The Down Range Forum
Member Section => Down Range Cafe => Topic started by: bjtraz on September 04, 2010, 06:13:36 PM
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Ok, so what procedure does everyone use to "work up" a load for a rifle? Meaning you have a bunch of 5 shot loads put together. Do you shoot one from every group and then start over? Do you shoot all five, then move on to the next load? Do you wait between every shot to cool down? Or between every 5 shot group, if you go that way? Please explain why you chose your procedure. I've heard conflicting information, and just want to put together the best procedure for me. Thanx.
Brian
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There is no such thing a "Perfect do it all load". So first determin exactly what your intended use is for the load your developing.
Then I'd suggest:
1. Clean the rifle spotless.
Get your nice clean rifle set up on a good set of sand bags on a very solid shooting bench that is at the aproximate yardage you intend to use your custom ammo. Sight in ("zero") the rifle using factory ammo (Winchester, Federal, whatever your particular gun likes best). This gives you a base starting point to judge what your hand loads are to be comparing with.
2. Clean the rifle spotless.
Shoot a 5 rnd. group all of the same hand load. Shooting at the exact same bulls eye without adjusting your sights at all! Document that target with which load you used, inspect the brass / primers / bore for pressure signs / if the load shoots "dirty" / exc.. Then wrap the brass up in the target and set it aside for later, closer inspection if you determin its worth it after inspecting other loads.
3. Repeat step 2. for all your other loads. NOT FORGETING TO CLEAN THE RIFLE BETWEEN GROUPS!
4. Pick your top 3 loads. CLOSELY compare the differences between what you did making them up, use that info. to fine tune what you think will be the best load data from your research. Go back to the range and try it all again with your improvements! (don't forget to check your zero with factory ammo) ;)
5. All done? "Zero your sights to match your new "Perfect for my intended use load". ;D
If the load is for hunting, I'd guess your looking for the smallest group from the heaviest possible bullet, with an acceptable amount of drop... Depends what YOU want though...
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Mind you, I skipped about 700 steps in the process I posted assuming you'll fill in the essentials... The FULL explanation of how to develop a load for your purpose and rifle is to be learned from reading half a dozen very good books, and LOTS of practice.
It's fun learning!!!
BE SAFE!
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I would like to know what caliber and barrel length? From a retired sniper, 1st research, barrel length will determine powder type, fast or slow, then bullet weight, and what your goal is as Badger said, then load 5 or 10 rds 5 grains apart starting 10% below max, when the groups start to tighten up, then, start doing the .5 grain increase or decrease to achieve the best accuracy.
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I would like to know what caliber and barrel length? From a retired sniper, 1st research, barrel length will determine powder type, fast or slow, then bullet weight, and what your goal is as Badger said, then load 5 or 10 rds 5 grains apart starting 10% below max, when the groups start to tighten up, then, start doing the .5 grain increase or decrease to achieve the best accuracy.
Badger, Operator
Here's an amateur question. I like guns (and no I won't post the video ;)). I also like accurate rifles. However, as Badger said, its all about the outcome you desire. For me as a hunter and mildly paranoid guy in Hurricane country? If I can put three out of five in a playing card at 200 yards, I am more than happy. If four out of five, with one flyer, hit a dessert plate (figure 5" diameter) at 200, I'm ready to hunt and give the zombies a very bad day.
Now, this is far below what the rifle (a Ruger M77 in .270) is capable of. However, are the procedures you've laid out necessary? What will they buy me that shooting 3 five shot groups with loads A,B and C without cleaning etc. buy me? Have you compared the "proper" way to do things with the old "load the damn thing and shoot a few rounds off the bench" school? I'm not arguing here, just asking an honest question. Thanks.
