The Down Range Forum
Member Section => Handguns => Topic started by: garand4life on August 28, 2011, 03:16:33 PM
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So after many bouts with my Taurus PT1911 I have finally decided to quit trying to fix it's issues and just replace it. I am looking at 3 different makes and models in roughly the same price tier but can't seem to settle on one. It's now a debate between 3 and each has a draw back that I can tell. So I'm asking for input from y'all to help me make peace with a my decision. I want it mainly for carry without frills for those times I want to carry the bigger, heavier bullet in the subzero freeze that is coming as always here in Ohio.
1) Ruger SR1911 - the only problem I can see is complete and utter lack of them. I'm not interested in waiting 3 months for it to arrive at my dealer.
2) Para GI Expert - my only concern is the grip safety felt really flimsy. Is that normal for it to be super light to press? What is the track record on these?
3) Kimber Custom II - I've heard quality at Kimber has taken a nose dive south of crap, any evidence to support that?
And I'm also taking a hard look at the Remington 1911R1. Thoughts?
Does any one of these have somethinmore to offer than the others? I know the Ruger tops the list do to its design being more feature rich and modeling, I guess, e better Colt pattern with the series 70 setup. I do prefer to avoid the full length guide rod but it's not an absolute need.
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The Para GI Expert is a sleeper among 1911 Pistols,I don't think you could go wrong with one of these in your holster. The ones I have seen and handled were very nice out of the box, quite a few CAS shooters use them for wild bunch shoots,That says a lot there.
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Of those listed, I would recommend a Springfield Loaded or a S&W 1911, then the Ruger SR1911, then the Kimber Custom II. I think the SA and S&W are very good guns and can be found in the $800 - 850 range (at least on line - and don't be afraid to buy on line). The Ruger has been getting very good reviews but I haven't warmed up the fact that the plunger tube is part of the cast frame. If, by some weird happenstance, the tube gets damaged it can't be replaced. I've had a few Kimbers and while they have been good guns, they just didn't "speak to me", if you know what I mean. And the complaints about Kimbers seem to be elevated in the forums I read.
The Para GI and the Remington would be off of my list because of the lack of a beaver tail grip safety. Yeah, I know the GI safety has worked for years but once (hammer) bitten......
From GunBroker:
SA: http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=248724918 (http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=248724918)
S&W: http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=248797825 (http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=248797825)
Ruger: http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=248595179 (http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=248595179)
Kimber: http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=248733876 (http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=248733876)
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I'd put the Para and Remington back on the list, the Beavertail grip safety is easy to install , Midway and Brownell's both have drop in models and their not very expensive.
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Speaking from personal experience, I would stay away from Springfield Armory. The one I had came from the factory with a bent plunger tube, broken plunger, and bad extractor. After 3 trips back it still wasn't working reliably, so I sold it.
Of the ones listed I'd be shy about the Ruger. Like Ichiban, I'm not crazy about the plunger tube (see above). I've heard lots of bad things about Kimber's customer service (not recently, though), so that would give me pause. I've not heard anything bad about the Para GI Expert or the Remington R1, and the price is good on them. If I was in the market for a 1911, I'd probably be looking at one of those.
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I'd put the Para and Remington back on the list, the Beavertail grip safety is easy to install , Midway and Brownell's both have drop in models and their not very expensive.
I think you'd have to change (or bob) the hammer on the Remington as well. The Para has the commander style hammer so it should work.
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Ok, so I just said screw it and hit on on Gunbroker...
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=248717958
I did that before reading BACs SA warning, but I haven't seen one with the exact setup I wanted but this comes dang close and has night sights which I prefer when available. I figure I'll do the 60 layaway and call it even... I love this gun though... Honestly there is something to be said for a 1911 with MODEL 1911-A1 Cal. 45ACP being prominently displayed on the side.
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Just one more thing left to do - go to Brownell's (or Midway) and order a GI (or full length) guide rod and plug. You are definitely going to want to change out that two-piece guide rod. That has been my one complaint with SA is that they like to use that stupid two-piece guide rod.
Otherwise, congratulations! You are getting a fine 1911 that will give you years of fun and service.
