The Down Range Forum
Member Section => Down Range Cafe => Topic started by: billt on October 19, 2010, 12:44:23 PM
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I think I mentioned this a while back. We've been tossing around the idea of getting a back up generator for the house. I'm not interested in one of those permanent back up installations because they are too difficult to move once installed, and are overly expensive. Perhaps if we lived in a remote location I could see it, but not so much for suburban use. I've narrowed it down to this model for the time being for several reasons.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_398826_398826?cm_sp=Upsells-_-Top%20Sellers-_-Product%20Page
1.) It's portable, (With optional wheel kit).
2.) It is capable of running on 3 different fuels. Gasoline, (10 gallon built in tank), L.P., (Propane), and Natural Gas.
3.) It can change fuels on the fly with a simple flick of a switch.
4.) It has electric start.
5.) It has enough power, (10,500 rated watts / 13,000 surge start up watts (gasoline powered), to run a residential A/C system, along with other appliances like a freezer / fridge and a few lights at once.
6.) It's affordable, (Under $5,000.00 by the time you are all finished with shipping costs, running gas lines and providing the necessary electrical hookups and switches.)
7.) It has a smooth power distribution, (under 6 THD), to run power sensitive equipment like computers, radios, T.V.'s, ect.) Many units cannot accomplish this because of too broad of operating ranges that can harm this kind of equipment.
8.) It's small enough not to create an eyesore, and I can keep it neatly under the back patio where it will be protected from thieves, vandals, and the weather.
9.) The whole unit is simple to set up and operate so Mel can run it if the need arises when I'm not home.
The problem with the really cheap Chinese units is durability, or rather lack of it. And the non existence of parts and service. After talking to a couple of places, I've yet to find one that will even be willing to diagnose a Chi-Com unit, let alone repair it. So the things are pretty much disposable if you do buy one, and they are most likely to give it up when you need them the most. Not a sound investment to say the least. This unit has a 2 year parts and service warranty, and a lot of good reviews, so I'm pretty comfortable with it.
We don't have a lot of power failures, but we've had them, and they can last a while. With a large Fridge / Freezer, plus an extra smaller unit, we have a large amount of perishables in them at any given time. Losing everything can happen quickly, and can easily run into the hundreds of dollars if you tally everything up. Not to mention out here in the hot Summer months A/C is a necessity, not a luxury. A house can easily get over 100 degrees quickly with a power loss. Also, without a functioning pool pump you can lose a pool in a matter of 24 hours without any circulation. Green Algae can form in a matter of hours, and can cost hundreds to clean up once it starts growing.
Running a Natural Gas line isn't a big deal because I've already have a tee with a plug installed in the line going into the house. All it would involve is burying a line to the back yard which I want to do anyway this Winter so I can run a grill without screwing with 20 pound Propane tanks. I don't want or need anymore Hernia's! Also, running these things on L.P. or Natural Gas assures a long service life because there is no problem with fuel stagnation, and the engine runs many times cleaner. Having the ability to run on gasoline is nice simply because with all of the tanks full on both vehicles, as well as the generator I'll have over 62 gallons avaliable without having fuel cans laying around everywhere.
Add it all up and it just makes sense to have something that could prevent a catastrophe from happening. I going to wait until Spring before I do anything because we're going to replace our current, builder supplied, energy guzzling, A/C unit then. I want to go with a better, more energy efficient unit, and possibly have more insulation installed as well. The method to my madness is to try and reduce my monthly energy cost to a minimum by the time I retire in 4 years. Having the back up generator in place by then will just be one less thing I have to concern myself with.
I'm not one of these Alex Jones survivalist types, I just like being independent. And to be able to produce the power for my home by another method other than a buried cable supplied to me by someone else just makes for a little better set up with less worry. The portability of the unit allows me to simply unplug it, disconnect the gas line, and roll it away with me should we move for whatever reason. This is far more difficult with the permanently installed types. Anyone else done this? Bill T.
