The Down Range Forum
Member Section => Handguns => Topic started by: RTFM on November 23, 2012, 04:34:31 PM
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Open question.. Yes or No?
I always thought NO... and have never done so
(Reason being I believe it is a vegetable oil based lubricant and over time will thicken in viscosity - IE - gum up)
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WD-40 was design as a penetrating oil to displace water or moisture. It's primarily mineral spirits and a propellant that's designed to evaporate and leave behind the lubricant. There is a solvent but it's a trade secret as to what that might be!
I don't use in guns but I'll leave the answer to those that might.
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No, for the reason RTFM mentioned, it gums up.
Tim, try your wifes nail polish remover (acetone) on it.
DO NOT USE THE NAIL POLISH REMOVER ON PLASTIC PARTS !
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PUT THE CAN DOWN, AND SLOWLY BACK AWAY!
Never use WD-40 to 'clean' a firearm. The residue becomes gummy and attracts every bit of crud in 4 counties. It does not become a protective film. 40 and 50 year old guns with a brown patina, have more often than not, been 'cleaned' with WD-40. It can almost be as bad as cosmoline when it comes to getting all the nasty gunk out.
Use Ballistol, Hoppe's, or even soap and water with a good coat of light machine oil afterwards.
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No, for the reason RTFM mentioned, it gums up.
Tim, try your wifes nail polish remover (acetone) on it.
DO NOT USE THE NAIL POLISH REMOVER ON PLASTIC PARTS !
I don't use WD-40 for anything other than to loosen rusted fasteners. My guns get the normal from Hoppes and not much else but lubricant. My 42 year old 870 has never seen anything but Hoppes and a good quality gun oil. She performs flawlessly! My 109 year old Savage gets a similar though less frequent treatment! I did run some lead removal crap some years back but it's only been fired about 20 times in the last fifty years.
Nail polish remover (acetone) should be outlawed without proper OSHA training! ;D
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Just commented on Ed Head's revolver shooting article about the same thing. Use WD-40 on your garden rake or your wrenches if they get wet.
Use a good gun product or if you need a general lubricant use auto transmission fluid.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
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Only things I use are Hoppe's or BreakFree which was formulated specifically for AR's.
Got to be careful though, it separates, then you need to heat it to about 90 degrees and shake it up to remix it.
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My solvent of choice for cleaning, i.e. washing guns is Kerosene. The problem is that it really stinks up wherever you use it. I've used WD-40 in place of it and it works fine as a solvent. But it's important that you use compressed air to blow as much of it off the weapon as possible. Then lubricate with the oil or grease of your choice. A lot of people say WD-40 is no good as a rust preventer, but that is not true. It actually works quite well. In a test Brownell's conducted it scored very near the top of all the oils and rust preventers they tested. It was after all designed to displace water and moisture.
http://www.downrange.tv/forum/index.php?topic=13326.0
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WD-40 was developed for one purpose and one purpose alone - A Water Dispersant. People have used it for many things, but it is not a penetrating oil - it will only penetrate areas large enough for it to run into, and it will not break loose corrosion; it is not a lubricant - it stops squeaks temporarily, but so will water. Work the joint a little and the noise returns; and it is not a solvent of any sort - it does not cut grease and grime any better than any other liquid. It only appears to because we rub it harder and harder thinking it is working.
However, you have got to admire the marketing department for how they have buffaloed us for decades.
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OK kids... this was a trick question
In a way.
I thought the WD-40 as a NO-NO..... and now the reason I posted it.
Please see the article from Ed Head on the main Down Range TV web site.
http://www.downrange.tv/blog/revolver-tips-and-tricks/18975/
Notice the picture.....
(http://www.downrange.tv/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/revolvertipsandtricks2-300x177.jpg)
Now notice where the red "squirt tube" is pointing.
and now read the following quote from Ed Head.
One other caution: don’t squirt oil or solvent down into the action thinking this will help clean it or smooth the internal parts. It won’t, and will cause crud to stick to the oil and build up quickly.
Just wanted to bring to light a WHAT? ??? moment - seeing the picture and reading the words - not jiving.
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Did you notice my comment under the article?
It was such words of wisdom ill quote it for you ;D
Alfred Sauve says:
November 21, 2012 at 7:12 pm
Tell me that the picture representing “Clean It” isn’t WD-40 and it isn’t spraying the stuff into the action via the hammer slot. Just tell me I was hallucinating. WD-40 is right up there with 3-in-1 oil as one of the worst “lubricants”. (Actually they’re both owned by the same company.) It’s great for getting water off your tools when they get wet, but not for lubrication. And the article specifically says don’t try to spray lubricant into the action, but the picture only re-enforces the bad practice.
