precast walls?
Just like a tilt up, what you use to seal up the joints is key. Most precast walls use stronger concrete then is pored in a tipcial basement wall. They are also pored in ideal condtions. Inside, on vibrating tables and fresh mix. So while you generally have less thickness, you have better mud with less voids.
Wind is rarely an issue with a home. Its also not that hard to desing a structure for wind load.
A yard of compacted earth is 3000# a yard dry. Might want to look into how much concrete thickness you need, it might be cheaper. A 12" thick post tensioned slab is not that much and it would be easier to find an engineer to design for that. I want to say the icf system was about $30 a block. The were like 4'x1'x1.5' and they key med toegther unlike most that use either tape or adhesive. White cap did not do pre cast themselves but sold a lot of it . If i get some time i will dig thru my archives and see if i can find it. Sadly the home i built with it is over 10 years ago so the docs are gone from the tax files.
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I sent you a pm with what they currently sell, it looks damn close. If my old sales rep bobby was still working i know he would remember the order. Her retired adt 43 years in concrete supply sales.
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New toy coming next week.
Volvo 210
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(https://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e330/m58/31778-1960-volvo-210-station-wagon_zpsxhtnqcc5.jpg)
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(https://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e330/m58/31778-1960-volvo-210-station-wagon_zpsxhtnqcc5.jpg)
yep thats what i am diging the foundations with lol
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That's what you get when the marketing geniuses don't look back to see where they have used that model designation in the past. Heck, most of these engineers weren't even a gleam in their daddies' eyes when this model rolled off the line.
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That's why old guns are known by their year of introduction.
The companies didn't need to name them until they weren't the "New Model" any more.
Browning's service pistol never got a specific name. Some call it the 1914, others call it the Hafdasa, or Ballister.
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With volvo excavators they name them by the ~ wieght . The 210 is 20.5-22.5 tons based on options. ( yes i have owned a few of them before) the cost to have it shipped is just under 3/ mile
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With volvo excavators they name them by the ~ wieght . The 210 is 20.5-22.5 tons based on options. ( yes i have owned a few of them before) the cost to have it shipped is just under 3/ mile
Thank you COVID-19!!! Freight rates are half what they were six weeks ago. How far are they bringing it?
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Thank you COVID-19!!! Freight rates are half what they were six weeks ago. How far are they bringing it?
1300 miles. People are hungry thats for sure. The fact that they could pick it up in less than a week is also pretty telling. It is just oversized, not a wide load which cuts cost a bunch.
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Just ordered a 44x68 building today. The rather odd sizing is do to it being an order that fell thru, so they are just going to make some modifications to it and it wilm be slightly cheaper then the 40x60 i was planing on
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Extra square footage is never a bad plan.
When we built we grew the footprint twice: One time it expanded slightly, because we were designing from the inside out and needed space for a couple items; The second time it was a realization that by adding two feet in length and two feet in width eliminated a lot of waste in the framing and weathering in stages.
We were never sorry we expanded the size, and it was a benefit when we sold.
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Yes, but it does mean an extra truck of concrete and a bunch of rebar. It does mean the foundation will be about $2500 more in materials. Which for me is a none issue. If i was not doing the work myself that would be an extra 5k on too the foundation. An extra 5k early on in a project is huge. Changes orders are always happen and they can easily break the bank.
I am sitting down today to draw up some rough floor plans, for both stick and icf. Will post after i get them done. Funny thung my phone still rings 20 times+ a day
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I know you understand this TAB, and so do some of the others, but I state these things from experience for the benefit of those who have not been through it.
When you enter a project like this you always add 20% to the initial, and still plan for some overruns. As the Bible says, do not start the project if you cannot afford it in time, money, or other resources.
Also, there is never a time when it will be cheaper to do the extra or make it right than before the building project, or early into the project. Examples include full basement vs. partial or only crawl space.