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Bill -
What is your current cost of electricity? Take a look at the bill and include all costs except "cost of providing power" if applicable. Many leave of the power cost adjusters or adders thrown on due to peak needs. Also, what is your typical monthly usage?
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If you're looking for disaster units (here I'm thinking hurricane, 2-3 weeks of FUBAR), I wouldn't worry about NG lines so much as tanks. I keep 11 propane tanks (9 for the generator, 2 for the grill). They are cheap, don't degrade, are less hazardous than gasoline, and if you switch them off with the weber, aren't a waste of money. We don't have NG, so tanks are the only way to go. Even if we did, I'd still stock some tanks. If service is intterupted, or you need to take your show on the road (say a tornado hits the house and you're camped at a neighbors), you're still good to go. As for brands? Its hard to go wrong with Honda. Just make sure you spend the cash to get an electrician to wire a seperate breaker box for the generator.
Good luck
FQ13
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Bill -
What is your current cost of electricity? Take a look at the bill and include all costs except "cost of providing power" if applicable. Many leave of the power cost adjusters or adders thrown on due to peak needs. Also, what is your typical monthly usage?
I'll have to look on my next bill for current cost per Kilowatt. As for a monthly bill, during the peak Summer months the worst we've had was in the $250.00 range. In the Winter that is cut to well less than half, but my gas bill increases because I have Natural Gas heat and hot water. My hot water heater is in the garage, so in the Summer it hardly runs, but in the Winter it can get chilly in the garage, especially at night. We recently switched from an electric to a gas clothes dryer, so that helps keep electric costs down as well. Electric dryers can eat up to 4,000 watts on "high". Bill T.
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Since we live off grid I have got to play with this stuff a bit. ;D Most of the Chinese stuff is a knockoff of some other maker, usually Honda. This can go so far as to make the parts the same if you know what you are looking for. In this case, if the engine did go bad, at worst you would just get another engine, or a whole other unit.
These units will be noisy, very noisy. The tri-fuel nature will cause it to use more fuel than an otherwise dedicated unit would, but that is the trade off. Also note that it will get less power using NG than either Gasoline or Propane. Also, in a power outage you may also experience loss of the NG since that is pumped to your home (probably would not, but could). Overall, in your situation, it is probably a good buy.
One thing I would recommend is that you use a very good quality synthetic oil as it can make a definite difference in the life span of the engine. My current gen set has 10,000 hours, which is well over the expected span for that engine, and it is still in very good shape. I was told that is over 600k miles in a car engine. Mine runs on Propane, and it does burn a lot cleaner, not to mention the long term storage.
-Bidah
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As for brands? Its hard to go wrong with Honda. Just make sure you spend the cash to get an electrician to wire a seperate breaker box for the generator.
Good luck
FQ13
That is what I intend to do. I think they call them "Transfer Switches".
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/NTEProdinfo?productId=200220974&storeId=6970&catalogId=4006970&langId=-1&cm_sp=Upsells-_-Accessories-_-Product%20Page
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/NTEProdinfo?productId=200196674&storeId=6970&catalogId=4006970&langId=-1&cm_sp=Upsells-_-Accessories-_-Product%20Page
They basically transfer the "In" from the main line from the street or pole, to the plug in receptacle for the generator. Flip the switch, and you're running off the generator. When power is restored shut down the generator, unplug it, throw the switch back and you're running back off the main line. It's not overly complicated, but I would have an electrician do it. All I know about electricity is you need a "go to" and a "come from". Enough to be dangerous. ;D Bill T.
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One thing I would recommend is that you use a very good quality synthetic oil as it can make a definite difference in the life span of the engine. My current gen set has 10,000 hours, which is well over the expected span for that engine, and it is still in very good shape. I was told that is over 600k miles in a car engine. Mine runs on Propane, and it does burn a lot cleaner, not to mention the long term storage.
