The Down Range Forum
Member Section => Reloading => Topic started by: wtr100 on March 09, 2011, 11:49:02 AM
-
I got about $50 round of 30-06 that have a bit more powder than I think they might ought to
so how to fix 'em
I hear the whack-a-mole ones are a pain
RCBS and Lyman make pullers that look good - I see the Forseter Super fast looks great but is discontinued
what do folks think?
-
I started pulling bullets with the RCBS impact puller but and became frustrated with the tedious job.
I purchased the RCBS press mounted collet puller but found it was even more difficult to use.
With the impact puller, no grip on the bullet is required.....just tighten on the case and whack away.
With the collet type it does require a good grip on the bullet and I found that, with the RCBS model, this was difficult to obtain easily without damaging the bullets.
I've stuck with the impact puller since then.
I've never tried the Forester and my experience with the RCBS model was 25 years ago, so there may have been improvements.
-
Impact is the absolute simplest. You just have to whack it like you mean it.
No tap tap tap, WALLOP that sucker. It's a hammer, use it like one.
-
Whack-a-bullet, is the cheapest. It also doesn't damage the bullet. Yes it's slow, but hey that's what they make TV for, to numb your mind while you disassemble 50 rounds.
Like Tom said, find a really hard surface (concrete basement floor) and really whack it. I then dump powder and bullet into a tray and separate them when I've done.
If you don't have a concrete floor, then the anvil part of a really heavy vice would work nicely. Wood surfaces give too much.
-
Now a days in the modern technology age, sometimes the simplest non-tech stuff works the best ;). I use the whack-a-mole approach (RCBS impact puller) because it works & works very well without damaging the bullet. As everyone else has said - whack that mother.
-
I have a better solution...
use your scale.
if you know about what the primed case wieghts , what the bullet wieghts and what the powder charge should be/ you think it is...
granted if this is a small over charge, this method won't work.
-
I have a better solution...
use your scale.
if you know about what the primed case wieghts , what the bullet wieghts and what the powder charge should be/ you think it is...
granted if this is a small over charge, this method won't work.
no they've got 54.1 gr of 2520 - max is 51.0 so we're looking a 6% over charge - I suspect I could get away with just shooting it but not worth the risk
lesson learned wear my !@#$ bi-focals when using the beam scale
[insert own old person joke here]
-
Let's start at the beginning.
First, the hammer type bullet pullers are inertia pullers. They use Newtons law of motion. Second, they will damage the bullet nose when it hits bottom. Third, if you have a lot of bullets to pull they are a serious pain. Fourth, I've had one and used it for more years and more bullets than I care to count.
Now the press mounted collet type pullers. They are NOT hard to set up just follow the directions. (I know, I just lost all my at-a-boys.) If used correctly they only put minor scratches on the bullet. You only have to put enough pressure on the bullet to get it out of the case and remember when the bullet exits the barrel it is all scratched up anyway. These are much faster and cleaner to use. The bullet is in the collet and the powder is still in the case. The only down side is you must have a collet for each bullet diameter (22, 24 30 etc.).
Now having said all that, if you only have a few bullets to pull (a dozen or so) use the inertia puller. If you have a bunch to pull use a collet type. That's what I do and it works for me.
Hope this helps, Pecos
-
Second, they will damage the bullet nose when it hits bottom.
Never had a bullet damaged by a whack-a-mole. Mine is padded at the bottom.
-
I once pulled a few hundred with the inertia puller. It does take a nice hard surface and good thump. I don't know of any bullets that were damaged doing this, but then I am pulling FMJ bullets. I suppose that maybe the plastic tipped ones could possibly be harmed..
-Bidah
-
Never had a bullet damaged by a whack-a-mole. Mine is padded at the bottom.
Mine doesn't have a pad and will damage soft points. I just find the press mounted easier if you have a bunch to do.
Pecos
-
Put a cotton ball in the bottom of it. Or a small piece of cloth.
-
Put a cotton ball in the bottom of it. Or a small piece of cloth.
