The Down Range Forum
Member Section => Handguns => Topic started by: alfsauve on March 03, 2016, 07:40:52 AM
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Been breaking in a 929 the last couple of months. It's pretty much going to be the revolver de rigueur for ICORE, USPSA and other action competition allowing 8 rounds.
I know S&W built it after consultation with JM and other master pistolaros, but, and I knew this going in, I'd much prefer it be 5" barrel with no comp, than the 6" plus 1/2" comp extension. It's just a little barrel heavy for me, especially in things like plates.
Works fine, after all it's a Smith. I'll probably take it to my smith and get "the treament", but have just gone over 1,000rds break-in, so maybe in a month or two.
My discovery though with this is the moon clip issue. Obviously, the $1ea clips aren't as well made as the $8 ones. But how hard can it be to stamp out a moon clip? Well it turns out just that little attention to finer tolerances makes a big difference. My Ranch clips are loosey goosey and some of the ammo, Tula brass in particular, don't even stay in. The TK clips, are very tight, can't be loaded without a BMT tool and haven't dropped the loosest of shells. So while I will continue to use the Ranch ones for practice, TK will be the moon clips of choice of competition.
I'll do pictures this range session.
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If there is a sheet metal shop near you, you can get your moon clips custom made.
If they have a punch press it's not very difficult.
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Got the 929 back from my gun smith with the "Apex" treatment. Light weight hammer different springs, plus he grinds down the strain screw instead of backing it out to achieve the desired weight.
First thing was it won't fire CCI primers reliably, which is a given. Federal primers work fine, as does American Eagle factory ammo. Smooth trigger. Have the Fiber Optic front sight on order. Looking good.
BUT, on my first outing last week, it wasn't grouping worth beans with my standard 124gr ammo. Hmmm. So this week I took 124gr, 115gr and 147 grain ammo out. Looks like I'll be moving to 147gr in the future. Need to do some 50yds bench work with my Glock and M&P. They might benefit as well with a different weight.
Drawings show groupings.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Gun-General/i-sTRpc89/0/L/124gr-L.jpg)
This one's 115gr. Wrote it at the top, but cropped out unnecessary parts of picture.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Gun-General/i-X54LZpM/0/L/115gr-L.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Gun-General/i-d6WTqkJ/0/L/147gr-L.jpg)
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Alf, if you aren't on the Brian Enos forum I suggest you join. Tons of good info for the comp. shooter especially concerning the 929 in the revo thread.
FWIW
Richard
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Thanks, Richard.
I'm a member over there, but like so many other forums it's too busy. I check in when I have specific problems though. I might go catch up on the 929 discussions this weekend.
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The 147gr have significantly more bearing surface, in the lighter weights try hollow points, as they usually have more bearing surface as well. Also you can find 9mm in .355, .356, .3565", .357" o.d. this can yield big benefits, when I shot USPSA with a wheel gun, my load was 158gr rn @ 1100fps, very accurate with both, .3565 and. 357's but the .3565 left significantly less lead deposits. For plates I shoot .356 115gr 9mm pointed in 38spl cases in my 627PC, not super accurate, but 8" plates @ 35yds are no problem with little recoil @ 1050fps.
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Glad to see your wisdom here, Bennie.
Any praise I could give would be an understatement.
Take care always.
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I use all S&W clips*, and they last a long time, they hold rounds well, and they keep the rounds stable. When comparing the cost it is good to remember that you get what you pay for, and a more expensive clip will end up being cheaper in the long run. Also, a quality clip will keep you calm in competition, because it will work better.
I need to make a new tool, because I let someone use mine, and I never got it back. I purchased a tool from Dillon to unload the clips, a simple tool that anchors in the center, lines up with two rounds at a time, and declips them with a simple squeeze. For loading the clips I took a pair of large pliers, and I ground the jaws - one concave and the other convex. Put the cartridge next to the clip and squeeze with the pliers. $5 and a little grinder time ;D
* Where is HazCat with all this clip talk. Even in the correct context he would have some smartass comment.
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Alf,
You may already know this, and maybe I brought it up with one of your previous purchase, but don't buy the JM spring kit! Great kit, but it is designed around Jerry. Rather than lightening everything, it increases the pressures. This is to make everything in the gun move as fast as he shoots.
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Thanks guys,
I'm catching up on the 929 threads.
I've got the cheaper moon clips which are okay, though Tula brass is undersized and will drop out. When I get around to using these for competition, I'll be using TK clips. Tough and tight. I use the BMT mooner tool. Can't imagine any other one as easy.