-Bidah
Bidah,
Do you use Mobil 1 ? If so what weight? It gets very hot here in the Summer months, which is the likely time for a power outage because of the severe Monsoon electrical storms we get in July and August, not to mention power demand is also at it's peak then. Bill T.
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That is what I intend to do. I think they call them "Transfer Switches".
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/NTEProdinfo?productId=200220974&storeId=6970&catalogId=4006970&langId=-1&cm_sp=Upsells-_-Accessories-_-Product%20Page
They basically transfer the "In" from the main line from the street or pole, to the plug in receptacle for the generator. Flip the switch, and you're running off the generator. When power is restored shut down the generator, unplug it, throw the switch back and you're running back off the main line. It's not overly complicated, but I would have an electrician do it. All I know about electricity is you need a "go to" and a "come from". Enough to be dangerous. ;D Bill T.
Actually, it is kind of complicated. The guy was in my house for a couple of hours. He was figuring out what the generator could and couldn't power, checking that it wasn't overloaded, switching circuits on and off etc. The deal is mine will run the lights and the fridge and freezer (Hurricane Hazeritas anyone? ;D), but not the stove, AC, hot water heater etc.. Still, to get that done, and make sure I had a place to move the microwave and set up an electric skillet near a window etc., etc. took awhile. It was $300 well spent as we tested everything going on and off and it worked well. I wouldn't even think about doing it myself unless you are good at that sort of thing, as if it fails during a storm you are SOL.
FQ13
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It sounds like you got a bargain for $300.00! For something like that it was money very well spent! Bill T.
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I'm putting together some items for you that I will pm, but a bit of advice for everyone:
Keep your freezer full with the most perishable on the bottom. Even if you don't have food in there freeze water. Also, keep insulating material available to wrap it during outages. A full freezer with an extra insulating blanket can last a couple days even in the hotest days.
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Bidah,
Do you use Mobil 1 ? If so what weight? It gets very hot here in the Summer months, which is the likely time for a power outage because of the severe Monsoon electrical storms we get in July and August, not to mention power demand is also at it's peak then. Bill T.
I dislike wading into the oil wars.. :) I have used Mobil 1 in a few cases, but I have been an Amsoil guy for 30+ years. No I am not a dealer either. I use 0w-30, but I am more concerned about working/starting at 30 to 40 below zero than working in hot weather. I used to live in Glendale, so I remember. :) I would guess that in your case you would need a 20w-50 oil. I consider Mobil 1 a good Synthetic that is fairly easy to find, which is why I will use it now and then for certain things. An excellent quality filter will also help too as it will do a better job of trapping the junk.
An electrician to install the transfer switch is a must in a lot of localities. Not a bad idea if you are grid tied either. Figuring out your load needs will take some time though.
-Bidah
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I'm leaning toward a permanent installation myself. Have had outages at all the wrong times...twice when I was recovering from surgery and had to try to pull start a generator, once when getting ready to take my wife to the Dr. after open heart... I want mine to run everything, especially the well pump and sump pumps. The generator is only about $2500. I haven't priced propane or NG hoopkup or installation but it ain't cheap but it is better than having the basement flood and having water to flush!
JMHO
Richard
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10.5 kw, based on the OP, at 240 volts for your appliances, AC, Freezer, stove,...unless you have a gas stove, and gas water htr, will barely be enough, especially when you include your 120 loads. Lights, standard fridge, TV's. etc,....
10,500 watts at 240VAC is 43.75 amps on a 50 amp service.
Than throw in your 1500-2500 watt microwave, at 120VAC is 12.5 to15 amps.... 1/3 of your capacity just for the micro. Than your A/C, is it a 2 ton unit? the compressor has inrush over 25amps, than settles down to about 1/3 of that.
Dryer? looking at 18-22 amps. at 240.....
Lights? TV? Your fridge pulls 4amps, but the compressor ramps it up to about 8.5amps.
