The Down Range Forum
Member Section => Down Range Cafe => Topic started by: M1AEN on April 10, 2010, 08:59:54 PM
-
Hi, I'm new to the forum so if there is an answer to this question already please point me in the right direction. I need to put a knife in my bug out bag/72 hour kit and would like recommendations on what to buy. Also I need a good hunting/general purpose knife to carry. All ideas appreciated.
Thank You,
-
Can't help you there M1AEN, but welcome and please stop over on the introductions thread here in the cafe and tell us about yourself.
-
I will go ahead and tell you what I have: Four inch Schrade with gut hook. It is my hunting knife and what I use when stomping the woods.
-
Cold Steel Master Hunter:
http://www.outdoorbunker.com/Cold_Steel_Master_Hunter_Fixed_Blade_Knife_36JSK_p/(cst-36jsk-).htm
Boring and cheap...I have 2 in my B.O.B.
Carry folder is a Spyderco Yojimbo designed by Michael Janich....
Michael B
-
I suggest the Glock survival knife with 6.5" blade with saw on top made from Austrian steel, www.glock.com $30.00
-
how about a buck 110, every one should own atleast one and its still made in the USA.
-
While these aren't exactly in the Bug out bag. I do have them in the safe where they would be quick to grab with the ammo and firearms. I've got a KBAR, A SOG Bowie. In the bag itself I do have a Gerber with the F.A.S.T. system and a Buck Jacknife. I ususally have a S&W Swat knife in my jeans or 5.11
-
In the bag I have a K-bar with synthetic handle. Got it on sale from a local outfit for about $40.
Personal carry is a Kershaw Ken Onion folder.
-
Full-size military Ka-Bar always works, fixed blade of course.
(http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm182/twyacht/1217.jpg)
-
I am of the opinion that you are going to want at least two or more knives. Knives have to serve purpose-specific needs. You need something larger for hacking, chopping, fighting, construction, etc., and the K-Bar USMC mentioned above serves that purpose admirably. That's my choice, too and I have one in my bag. Then, you will need something smaller for the more precision tasks like carving, splinter-removal, cutting vegetables and meat, etc. For this, you will want something like the Buck 110, which I also have in my BOB.
But, here's a cautionary note on the Buck knives--they are no longer made exclusively in the good old US of A. Walmart made a devil's deal with Buck to purchase x-number of Buck folding hunters IF Buck would reduce the price to something obscenely low. Greed got the better of Buck, they said "yes" and they went to China for production. You can still get a Buck 110 made in the US, just not at Walmart. Look on the hilt of the blade. If it says China, it's junk.
I think you will want to carry one more knife with you for the thousands of small tasks knives are needed for, and my choice is a Case Texas Toothpick in vanadium chrome steel. The blade will stain and even rust if neglected, but it takes and holds an incredible edge. The Toothpick comes in two sizes, small and large. I carry the small Case but I am looking for a large. They can be found in surgical stainless, and I may have to settle for that.
Finally, you will need a good, compact sharpening system. I went with the Smith's Precision Sharpening Kit for around $30. It has a guide that ensures you put on a correctly angled edge on your blades. I need all the help I can get, so that works for me.
Hope this helps you refine your search,
Crusader
-
Full-size military Ka-Bar always works, fixed blade of course.
(http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm182/twyacht/1217.jpg)
+1 I have 2 of these and a kukri for the big jobs. ;D
-
Wow, thanks for all the info. I noticed that nobody suggested a tanto type point. Is that coincidence or on purpose? I had someone tell me that the tanto point was better suited for all around use and not subject to being broken off as easily. Good idea or bad idea?
Thank You,
-
I noticed that nobody suggested a tanto type point. Is that coincidence or on purpose? I had someone tell me that the tanto point was better suited for all around use and not subject to being broken off as easily. Good idea or bad idea?