Come on Ed, Marshall, Michael. I’m available if you need someone to better select supporting pictures for an article.
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It needs a red circle with a line through it.
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OK kids... this was a trick question
In a way.
I thought the WD-40 as a NO-NO..... and now the reason I posted it.
Please see the article from Ed Head on the main Down Range TV web site.
http://www.downrange.tv/blog/revolver-tips-and-tricks/18975/
Notice the picture.....
(http://www.downrange.tv/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/revolvertipsandtricks2-300x177.jpg)
Now notice where the red "squirt tube" is pointing.
and now read the following quote from Ed Head.
Just wanted to bring to light a WHAT? ??? moment - seeing the picture and reading the words - not jiving.
My take on this was that it was a editing/layout mistake and somewhere along the line someone forgot to superimpose a big red prohibition symbol on the picture.
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Honestly Alfsauve, I did not see (or obviously read) your comment.
Talk about total condition White situational awareness huh?
Apparently great minds DO think alike though! ;D
Yah Ichiban, most possibly someone did drop the ball.... but until it is fixed.... it's outlining exactly how to do what not to do.
AND... in a HOW TO post to boot.
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I was once a WD-40 addict, but have seen the error of my ways. I still use it but only for things that get wet, like tools after working on plumbing.
Nothing wrong with 3-in-1 as a mechanical lubricant for gross machinery. But for "fine" machinery it will gum up in a short period of time.
My dad had a saying, "Never use oil on clocks or locks." I extend that to mean "everyday oil" on 'lockworks".
BTB, for those wondering how to get rid of squeaky hinges, use a silicone spray. Will last as long and won't attracts dust and dirt.
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RTFM,
As my ole daddy used to say: "Son, don't ask questions you already know the answer to. Now bend over..." I just wish people would stop trying to find home remedies for their rifles and revolvers. You pay good money for them and then try to save .50c or a $1 on keeping them in good condition. I just don't see the payback in that.
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I thought 3-in-1 oil was designed as a fine machine oil for sewing machines with rapidly moving parts? Famed gunsmith Alex Hamilton lauds it as a firearms lubricant. I've used it for years.
Anywhooo.... as to the OP, as others have mentioned, WD-40 is not meant as a long-term lube for firearms. I have used it when hunting or camping and a weapon got wet..... saturate the gun in the sweet-smelling fish oil and drive all the moisture out (as its intended use). I just made sure to re-clean when I got home after the trip.
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Apropos of not very much in this context, but I just came across this titbit:
Penetrating Oils
Machinist's Workshop magazine
recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting.
Some of you might appreciate this. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts.
They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist.
They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a
"scientifically rusted" environment.
*Penetrating oils ........... Average torque load to loosen*
No Oil used ................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF*-Acetone mix............53 pounds
The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone.
Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test.
Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results.
Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil"
for about 20% of the price.
Steve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix.
*ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid
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Good info, Bic..... nice to have a measurable comparison for those of us who tend to lean toward tedium in matters such as this (raising my hand) ;D .................
I have been a long-term proponent of the use of PB B'laster and Liquid Wrench from back in my industrial days....good stuff.
I have been using Kroil for about seven years to great effect.... mostly with firearms, but other things like seized padlocks and the like. I use the Kroil more than Hoppe's these days.
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Learned about PB Blaster when I was trying to get the rusted bed bolts off my Jeep J-20 pick up.
PB-Blaster WORKED!
Took about three days of wetting but hey they were put on 33 years ago....
Kroil - an old time gunner told me about that to loosen crud from rifling inside a barrel.
Also works.
Anyone familiar with Ballistol?
I know Hickok45 lives and dies by it - have not tried it my self.
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Learned about PB Blaster when I was trying to get the rusted bed bolts off my Jeep J-20 pick up.
PB-Blaster WORKED!
Took about three days of wetting but hey they were put on 33 years ago....
Kroil - an old time gunner told me about that to loosen crud from rifling inside a barrel.
Also works.
Anyone familiar with Ballistol?
I know Hickok45 lives and dies by it - have not tried it my self.