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At least 50% is better. Unless your a single straight male, then you dont make changes. If you have a wife that has a hard time making up her mind 100% if you have a keep up with the jones wife, 800 or better fico score. ;D
My budget for the barn is 100k. I am on target for that right now, but i am doing most of it myself. If hiring it all out you could easily at 100k to the cost. I am only hiring out the concrete finishing( hiring a crew) and the frame erection as it takes a crane and is not something 1 person can do. I will be doing everything else. I will have a pro electrician do the final hook up as it is required and i have zero desire to pull a licsense.( i know i would work if i did that)
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Its here! All i need now is new teeth and the fuel truck to get here, both are coming tomorrow. Then its time to start digging.
I have a surveyor coming friday to set grade markers and the corners so i can start grading for the foundation.
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Alright Tab....we need to see the barn plans/layout you have.
I have yet to have learned anything about metal building specifications on the structures and sheet metal specs to make an apples to apples comparison between companies. There's a lot of guys hawking buildings out there who are really just installer/reps and not building manufacturers. But there are a couple of months remaining to make a decision since the foundation work needs to settle a few months. The dirt guy that is working for us should get to the foundation work next week after he finishes the work around the old cinder block building that's going to be a guest apartment/shop.
We flattened a slope for a patio/yard with 800+ yards of dirt. This is one of those mission creep things that adds to the cost (50%). I was going to be happy with 200 yards strategically placed but this work was inexpensive enough to keep on going once we started moving the fill....plus we wanted to expand the pond. So...for around $7,500 we got the fill and top soil plus a pond a just over 1/2 acre in surface area and 20' max depth. I think that is a reasonable price for what we got....whaddya' think Tab?
I have been perusing the internet and I've run up on an outfit called Morton Buildings. I really like their designs but I have not settled due to the ongoing research on specs and costs. I want to build something similar to what is on this link but expanded to around 50' wide by 70' long https://mortonbuildings.com/projects/roberts-storage-building (https://mortonbuildings.com/projects/roberts-storage-building) . We need room for the RV, boat, tractor and a car or two plus stuff from our current home.
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I only plans for the structure atm. Its nothing crazy 44x 68. 2 14' high roll ups 3 doors and 12 sky lights
What you need to know about steel buildings is the wind rating. You are in zone iv. Which means 250 mph wind load. Now this is not sustained wind load but a gust of 3 seconds. Most of your specs will be based off that. Any one that says your fine with a wind rating of iii. Walk. The preinsulated panels are not enough. The come between 2.5-4" at best it is r 4 per inch. With 4" it is r 16, but with out a radiant barrier( no the metal does not work like that, any one that says it does walk) it will still be an oven. There are ceramic based paints you can buy to do that. They are awesome, but bohic. Its about $30 a sqft for just the material. But you can spray it on a container and drop the inside temp 30-40 degrees.
I know i pm ed you my number, feel free to call if you have specific questions. I get dozens of solicitation phone calls a day( no bs its just after 10 am and i have 14 voice mails all are trying to sell me something, or invest in this or that) so make sure to leave me a message. Or bettet yet send me a text 1st with who you are so i can add it to contacts... so i will actually pick up.
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After getting pricing for liquid rock delivered, stick building it is. Now i can actually sit down and draw stuff up. Give me a week or so as for not working i sure seem to be working alot
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I am convinced that the ICF construction method is the best option today. First, you get minimal air leakage, which increases comfort and reduces heat loss compared to walls without an air barrier. Secondly, structural integrity for better resistance to the forces of nature compared to frame walls. And third, such houses are much more expensive than traditional frame houses because of the material's longevity. When I was buying property in Tulum (https://www.playarealestategroup.com/Tulum_Real_Estate_Listings/page_2515901.html), I looked for a house that owners built this way. I paid a little more than planned, but I got an eco-friendly and durable house.
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Which ICF product did you use? What did it end up costing per sq ft?
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Tab, is this the kind of stuff you were referring to?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/SUNSHIELD-5-Gal-Radiant-Barrier-for-Roofs-and-Exteriors-312/202509784 (https://www.homedepot.com/p/SUNSHIELD-5-Gal-Radiant-Barrier-for-Roofs-and-Exteriors-312/202509784)
Or was it an internal paint system?