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Just one more thing left to do - go to Brownell's (or Midway) and order a GI (or full length) guide rod and plug. You are definitely going to want to change out that two-piece guide rod. That has been my one complaint with SA is that they like to use that stupid two-piece guide rod.
Otherwise, congratulations! You are getting a fine 1911 that will give you years of fun and service.
I am thinking GI style guide rod... and I would have ordered the one you linked me to but I really don't like stainless. Thanks brother!
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I have 3 paras and no problems ever. I carry a para 745 single stack every day and have carried it for 4 years without a hitch. Chip McCormick pro mags and full 230 grain JHP. It's heavy but gives me piece of mind.
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My Springfield Fully loaded was a disaster. Sent to Jim Garthwaite and now the only thing from the origional is the frame.
The Kimber Ultra CDP II has been perfect.
Your milage may vary.
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I've been looking at carry loads for the 1911 and to help avoid wasting money needlessly, does anyone have some preferences for carry ammo? I'm thinking tried and true GoldDot +P right now but I know there are a lot of good choices.
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Federal Hydrashok has always worked for me as far as accuracy and reliability of feeding.
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I've been looking at carry loads for the 1911 and to help avoid wasting money needlessly, does anyone have some preferences for carry ammo? I'm thinking tried and true GoldDot +P right now but I know there are a lot of good choices.
My carry load for the 1911s is plain jane Win White Box 230gr JHP.
For the SIG220 I use GoldDot 230. (non +P)
The guns with these loads put them right on top of the other with boring regularity. Switch them and the groups open up noticeably, so I don't.
I have several boxes of Cor-Bon DPX (also non +P) that I haven't tested yet.....got to wait till it gets below 110+.
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FWIW, my everyday carry gun is a Para GI Expert, and I couldn't be happier with it!! Not to mention that it cost me $599 NIB.
I compared various 1911's before settling on the Para, all of which (with the exception of the Springfield) were significantly more expensive. I didn't feel like I was "settling" in selecting the Para after firing some of the others. It's only had about 3 or 4 thousand rounds through it (I've had it for a year and a half, and who the hell can afford to chew through more .45acp than that in that time frame?) and it has performed flawlessly. I have yet to find any kind of ammo that it won't eat, it goes bang EVERY time I press the trigger, and it's accuracy is far superior to mine. What more can you ask for?
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So I brought the new Springfield home today. And the first time I try to disassemble it I find that , since a barrel bushing wrench isn't included I can't get the bushing out of the slide! I managed to get the slide off the frame but even getting it put back together was a 3 hour affair. Fortunately no damage to the gun but seriously!!!??? Is this normal for SA/Kimber and the like? My Taurus never had this problem, either of them.
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Some can be snug but I've never had a bushing that tight. Both of my Nat. Match guns could be undone with fingers.
'Course, I'm strong like bull. ;) :P ;)
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So I brought the new Springfield home today. And the first time I try to disassemble it I find that , since a barrel bushing wrench isn't included I can't get the bushing out of the slide! I managed to get the slide off the frame but even getting it put back together was a 3 hour affair. Fortunately no damage to the gun but seriously!!!??? Is this normal for SA/Kimber and the like? My Taurus never had this problem, either of them.
Did you turn the barrel bushing in the correct direction?
It will come apart like this: (language alert)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KGJKv4NaHaU&feature=relmfu
I got my monthly dose of Philly watching this. ;D
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Did you turn the barrel bushing in the correct direction?
It will come apart like this: (language alert)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KGJKv4NaHaU&feature=relmfu
I got my monthly dose of Philly watching this. ;D
Yes I turned it the correct direction. The bushing is just that tight in the slide. We had to take a mallet to knock it out. No damage, well oiled just that tight.
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Yes I turned it the correct direction. The bushing is just that tight in the slide. We had to take a mallet to knock it out. No damage, well oiled just that tight.
Not good! I guess they used a mallet to put it in.
Jim told me all the drilled holes in my Springfield were oval and not round. He trued them up and now the slide in and out as I expected. I had him replace the screw-in guide rod. It would back out after a few rounds.
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I've been shooting 1911s since 1980, my own and those issued by Uncle Sam (USAF match pistols). My own have been from box stock to custom jobs from Clark and Pachmayr. Have shot the new wonder 1911s from Wilson, LB, etc. Have tried the Kimber Warrior and SWAT guns, the SA "Bureau" model too. All great guns.
