The Down Range Forum
Member Section => Reloading => Topic started by: bjtraz on March 17, 2011, 08:05:23 PM
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I've been depriming .223 brass, first with a full length sizing die, and then with a general decapping die. Both dies are Lee brand. Anyway, the depriming rod has a rod with a smaller "pin" set into a cavity. This pin keeps being pulled out, stuck in the flash hole. Is this germane to Lee brand? Or does all brands of deprimers operate similarly? I'm sure it is cheaper to manufacture these in two pieces and press them together.
Brian
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Check the brass, it might not be boxer primed, if they are berdan primed you would be punching a hole through the primer pocket which could cause the decapping pin to stick.
side view of a berdan primed case
http://www.dave-cushman.net/shot/berdanprimers.html
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Thanks, but it isn't Berdan primed. The die has a safety feature built into it if an odd Berdan gets into the mix. the depriming rod is made to push up if it meets too much resistance, and would then be reset. This is depriming and then catching in the flash hole on the up stroke.
Brian
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undersized flash hole would be my next thought
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Excess pressure rounds will force brass into the Primer pocket and flash hole, is this factory ammo or some ones hot reloads ?
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undersized flash hole would be my next thought
This is a thought that I got from another board. The brass is of mixed head stamp, with a predominance of military. Supposedly, IMG brand is notorious for undersized flash holes, and that is one of the dominant brands. These are mostly my own once fired, with an amount of range pick ups mixed in.
Now for a solution. Do other brands of dies operate the same as Lee? I need to figure out something as I have over 1000 cases to process.
Brian
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undersized or wrong/defective depriming rod are the only 2 things that come to mind.
if its not happening ever time, its most likly not the rod but the brass. I only throw tha tout there as I've seen the wrong decaping rod on dies before.
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Get a Lyman Universal Decaping die. Mine has never given me a minutes trouble.
Pecos
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OK, I solved my problem, BUT! I created another. I bought a RCBS decapping die and no longer have the problem of the decapping pins pulling out. The model I bought has "headed" pins, that don't allow them to pull out. The new problem is breaking the pins. I bought a pkg of 5, in addition to the one it came with, and tonight I went thru all of them. Is there a secret to getting them centered? I just need to get thru about another hundred or so. I really like this style of rod/stem over Lee, just need to figure this out.
Brian
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No "secret" to it, even a "no experience beginner like me managed it with no problems.
You just have a bunch of shit brass.
After you get through them ream the flash holes to a more reasonable size.
You said "These are mostly my own once fired, "
If you mean they were your loads you should go with a lighter load .
Industry standardizes as much as possible, having worked with metal for nearly 30 years I would be leery of gossip about "undersize primer holes" I would be much more suspicious of pressure levels.
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OK, I solved my problem, BUT! I created another. I bought a RCBS decapping die and no longer have the problem of the decapping pins pulling out. The model I bought has "headed" pins, that don't allow them to pull out. The new problem is breaking the pins. I bought a pkg of 5, in addition to the one it came with, and tonight I went thru all of them. Is there a secret to getting them centered? I just need to get thru about another hundred or so. I really like this style of rod/stem over Lee, just need to figure this out.
Brian
The best way to center the pin would be to have an already deprimed cartridge raised into the die with the pin in the flash hole before you tighten the die. Since the die you are now using is not a sizing die, it should center on the flash hole.
Bonanza/Forster makes a press named Co-Ax which allows the die to shift forward and back in the frame while letting the shell holder jaws shift left and right. This allows each case to "center" itself in the die.
The press is single stage but it allows very quick die changes. It doesn't look as robust as an "O" press but is should handle any of your normal reloading tasks and any of those you choose not to run on a progressive, if you have one.
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tonight I went thru all of them. Is there a secret to getting them centered?
They are centered when you assemble them or at least close enough if the flash hole is anywhere near where it's supposed to be.
From other boards LC brass was mentioned as having a small flash hole, gives some folks problems but not others.
Military brass has crimped primers. You can get a decapping rod from Sinclair or get a Lee hand loader and punch them out, then ream or swage the primer crimp away.
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Thanx for all the replies. I FINALLY finished depriming all of the brass, and cleaned and sized most of it before I got tired and quit for the night. I finally got the hang of using the RCBS decapper. You're right, the secret was to go slower and feel the pin go through the flash hole. If you don't feel it, raise the handle and try again. Also, if it felt too hard after reaching the primer, just pull the case and throw away. The problem headstamp was IMG.
I have an idea for the perfect decapper. You take Lee's idea for a "sliding" rod/stem, so that it gives when it reaches too much resistance. And add the replaceable pin idea the RCBS has. Especially with the "headed" pins that prevent being pulled out. Who wants to bank roll this idea?!? ;D
Brian