Deep Freezer, and other constant running items, nibble away at your capacity, and 10.5 ain't enough.
You'll need an itemized list of items you can't live without, get the wattage, divide by the voltage, and record the amps.
It ain't the volts, it's the amps that give you capacity to run stuff you want.
Your going to be in the 22.5 to 55 kw, range, or higher, and still utilizing load mgt. to turn off some stuff, when you run other stuff.
I kicked around inverters, and golf cart batteries, via a seamless transfer switch on the survival thread, and a gen. Rotating your loads from inverter to gen also gives you a chance to cut the noise down at night, run your fridge, freezer, etc,... couple of lights, and listen for the zombies.
Than fire the genset up in the morning, and recharge your batteries.
Like guns billt.....How bad do you want to run everything in your house?, and how much do you want to spend.
They have portable "trailers" for the larger gens. You'll need a 4-wheeler, or truck to move it though.
Let me know if I can send you some load calculating checksheets,. simple math once you get the info off the stuff you want to have running, and what it will take to run it.
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My dryer and water heater is gas, but my stove is electric. The "must have" items I would want to run would be A/C and pool pump, and Fridge / Freezer, along with a few lights so as not to trip over anything. From there I could trade off if necessary. For example if I had to kill the A/C for a half hour to run the stove, so be it. As you said, like guns or anything else there is no end to this. Perhaps a 4,000 H.P. Caterpillar V-16 so when the A/C kicks on from all of the heat my arc welder is generating, I'll be good to go! ;D Bill T.
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Lots of good talk going on here, but wait or ask TW, Yachts use all this stuff, and from our conversations, he can tell you chapter and verse, not to mention inverters and DC power for lighting, DC lighting will last longer, and keep an eye on DC, Led lighting, it is coming and will make a huge difference in power usage.
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Here's a suggestion billt.
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&expIds=17259,18167,20782,25522,26637,26992,27023&sugexp=ldymls&xhr=t&q=house+generators&cp=10&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=1681191177918520788&ei=jD2-TKf3BcP_lgew-YXmBw&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=3&sqi=2&ved=0CD4Q8wIwAg#
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&expIds=17259,18167,20782,25522,26637,26992,27023&sugexp=ldymls&xhr=t&q=house+generators&cp=10&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=2208713315638286327&ei=jD2-TKf3BcP_lgew-YXmBw&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=2&sqi=2&ved=0CDoQ8wIwAQ#
Right around $4000.00 +/- It would run your house. Bolt it to a utility trailer, arc weld away... ;D
The three fuel option, may cost more but is a great resource. You'll be the only house with lights on, kickin back cleaning your 1,745 firearms, eating ice cream in winter... ;D
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Thanks TW. If you had to guess off the top of your head, based on what you know. About how much do you think installation and set up would run on units like the ones you have linked? I could run the gas line and get a slab poured, but there is no way I would try to tackle the electrical set up. Much too involved for me. Also, pardon my electrical ignorance, but I'm assuming 20 KW equates to 20,000 watts, correct? If so that really seems like a good buy in relationship to the power it provides Bill T.
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Thanks TW. If you had to guess off the top of your head, based on what you know. About how much do you think installation and set up would run on units like the ones you have linked? I could run the gas line and get a slab poured, but there is no way I would try to tackle the electrical set up. Much too involved for me. Also, pardon my electrical ignorance, but I'm assuming 20 KW equates to 20,000 watts, correct? If so that really seems like a good buy in relationship to the power it provides Bill T.
Hey billt, the electrical is pretty straight fwd., either "seamless/auto", or "manual/break before make" switching. That's up to you.
The output leads on the gen will attach to your main power feeds, from the electric company's meter via a breaker. Probably 150-200 amp.
With seamless transfer or auto,
If the power goes out, there is a "sense" lead that will send an auto signal to start the gen, usually a programmable time of about 10 to 30 seconds. The auto switch, will "lock out" the electric companies feeds, and your house will come back to life on gen.