But hey, they are 1911s, and no matter how much you pay, there may be problems. I have a SA Mil-Spec that has performed perfectly for thousands of rounds w the std 7 round mags from SA and Metalform. I have had problem children that cost 3 times as much and choked w the best magazines du jour.
Get what you like, or flip a coin and like what you get...
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It doesn't matter what you get, they are adaptable to nearly any taste.
First thing I would do is shitcan that full length guide rod.
It's added aggravation for no practical gain.
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It doesn't matter what you get, they are adaptable to nearly any taste.
First thing I would do is shitcan that full length guide rod.
It's added aggravation for no practical gain.
It's worse than a FLGR, it's a two-piece GR. At least with a FLGR you don't have to have tools to field strip. With the two-piece, you do. I'm kind of neutral on the FLGR, but I can't stand a two-piece. Well, not since one unscrewed itself while I was shooting.
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It doesn't matter what you get, they are adaptable to nearly any taste.
First thing I would do is shitcan that full length guide rod.
It's added aggravation for no practical gain.
Yep.........IMHO.
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I had a two-piece guide rod that I took a hacksaw to. After some careful filing it's a standard length guide rod and works great.
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I had a two-piece guide rod that I took a hacksaw to. After some careful filing it's a standard length guide rod and works great.
I did the same with a one-piece solid SS rod......... I bought several from a guy that was going out of business for $10 each. They were all Gov't length one-piece FLGRs. I cut one down to Commander length and didn't care for it so I got to thinking, why not just cut it down to regular length.
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If I wanted to order a GI style guide rod and new barrel bushing is it a simple enough process for those to be just a drop in change or would the bushing have to be fitted to retain function and accuracy? Is there any preference to who to go with between Wilson and C&S?
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If I wanted to order a GI style guide rod and new barrel bushing is it a simple enough process for those to be just a drop in change or would the bushing have to be fitted to retain function and accuracy? Is there any preference to who to go with between Wilson and C&S?
Shouldn't need a new bushing.......just the spring guide and plug.
Cylinder & Slide and Wilson Combat are both top-quality enterprises so that one is a toss-up, IMHO, FWIW.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=41714/Product/RECOIL_SPRING_GUIDES_for_1911_AUTO
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1357/Product/RECOIL_SPRING_PLUGS_for_1911_AUTO
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Yep, just a guide rod and spring plug. I've gotten mine through Midway in the past.
Plug: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=540296 (http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=540296)
Guide rod: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=272206 (http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=272206)
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Ok. Say I wanted to try to correct the issue I'm encountering where the bushing is so tight I can't remove it by hand even with the aid of the barrel bushing wrench. I can get it turned correctly to where it should come out but it won't. At least not with out taking a small rubber mallet and giving it some persuasion.
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First thing I'd do is lube it and shoot it for function. If the tightness does not impede function, it will loosen up over time.
Also, if you put a standard spring guide and plug in it, try pulling the slide back about 3/4" and then turning the bushing (after you have taken the plug and spring out).
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First thing I'd do is lube it and shoot it for function. If the tightness does not impede function, it will loosen up over time.
Also, if you put a standard spring guide and plug in it, try pulling the slide back about 3/4" and then turning the bushing (after you have taken the plug and spring out).
Ahh......you lost me.
Don't you have to turn the bushing and THEN take the plug out?
Granted, pulling the slide back to get the barrel off the tightest part of the bushing should make it easier but it loads the spring also.
Lube it and shoot it. Get it good and hot and see if the bushing binds up. If it does it's a warranty fix - unless you don't want to ship it out and prefer the local gunsmith.
On edit:
OK, I'm caught up here....color me slow....I missed the part that the bushing was hanging up in the slide and not during initial takedown...my bad.
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Ok. Say I wanted to try to correct the issue I'm encountering where the bushing is so tight I can't remove it by hand even with the aid of the barrel bushing wrench. I can get it turned correctly to where it should come out but it won't. At least not with out taking a small rubber mallet and giving it some persuasion.
I'm a little confused about just what you are whacking here. Are you hitting the bottom of the bushing (that restrains the spring plug) as it is turned sideways? Can you get the bushing in & out okay without the barrel in place? I'm wondering if the bushing is binding with the slide or with the barrel.