Drop point or tanto point may have some legitimate uses. But, I tend to think of an all-around knife as a pointed instrument and I tend to think of a tanto as a chisel-type tool. It's a good point type for a dive knife where cutting is not as important as prying. And there are other uses. But your fixed-blade BOB knife should IMHO also have the capability of becoming a spear head, a stabbing instrument, etc. Tanto points don't lend themselves as well to those tasks.
Someone mentioned a kukri--not a bad idea for the big, chopping jobs. A small Collins machete (18-24") would also work.
Finally, I would suggest that you get the best steel you can afford. And it should probably be a carbon steel or chrome vanadium steel rather than most versions of stainless. Stainless is difficult to get sharp and has trouble staying sharp. Stainless has its place as a fillet knife in a tackle box where it will be subject to damp, maybe salty conditions. But dead fish aren't that tough to cut. Dead animals can be tougher and you will want a better blade.
-
I think, Michael Janich had thoughts on a "tanto" type blade, I think it's in the D&T thread.
-
Always had a soft spot for machetes...carried them a lot on my occasional forays into the Third World...if I remember correctly, I paid USD$3 for a cheap machete and a flat file to put a better edge on it. That included a canvas sheath with a strap that could be carried over the shoulder. They work excellent for big chopping chores and are wicked as an improvised self-defense tool. Get two, they're cheap.
I like tanto points, but there's no magic there...I like Wharncliffe blades for dedicated self-defense knives, but they are (IMHO) too fragile, too specialized for all-around use. Ditto for spearpoints. Tanto points are the world's greatest can openers!
Michael B
-
I have the Chuck Stapel knife that I won from MB and Co. in my BOB! I know it's an expensive collector's item but, hey, it's a BOB! ;D
I also have several other hunting and skinning knives in it, along with 500rnds of 3 different types of ammo! 8)
-
I think, Michael Janich had thoughts on a "tanto" type blade, I think it's in the D&T thread.
I believe it amounted to "Keep 'em on Samurai Swords and off pocket knives' blades."
-
In the BoB, I think 2 knives are required, 1 that is for serious or heavy duty use, Kabar USMC, good, Glock half serrated, and half plain edge, my choice, the cold steel 5" SRK, and the trail master. 2nd, a multi tool, like a good leatherman, especially the wave, or a Gerber, can opener, saw blade, screwdrivers, scissors, toothpick, tweezers etc... I preferr the Kershaw sharpener, modular and light, with a diamond grit blade, it works, not the the best for super fine edges, but go's to work fast, and definitely workable, weighs very little. A machete is an excellent tool, I keep one in my truck tool box, along with a cheap wood saw. Last, in my everyday pants, a Spyderco, EMT, orange handled blunt point, serrated, and a full size, 5" voyager, a lot of big knife, that is always on my person, if my pants are on of course. A p38 can opener on your key ring, is a good tool as well.
-
I carry three in mine. A SOG Seal Pup, a CRKT 3" Folder, and of course my Gerber Multi Tool.
-
I'm a bit late to this thread but here is my .02. As far as "The One Knife" get a Buck Zipper. Its a fixed blade with a gut hook that performs just as advertised. It will gut a deer or hog with no muss or fuss. The blade (which after several deer and pigs I have yet to resharpen because it doesn't need it) is so sharp you will bleed by looking at it. I have no idea how Buck puts so fine an edge on it, but would pay good money to find out. One of my fayorite stories was when I'd just bought the thing and was using it to fillet fish for several friends as I couldn't find my fillet knife and it was the sharpest thing I had. My friend Joe picked it up and I warned him it was sharp. He replied that it was no problem and he was used to knives while testing the edge with his finger. It was at that point that the first drop of blood hit the floor. His girlfriends squeal was all the warning he had as he didn't even feel the cut. True story. For $75 dollars with the rubber gripped handle witch provides a good grip if your hands are wet from blood or rain, I can't think of a better fixed blade for general camp chores and hunting/fishing unless you plan on chopping wood or getting into a knife fight (and even here, the Buck would get my undivided attention. A Scary sharp blade and an equally sharp gut hook? Not something I'want stuck into me and pulled out.). I would however also carry a second pocket knife. Swiss army knives have crap for blades, but the scissors, tweezers, screw drivers and cork screws are darned handy. My second choice would be a Leatherman Tool.
