The Down Range Forum
Member Section => Tactical Rifle & Carbine => Topic started by: twyacht on April 13, 2010, 08:26:02 PM
-
A co-worker inherited a Marlin 336CS Micro-Groove Bore 30/30 Lever Action, that was his elderly Uncle's, and has sat in a South Florida closet for 20years. It is "pot marked" with minor rust spots, but the action remains smooth, the rifle is not abused, but simply neglected. Anyone know what the 'CS" stands for?
Either way, I removed the stock, and gave it to Scott cause he is better with wood. I have wiped it all down and am soaking it with Aero-Kroil, and Marvel Mystery Oil. after, I intend to use Brake Fluid, and 0000 Steel Wool to remove the spots. There is some minor pitting but it is sporadic. The barrel looks like "dust bunnies" have invaded it, but will get to that in time.
There is a working rifle under the neglect and punishment of humid Florida closets, it is never going to be a show piece, but it is solid enough to restore to shooting condition.
Any and all tips are greatly appreciated. Just in the little bit of time "oiling and fondling", it is "telling me"; "I'm Still Alive"...
I'll get the pics up. With before and afters,......
If anyone knows what the "CS" stands for, that would be great. I am generally estimating the rifle's age at mid 70's to mid 80's, but will try to find out more as she gets cleaned up.
Pics to follow shortly. I figured with Marlin closing shop to move to the Remington facility, I could bring one back.
Thank you,
I am having some issues with my upload pics to photobucket right now, but will get some ASAP.
Here's pics:
(http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm182/twyacht/Marlin336CS001.jpg)
(http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm182/twyacht/Marlin336CS003.jpg)
(http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm182/twyacht/Marlin336CS004.jpg)
(http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm182/twyacht/Marlin336CS002.jpg)
(http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm182/twyacht/Marlin336CS005.jpg)
Thanks for the info on the CS, it has already started to improve, with Kroil, Marvel Mystery Oil, air, and TLC, I'll have some shots of the progress coming these are before I did anything.
-
I'm not sure of what the letters themselves stand for, but I believe the "CS" designated rifles were a lower cost version of the 336 that didn't have quite as much metal handwork, and were equipped with Birch stocks instead of Walnut. There were more commonly sold through the bigger, mega retailers like Wal-Mart, Service Merchandise, and the chain sporting goods outlets like Big 5, The Sports Authority, and Dick's Sporting Goods. All parts interchange with the standard 336's. The "CS" models were to Marlin what the "Vanguard" models are to Weatherby. A good, but lower priced option. Bill T.
-
Thanks billt, I had my suspicions, but didn't know for sure. I bought a Winchester 1894-1994 Anniversary from a Wal-mart in NC in 94, but it was not changed or modified in anyway for the Wally World Retail...via stamping or box, etc,...
I know Marlin wanted a to take a piece of the 30/30 market from Winchester for decades, now both have been "bought out" and relocated....... :-[
Thank you.
tw
-
I think it was cooler when Stores had their own brands , Like Sears, and Western Auto.
-
I have an old "Western Field" .22 BA rifle that was sold at Western Auto.
-
Found this:
Marlin - 336 S C - 35 REM - 20 Inch - Blue - H7462 -
Stamped on the barrel is a JM with a circle around it I recently inherited this weapon from a deceased uncle. I was wondering how old and any history you may have on this rifle.
Answer:
Brian, my records indicate that your Marlin 336SC was manufactured in 1951. "SC" stands for "Sporting Carbine". The model 336SC was manufactured from 1949 to 1963, it is similar to Model 336A, except that it has a shorter 20 inch barrel and comes with a 2/3 length magazine tube. The circle "JM" stamping that you describe is a Marlin proof mark that has been used on Marlin firearms since 1889, "JM" stands for John Marlin. Marlin 336SC values are in the $100 - $250 range depending on condition. Marc
-
I think he said it was a "CS" model, not "SC"? Bill T.
-
I think he said it was a "CS" model, not "SC"? Bill T.
ooops...