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I got the bushing to turn so I could remove the plug. I can't get the bushing out of the slide but the barrel moves smoothly through the bushing. It's between the slide and bushing. I was told be SA customer service that this can happen until it's been fired a bit. So, I will shoot it and then if it still does this I will send it in.
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After you removed the Plug did you turn the bushing in the opposite direction before trying to remove it?
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After you removed the Plug did you turn the bushing in the opposite direction before trying to remove it?
Yes and I can see the lug on the bushing centered in the middle of the slide so it should just come out.
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Ok, Try using the barrel to pull the bushing out, fold the link down and slide the barrel against the bushing ,Kind of like a slap hammer,It should come out.
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Ok, Try using the barrel to pull the bushing out, fold the link down and slide the barrel against the bushing ,Kind of like a slap hammer,It should come out.
That worked but it took a good light slap with a rubber mallet. Should it be that hard or will it loosen up like SA suggested?
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yes it will get looser with use, You want a tight fit for best accuracy,but it shouldn't be that tight
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That's what I thought when I tried to remove it. On the up side my neighbor, who has a SA GI model gave me his old guide rod so now my SA looks just like I want it with no FLGR sticking out. Looks sweet!!!!
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-XLOAqwDrt4E/Tl2ZMGCal8I/AAAAAAAAA2A/gYkZJUIURE4/s640/photo-1.JPG)
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Looks just like the one I had. :o
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I just heard your conversation with Tom Gresham as I listened to the Gun Talk podcast.
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I figured why not ask someone who's seen the market first hand.
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I figured why not ask someone who's seen the market first hand.
Of course his default answer is to go to the Ruger. ;D
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And the Springfield. Of course both of those are sponsors of his radio and tv shows.
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And the Springfield. Of course both of those are sponsors of his radio and tv shows.
Of course. It would be like Jim Scoutten not recommending a Smith & Wesson.
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After seeing the photo and realizing it is a parkerized gun, there could be some crystals or build-up in the area that will smooth out over time and take-down. Parkerizing can be like emery cloth sometimes.
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Took her out and fed her 100 rounds of FMJ and a small amount of GoldDot and Federal HST. Ran great. Had 2 failures to chamber but I figure new gun and new MecGar mags. So I'd say very good gun so far and the bushing is loosening up.
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Hoping for a SR1911 at the end of the year. ;D
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So after many bouts with my Taurus PT1911 I have finally decided to quit trying to fix it's issues and just replace it. I am looking at 3 different makes and models in roughly the same price tier but can't seem to settle on one. It's now a debate between 3 and each has a draw back that I can tell. So I'm asking for input from y'all to help me make peace with a my decision. I want it mainly for carry without frills for those times I want to carry the bigger, heavier bullet in the subzero freeze that is coming as always here in Ohio.
1) Ruger SR1911 - the only problem I can see is complete and utter lack of them. I'm not interested in waiting 3 months for it to arrive at my dealer.
2) Para GI Expert - my only concern is the grip safety felt really flimsy. Is that normal for it to be super light to press? What is the track record on these?
3) Kimber Custom II - I've heard quality at Kimber has taken a nose dive south of crap, any evidence to support that?
And I'm also taking a hard look at the Remington 1911R1. Thoughts?
Does any one of these have somethinmore to offer than the others? I know the Ruger tops the list do to its design being more feature rich and modeling, I guess, e better Colt pattern with the series 70 setup. I do prefer to avoid the full length guide rod but it's not an absolute need.
Yo Garand d4life I'm looking to get pt1911 what kind of troubles did you have? also if I were you since you decided to get rid of your Taurus I'd go with the Remington R1. the Ruger is SS but the R1 is the better gun. I checked with a gunsmith buddy of mine who said he cannot build a gun for me for what I'd pay for the Taurus PT1911
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Remington R-1's are also available in stainless.
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Speaking from personal experience, I would stay away from Springfield Armory. The one I had came from the factory with a bent plunger tube, broken plunger, and bad extractor. After 3 trips back it still wasn't working reliably, so I sold it.