FQ13
-
A p38 can opener on your key ring, is a good tool as well.
Have carried one for 40 years. The original Multi-Tool ... Screw driver, pry bar, chisel, ice scraper and it even opens cans.
-
But, here's a cautionary note on the Buck knives--they are no longer made exclusively in the good old US of A. Walmart made a devil's deal with Buck to purchase x-number of Buck folding hunters IF Buck would reduce the price to something obscenely low. Greed got the better of Buck, they said "yes" and they went to China for production. You can still get a Buck 110 made in the US, just not at Walmart. Look on the hilt of the blade. If it says China, it's junk. Crusader
Good info. I didn't know that. Thanks Crusader. Bill T.
-
Have carried one for 40 years. The original Multi-Tool ... Screw driver, pry bar, chisel, ice scraper and it even opens cans.
+1....except when they get old and loose and you are digging around in your pocket and slice open a finger....then you remember to go to the Army-Navy store for a new one....
Don't ask me how I know.....I just know......and pass the band-aids, please. ;D
-
+1 on a Multi-Tool, Gerber, Kershaw, or other "good" one. Very handy. Cheaper Than dirt also has small BoB kits including fire starters, and those phosphorous "strike with knife" variety.
-
+1....except when they get old and loose and you are digging around in your pocket and slice open a finger....then you remember to go to the Army-Navy store for a new one....
Don't ask me how I know.....I just know......and pass the band-aids, please. ;D
Bought a package of 25 of them way back when...have given a few away and have 16 left.
The dark colored steel ones, not the newer aluminum jobs
-
Just another thought...
Some have touted the multi-tools like Gerber or Leatherman and I think thet deserves some attention.
Leatherman is manufactured by a company that contributes to anti 2A causes, and I tend not to support those kinds of companies. Besides, the older Leatherman opens in such a way that the handles for the pliers are formed by the frame rails of the other blades. That means when you put any stress on the pliers, you are doing it with minimal surface area of the handles, and that hurts the paws. They may have changed that in the newer units, I don't know. The Gerber presents the sides of the frame as the plier handles giving you a larger surface area, and that doesn't hurt when you squeeze. Plus, the Gerber pliers are much stouter.
FWIW
Crusader
By the way, I managed to find the Large Texas Toothpick I was looking for and bought it from a guy on Ebay. Should be here Friday. I'm buying another box of Band-Aids Thursday. ;)
-
Thank You for all the ideas. I have a Cold Steel Master Hunter and a KA-Bar on the way and yes Michael I got two machetes because they're cheap.
Thanks again for the help.
Eric
-
Just another thought...
Some have touted the multi-tools like Gerber or Leatherman and I think thet deserves some attention.
Leatherman is manufactured by a company that contributes to anti 2A causes, and I tend not to support those kinds of companies. Besides, the older Leatherman opens in such a way that the handles for the pliers are formed by the frame rails of the other blades. That means when you put any stress on the pliers, you are doing it with minimal surface area of the handles, and that hurts the paws. They may have changed that in the newer units, I don't know. The Gerber presents the sides of the frame as the plier handles giving you a larger surface area, and that doesn't hurt when you squeeze. Plus, the Gerber pliers are much stouter.
FWIW
Crusader
By the way, I managed to find the Large Texas Toothpick I was looking for and bought it from a guy on Ebay. Should be here Friday. I'm buying another box of Band-Aids Thursday. ;)
Thanks for the reminder CR!
-
Thanks for the reminder CR!