If the power comes back on, you can opt for an auto transfer, or a manual switchover. Yes this costs a few hundred bucks more, labor and materials. but it is an option.
In Manual, the power goes out, you go to the remote start pad, start gen, open or"lock out" the electric companies 200 amp breaker, and close or "activate" the gen output breaker. This goes right to your main panel and your house turns back on. Reversed when the power comes back on. Cheaper, easier, less labor intensive, less materials involved, but manual. No big deal.
If you can get your gen close to your fuel supply, and/or main panel, this will reduce cost also. But not a big deal.
I would keep the gen start/stop and transfer breakers in my house, garage, for security, and for a perm install, if you flood, or could flood, have your gen raised on a frame.
You will have to do maintenance "runs" to make sure your gen starts and runs, usually once or twice a month, for an hour or two. Just don't let it sit for months and than "hope" it starts when you need it.
Ballpark, electrical install, depending on bells and whistles should be around or less than $1000 for labor and materials by a licensed contractor. Easily.
Probably even less for a manual version.
You are correct in the 20kw=20,000watts.
Hope this helps, it's a great option for "off grid" power, although if you have neighbors, and the power stays out for a while, they will be coming over... ::)
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I have a friend that has a hunting camp in the middle of nowhere in Michigan's upper peninsula. There is no grid power and never has been and currently is not even available.
When he aquired the property there where two stationary diesel generator sets present. One is a 4 cylinder John Deere powered unit, and the other is an old 2 cylider Lister powered gen set. The Deere engine is the same as used in some of Deere's backhoes. The Lister is really sweet. It uses about 1/4 the fuel per hour as the Deere. The Listers have a good reputation and from what I can tell are extremely reliable and run forever. If I were to go off grid or lived in a more rural area I would love to have one. They seem to be somewhat hard to find and pricey.
Don't know much about them, but seems to be some good information here:
http://listerengine.com/smf/index.php
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You are going to need a big genset if you want to run a ac. If you are on a well, or have a "san pump" you want to make sure those are powered.
avoid the multifuel versions if you can help it. Most require you to swap out parts in the carb for you to change fuels. Not something you want to do in a power outage, even more so if its cuased by a storm or in your case a heat wave.
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Two questions, Why not go solar since you are in the perfect place for it, or wind mill, which will be a heck of a lot less noisy than the generator, and you don't have to wait for a disaster to start getting your money back ?
Second, Are you sure the Pool pump is a major priority ?
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Two questions, Why not go solar since you are in the perfect place for it, or wind mill, which will be a heck of a lot less noisy than the generator, and you don't have to wait for a disaster to start getting your money back ?
Second, Are you sure the Pool pump is a major priority ?
Dude? Have you seen his wife? Of course the pool is a priority! ;D
FQ13 Sorry, Bill, couldn't resist. ;D
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I don't get the connection, he can drown one in unfiltered pool water just as easy, though I can't imagine why Bill would want to do that. ???
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Uhh.....I was more referring to the very attractive wife wanting to spend some quality pool time, which every one appreciates. As to your comments, well...I'll say to you what I said to Phil. I have no doubt that if Billt opens his gun safe, he can find something for you. If he holds his mouth just right, and the wind is slack, he can probably cap your ass all the way from Arizona to New Hampshire. ;D
FQ13
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This ain't Oz, I shoot back ;D
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More great info here.
I have a couple of questions.
For a "Seamless" transfer, batteries would be required?
The second link to the big NG generater seemed to indicate it was seamless.
Also, even though I hate to reset clocks, there is not much in a home that needs to be seamless?
I'm thinking of computer equipment and maybe some medical devices that might be in use.
Would it be a wiser choice to manage those that you need to be seamless by using a standard UPS like many of us may use for our computer gear already?