FQ13
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FQ, it is a valid question, for certain rifles and pistols, I choose factory ammo for SHTF, of course I try to match the best factory ammo for the particular firearm, But if I am reloading, why not come up with the best combo, for this firearm?? Once the initial load development has been done and the perfect load decided on, invest heavy in those components, now these days, it is not as inexpensive as it was before, I have for a long time, found powders that agree with several firearms, rifle or pistol, maybe not the best, but very good, and then bought 8 lb kegs of each. In competition I want the best, not that important in pistol, but in rifle, it better perform, or I lose. Reloading for the SHTF scenario is completely different, you want the most versatile powders out there, that can work in every firearm you own, that is different, and understood, but for now, I have the stuff to load my favorite stuff with what it likes.
My longest, hardest shots were prairie dogs, basically squirrel sized animals, at 600 yards +, that takes an accurate rifle/load
combo, try it with your rifle and factory ammo, I think you would be disappointed, but maybe not. There are such things as SWEET rifles, with factory ammo.
True enough, most of us, don't need to shoot anything bigger than a pie plate under 200 yards to defend ourselves or put dinner in the freezer.
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I am not a "Rifleman" by any stretch of the imagination but having read extensively I don't believe shooting for record from a clean barrel is the best way. I believe the accuracy nuts shoot "fouling shots" thru the barrel before shooting for record.
FWIW
Richard
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I guess I didn't ask the right question. The question was right in my mind, but never made it to my fingers. ;D
I have a pretty good idea how to work up a load, been doing it for awhile. I was more interested in the ACTUAL shooting procedure that you used at the range. You mentioned shooting all of the same load at once, as opposed to one from each different load at a different target. My real question revolves around barrel heat. Do you let cool down between shots, groups of shots, or ??? I'm not talking full auto, but does barrel temperature severely effect bullet impact? The last time I went to the range, I shot approx. 120 rounds between two different rifles in about a 2-3 hour time span. So it wasn't as if I was throwing them down range as fast as I could.
Also, the differing opinions has opened my curiousity towards the cleaning issue. I've always started the day with a clean gun, but not between shots. What are the benefits from either side of discussion? Thanx.
Brian
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FQ, 3 out of 5 on a playing card is REALY good for many hunting instances. But it's all about application. If your hitting that card at 100 yards, and your target is a mountain goat at 1,240... Your in trouble. Shooting a prairy dog at 310 yards with a poodle shooter... In a counter sniper role at 843 yards...
Another reason to hand load is to get rounds that aren't available commercially. None of the hand loads I make have commercial counterparts that perform equally (possibly just my opinion ;)).
And ultimately, hitting your target is all about tolerance stack-up. The more tolerance you can eliminate in your equipment, the more room there is for other errors and you still hitting what you want. ;D
Ellis, BJ I recommend shooting with a clean barrel and following the procedure I did because I'm guessing that's how bj will be using this load. I've never met a hunter that fired fouling shots... Nore one that cleaned his rifle between follow up rounds (very little game has been that patient for me anyhow ;)). You wanna do your testing and load development in (as close as possible) the EXACT same conditions you'll do your actual shooting or your wasting lots of time and ammo.
Hope I helped.
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I can't recommend strongly enough:
(http://rds.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0WTb_tfUoRMky4AIZKjzbkF/SIG=134n051u6/EXP=1283826655/**http%3a//www.30degreessouth.co.za/storage/images/ULTIMATE_SNIPER_small_low_res.jpg)
IMHO this should be required reading before anyone ever buys their first rifle.
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FQ, 3 out of 5 on a playing card is REALY good for many hunting instances. But it's all about application. If your hitting that card at 100 yards, and your target is a mountain goat at 1,240... Your in trouble. Shooting a prairy dog at 310 yards with a poodle shooter... In a counter sniper role at 843 yards...
Another reason to hand load is to get rounds that aren't available commercially. None of the hand loads I make have commercial counterparts that perform equally (possibly just my opinion ;)).
