The Down Range Forum
Member Section => Tactical Rifle & Carbine => Topic started by: Badgersmilk on October 28, 2009, 01:48:17 PM
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All that's left now is to see how bad I messed up the fit of everything...
What WAS this (M77).
(http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww40/BigCheeseStick/P1000876.jpg?t=1256754891)
Is now this...
(http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww40/BigCheeseStick/P1010338.jpg?t=1256754957)
(http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww40/BigCheeseStick/P1010337.jpg?t=1256755596)
I never have been a fan of wood on machines (rifles). In steps Rustoleum truck bed liner. It sprayed on SUPER thin even with 4 coats, and being highly textured, it's VERY close to the thickness of one sheet of notebook paper. But at the same time, it's SUPER tough! I know this because I can't get it off my hands or finger nails without using acetone. Scratching at it is a compete waste of time.
The idea was to seal the laminate against ANY possible moisture issues. Improve the durrability of the rifle. And I admit it... Looks!
Laminate stocks do look good. But it's just not what I was after in this case.
I've got a FEW surplus rifles that may soon be getting this treatment as well.
What I'm nervous about with this rifle is that your looking at an epoxy bedded, full floating barrel stock! It's going to require some cleaning up inside, and will surely be a SNUG fit! We'll see. :-\
(I didn't take out the sling stud's because their epoxied into the wood.)
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I've wondered about that stuff as a stock coating also....for the non-slip advantages.
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I've wondered about that stuff as a stock coating also....for the non-slip advantages.
Exactly. I may have really F'd up a very expensive, good shooting rifle here (there are A LOT of mod.'s in it!)...
I can probably think of a dozen benefits of doing this (IF it turns out right!), and I figured others have probably weighed the benefits of it as well, so I finally figured. "What the heck!" :-\
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You can see how thin it goes on (model number stamping), and the texture much better here. I love it so far!
(http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww40/BigCheeseStick/P1010342.jpg?t=1256757366)
(http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww40/BigCheeseStick/P1010343.jpg?t=1256757409)
The "goo" at the bottom of the first pic is the bedding material, not the Rustoleum.
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That texture looks great.
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WOOO HOOO!!!
Everything fell right back into place perfectly! Dollar bill still passes under the barrel, bedding felt a little more snug, still fits perfect and super ridgid. Gonna let it cure for 24 hours before I do anything else with it, but I'm pee'n my pants happy so far! ;D ;D ;D
(http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww40/BigCheeseStick/P1010344.jpg?t=1256768034)
(http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww40/BigCheeseStick/P1010345.jpg?t=1256768092)
(http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww40/BigCheeseStick/P1010346.jpg?t=1256768156)
(http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww40/BigCheeseStick/P1010348.jpg?t=1256771265)
The texture is "grippy", too ridgid to call "rubbery"... Kinda abrasive & "gritty" feeling. NO WAY is it going to slip in your hands. Even wet.
I'll test it's durrability a little tommarow and let you guys know (the overspray still won't scratch off my nails though :-\).
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Looks a lot better than the crappy composite stocks Ruger uses.
Let us know how it reacts with heat and or humidity. Does the wood still swell and contract according to the weather, or did this treatment stabilize it.
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My hope's are heat is going to have VERY little effect on the finish. It's intended to be a pick-up truck bed liner, and it's a Rustoleum product (I've had good experience with them), so I don't think weather will effect the finish at all. As far as temperature effecting the rifle, it's still a laminate stock at heart, and reputed to be pretty stable. I just wanted something that "gripped" better, sealed the wood against moisture, and would take a beating without showing it. Mission accomplished. ;)
I believe the stock on my Ruger .44 carbine will be getting this coating soon. But my Mosin Nagant 91/30 may be next in line (tommarow maybe ;)).
The M77 stock is hardening up really well! I've been handling (playing with) it quite a bit. Feel's great! VERY good grip!
I'd recommend this stuff to anybody.