Well I found this too.
Q: OK, I just bought a cherry Marlin 30-30 336cs for $250. Can anyone tell me how the cs model varies from others?
A: CS was the delux model with a checkered walnut stock and grip cap, I forget what the CS actually stood for. It was discontinued a few years ago when the 336C was introduced. Te SN is on the top tang behind the trigger.
A: My findings are:
C stands for carbine,A is for rifle, RC is a regular carbine, CS was the designation of the rifle with the cross bolt safety, SC has the short magazine.
A: According to the Blue Book, 336CS production began in 1984. Only in 1994 did checkering become standard. When you look up the serial number you may find that you have one from those first 10 years of production, or your stock was replaced with one from that era.
-
When in doubt, Google it! CS stands for Carbine w/Cross Bolt Safety. My old 336 is an SC, the Sporting carbine with the shortened cartridge tube but the standard half-cock safety and black walnut two-piece stock. Sweet! I'm no Marlin expert, so equally confused with their letter designators.
-
You're right. I had "CS" confused with "AS". The "AS" models were the birch stocked, cheaper Marlin Lever guns. I just checked my Marlin 39-A and it is a "CS" Model with the cross bolt safety. Sorry. Bill T.
-
A couple years ago shortly before deer season a kid came into a sporting goods store while I was there. He wanted to sell a used rifle back to the store or trade it back on a used shotgun. The kid started to pull it out of the soft case it was in and the clerk started to treat the kid badly saying they don't take stuff back. I saw that it was a lever gun of some kind and asked the kid what he had. It was a Marlin 30AS in 30-30. It looked as if it was put away wet and was speckeled with rust spots. Nothing deep, just surface. As the area where I hunt, can have some very foul weather I was kind of looking for either an all weather gun, or a beater. I asked the kid what he wanted for it and $75 and a fuss from the store clerk who suddenly became interested in it, I had my beater.
I took it home and cleaned it up pretty well with oil and bronze wool. It cleaned up real well I thought. At deer camp that year, we had some foul weather and took that one to the field that day. I figured that if the weather got to it, I didn't have much into it dollar wise. Even though I thought I had it cleaned up and oiled well, the damp weather really attacked it. I could almost watch it turn orange. It cleans up again, but doesn't seem to last. Any ideas what I can do to keep it cleaned up, or does it need to be reblued? Even though I don't have many dollars in it, it still pains me to see rust more when it is damp.
-
I have never reblued an entire gun with it, but I just bought some Oxpho-Blue cold bluing liquid from Brownell's. I use it to reblue the inside of my scope rings after I'm finished lapping them. I figure it just helps prevent rusting by not leaving any bare metal exposed.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1072/Product/OXPHO_BLUE_reg_
The stuff really works fast, and gives the metal a deep blued finish. You could try it on a small part, like perhaps the lever and see how you like it. Another thing would be to keep a high viscosity oil, or even a light grease on the metal before you go out on a hunt. Cosmoline is good as well. You can heat it and it becomes liquid, then using a piece of terrycloth wipe a thin layer on it. You can always remove it after you're finished. Bill T.
-
For a corrosion inhibitor, there a good many that work. My favorites are FP10, Corrosion x, Kroil, Rem oil, and Birchwood Casey sheath. The last comes in foil packets like glasses cleaners, I always have a few of those with me, for when I get caught in a rainy situation, and wipe the firearm down as soon as possible, it has saved my bacon more than once. Of the above, I like FP10 the most, as it protects and LUBRICATES WELL, Rem oil does a good job of both, but Corrosion X and Kroil protect well, but don't lubricate at all. With any of the above, I wipe it on liberally by hand, then wipe off with a clean dry cloth.
-
Pics are back on the top of the thread.
Thanks again for all the info.