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Hey Tab....??
Tab, is this the kind of stuff you were referring to?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/SUNSHIELD-5-Gal-Radiant-Barrier-for-Roofs-and-Exteriors-312/202509784 (https://www.homedepot.com/p/SUNSHIELD-5-Gal-Radiant-Barrier-for-Roofs-and-Exteriors-312/202509784)
Or was it an internal paint system?
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No,
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The plan is the basis of any action, especially if we are talking about a house that will stay and host you for decades. The plan of the house must be established by professionals, taking into account the wishes of the owners. A small mistake in the plan can ruin the stability of the whole house. When I built my house, I turned to professionals from the newcastle surveyors (https://www.sjonessurveying.co.uk/newcastle-surveyors/) team. I was very satisfied. My opinion was crucial, and I got what I wanted. Thanks to the team who listened to me and helped me along the way.
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I talked to an acquaintance who puts up metal buildings. He said to plan on $36/sq ft. for red iron (~5,000 sq.ft.) which includes erection and the slab. That won't include electrical, a few extra windows and doors, water and sewer, etc.
There's no permitting restraints to worry about here for electrical, water and sewer so I'll put that in myself with $15/hour unskilled help. I'm figuring that cost separately.
How does that $36/ft look to you right now?
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About right for a steel building.
I am building very nice homes in the 180s. Granted not using wood. Seriously, only the trusses and some sheer is wood.. Sold them for almost $100 more.
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Thanks. It's time to move on that building early summer.
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I'm somewhat derailed on my building plans because of NO time for that (why is that in retirement?). The good news is that steel prices are dropping and demand is approaching 2015 levels which resulted in 2016's low steel price. The bad news is twofold, one is people involved in steel here are going to have a hard time in the near future and with rampant Biflation (BIden inFLATION) the price of steel may not go down with inventory replacement.
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I wish I had time to work on mine. Just about have all the new houses weather tight. Hopefully I am done before elk season.
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You are doing the right thing, and you decided to immediately consult some specialists who can advise you on what is best to do for the construction of your house... For example, I can advise you to contact some landscaping company to make yourself a custom landscape in the courtyard or the entire plot. Believe me, this is something that will please your eye every day; it's so beautiful; I used to be skeptical about landscaping; I thought it was just a waste of money. However, my wife insisted on her own, and we did landscaping (https://jscustomlandscaping.com), which is fine... I hope my post will help you! Good luck to you!
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I have never understood why there are people who try to build or design something they have never done instead of just hiring specialists who will do everything for them. After all, it is obvious that you will not be able to find enough information on the Internet to build a barn the first time... But apparently, I think differently, and I have less free time for this because when I was building a house, I could not afford to use all my free time to look for something to build. Now that I am involved in real estate affiliate marketing and cooperate with https://www.lumina.com.ph/news-and-blogs/blogs/beginners-guide-to-real-estate-affiliate-marketing/ (https://www.lumina.com.ph/news-and-blogs/blogs/beginners-guide-to-real-estate-affiliate-marketing/), then I could afford it. Still, when I worked as a realtor, it was impossible.
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Well, I have at least completed repairs on the Oklahoma house. Now it needs a good cleaning and put on the market.
I'm thinking the metal building goes up late this fall. Sometime after that I should be zeroing in on final house plans.
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It is the hardest part when it comes to building a house. Firstly, it's nearly impossible to go through this process without stress. Secondly, you should keep in mind a lot of details when it comes to building and decorating it. When I was in this period, I followed many blogs like https://timthomas.co/signs-of-a-housing-market-crash/. I ensured I wouldn't go for trends that would disappear fast or make impractical decisions. I'm extremely happy I did that because almost 7 years after building my first house, I could sell it for a price three times bigger than the initial one.
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They say everything is for sale....
Well this was. Sold it for almost double what I had in it. Moved up to idaho