The prices for those 20KW generators seem reasonable and even with taxes, shipping, installation and what all, the price is going to be around $7000 or so.... Won't take a major win at the lottery for that.
Multi-fuel would be a great option if, like the generator posted that started the thread, changing from one to another required only setting a switch.
Solar is still an expensive way to get power but I've read of a solar panel that is being developed that increases output, is transparent and could be used where windows are used to expand the area able to be dedicated to solar collection. Transparent has me wondering because it seems there must be some light energy lost to the power collection.
Solar still won't provide the direct power to run a 20KW load but would be able to charge the batteries needed to provide much of that service but all those batteries are another headache. An alternative function for solar power might be to run an electrolysis setup to generate O2 and hydrogen to later be used as fuel to your multi-fuel generator. Less overhead and perhaps more flexibility in this type of energy storage over batteries.
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Two questions, Why not go solar since you are in the perfect place for it, or wind mill, which will be a heck of a lot less noisy than the generator, and you don't have to wait for a disaster to start getting your money back ?
Second, Are you sure the Pool pump is a major priority ?
The problem with those you have mentioned are these. First, solar is expensive, produces minimum power even here in Arizona when compared to the cost. Another is hail. I've been lucky and have never had any hail damage in almost 20 years in Arizona. With that said just last week a co-worker had his brand new Ford Mustang GT all but destroyed when he got caught in bumper to bumper traffic in one of the worst storms Phoenix has seen in a while. Result, over $15,000.00 in damage to a car with under 8,000 miles, and not a scratch on it. One storm like that, and kiss all of your solar panels good bye. And most insurance will not cover that kind of damage to that kind of equipment. Besides, even with government rebates most of that stuff craps out before you recoup any savings. The technology just isn't there yet, and the systems are overly complex for what they provide.
Wind is too infrequent here to be of any value to a residential system. Not to mention I live in a HOA that won't allow any structures built that neighbors can see over the height of your back wall, (6 feet). Also with either wind or solar you've got to deal with a ton of expensive batteries. Nowhere to put them, and again expensive and don't last, especially in Arizona's 115+ degree Summers. I have yet to get more than 2 Summers out of a car battery here.
Running a pool pump is a must, especially in the Summer. Our pool water can get up to 95 degrees during the hot Summer months. In addition to using large amounts of Chlorine, circulation is a MUST. Without it green Algae can form in a matter of hours because without circulation to move and mix the Chlorine it won't get into all of the water evenly. I had a friend who has 2 girls. One Sunday they had a pool party and by late afternoon his pool was getting quite cloudy. (A sure sign of low Chlorine content.) He was tired and didn't feel like going and getting pool shock to deal with it. When he got up the next morning his whole pool was green! That's how fast it can grow if conditions are right.
I keep my Chlorine level high enough to pickle fish because I have bad ears, and cannot afford an ear infection, and I don't want the hassle and expense of dealing with an Algae infestation. But the answer is yes, it is very important to run your pool pump at least 4 to 6 hours a day in the Summer, less in the Winter when water temps are far lower. Bill T.
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This ain't Oz, I shoot back ;D
Only some dont shoot back. ;)
I have locked and loaded on a few occasions in the past and not opposed to doing so when needed.
Old saying rather be judged by 12 of my peers than carried out by 6 of my mates.
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Only some dont shoot back. ;)
I have locked and loaded on a few occasions in the past and not opposed to doing so when needed.
Old saying rather be judged by 12 of my peers than carried out by 6 of my mates.
Glad to see the spirit of Botany Bay is still alive ;D
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Glad to see the spirit of Botany Bay is still alive ;D
Not Botany they where all "piss and wind" poms
More like the spirit of Eureka (http://www.cultureandrecreation.gov.au/articles/eurekastockade/)
(http://home.alphalink.com.au/~eureka/graphics/eureka.gif)
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Not Botany they where all "piss and wind" poms
More like the spirit of Eureka (http://www.cultureandrecreation.gov.au/articles/eurekastockade/)
(http://home.alphalink.com.au/~eureka/graphics/eureka.gif)
Well, what do you know? Sort of an Eureka Tea Party and their version of the Gadsden Flag.