Dittoes (always wanted to say that without gagging, now I can. Thanks M58 ;D). I have a POS Leatherman knockoff I got free from Lowes. I have spent two years hating how cheap and poorly made it was. Still, I wouldn't part with a tool until it failed. (Silly logic I know, but in my defense, I've also turned my nose up at cheap but servicable stuff in favor of the same thing in the "cool" brand, at twice the price). Old age has taught me to err on the side of frugality. Still, now that the thing has busted, my question is this. Does anyone know of a leatherman type product that comes with scissors? They are invaluable for cutting moleskin, tying flies, trimming knots, dealing with hangnails etc. In fact, they are the sole reason I own a swiss army knife (okay, maybe the corkscrew :-[). Still, if any decent leatherman type thing comes with a set, I'll buy (unless its a zillion dollars), I won't spend more than a hundred on a field knife as I treat them all as disposable.
FQ13
-
FQ, Schrade makes a small one that works well.
http://www.pilotestore.com/estore/index.php/43-st2n-cp.html (http://www.pilotestore.com/estore/index.php/43-st2n-cp.html)
-
FQ, while I applaud frugality, sometimes it can be misapplied. Here's what I mean...
Many years ago, I bought a 26'sailboat from an old guy who had wanted to cruise California's coast. His wife hated the boat, so he never got to go cruising. Said he just got too old waiting for her to die, so he decided to sell the boat. Anyway, the boat had a small galley and I mentioned I would go over to K-Mart and buy a cheap set of cookware to keep aboard.
Here's where I get to the point, FQ...
The old guy said, "Son, if you buy quality you only pay once. If you buy cheap, you pay every time you use the thing."
That's guided my purchases of guns and tools for more than 35 years, now.
-
FQ, while I applaud frugality, sometimes it can be misapplied. Here's what I mean...
The old guy said, "Son, if you buy quality you only pay once. If you buy cheap, you pay every time you use the thing."
That's guided my purchases of guns and tools for more than 35 years, now.
There is a major exception to this: Time. That is, if you bought quality skis 20 years ago, while they'll work today, current skis are better. The same is true a lot of things that technology/machines have improved. Guns are an exception to this exception, although I believe that rifles today are more accurate.
-
CR
I've always belived that there two kinds of items we buy. Gear and stuff. Stuff, defined as street clothes, stereo equipment, furniture that I don't sit in much or just holds up the cheap TV, tools I rarely use etc.. I'm shopping at TJ Maxx or Wally World for that stuff. Then there's gear. Hunting, fishing, firearms, rain wear, tents, first aid, cooking equipment that I use everyday, tools I rely on etc. There, my past practice has been to buy the best I can afford and then buy a bit better if I could manage it. Thing is reality has caught up with me. A lot of the stuff that was top of the line ten years ago (and I was and am happy with) is now middle of the road. A $150 pair of Ocean Rays sunglasses bought a decde ago, when that $150 went a lot farther? I can get equivelent performance for $25 from Bass-pro now. The same with my spinning rigs. I used to spend about a $100 per reel and the same on rods. Now shops have stoped repairing them. Unless you're mechanically inclined enough to get into the gears of a ten ball bearing reel (which I am not), then the smart solution is to buy three $60 outfits from Pfleuger instead of one $350 Daiwa/Crowder rig. And guess what? That el cheapo Pfleuger is the same 4 bearing reel that you payed $100 for when it was top of the line from Shimano a decade ago. You were happy with it then, wjy not now?