First time I used Kroil, it was after getting it in a combo pack from Brownells along with a jar each of JB Bore compound and JB Bore Bright. Since then, that is my preferred cleaning method.......... Soaking with Kroil and patching, followed by the two JB's in succession.
http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleaning-chemicals/solvents-degreasers/bore-cleaning-paste/j-b-bore-compound-kroil-prod1159.aspx#.ULK-0oeZk4c
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Heard a story about WD40 and ammo a while ago. Apparently there was security guard who religiously cleaned his revolver with wd40 and got it on the shells. They found him dead after a break in with his revolver all 6 shells with dimpled primers none of them fired. The WD 40 had penetrated and deactivated the primers.
Don't try this at home
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Thanks JoeG. You prove my point. Guns are not machines to be treated as motors, lathes, grinders, door hinges or saws. Guns are living extensions of our bodies and brains and should be treated accordingly. Guns are survival and freedom. Guns are alive (loaded) for a reason. We rely on them for life and liberty. If we treat them well and don't cut corners, they will be there for us when we need them. As that security guard found out, it's too late when you realize you used the wrong stuff. Okay, all you motor oil freaks, have at me!
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I have had just the opposit happen! I had to pull a bullet from a split .38 Spl. case that I missed during inspection. I sprayed WD-40 in the case and let it sit overnight (longer, I think). Just for S&G I checked to see if it would fire...it did! Glad I put my e & e protection on and fired in a safe direction.
FWIW
Richard
PS: I try to fire any primer I am able so I don't throw out a live one.
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WD40 works great for cleaning oil, grease and heavy fuel oil off of engine parts, but not for for rust prevention. HFO (Bunker C) is like tar and this stuff cuts it great. the only problem is that it evaporates too quickly and leaves your parts (or gun) unprotected by the oil and grease you just cleaned off. also beware, it breaks down rubber and plastic. never use it to lubricate air tools, use regular engine oil for that. as I said, it's great as a solvent, just don't forget to remove it all and protect your equipment when you're done.
deepwater
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Something else WD-40 is good for....it'll clean black shoe scuff marks off a floor......
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I have used WD40 on guns plenty of times. I routinely take it to deer camp and have used it particularly when back in camp after wet, damp, rainy, or snowy conditions to displace the moisture from all the nooks and crannies of my rifle.
A number of years back, one of the guys was using it in the field to frequently spry his rifle down with it when hunting on a rainy day. He took a shot at a buck and the gun went click when he pulled the trigger. He was about to open the bolt when the gun finally went bang. Not sure if the hang fire was caused by the WD-40 or the rain or just coincidence.
I have had good luck with it for loosening exhaust nuts and bolt if you can apply it the day before you do he work.
I had always heard that WD-40 was developed for NASA and the technicians there keep talking the stuff home, so it was marketed and sold to the public.
Here are a couple of good links about WD-40, one about what is in as analyzed with gas chromatography and mass spectrometry. Look out for the cock roaches. The other is a wiki link about WD-40 in general
http://www.wired.com/science/discoveries/magazine/17-05/st_whatsinside
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40
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Not sure if the hang fire was caused by the WD-40 or the rain or just coincidence.
My bet would be the wd40 as one of the reasons it penetrates is very low surface tension compared to water. Water beads up where wd40 will spread out and flow through a crack or seam. It may carry water with it into the interior, don't know about that but I do know it will wet a primer and deactivate it. Primer material is only shock sensitive when dry.
I use it to deactivate bad primers from reloading. Just put in a ziplock soak in wd40 and seal it up and throw away after a few days.
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My bet would be the wd40 as one of the reasons it penetrates is very low surface tension compared to water. Water beads up where wd40 will spread out and flow through a crack or seam. It may carry water with it into the interior, don't know about that but I do know it will wet a primer and deactivate it. Primer material is only shock sensitive when dry.
I use it to deactivate bad primers from reloading. Just put in a ziplock soak in wd40 and seal it up and throw away after a few days.
Expanding on that I remember in the 80's a lot of information floating out there, including police departments, to keep WD 40 away from guns...because someone always get's sloppy and gets the stuff on ammo and the primers get wet and fail.
WD 40 is, as I understand it, Water Displacement formula # 40 and was developed to spray on and maintain the outer skin of nuke missiles...whether it was used for that or not I don't know...just that I heard it was in the development chain for that purpose.
Some of the guys from the sandbox told me it was the best thing for their AR's to keep them running in the sand because it did not stay wet and collect sand like other oils did....I was kinda shocked because of the old edicts to keep WD 40 away from weapons but they said it worked best for them....I can't argue with actual experience.
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If WD-40 had worked well, by now there would be a WD-45 and a WD-9 and a WD-380 etc. I just assumed it was not so great since they never expanded past the 40 cal.
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That there folks... that's funny. :D