Of the ones listed I'd be shy about the Ruger. Like Ichiban, I'm not crazy about the plunger tube (see above). I've heard lots of bad things about Kimber's customer service (not recently, though), so that would give me pause. I've not heard anything bad about the Para GI Expert or the Remington R1, and the price is good on them. If I was in the market for a 1911, I'd probably be looking at one of those.
Personally, I love my Springfield armory 1911a1 gi or government. It was almost 20 or 30 years old i think, stock parts, but well taken care of by a vet marine, I bought it for 450 bucks and spent an extra 150 to 200 replacing out all the springs, main parts, sig barrel, all wilson combat for the internals, full length guide rod. And after talking to many people and gunsmiths, decided to take out the shok buffs as almost everybody told me the parts can handle the wear and tear for thousands of rounds as long as you pay attention. I asked people if buying a 1911 for about 500 dollars was a mistake, but when everybody took a look at it told me it was a fantastic deal. Sorry your 1911 was all messed up, but that's why I don't purchase any firearm without handling it directly first. Also, instead of 3 to 4 attempts to get the company to fix something, you had the option to just purchase a wilson combat or other plunger tube setup with springs and plungers, it shouldn't cost more than like 20 or 30 dollars. I just wonder how in the world that gun left the factory with that obvious of a defect. If they showed you pictures of one without the damage I'd call and cuss at them. Anyways, all opinions here, but I don't think it matters what 1911 you get because they are all made essentially the same. Taurus is the only one I would be wary of as their 'zero tolerance ' policy is super questionable. I have a 357 Taurus 605 and the entire cylinder fell out unscrewed from the center post as I was decocking the hammer at home. Whatever internal safety systems they have did nothing, I had my thumb on the hammer, pushing down a good bit, but as I pulled the trigger to drop the hammer is when the cylinder fell out of battery, and I don't know how or why, but as the cylinder was just out of battery, the hammer was snapped back down in milliseconds with at least a 26 or 28 pound DA spring. The hammer fell down and either the cylinder falling out disabled the block safeties or transfer bars or the cylinder was just in a perfect position for the rimfire casings to get hit by the striker. I love the gun, but they should have mentioned that the cylinder can unscrew if you only turn it one way alot and to check on it instead if boasting about tolerances and craftsmanship.
I have a Springfield armory with wilson combat parts essentially, a para expert carry, remington r1 in 10mm. I would suggest taking a look at the sig 1911s before a kimber imo, I'm not a huge fan of some their really flashy stuff and costs related to them. A sig 1911 will be solid, their customer service is great, lifetime warranty on most things, and super fast turnaround on any repairs or armory work needed. A 1k dollar kimber would be baseline or just above, but most sig 1911s are just around the 1k to 1.4k range and there's the sig name and quality. Personally since I have 1911s, I would say get a cheaper one, you can always upgrade or mod parts, then focus on a p220 or p227. They are essentially modern 1911s which I've heard like the p226 will shoot no matter what you do to it
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Welcome to the forum!
Nice pickup on an older topic. I agree with your bottom line....buy a cheap 1911 (probably applicable to the AR15 too, eh?) and then buy new, good quality parts. Especially when I looked at the Sig 220 pricing...and the 227 is nearly unobtainable.
I'm not familiar with the 220...I'm supposing you were comparing other 45 ACP's that are all metal like the 1911's. I'll have to pick one up next time I see one and compare it to the CZ 97B which I absolutely love. It looks like the Sig is slimmer and probably lighter but might snag a bit more.
Regardless, welcome to the forum.
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Welcome to the forum!
I'm not familiar with the 220...I'm supposing you were comparing other 45 ACP's that are all metal like the 1911's. I'll have to pick one up next time I see one and compare it to the CZ 97B which I absolutely love. It looks like the Sig is slimmer and probably lighter but might snag a bit more.
Regardless, welcome to the forum.
Welcome to the forum as well.
I own a Sig 220 and a variant I have not seen often. It is a .45 Sig 220 SINGLE ACTION. I love them both but prefer the single action. It looks like the normal 220 until you see the frame-mounted safety in the same location that it would be on a 1911. Have any of you seen the single-action model I am talking about?
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Not that I can recall. Post a pic of that baby..
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I'm curious why so few 1911 models have rails on the dust cover? Mainly I want it to mount a Mantis X, but if lasers/lights are so popular, is it a 1911 mindset not to use them?