I see that in 929's people trying and using all variety of sizes and weights. 9mm cases and .38SC cases. Don't see a reason to go with the SC cases, besides I just sold all mine off. I may, for the fun of it load up a few .357 bullets just for and accuracy test. A number of comptetions and some ranges don't allow hollow points where steel is involved. I'll stick with RN and truncated designs.
Long term: I want a 5" barrel with no comp or weight. My smith is looking into the cost and feasibility of using a 627 barrel. This could turn into a rather expensive, Frankin-gun.
I'm aware that in revolvers light weight springs isn't all it's cracked up to be. You have to have return spring strong enough to reset the trigger reliably. I know Jerry's aren't that light. Mine come in around 7-8# DA.
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I know you told me once you don't need any .38 spcl brass but I still have a few hundred once fired in bags around here.
Any takers???
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[Timothy, thank you but, I've got two large buckets of .38 brass I haven't touched yet.]
Update: Did a lot of reading over at Enos's forum. I'm considering cutting off the 1/2" nub of the barrel and reshaping the under lug. Fairly doable myself.
While waiting to get some 147gr bullets to reload, I decided, as have a number of other 929 owners, to try .357" dia bullets. So I loaded up a small batch with 125gr .357's I use for my .38spl. Cut back on the TiteGroup by 10% AND........
50 Yds hand held with bag support. The vertical stringing is my poor sighting. The club has a Ransom rest which I'll check out next time. Velocity came in just a tad low averaging about 980fps. Horizontally that's about 2.75"
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Gun-General/i-PQHkFwR/0/L/IMG_5473-L.jpg)
Now don't ask me how, I think when I was chrono testing, and not aiming too exactly, I bounced one off the ground in front of the target. I found the round in the target, halfway embedded, backwards facing. I guess I could measure the grove size as it's about the same as slugging a barrel. The lands are not as deep as the picture appears, btw.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Gun-General/i-MDLpHPD/0/L/IMG_5471-L.jpg)
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Almost there. FO site installed. Just got to decide what to do about the barrel.
Cut it off? Leave it alone?
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Gun-General/i-LGnkpZ9/0/X2/IMG_5485-X2.jpg)
Here. Hold my beer. What the worst that could happen?
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Thanks for holding my beer. The local candy store, Adv Outdoors, in its price list says the gunsmith will cut and recrown a barrell for $80. I took him up on it. He was surprised at what it was. Since it wasn't a whole barrel he only charged $75.
The gun handles so much better without the weight up front. Ran 240 rounds through it mostly on plates. It felt very good. No outstanding times, but I could move from plate to plate very consistently.
What a waste that whole barrel weight/compensator is. It's a 9mm for goodness sake, not a .460. Now it's up to me to reshape the under lug. The plan is to start using this in ICORE Limited and USPSA Revolver after the IRC this fall.
Don't make fun of how dirty it is. I just got back from the range.
The perspective makes the barrel look shorter, but it's a 6" barrel.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Gun-General/i-tS2QsZ4/0/L/IMG_5651-L.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Gun-General/i-F4bvv4v/0/L/IMG_5647-L.jpg)
This didn't come out as clear as I would have liked.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Gun-General/i-FL5xTxm/0/L/IMG_5659-L.jpg)
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Cut ? ?
I thought S&W barrels just unscrewed ?
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Alf... I know you are an experienced revolver shooter, but have you measured the exit diameter at the front of each chamber?... your pistol smith should have a precision ground plug gauge...at least put a "bullet on a stick" to see if one chamber is tighter than the rest... this was a big problem with Ruger single action guns
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Cut ? ?
I thought S&W barrels just unscrewed ?
Well yes, they do unscrew but I just want to remove the stupid 1/2" nub on the front.
Ultimately, I'd like a 5" barrel on it. When I have more money than sense I'll get my gunsmith to see if the 5" 627 barrel will fit.
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Alf... I know you are an experienced revolver shooter, but have you measured the exit diameter at the front of each chamber?... your pistol smith should have a precision ground plug gauge...at least put a "bullet on a stick" to see if one chamber is tighter than the rest... this was a big problem with Ruger single action guns
Why thank you, but my "experience" is by hard knocks and I'm not all that good.
I'll check, but I think this particular gun got special attention back at the factory. The gun store returned it twice for obvious flaws before they even sold it. I haven't checked the groups since I had it bobbed. I'll do that in the next couple of weeks. And I'll see about measuring each chamber.