-
A couple years ago shortly before deer season a kid came into a sporting goods store while I was there. He wanted to sell a used rifle back to the store or trade it back on a used shotgun. The kid started to pull it out of the soft case it was in and the clerk started to treat the kid badly saying they don't take stuff back. I saw that it was a lever gun of some kind and asked the kid what he had. It was a Marlin 30AS in 30-30. It looked as if it was put away wet and was speckeled with rust spots. Nothing deep, just surface. As the area where I hunt, can have some very foul weather I was kind of looking for either an all weather gun, or a beater. I asked the kid what he wanted for it and $75 and a fuss from the store clerk who suddenly became interested in it, I had my beater.
I took it home and cleaned it up pretty well with oil and bronze wool. It cleaned up real well I thought. At deer camp that year, we had some foul weather and took that one to the field that day. I figured that if the weather got to it, I didn't have much into it dollar wise. Even though I thought I had it cleaned up and oiled well, the damp weather really attacked it. I could almost watch it turn orange. It cleans up again, but doesn't seem to last. Any ideas what I can do to keep it cleaned up, or does it need to be reblued? Even though I don't have many dollars in it, it still pains me to see rust more when it is damp.
Blackwolfe, have you considered having it parkerized or coated with something like Dura-Coat or Gun-Kote?
I have good friend who bought a 'beater' pump shotgun that was good on the inside, but a pig on the outside. He disassembled it, and bought a parkerizing kit from Brownells and did it himself. Then, he sprayed it with a coat of stainless colored Gun-Kote.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1150/Product/GUN_KOTE_trade__OVEN_CURE__GUN_FINISH
-
My pawn shop 336RC is in similar shape to TW's charity gun. Receiver is not rusted, but a former owner etched some letters and numbers into the left side of the receiver. Barrel and magazine tube are lightly pitted.
Blackwolfe, I called Marlin about re-bluing (this rifle is minted 1948 - the very first year for the 336, so I wanted a factory job done), but they are not re-bluing at this time. The guy I talked to suggested I call back at the end of April to see if the re-blueing was back on the schedule. I'm going to follow M25's suggestions and keep the barrel and tube well coated with lubes and see if that will slow any further rust. Mine doesn't leave the safe for now, OK, maybe to a range shortly for some fun, but only on a nice day and then right back to the safe. Since yours goes orange so quickly, I would listen to M25 until a more permanent solution can be found.
-
I have never reblued an entire gun with it, but I just bought some Oxpho-Blue cold bluing liquid from Brownell's. I use it to reblue the inside of my scope rings after I'm finished lapping them. I figure it just helps prevent rusting by not leaving any bare metal exposed.
I have done several complete guns with Oxpho-Blue and really like it.
Here are before and after pics of a Win 9422 that I did a couple years ago. It was really rough when I got it.
-
Nice work.
-
I'm going to start another thread on metal refinishing.
-
I'm going to start another thread on metal refinishing.
Good. I was wondering what to do before I try to re-blue or have it re-blued. Cover Prep 101, would'ya? Thx
-
I have done several complete guns with Oxpho-Blue and really like it.
Here are before and after pics of a Win 9422 that I did a couple years ago. It was really rough when I got it.
That's a real nice job David!
-
Great job David, I really like it.
-
Thanks for all the replys, didn't mean to pirate the thread. David, the Win 9422 looks good.
Peg, I have been thinking of Parkerizing it. It is the cheaper AS model so it is nothing special as far as original collector value. The birch forearm has a little figure in it. I have a beatup Remington 870 Wingmaster I could Park too.
-
Don't worry about pirating a thread, anything this forum has to offer regarding restoring, refurbishing, and bringing another firearm back to life is well worth it.
Cut the barrel off that Wingmaster, and give it the Urban Defender Treatment..... 8)
-
It was a cop car gun and has a 2 shot magazine extension on it, otherwise I would consider cutting the barrel down. I did see a old Winchester Model 12 with an original matching numbered, short, cylinder bore, barrel for sale at a gun shop the other day. It caught my attention until I saw the price. It had a lot of wear on it and a few nicks and dings and I personally thought they were asking a lot more for it than it was worth.