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I can't believe you turned that nice hunting rifle into an evil assault sniper rifle. You bastard. ;) ;D
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I can't believe you turned that nice hunting rifle into an evil assault sniper rifle. You bastard. ;) ;D
Don't forget anything with any kind of optic you have to add. "Deadly accurate" ;)
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I can't believe you turned that nice hunting rifle into an evil assault sniper rifle. You bastard. ;) ;D
Don't forget anything with any kind of optic you have to add. "Deadly accurate" ;)
Don't forget it's BLACK.....can't forget that part of the equation. :P
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My hope's are heat is going to have VERY little effect on the finish. It's intended to be a pick-up truck bed liner, and it's a Rustoleum product (I've had good experience with them), so I don't think weather will effect the finish at all. As far as temperature effecting the rifle, it's still a laminate stock at heart, and reputed to be pretty stable. I just wanted something that "gripped" better, sealed the wood against moisture, and would take a beating without showing it. Mission accomplished. ;)
I believe the stock on my Ruger .44 carbine will be getting this coating soon. But my Mosin Nagant 91/30 may be next in line (tommarow maybe ;)).
The M77 stock is hardening up really well! I've been handling (playing with) it quite a bit. Feel's great! VERY good grip!
I'd recommend this stuff to anybody.
What I meant is how will the stock itself act, I had not thought of the heat of the barrel effecting the finish.
The main benefit of Composite stocks is that they are environmentally "dead" they don't swell in heat or humidity or contract in cold. Will this seal the wood to achieve the same result ?
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What I meant is how will the stock itself act, I had not thought of the heat of the barrel effecting the finish.
The main benefit of Composite stocks is that they are environmentally "dead" they don't swell in heat or humidity or contract in cold. Will this seal the wood to achieve the same result ?
Generally, you don't have that problem with laminate stocks unless it's in extreme weather circumstances.
It shouldn't be a problem....but only time will tell.
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Didn't know that Pegleg .
I forgot that BM lives in SC so doesn't get the extremes we do up here any way.
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Didn't know that Pegleg .
Basically, laminate stocks are thin layers of wood glued with the grain in opposing patterns (like plywood) so that it resists the effects of temperature and humidity by opposing forces....they act against each other to remain very static for the most part.........or something like that.
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I know a 40 degree temperature change will make measurable changes in any rifles zero at range (powder burn rates for one thing). I'm not expecting the truck bed liner will make any measurable change at all on this rifle's accuracy, no matter the climate. May be wrong. What change there may be, I would be even more surprised if it were for the worse.
My biggest concern now is how will this stuff react to the gun cleaners I use!?! Supposed to be "chemical, & fuel resisant"... I'll find out tommarow.
I already looked over my 91/30, and little Ruger .44. Can't bring myself to do it to them. It'd just be wrong.
But I've still got half a can left! :-\
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Try using your gun cleaning stuff to get it off your hands. ;D
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Pulled the action back out this morning and rubbed copper solvent, Hopps No. 9, G96 Gun Treatment, and even WD40 in there. Let them soak for a few seconds each. Nothing. They all pooled on the survace and just layed there (didn't soak in). SWEET!
Usually all I ever use is copper solvent, and the G96.
Before I sprayed on the bed liner material, all I did for prep. was to wipe down the stock with Mineral Spirits. If you have a stock with scratches, or dents, you'd better fill them and sand them VERY smooth before using this stuff, or they will show through (see the picture showing the model number stamping). Hold the spray can back from the stock further than you would paint. It adds to the texture, and keeps you from overspraying.
I think this stuff would work good even on some composite stocks, just to add texture, and improve looks a bit.
It's good stuff! Try it out and post some pic.'s!
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It would probably bond even better on a composite stock, Not that you have reported any problems.
One question though, was the stock bare wood or did it have a poly finish of some sort ?
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I don't think it had any kind of finish on it. Almost sure it was bare laminate. Ruger doesn't mention anything about a finish being added.
http://www.ruger-firearms.com/Firearms/FAProdView?model=7887&return=Y
I've scratched at the finish on the gun and on my nails. No result. I actually scratched at the stuff on my nails as hard as I possibly could with my other hand, after several seconds of that one or two little specks will come off, then it's stuck on the other nail I scratched with! It's very hard feeling, not sticky or tar like. But once it's on you you'd better have acetone handy. I thought the WD40 (being a petroleum distillant, and working GREAT on glue's) would break it down and get it off me... No. scratching at it while your hands are soaked with acetone takes it off half decent. Walking around all day yesterday and so far today + 2 showers hasn't taken any of it off the bottoms of my feet either. ;D
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In that case the you should never have any problems with it. I will be keeping it in mind .
