The Down Range Forum
Member Section => Tactical Rifle & Carbine => Topic started by: billt on August 18, 2010, 06:48:18 PM
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This is how everything looked straight out of the box. I'm very pleased! Especially after I came from Cabela's this morning and saw the chewed up tomato stake they had on the rack for $149.00. These rifles are beautiful! Both are Tula manufactured Hex Receiver guns. One is a 1931 date, the other is a 1936. Both actions work very slick! If you're looking for a nice Mosin for the price, Classic Arms is the way to go. As you can see, even the bayonets and accessories are in mint condition. Bill T.
(http://i812.photobucket.com/albums/zz50/billt460/MosinNagant91-30Rifles017.jpg)
(http://i812.photobucket.com/albums/zz50/billt460/MosinNagant91-30Rifles016.jpg)
(http://i812.photobucket.com/albums/zz50/billt460/MosinNagant91-30Rifles015.jpg)
(http://i812.photobucket.com/albums/zz50/billt460/MosinNagant91-30Rifles014.jpg)
(http://i812.photobucket.com/albums/zz50/billt460/MosinNagant91-30Rifles013.jpg)
(http://i812.photobucket.com/albums/zz50/billt460/MosinNagant91-30Rifles011.jpg)
(http://i812.photobucket.com/albums/zz50/billt460/MosinNagant91-30Rifles012.jpg)
(http://i812.photobucket.com/albums/zz50/billt460/MosinNagant91-30Rifles010.jpg)
(http://i812.photobucket.com/albums/zz50/billt460/MosinNagant91-30Rifles009.jpg)
(http://i812.photobucket.com/albums/zz50/billt460/MosinNagant91-30Rifles008.jpg)
(http://i812.photobucket.com/albums/zz50/billt460/MosinNagant91-30Rifles007.jpg)
(http://i812.photobucket.com/albums/zz50/billt460/MosinNagant91-30Rifles006.jpg)
(http://i812.photobucket.com/albums/zz50/billt460/MosinNagant91-30Rifles005.jpg)
(http://i812.photobucket.com/albums/zz50/billt460/MosinNagant91-30Rifles004.jpg)
(http://i812.photobucket.com/albums/zz50/billt460/MosinNagant91-30Rifles003.jpg)
(http://i812.photobucket.com/albums/zz50/billt460/MosinNagant91-30Rifles002.jpg)
(http://i812.photobucket.com/albums/zz50/billt460/MosinNagant91-30Rifles001.jpg)
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Ain't they a pair.... ;D Piece of history billt, nice addition to your extensive, over the top, way too many, how many? collection.... ;)
Seems we have joined the Moisin brigade, and by the thumbs up experience I had with deepwaters, and mine when I get to the range, is a good thing.
Nice "package". get some stripper "clips" and enjoy.
Note: you have less cosmoline than I did... 8)
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Way to go Bill. You did well. You need a pair of M38's and M44's to go with the 91/30's
The Tula's generally have much better machining than some of the others. Also I've noticed much thicker walled barrels on the Tula's that I've cut the barrels on.
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Those are some fine looking rifles Bill. The accessories alone makes them a steal.
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Couldn't help myself: A Moisin with a kid and his Dad, against an evil watermelon.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tIfztUly2Vc&feature=related
;D
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Nice pick up. And damn, those bayonets are long. do they put the eye out of the 25 yard target or is it just me? :D
FQ13
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And I've heard grown men on this forum crying about the hard kicking mosins!!!!!!!!!
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Note: you have less cosmoline than I did... 8)
I wish I could have captured the aromatic smell after I opened the boxes. Something about the smell of Cosmoline with the added odor of shellac to suggest just the right amount of Olga's toenails were added to the mix for that beautiful sheen. The whole house smells like a WW II weapons depot! Bill T.
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I love Olga, and her "man hands",....she built a nice rugged rifle. ::)
I have to get a video of my shooter friends that "complain" about my Mauser's kick, and than post a pic of my smiling son after he shot a 10 ring with deepwaters Moisin...all 5 times....
