The Down Range Forum
Member Section => Tactical Rifle & Carbine => Topic started by: twyacht on April 17, 2010, 11:47:23 AM
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Initial Prognosis is good. At least when I wipe it down, it's not black and orange anymore.
After removing the front sight, magazine tube,, OOOO Steel Wool (ing) the crap out of it, the rust is gone, but the worst of the pitting is on the receiver, it is now a silver bare metal. This is after a couple of hours.
(http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm182/twyacht/MarlinAfter001.jpg)
(http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm182/twyacht/MarlinAfter003.jpg)
Action is still very smooth, safety, trigger, and bolt cycling is very solid. Especially after getting the hairballs out of the action,.. :P
(http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm182/twyacht/MarlinAfter005.jpg)
(http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm182/twyacht/MarlinAfter004.jpg)
(http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm182/twyacht/MarlinAfter002.jpg)
I'm still tinkering with it, according to Scott, the stock is really looking better after getting some type of "sealant" off of it.
I told him all the options available, (which I of course got from the DRTV Collective Brain Trust),. ;D and if he wants to pursue a refinish, it is a viable candidate.
Thanks again for all the info, when the furniture goes back on, I'll get one or two more pics.
tw
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It looks like you are having fun. How's the elbow?
I use a flat file to remove deep pitting on flat surfaces like receivers, then several grades of emery cloth and then OO and finally OOOO steel wool, not sure how far you want to go, but it is possible to greatly reduce the amount of pitting. You have to be careful but the effort is usually worth it.
I become attached to the ones that I spend a lot of time with.
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It looks like you are having fun. How's the elbow?
I had to get to the 12 oz curl variety for physical therapy ;) emery cloth sounds like a great idea, even 00, I went with 0000 to be gentle, but now that I have knocked off the heavy, I think that's a great idea.
Thank you.
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Looking good, so far, TW.
Also, when using emery cloth on the barrel and tube, cut it into 1" wide strips, the length of the sheets.....or, you can go to Lowe's and see if they have the emery cloth rolls that are 1" wide by 25' long. Then you can use the old shoe-shine motion to gently buff the pitting while maintaining the contour of the barrel. You'd be surprised how quickly flat spots show on a barrel when re-blued.
I did a single-shot shotgun for a friend and started with 300 grit, then 600 grit, and finally 1000 grit for a super slick finish.
Continued good luck on the project....I'm anxious to see the finished product. :D
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Has any one tried "ScotchBrite" pads They come in varying textures ?
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Has any one tried "ScotchBrite" pads They come in varying textures ?
I've used the 'red' and 'green' ScothBrite pads on gun stocks and furniture before. Haven't tried it on steel.
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I use red to deburr my parts at work I take the actual burr with 320 grit emery cloth then wipe that 3 or 4 times with the Scotch bright to polish out the sanding marks.
The brown is courser and the finest is white, the only thing I've used green on is dishes ;D
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I use red to deburr my parts at work I take the actual burr with 320 grit emery cloth then wipe that 3 or 4 times with the Scotch bright to polish out the sanding marks.
The brown is courser and the finest is white, the only thing I've used green on is dishes ;D
We used the industrial pads to buff carbon marks out of aluminum before anodizing or paint sometimes. The brown you mentioned is probably what we were calling red. Our tool &die department used the emery cloth rolls to polish dies.
Auto body stores are good places to find metal surface prep supplies.
http://www.azautobodysupply.com/scpr.html
Eastwood is one of the best places to find about anything related to metal finishing.
http://www.eastwood.com/
http://www.eastwood.com/rust-solutions/removal.html
http://www.eastwood.com/ew-rust-dissolver-gallon.html
I just usually go to AutoZone or another local shop.
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No this is a definite Brown, and the red I use is kind of Maroon color.
Thanks for the links.
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Looking good TW.
TW, I forget, are you looking to reblue, or a spray on finish? If a spray on finish, you maybe able to fill with JB Weld or something, sand and polish to match the surface and then spray. I think I have read of people doing that before.
I have heard of guys using the Scotch brite pads on Stainless guns before. I think both to shine them up or to put a bit of a brushed looking finish depending on the look desired and the coarsness of the pad.
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Actually, scotch bright is what I would use on the pits, I keep a red/maroon scotch bright wheel on my grinder, I think it is only 1600 rpm. When removing semi deep pits, really any pit, use and X motion and go lightly, whether with a power tool or my hand, it is less likely to show a flat spot as it blends into the good metal around the pit. I keep a separate grinder motor fitted with a 6" felt wheel, for polishing with different compounds. That action would also look great with a bead blast finish, followed by phosphate or cold blue finish.
A word of warning, glass beads and most blasting media, gets into everything, and can be very difficult to remove. I use modeling clay to plug holes both great and small, especially that big ejection port. I keep various sized natural cork and rubber cone shaped plugs, to plug muzzles and chambers, both to keep things out, and to keep things like bore solvent in, where you might fill the barrel up completely for a badly neglected/fouled barrel.
Keep going TW, I'm sure it is going to look great.
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Thanks m25, and others, I gave it back to Scott, who has refinished the furniture, and is putting it back together. I also gave a box of ammo, Remington Core-Lokt, 170 gr. SP.
He is going to have it redone one day, but just wanted to see if it was worth it to do so. I told him it certainly is, and is a keeper.
Were going to shoot it, along with my Winchester 94, next range trip, and should have pics of the re-assembled rifle in the next day or two.
Thanks again for all the knowledge, tips and tricks.