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Sometimes when I spraypaint I wear disposable rubber gloves like doctors wear. A box of 100 is cheap and lasts me for several years. They have smaller packages for a dollar. I can atcually hang onto the part I'm painting and turn it around to get the other side.
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The texture does look very nice, the shine is a bit much for my taste, but could now be shot with matte black or the color pattern of your choice.
Laminate stocks are very resistant to weather changes, extreme temperature and moisture, they are impregnated under pressure with epoxy resin, the down side compared to composite is weight.
A trick by many riflesmiths , or stock specialist, is mask off the forend and grip area and apply bedliner material there for purchase. You can even do it in a pattern like Fleur de lis, if you are disposed to do so. I am talking about composite stocks.
Good job BM, enjoy it, thanks for the pics and follow ups. Feel Proud.
Rubber type gloves are great, so are coat hangers bent to your will and suspending the pieces.
Finish on the stock, is probably urethane, works great. If you have the time, buffing a laminate is prettier, looks like top of the line wood, with no pores showing, but it is not easy and takes a while. Pretty easy on knife handles though. Most custom knife handles don't have a finish, the wood is just buffed on a felt wheel with compound, whether natural wood or laminate. It is beautiful.
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Took the rifle out for a test firing this morning. Just field shooting a pop can @ 124 yards ;D.
One thing I noticed about bed liner finish is it's about the same hardness as a soft wood. If you press your finger nails into it hard it will leave a mark. For a few minutes. After that, it slowly swells back. Also after more handleing it's looses some of the "gritty" feeling, and has more of a regular "non-slip", "traction" kind of feel (what I wanted anyway). If your going out for a long day of shooting this stuff is going to have your cheek plenty sore because the cheek weld is TIGHT! BAD IDEA to put this on a .50 cal or something like that! You'll end up needing a skin graft!
If you REALLY dig your nail into it as hard as you can it will leave a perminant mark, not much of one, and with this texture, unless you know where you left the mark and exactly what angle it was at, you likely won't find it again. Plus I'm sure it could be touched up with a quick squirt from the can if you really tore into it somehow.
I'd still do it again. :)
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Took the rifle out for a test firing this morning. Just field shooting a pop can @ 124 yards ;D.
One thing I noticed about bed liner finish is it's about the same hardness as a soft wood. If you press your finger nails into it hard it will leave a mark. For a few minutes. After that, it slowly swells back. Also after more handleing it's looses some of the "gritty" feeling, and has more of a regular "non-slip", "traction" kind of feel (what I wanted anyway). If your going out for a long day of shooting this stuff is going to have your cheek plenty sore because the cheek weld is TIGHT! BAD IDEA to put this on a .50 cal or something like that! You'll end up needing a skin graft!
Now that it's fully cured I'd compare its durability to a hard wood. If you REALLY dig your nail into it as hard as you can it will leave a perminant mark, not much of one, and with this texture, unless you know where you left the mark and exactly what angle it was at, you likely won't find it again. Plus I'm sure it could be touched up with a quick squirt from the can if you really tore into it somehow.
I'd still do it again. :)
You could always use a leather cheek pad.
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The .308 recoil isn't bad. It does pull your cheek a little, and after 20 rounds or so you'd be getting sore. If anybody's putting this coating on an ought six, .300 mag, or anything with more recoil than that, and doing much shooting with it. Heck yeah! A cheek pad of some kind is gonna be a must.
Nice one.
(http://www.snipercentral.com/images/products/tacops-cheekgreen2.jpg)
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For future reference you (or who ever is thinking of using this, Like me ;D ) Might consider taping of the area where their cheek rests on the stock. Then if the bare spot doesn't look right they can hit that with ordinary untextured black paint.
That should eliminate that problem.
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For future reference you (or who ever is thinking of using this, Like me ;D ) Might consider taping of the area where their cheek rests on the stock. Then if the bare spot doesn't look right they can hit that with ordinary untextured black paint.
That should eliminate that problem.
Damn smart for an average clown on this forum. Most of us would just whine about the pain and then sand it off ;D