FQ13 who is firmly of the "buy it once and buy it right" school of thought when it comes to gear that matters or you use everyday. Yet old age and poverty has also taught me that there is a virtue in "good enough for what its for". I am trying to find the balance. I am torn between Filson's (a company I will praise with my dying breath) slogan of "Might as well have the best" and the the more mundane "Do the snook really care what rod you caught them on"? ;)
-
I'm buying a lot of tools and "stuff" from Harbor Freight. All I ever hear is how crappy their "stuff" is. I've yet to have anything break I've bought from them. If I'm buying something for occasional use, it's the first place I look. Their "stuff" costs as little as .30 cents on the dollar compared to "Home Depot quality". If it only lasts half as long, I'm money ahead. Sure I'm helping the Chi-Com economy, but I'm helping mine more. Besides, that whole "buy American" nonsense is meaningless in a global economy. That is what we have, no matter if we like it or not. Bill T.
-
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95563
I bought this model from Harbor Freight more than a year ago. It runs like a top. Cleans cases unbelievably well. Made in China............... Cost $79.99
http://www.hornady.com/store/Lock-N-Load-ultra-Sonic-Cleaner/
Same thing "NEW" from Hornady............Cost $134.12 I'll bet anything it's made in the same place. So much for "buying American". Thanks, but no thanks. I'll let someone else pay for Hornady's packaging and mark up, for what amounts to the same damn thing. "No other cleaning tool on the market even comes close." Sure it does, and at half the price no less. Bill T.
-
Thats about it BillT. If I use it every day, or will be wet, cold, defensless, bleeding or otherwise sorry if it fails, I'll pay premium with a smile and consider it a good deal. Otherwise, Max, Tuesday Morning (a great place for yard tools and serious pro quality kitchen gear, as well as the girly things its known for, BTW. The selection is small, but they get good stuff at absurdly low prices. Its just hit or miss, kind of like a flea market or farm auction, but I got a couple of pro grade Sabatier chefs knives for $20 each (a $100 savings) and a Dewalt 18 volt drill for $35, SCORE!). I mean, I dropped $750 on a well bred bird dog pup without blinking an eye. Likewise $250 on a pair of hiking boots. But $20 is the most I'll pay for a shirt, $30 for a pair of chinos and $15 is my max for jeans. I still get my hair cut at a barber shop where I'm out the door for $15 with a nice tip, and if I won the Powerball tommorow, I still wouldn't replace my eleven year old F-150. Its all about priorities.
FQ13
-
FQ, If they have one of those "Beauty Schools" around you you can get the same haircut for $5 and watch cuties the whole time ;D
OT, I have 3 knives, a Buck 105>is my house knife, peeling potato's, slicing onions or opening ammo cans.
Yes FQ, they do hold an edge better, they may have gone with more wear resistant alloys rather than the "sharper" alloys of other knife makers.
I will comment that Puma Knives take an incredible edge, but they do it by making the blade more brittle .
The other 2 knives do everything else because 1 or both are always with me, A Swiss Army knife with scissors, and a magnifying glass. ;D
the last is a S&W Urban "extreme Ops", I use it for cutting card board . ::)
In my BOB I have a hand forged Trail Axe by Snowe & Nealy of Maine.
I own other knives but those are the ones I live with, and I've been using the Buck for at least 25 years now.
Now for a question.
Does any one have any experience with these "Ceramic" blades ? They are supposed to hold an edge forever, but I would think they would be brittle ?
-
Now for a question.
Does any one have any experience with these "Ceramic" blades ? They are supposed to hold an edge forever, but I would think they would be brittle ?
They are as sharp as our wit Tom. ;D ;D ;D :P No BS, they hold an edge and will slice a tomato (my ultimate, "how sharp is your knife" challenge), as well as my my Buck, Solingen, or Sabatiers. Downside? My great Aunt, whose one and only ceramic knife I used for this post had one. She dropped it on her tile kitchen floor. Maybe it just landed exactly wrong, but still, it was in three large and a few small pieces. Nice for the kitchen maybe, but not for the bugout bag. Even in the kitchen. I could have dropped any of my knives and suffered no more than a bent edge or a punctured foot if it landed exactly wrong. My unscientific survey of exactly one example says no. Buy good steel. Its as sharp as you are willing to make it and it won't break. Just my .02.