My 1970 MkIV (purchased 1971) is still kicking though the round count is probably less than 10k.
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https://www.recovertactical.com/product/cc3p-grip-and-rail-system-for-the-1911/
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I'm curious why so few 1911 models have rails on the dust cover? Mainly I want it to mount a Mantis X, but if lasers/lights are so popular, is it a 1911 mindset not to use them?
My 1970 MkIV (purchased 1971) is still kicking though the round count is probably less than 10k.
Cuz people who buy antique guns generally prefer them in original condition.
Not with later technology klugded on.
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Cuz people who buy antique guns generally prefer them in original condition.
Not with later technology klugded on.
Are you a Glockaholic? I, myself, am a certified boomer. I still love and carry my 1911, although it is a 10mm.
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I dislike shooting Glocks. I own one only to shoot in GSSF matches.
I'm more of a revolverholic. The original point and shoot device. ;)
There are a few 1911s with rails, but I'd think, at least wish, the demand was higher and hence the selection wider.
What I want the rail for is the MantisX training device and for the motion sensor trigger for my chronograph.
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I dislike shooting Glocks. I own one only to shoot in GSSF matches.
I'm more of a revolverholic. The original point and shoot device. ;)
I was trying to get a rise out of Tom. I used to have a tee-shirt that read "Smith & Wesson. The original point and click interface". I loved that shirt. Wore the damn think out.
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I own a 1911 or 17.... I have a few with rails. I do not like the balance of them with any thing attached to the rail. I always shoot low with them.
So for me personally, I see no reason to have one.
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Not a fan of hangin stuff on a pistol.
As a side note;
I talked quite a few guys out of 1911’s last spring. Simply not a good platform for a new shooter in my opinion. We had a LOT of new shooters that though they had the right to buy a handgun, probably shouldn’t have! Some scary folks were buying guns with their shiny new licenses...
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The reason for no rail on a 1911 is that 1911 owners aren't afraid of the dark. ;D ;D ;D ;D
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25 years shooting USPSA with a 1911 in .45, and estimated 250,000 rounds, bunch of stuff broke, and typically during a major match... switched to the Glock platform after a fitted link broke at Ft Benning 3 gun in 2005... other than a self induced malfunction when I hit a prop with the extended magazine floor plate, never a problem... though since the Area 6 multigun match in 2016, I've been shooting an AR9 for PCC, and .22 rimfire for Steel Challenge...
I carry a G43x and most of my practice is with a G44 (.22lr)
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Are you a Glockaholic? I, myself, am a certified boomer. I still love and carry my 1911, although it is a 10mm.
1911/ Glock, the only difference is 80 years of development.
Some people like Model T's, some like Mustangs . ;D
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The reason for no rail on a 1911 is that 1911 owners aren't afraid of the dark. ;D ;D ;D ;D
:) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :)
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1911/ Glock, the only difference is 80 years of development.
Some people like Model T's, some like Mustangs . ;D
I guess I am the Model-T guy!!
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The reason for no rail on a 1911 is that 1911 owners aren't afraid of the dark. ;D ;D ;D ;D
He bits it high, he hits it deep, itsout of here!
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The reason for no rail on a 1911 is that 1911 owners aren't afraid of the dark. ;D ;D ;D ;D
Great line.....I'm going to steal it for my own nefarious purposes.
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https://www.recovertactical.com/product/cc3p-grip-and-rail-system-for-the-1911/
I couldn't remember who made that. I've also seen a section of Picatinny rail for sale before that was machined to fit the dust cover. It could be attached by drilling and tapping a pair of holes to screw it on, or it could just be glued on with epoxy. If you don't mind refinishing your frame I don't see why it couldn't be silver soldered on too, but I wouldn't try it myself. I'd leave that to someone with a clue a pro.
Also, welcome to the best little gun forum on the internet, Dklee4141.
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1911/ Glock, the only difference is 80 years of development.
Some people like Model T's, some like Mustangs . ;D
When talking Glock vs. 1911, the 80 years is more materials for manufacture and small tweaks than the major differences we see in technology in 80 years of autos.