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Was it "New South Wales or Tasmania that handed Bligh his second mutiny, I know he was Governor of both at different times.
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Was it "New South Wales or Tasmania that handed Bligh his second mutiny, I know he was Governor of both at different times.
Blight was never a govenor of Tasmania.
He was however in NSW in which he was basically expelled. While he might have been a great seaman he was a cruel bastard, a typical pom full of his own self importance and ideaology.
In 1806, Governor King was succeeded by Captain William Bligh, whose previous adventures have made his name so well known. In his ship the Bounty, he had been sent by the British Government to the South Sea Islands for a cargo of bread-fruit trees. But his conduct to his sailors was so tyrannical that they mutinied, put him, along with 18 others, into an open boat, then sailed away and left them in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. Bligh was a skilful sailor and the voyage he took was one of the most remarkable on record. In an open boat he carried his little party over 3,500 miles of unknown ocean to the island of Timor, where they found a vessel to take them home.
In appointing Captain Bligh to rule the colony, the English Government spoiled an excellent seaman to make a very inefficient Governor. It was true that New South Wales contained a large convict population, who required to be ruled with despotic rigour, yet there were many free settlers who declined to be treated like slaves and felons. Many of whom became to thoroughly dislike the new Governor. Now it wasn't that Bligh was totally without feelings, proven following his generous treatment of the Hawkesbury farmers , who were ruined by a flood in 1806. His behaviour showed him to be warm hearted in his way, he did everything in his power, both with time and money, to alleviate their distress and he received a special thanks from the English Government for his humanity. Unfortunately his arbitrary and unamiable manners, and his frequent cruelties obscured all these better qualities (as they do!). He caused the convicts to be flogged without mercy for faults which existed in his own imagination and he bullied his officers throughout the colony and thus repeated the same mistakes which led to the mutiny of the Bounty.
At the same time he was anxious to do what he conceived to be his duty to his superiors in England. He had been ordered to put a stop to the traffic in spirits and inspite of the most unscrupulous opposition on the part of those invoved in it, he set himself the task of fixing the problem by prompt measures, with a contemptuous disregard of the hatred he was causing. But in the end the officers were too strong for him and in the quarrel theat ensued, the Governor was completely defeated.
Month after month, Governor William Bligh grew more and more unpopular and those he didn't alienate in the course of his duty he offended by his rudeness and tyranny, until there was scarcely anyone left in the colony who was his friend. Many were inflamed by so bitter a hatred that they were ready to do anything for revenge. The colony was on tender hooks, fearing that the smallest of incidents was likely to bring about serious results.
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Are you sure ?
I remember reading a couple different places, that even after that, he was appointed Govenor of Tasmania, in fact, I think he's buried there.
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Are you sure ?
I remember reading a couple different places, that even after that, he was appointed Govenor of Tasmania, in fact, I think he's buried there.
positive
see here http://adbonline.anu.edu.au/biogs/A010111b.htm
After Johnston's trial, Bligh received his routine promotion, first to rear admiral of the Blue, which was backdated to July 1810 when it had become due, and then to vice-admiral in June 1814. He lived in Lambeth for a time and gave valuable evidence to the 1812 select committee on transportation; but after the death of his wife in April 1812 and the grant of a pension in April 1813 he moved to Farningham, Kent. He died on 7 December 1817 and was buried in the churchyard of St Mary's, Lambeth. His six surviving daughters inherited his estate, including the grants he had received in New South Wales. These were eventually acquired by his son-in-law, Sir Maurice O'Connell; in 1841 Governor Sir George Gipps agreed to a settlement about them which was so favourable to the grantees that whatever his temporary trials, Bligh's estate gained lasting benefit from his office.