Just like the kid in the vid, "dead watermelon" is the result. ;)
I didn't get the "kit" , but they are readily available next gun show.
+2 billt, Amazing what you can still get, thankfully.... It will put meat on the table if so inclined, and works on zombies to 200 yds.
and their contagious.... ;D
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Oh, so envious. Nice purchase
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Where can I get a bushel basket of stripper clips? Bill T.
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Bill, you do need to invest in ammo.....
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Where can I get a bushel basket of stripper clips? Bill T.
I wish I knew...... I've bought some on ebay, but not real happy with them.
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Bill, you do need to invest in ammo.....
Yes, by all means. That is next. I'll have to make the trip up to Prescott to J&G sales as soon as it cools off. They got pretty good prices on 7.62 X 54 MM.
http://www.jgsales.com/product_info.php/ammo-for-rifles/7-62x54r/p/7-62x54r-bulgarian-light-ball-fmj-ammo%2C-steel-case%2C-440-rd-tins-/cPath/12_42/products_id/1789
$90.00 for a 440 round sealed tin of Bulgarian in quantity.
http://www.jgsales.com/product_info.php/ammo-for-rifles/7-62x54r/p/7-62x54r-comm-bloc-light-ball-fmj-ammo%2C-steel-case%2C-440-rd-tins-/cPath/12_42/products_id/4431
They also have the Com Bloc even cheaper. $82.50 per 440 in quantity.
What is your cleaning method after pouring a ton of corrosive downrange? Another question: Are the stripper clips foolproof, or can you insert them inverted causing the rims to interfere with each other. This gets a bit tricky with Enfield stripper clips. I know the 7.62 X 54 MM is a rimmed cartridge, so you've got to watch how you load both the stripper clip, and the rifle. Bill T.
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All the good and appropriate stuff has been said, so let me take this thread to the basement ...
What's with the 'Bama jammies :o
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Yes, by all means. That is next. I'll have to make the trip up to Prescott to J&G sales as soon as it cools off. They got pretty good prices on 7.62 X 54 MM.
http://www.jgsales.com/product_info.php/ammo-for-rifles/7-62x54r/p/7-62x54r-bulgarian-light-ball-fmj-ammo%2C-steel-case%2C-440-rd-tins-/cPath/12_42/products_id/1789
$90.00 for a 440 round sealed tin of Bulgarian in quantity. What is your cleaning method after pouring a ton of corrosive downrange? Another question: Are the stripper clips foolproof, or can you insert them inverted causing the rims to interfere with each other. This gets a bit tricky with Enfield stripper clips. I know the 7.62 X 54 MM is a rimmed cartridge, so you've got to watch how you load both the stripper clip, and the rifle. Bill T.
No, you do have to watch how you load them as the rims will catch. I have always been careful and not had any problems but i prefer to just load the rounds individually.
I have seen other people not be able to get it right and get very frustrated. They don't comprehend the simple concept that the top round has to be ahead of the one below it.
For cleaning the bore I spray glass cleaner with ammonia down it, let it soak for a minute, then clean and lube like you would any other.
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All the good and appropriate stuff has been said, so let me take this thread to the basement ...
What's with the 'Bama jammies :o
They're my favorites ! ;D Bill T.
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Product ID: AM1649
7.62x54R (149 GR.)
Egypt mfr. Berdan primed,
corrosive, brass case, FMJ.
50 rds./box.
*Price per box.
Price: $10.87
I really like this brass cased ammo from Century. Free shipping on orders over $500 so I always order a few more Mosins with the ammo.
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SWEET X 2 !!!
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What is your cleaning method after pouring a ton of corrosive downrange? Another question: Are the stripper clips foolproof, or can you insert them inverted causing the rims to interfere with each other.
Hoppe's No. 9, and a lot of it...Originally designed for corrosive ammo, it dissolves the "crud" mui pronto. Oil to finish. swabs will be black to green than clear.
Stripper clips for my Mauser are rudimentary. the rifle was constructed to insert, use thumb, and vertically push all five rounds straight down.