People, Pincus, condemn 1911's due to failure rates. I have run 100k rounds (documented) through my S&W 1911. The only competition fails came at a steel competition at Mesa, AZ on a very dry and dusty range. It was my fault! I prepped the gun, went to the local indoor range and ran 10 rounds through it (2 shots, mag change, 2 shots, mag change, ...), boxed it, and headed to the airport. I ran just over 400 rounds through it on day one, and that night I gave it a light cleaning (stripped down, wiped down, and added a little lube). The next day I had issues several times, until I tore it down and cleaned the best I could after the fifth stage (first chance I had enough time to do it, due to shooting order). First issue was using my northern lube that was more viscus and held dust, and not doing a detailed cleaning between first and second day to get all the sand out of its ass.
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The reason for no rail on a 1911 is that 1911 owners aren't afraid of the dark.
The reason for wanting a rail has to do with using the Mantis trigger analysis module. I don't like lights and lasers for other reasons.
Not picking on 1911s, BUT, (here it comes). Thursday night's indoor USPSA match we had 3 1911 shooters on our squad. All three had problems with their guns. These weren't spring chickens either. Crusty ole 1911 guys. You'd think they'd have worked out the kinks by now. One was definitely ammo problems. We think he seated his last batch to long. When he "open and show clear" the brass came out with a shower of powder and the bullet was stuck in the throat of the barrel. NOT THE GUNS FAULT I know.
But every 1911 on the line sounded, I don't know, clunky, rattle-ry, when they loaded the first round. I couldn't help but think, the CZs and PT92s and the striker fired guns just sound so much more, sturdy, solid-ly when the loaded up.
Don't fuss at me. I have an original 1970 Colt MKIV. It shoots well and I've shot it in competition. Just like my revolvers more. Does that make me old, old, crusty-crusty school?
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The reason for wanting a rail has to do with using the Mantis trigger analysis module. I don't like lights and lasers for other reasons.
Not picking on 1911s, BUT, (here it comes). Thursday night's indoor USPSA match we had 3 1911 shooters on our squad. All three had problems with their guns. These weren't spring chickens either. Crusty ole 1911 guys. You'd think they'd have worked out the kinks by now. One was definitely ammo problems. We think he seated his last batch to long. When he "open and show clear" the brass came out with a shower of powder and the bullet was stuck in the throat of the barrel. NOT THE GUNS FAULT I know.
But every 1911 on the line sounded, I don't know, clunky, rattle-ry, when they loaded the first round. I couldn't help but think, the CZs and PT92s and the striker fired guns just sound so much more, sturdy, solid-ly when the loaded up.
Don't fuss at me. I have an original 1970 Colt MKIV. It shoots well and I've shot it in competition. Just like my revolvers more. Does that make me old, old, crusty-crusty school?
In a word, YES. ;D
But fear not....misery loves company and MOST of the rest of us are already there too or rapidly approaching. ;D
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Alf,
I have polymer and steel pistols. I listen to them operate as I maintain them, and as I manipulate them. I think some of what you talk about is the difference in materials. I believe that the polymers encasing the rails on "modern" pistols tends to muffle some of the rattle we become accustomed to in old school pistols.
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Yes, Mike, the polymers do so. But the 92s and the CZ are all metal and they just have a, I don't know how to say it, a more solid sound when the lock up than the 1911s. Just a passing feeling I had this week. Could have been it was only my 3rd match with my Sig X5 and I was overly conscience of how it looked and sounded, and shot, compared to the other guns. I'm such a socialite.
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Yes, Mike, the polymers do so. But the 92s and the CZ are all metal and they just have a, I don't know how to say it, a more solid sound when the lock up than the 1911s. Just a passing feeling I had this week. Could have been it was only my 3rd match with my Sig X5 and I was overly conscience of how it looked and sounded, and shot, compared to the other guns. I'm such a socialite.
How do you like the X5 so far? I’m weeks away from being eligible for employee discounts.
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Without the mag-well it qualifies for IDPA SSP division and for USPSA Produvtion. Its weight and size design to be the most without exceeding limits. It's hefty to help with recoil recovery and it's smooth operating with a great trigger. I love it. I've got about 1,000 rounds through it and used it in 3 indoor matches so far.
My plans are to keep using it through March then go back to revolver for the Spring and Summer. USPSA Nationals are in May and I stand a better chance with revolver. After the IRC in September I'll go back to the X5.