FQ13
-
They are as sharp as our wit Tom. ;D ;D ;D :P No BS, they hold an edge and will slice a tomato (my ultimate, "how sharp is your knife" challenge), as well as my my Buck, Solingen, or Sabatiers. Downside? My great Aunt, whose one and only ceramic knife I used for this post had one. She dropped it on her tile kitchen floor. Maybe it just landed exactly wrong, but still, it was in three large and a few small pieces. Nice for the kitchen maybe, but not for the bugout bag. Even in the kitchen. I could have dropped any of my knives and suffered no more than a bent edge or a punctured foot if it landed exactly wrong. My unscientific survey of exactly one example says no. Buy good steel. Its as sharp as you are willing to make it and it won't break. Just my .02.
FQ13
I've been thinking that way ever since Boker first sold theirs back in the 70'sand 80's.
Years ago my Dad brought home some dishes, He says look, their unbreakable, and gave it a whack on the table.
I turned one over and it snapped in half when it hit the table ;D
-
Now for a question.
Does any one have any experience with these "Ceramic" blades ? They are supposed to hold an edge forever, but I would think they would be brittle ?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=98186
Melanie wanted to try one, so she bought this one the last time we went to Harbor Freight. The thing is unbelievably sharp, and stays that way! The ceramic that is used in these things is pretty much all the same so don't pay a ton for one. I've seen them in cutlery shops in the malls going for $85.00 and higher. As was said, the downside is they are brittle, and will crack or even shatter if dropped on a hard surface. Bill T.
-
Now for a question.
Does any one have any experience with these "Ceramic" blades ? They are supposed to hold an edge forever, but I would think they would be brittle ?
As has been said, they are extremely sharp. I bought 3 sizes of Boker's kitchen knives and love them They are brittle however and a drop will lose the tip if not worse. Still work fine without the tip and that is all that I have lost.
They warn that they are brittle and mention things not to do with them including not scraping stuff from your wood cutting board and not cutting meat from bone.
When I read this I thought that they were so brittle that the vibrations from scraping would damage them but this not the case. If used that way on wood or bone, they will shave very thing slivers of bone or wood and you won't know you are cutting it.
I would cut cocktail shrimp at the tail by sliding a steel knife along the shrimp till it stopped at the tail and then cut. When I first got the ceramics, I did the same thing and noticed a pink ring around the shrimp pieces at the cut. When I checked I found it was a small ring of the shrimp shell. It seems that both the steel and ceramic knives would ride up onto that edge of the shell but when I cut the steel knives would slip off and cut only shrimp where the ceramic would cut through the shell with no effort.
I carry the Boker ceramic pocket knife and have ruined one blade by scoring and cutting through beer bottles, wine glasses and wine bottles...was stupid, but amazed the crowd.... I paid for it by getting a replacement.
-
I have seen some less expensive folding knives in the MSC tool catalog, I think I'll order one or 2 and beat them, then post a report.
;D
-
Everyone,
Without sounding sappy I just wanted to let everyone know what a great resource it is to be able to draw from the collective experience of everyone on the forums. It allows people like me with relative little experience to learn from everyone and not have to learn so many things the expensive (hard) way. Thanks for all the input and guidance.
Eric
-
Quality is quality.....no matter what the price tag says. It pays to inspect your purchases closely....
-
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=98186
Melanie wanted to try one, so she bought this one the last time we went to Harbor Freight. The thing is unbelievably sharp, and stays that way! The ceramic that is used in these things is pretty much all the same so don't pay a ton for one. I've seen them in cutlery shops in the malls going for $85.00 and higher. As was said, the downside is they are brittle, and will crack or even shatter if dropped on a hard surface. Bill T.
Well Bill, based on your recommendation I picked up one of these at Harbor Freight today.......
-
I keep to ready bags, one in my truck and one at home. The two big blades are first an Ontario fighting knife the other is a S&W homeland security. I also keep two smaller knives and both are swiss army.