Thanks, Tom, I was going to put a piece of rubber in but I don't use it enough. I still will use to press mounted puller for any number over a dozen or so. It's faster, quieter and less hassle for me any way.
Pecos
-
Mine doesn't have a pad and will damage soft points.
It's only cosmetic. Bullet tip damage is really nothing to worry about.
-
It's only cosmetic. Bullet tip damage is really nothing to worry about.
Funny I always thought the bullet tip was what guided the bullet through the air and any damage there would upset the bullet and cause lack of accuracy.
Perhaps I missed the joke?
Pecos
-
Funny I always thought the bullet tip was what guided the bullet through the air and any damage there would upset the bullet and cause lack of accuracy.
Perhaps I missed the joke?
Pecos
If you are looking for one hole groups, yes. But for field use, minute of Ahole, Minute of venison, not so much.
-
Funny I always thought the bullet tip was what guided the bullet through the air and any damage there would upset the bullet and cause lack of accuracy.
Perhaps I missed the joke?
Pecos
No joke.
There was a bullet damage test done in one of my hundred or so gun magazines.
They took a rifle round, I believe it was an '06, and ground the bullet to a 45 deg. angle at the tip - the pics looked like took off about 1/4" total.
More severe damage than ANY puller, whether inertia of collet, would do.
The bullets shot just fine and grouped just like their unaltered brethren. IIRC, the range was 100 or 200 yards.
The only way they could get the bullets to do something weird was to load one backwards.
(with a reduced powder charge due to the full diameter of the bullet hitting the rifling all at once.)
That one tumbled but still hit the target.
-
.......Now the press mounted collet type pullers. They are NOT hard to set up just follow the directions. (I know, I just lost all my at-a-boys.) If used correctly they only put minor scratches on the bullet. You only have to put enough pressure on the bullet to get it out of the case and remember when the bullet exits the barrel it is all scratched up anyway. These are much faster and cleaner to use. The bullet is in the collet and the powder is still in the case. The only down side is you must have a collet for each bullet diameter (22, 24 30 etc.).
Now having said all that, if you only have a few bullets to pull (a dozen or so) use the inertia puller. If you have a bunch to pull use a collet type. That's what I do and it works for me.
I agree with the above from Pecos. I disassembled 600 factory rounds for a project and used a bullet puller from RCBS, which I highly recommend- http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=680804
-FA
-
Funny I always thought the bullet tip was what guided the bullet through the air and any damage there would upset the bullet and cause lack of accuracy.
Perhaps I missed the joke?
Pecos
You could cut the tip off a bullet and have little or no affect on accuracy, however damage the base of the bullet and kis accuracy goodbye.
-
You could cut the tip off a bullet and have little or no affect on accuracy, however damage the base of the bullet and kis accuracy goodbye.
Funny how the physics of that works, but for the most part you are correct.
Kind of like an arrow's flight being stabilized more by the fletching than the tip.
Some of the most accurate bullets on the planet are Sierra MatchKings. They are hollow point boat-tails. You would think a bullet like their BlitzKing (with the plastic tip) or a FMJ would be the most accurate...but they have found through research that the coefficient from the hollow tip, combined with the design of the boat-tail derives the best accuracy.
http://www.sierrabullets.com/index.cfm?section=bullets&page=rifle&brandID=1
-
my elbow gets enough strain as it is, so I am really liking the RCBS collet type puller. The caliber specific collets do add up price wise and so do the shellholders....since I reload on a Dillon 650. but it is cheaper than having elbow surgery.
-
my elbow gets enough strain as it is, so I am really liking the RCBS collet type puller. The caliber specific collets do add up price wise and so do the shellholders....since I reload on a Dillon 650. but it is cheaper than having elbow surgery.
You need an Apprentice, Tyler.
A relative or friend who is interested in learning reloading, or who would just like some of the fruits of your reloading.
Tell them the Whack-A-Mole Drill is subliminal training......like Wax On/Wax Off.