The genius of the design , for both Mausers, Mannlichers, Moisins, is their ability to feed because of the bolt. They go into the mag well, which is just wide enough to allow a "staggered" feed, which the bolt, and huge Mauser copied claw, grab and load, than extract.
Keep it simple stupid was the plan, it still works, and it's foolproof.
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What is your cleaning method after pouring a ton of corrosive downrange? Another question: Are the stripper clips foolproof, or can you insert them inverted causing the rims to interfere with each other.
Hoppe's No. 9, and a lot of it...Originally designed for corrosive ammo, it dissolves the "crud" mui pronto. Oil to finish. swabs will be black to green than clear.
Stripper clips for my Mauser are rudimentary. the rifle was constructed to insert, use thumb, and vertically push all five rounds straight down.
The genius of the design , for both Mausers, Mannlichers, Moisins, is their ability to feed because of the bolt. They go into the mag well, which is just wide enough to allow a "staggered" feed, which the bolt, and huge Mauser copied claw, grab and load, than extract.
Keep it simple stupid was the plan, it still works, and it's foolproof.
You have not seen the people I have to deal with....... number one issue they have is loading wrong. Mosins have an interrupter to prevent rims catching but it didn't make it fool proof.
#2 is a dirty chamber and the steel cased shells will start to bind after heavy shooting and they can't open the bolt without a struggle. Brass cased seems to eliminate this issue as its more forgiving.
I had to help one guy that was actually forcing the round into the magazine ahead of the stripper clip/rim slot. Not sure how he did it, but he did.
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What really amazes me about a lot of these older military rifles like these and Mausers is the machining. You have to realize they had no CNC back then. Everything was cranked by hand. No ball screws, all the machines had backlash. When you look at the tangent rear sight, that changing radius had to be cut all manually, and it had to be right or the sight would be worthless. All had to be the same. Exactly the same. Thousands of rifles. Also they had no Carbide cutting tools. I don't think they even had Stellite back in the 20's and 30's, especially in Russia. It's amazing how well these weapons were made. Now it seems every new model gets recalled for something or other. Bill T.
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I wish I could have captured the aromatic smell after I opened the boxes. Something about the smell of Cosmoline with the added odor of shellac to suggest just the right amount of Olga's toenails were added to the mix for that beautiful sheen. The whole house smells like a WW II weapons depot! Bill T.
Now we know Mel's secrets. If she wants to get your attention she dabs a little cosmoline behind her ear? ;D
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What lookers they are!! 8) Great additions!!
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Good info on cleaning after using corrosive ammo:
http://www.empirearms.com/clean.htm
How to properly clean after using corrosive ammo
This is how I do it... it's easy, it's fast, and it's effective. Best of all you can do it while still on the firing-line and thus not offend your significant other with the usually pungent stench of commercial cleaners in your home.
Dilute regular household ammonia (sudsy is best but regular is OK too) to 2/1 or 3/1 with water (it can be as much as 10/1 if the smell really gets to you). Keep in a small bottle to take with you to the range but label it well so you don't mistake it for contact-lens solution or something (yeeeowww!)
After you are done firing and while still at the range moisten (not dripping-wet, but sorta-soaked) a patch and run it down the bore and back once. This instantly will neutralize and dissolve the corrosive salt-compounds from the primers and start in on the copper and powder fouling with a vengeance.
Let stand for thirty seconds or so (just enough time to take off and throw away the ammonia-patch you just used and put a new, dry patch on your rod). Run the dry patch (or several) down the bore and you are most literally done.
DON'T OVERDO IT! More ISN'T better in this case...
You really don't want to slop ammonia (especially if heavily concentrated) all over the blued parts of the gun (as it will likely start to remove bluing after 30 minutes or so) and you also shouldn't leave the ammonia in the bore for an extended period of time (like hours, although I do know folks who do that anyway) as that may (not WILL, but MAY) cause "crazing" (microscopic pitting) of the metal. I also have to caution against slopping ammonia on the wooden parts of your rifle, as it will usually strip the finish down to bare-wood, BUT if you follow my advise on HOW MUCH ammonia to use (only enough to dampen, but not soak, a single patch per gun) you will not EVER experience ANY problems at all...