-
I'm buying a lot of tools and "stuff" from Harbor Freight. All I ever hear is how crappy their "stuff" is. I've yet to have anything break I've bought from them. If I'm buying something for occasional use, it's the first place I look. Their "stuff" costs as little as .30 cents on the dollar compared to "Home Depot quality". If it only lasts half as long, I'm money ahead. Sure I'm helping the Chi-Com economy, but I'm helping mine more. Besides, that whole "buy American" nonsense is meaningless in a global economy. That is what we have, no matter if we like it or not. Bill T.
I've never had anything from them that didn't break. I bought a 10 lb sledge from them several years back to bust out a footing, One of those deals, need one and it was right around the corner, figured I'd save some time...on the second swing the head broke, it just shatterd.
on the money ahead deal, when you count your time and agravation when it breaks, your well behind...
about the only thing I buy from HF is thier cheap spray guns. I use them to spray catlized primers and things like gel coat. Then throw them away. I'm going to be sanding them anyways.
-
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_FE4FSZBTlr8/S8XwtDJ4tUI/AAAAAAAAASM/XcNHMboO5l8/s1600/zubeh%C3%B6r.jpg)
You might consider an Ontario RAT 3. It’s small enough to be carried as an EDC fixed blade on your Person. Still big enough to be used as an emergency self defenses tool. It’s carbon still is easy to resharpen and will hold a good edge for a long time. The coating will deal with a lot of abuse and the thick spine of the blade will allow you to spite wood and even dig with it. The extras Ontario throws in will allow you to carry it concealed IWB, on your belt or sling it to your pack with some Paracord. Although thick and solid the blade is still perfect for food preparation like cutting vegetables or even skin game. The hacking capacities are limited, because of the size and weight but it will allow you to chop through branches and bushes and prepare most of the stuff you need for an emergency shelter. The RAT 3 is a real workhorse. I’m using it as a hiking blade on a regular base. It doubles as my primary self defense tool (I’m not allowed to carry my gun here in Germany) and camp/survival knife.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_FE4FSZBTlr8/S8XxmhvKSpI/AAAAAAAAASk/POeGF_GM9N0/s1600/ratzwiebel.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_FE4FSZBTlr8/S8XxeV6H_BI/AAAAAAAAASc/uqQ4O2kc8jQ/s1600/rat3.jpg)
-
Really this thread to me says what is one knife you trust to be effective in most applications, easy to sharpen, and durable. I have a spyderco Military that I have been carrying now for about 8 months. I have found that this knife is highly useful. It is a bit large with a blade at 4 inches, but is surprisingly versatile. Its big enough for easy protection in an "oh shit" situation. Yet small and delicate enough for cleaning small game. ( And I am sure larger game as well.)
I also have to agree with the RAT-3. That is one hell of a knife.
-
Well Bill, based on your recommendation I picked up one of these at Harbor Freight today.......
For $20.00 it's not a bad knife at all. Melanie uses hers every day and so far so good. Price doesn't always determine quality. Example: I bought a couple of these machete's from Harbor freight,
http://www.harborfreight.com/18-inch-machete-with-nylon-sheath-94154.html
They work great for chopping palm leaves and stalks into small pieces so they'll fit into the trash. I even got them on sale for $4.99 each. About a year ago I bought this machete from Cabela's,
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0058753518589a&type=product&cmCat=SEARCH_all&returnPage=search-results1.jsp&Ntk=Products&QueryText=machete&sort=all&Go.y=7&N=0&Nty=1&hasJS=true&_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1&Go.x=15&_DARGS=%2Fcabelas%2Fen%2Fcommon%2Fsearch%2Fsearch-box.jsp.form23
It was a $25.00 POS that broke the first time I used it because it doesn't have a full tang. It cracked right at the mid section of the handle. The $5 special from Harbor Freight is far better. Bill T.