And ultimately, hitting your target is all about tolerance stack-up. The more tolerance you can eliminate in your equipment, the more room there is for other errors and you still hitting what you want. ;D
Ellis, BJ I recommend shooting with a clean barrel and following the procedure I did because I'm guessing that's how bj will be using this load. I've never met a hunter that fired fouling shots... Nore one that cleaned his rifle between follow up rounds (very little game has been that patient for me anyhow ;)). You wanna do your testing and load development in (as close as possible) the EXACT same conditions you'll do your actual shooting or your wasting lots of time and ammo.
Hope I helped.
I get the advantages of handloads. I'm just not going to do it. Its not neccesary for my needs despite the obvious advantages. I don't have the space, money or patience. The question was about technique. Cleaning, not cleaning, cold bore, warm bore etc. I'm lucky in that my particular deer rifle rifle loves Remigton Green Box 130 gr. SPs. Great for deer and cheap. Score! I was shooting close to MOA with the first box at 100 and within 3-4 MOA at 200. I haven't really bothered with anything else. Why would I for a deer rifle? The reason I ask is that I am still playing with my new AR. Ive put a couple of hundred rounds through it, but this is still the "cool new toy, lets play with it"/breaking it in phase. Now its time to see what it likes. It will eat inexpensive factory rounds and learn to like them. ;D My task is to figure out which flavor it prefers.
FQ13
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I get the advantages of handloads. I'm just not going to do it. Its not neccesary for my needs despite the obvious advantages. I don't have the space, money or patience. The question was about technique. Cleaning, not cleaning, cold bore, warm bore etc. I'm lucky in that my particular deer rifle rifle loves Remigton Green Box 130 gr. SPs. Great for deer and cheap. Score! I was shooting close to MOA with the first box at 100 and within 3-4 MOA at 200. I haven't really bothered with anything else. Why would I for a deer rifle? The reason I ask is that I am still playing with my new AR. Ive put a couple of hundred rounds through it, but this is still the "cool new toy, lets play with it"/breaking it in phase. Now its time to see what it likes. It will eat inexpensive factory rounds and learn to like them. ;D My task is to figure out which flavor it prefers.
FQ13
A "treat" for performing well ;D
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You made the right choice already IMO. Every AR I've seen (and just about all other semi-auto's for that matter) made a MESS out of the brass! They scratch and dent the brass up enough that you only get one use out of it, so unless you REALLY, REALLY just HAVE to hand load them, that's just a waste IMO. I've fed my AR10 several different hand loads out of curiosity, experimenting, and in learning the lesson about how bad it chews up brass. Only to find it LOVES Federal Premium factory made 165gr. ballistic tip, boat tails better than anything I could brew up.
I still recommend to do your testing the same way you'll do your shooting. Cold / clean bore with 4 more follow up shots. Use exactly the same POA for all shots in the group, and see where she puts them. I've got a .22 magnum that will throw the first shot after a cleaning 2-3" outside the rest of a group the size of a dime at 50 yards! I'm sure glad I learned it does this on paper. Not by missing game in the field.
Note: I HATE that gun, and it never leaves the safe. >:( Looks pretty though. ;D Stupid Marlin...
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Thanx Badger, that makes perfect sense.
Brian
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I don't work up that many loads. Generally from experience I'll know about where to start. Sierra generally posts an "Accuracy Load" which usually works out to a grain or so below max. That is where I usually begin. In a bolt gun I'll generally start out seating about .020 off the lands. If I get good results I'll move it up .010 or .015 on the next batch. I never clean, or have ever cleaned a gun at the range. I don't think this accomplishes anything. I feel it is more or less a fad that got some traction among some shooters and took off. You can tell this by all of the different cleaning "methods". No two are alike.
I once took a new Ruger Stainless Model 77 in .30-06 to the range with 100 rounds of handloads I loaded up. The last 5 shot group I fired that day, (rounds 95-100) went into the tightest group. After I got home I cleaned the rifle, and on the next range trip the first 5 shot group I fired with the same ammo went into almost a full inch larger of a group. That convinced me all of this scrubbing I see people doing at the range just burns calories, and accomplishes little else. I'd rather sit behind the rifle and burn powder. Bill T.