If you are worried about primer residue getting on the bolt-face you may want to quickly wipe it with the wet patch before throwing the thing away and quickly dry it. Same thing with the gas-tube in a semi-automatic rifle... don't go overboard, just wet it and dry it and get done with it.
As a final precaution (since the ammonia will also kill all lubricants and leave the metal very dry) you can run a patch of gun-oil down the bore and leave it like that for protection from the elements (just be sure to run a dry patch down the bore before shooting it again).
I've been cleaning guns this way (including *every* gun we sell) for nearly thirty years, and have never had rust form in any bore (even here in humid Florida).
However, if you are (like some folks I have met) completely obsessed about leaving traces of ANY powder or copper residue in the bore of your weapon, you can certainly follow up your "field-cleaning" with a detailed, strenuous, traditional cleaning once you are home (or in a week or month from then). But I warn you... your bore is much more be likely to be damaged from your over-enthusiastic scrubbing to get out that "last speck of copper" (which has no affect on the actual accuracy of your firearm) than it will with all the rounds you could possibly send down it during your lifetime.
Dennis Kroh
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Blackwolfe,
That's good info, thanks. Bill T.
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The 38's and 44's kick like guvamint mules. They also throw a hellatious fireball.
My 91-30's clean up real neat with the treatment described by blackhawke.
Couple of notes! The barrels get hot. REAL hot, REAL quick. Your groups are going to skew. They are ALSO sighted in with those bayonets FIXED. If you're not going to use it, re-zero it without. The triggers "usually" need a little "polish". Easily enough done. Mine are not "tack drivers", but at 300 I am going to make you WICKED uncomfortable...
Also! WATCH your BULLET WEIGHTS! Those 203 gr. monsters are for Dragunovs...in a 38 or 44 they will REALLY bruise your shoulder!
There is a website dedicated to "All things 7.62X54R". Do a quick google. You'll find it, as well as an incalculable amount of info!
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Almost forgot...CTD has the strippers for the best price I have seen. I ONLY keep the pouches, doubles...came with my 91-30's), filled with them. I can pack 5 rds into the mag ALMOST as fast without them...practice makes perfect, and all that...
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From david86440 "And I've heard grown men on this forum crying about the hard kicking mosins!!!!!!!!!"
The 38's and 44's kick like guvamint mules. They also throw a hellatious fireball.
My 91-30's clean up real neat with the treatment described by blackhawke.
Couple of notes! The barrels get hot. REAL hot, REAL quick. Your groups are going to skew. They are ALSO sighted in with those bayonets FIXED. If you're not going to use it, re-zero it without. The triggers "usually" need a little "polish". Easily enough done. Mine are not "tack drivers", but at 300 I am going to make you WICKED uncomfortable...
Also! WATCH your BULLET WEIGHTS! Those 203 gr. monsters are for Dragunovs...in a 38 or 44 they will REALLY bruise your shoulder!
There is a website dedicated to "All things 7.62X54R". Do a quick google. You'll find it, as well as an incalculable amount of info!
Darn right Dave, ;D But it has since been explained to me about the "Light Ball" and "Heavy Ball".
I would like to try shooting the Light ball (147 grain ) in one some time.
Billt, The "ball screw operated milling machine, as with almost all metal working machinery was developed back before the Civil war for Colt, that's why the most common brand is "Bridgeport" they were built in Bridgeport Conn to be close to their then biggest customer who of course was in Hartford.
Otherwise I agree with you about the workmanship, then consider that guys from Colt, S&W, etc thought that compared to what they were turning out the Russian stuff was crap. :o What made our stuff better was in the finish, polishing etc.
When I first worked at T/C back in the late 80's some of the machines I ran had come from the Frankford Arsenal, 2 of them had the Makers plates and were dated 1918, they still got the job done 70 years later.
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very nice!!!!
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Great buy!!! There's a little book on the history of them that's pretty good. But honestly, anything you could want to know you'll find on the internet. You gotta try shooting them in the evening when the sun is going down! HOLLY COW!!! :o
Little bit a muzzle flash there!