The Down Range Forum
Member Section => Handguns => Topic started by: TAB on December 13, 2010, 06:35:19 PM
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How much work would be envoled in converting a smith 629 from 44 mag to 41 mag?
I know new barrel and cylinder, but is there anything else?
Long story short a friend of mine is giving me a smtih 629 that has a slighly bludged barrel thanks to the old "FMJ after shooting a bunch of lead to clean it out" myth. NEVER, EVER DO THAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Why not just re-barrel the 629? It'd be cheaper and in todays market worth more.
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Why not just re-barrel the 629? It'd be cheaper and in todays market worth more.
And a lot easier to find ammo for. I can walk into Wally World and have at least 3 choices of .44 mag. My local gunshop rarely stocks .41 mag.
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Why not just re-barrel the 629? It'd be cheaper and in todays market worth more.
I like being diffrent... Right now I'm only into the gun $21 which is the DROS fee ( background check.)
I don't sell guns, if you see me selling guns, bad things are happening. I'm talking like I'm going to die pretty quick.
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I like being diffrent... Right now I'm only into the gun $21 which is the DROS fee ( background check.)
I don't sell guns, if you see me selling guns, bad things are happening. I'm talking like I'm going to die pretty quick.
You should check out some of the parts places, S&W parts don't seem to be to hard to find. I would think just re-barrel and new cylinder. If you're going to do it yourself I'd have a gunsmith check the timing and give it a quick once over unless you really know what you're doing. I know next to nothing about working on revolvers but will tackle just about anything on an auto pistol where some people are the complete opposite of that.
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I like being diffrent...
I've noticed that about you!
Seriously sounds like a job for Bowen.
Pecos, who just took 20 min to edit this correctly.
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Go here for parts
http://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/Products.aspx?catid=10125
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Basically you're changing it from a 629 to a 657. C o o l. I'd go for it assuming everything else fits. Of course, you'll drive somebody nuts years from now when the serial number doesn't match the caliber. Just give you something to chuckle about later.
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Go here for parts
http://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/Products.aspx?catid=10125
while the 629 and 657 are both N frames, the internals are diffrent. I'm pretty sure if I put a 657 cylinder in a 629 I'd have to redo all the interal parts as well. not really a big deal, but I'd rather not, as I'd like to do most of the work myself.
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You would have to have the Head space, cylinder gap and timing checked by a competent gunsmith which would be something to have checked anyway after any conversion of this type.
You might want to call S&W to see what they would charge for replacing the bulged barrel then you could trade it in on a .41 Mag of you choosing.
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What I don't want to do is have to "fit" all the internals ( or pay some one to do it) Its not so much that I can't do it, I just don't have the tools to do it.
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TAB, The barrel threads are most likely the same on both the 629 and 657 so that part should be fairly simple.
Since they are both "N" frame the cylinder diameter should be the same, Manufacturers do not like to make to much variation with in models like that as it makes assembly mistakes almost certain.
So it would seem like just switch out those 2 parts and then have the things on Majer's list checked out by some one else.
But remember, I am NOT a gunsmith, I just have experience on the manufacturing side.
That being said, I would be willing to bet that there are no other issues, you should not have to change anything in the frame at all. These are mass produced so they have an order for 10 Model 629's they pull 10 parts out of the "Frame bin", the next order is for the Model 657 they pull that number of frames from the same bin, the differences would be in the Cylinder, spacing of the chambers and if needed the spacing of the notches for rotating the cylinder because that is the part that is different between models.
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You would have to have the Head space, cylinder gap and timing checked by a competent gunsmith which would be something to have checked anyway after any conversion of this type.
You might want to call S&W to see what they would charge for replacing the bulged barrel then you could trade it in on a .41 Mag of you choosing.
Here you go, just changing out the barrel is a pretty easy job and since the .44 is probably more desirable to most people who aren't "different" you may make a few bucks by trading/selling the 629 with a new barrel then buying a .41 if that's what you really want.
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while the 629 and 657 are both N frames, the internals are diffrent. I'm pretty sure if I put a 657 cylinder in a 629 I'd have to redo all the interal parts as well. not really a big deal, but I'd rather not, as I'd like to do most of the work myself.
How old is the 657? Does it have the newer style firing pin or the older style that is on the hammer?
Does it have a lock on the left side?
The internals between the two shouldn't be THAT different unless you are talking about the difference between older and newer production.
If it's newer, parts should be easy to come by.
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Firing pin and lock should not make any difference, there is no reason to mess with anything in the frame.
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Firing pin and lock should not make any difference, there is no reason to mess with anything in the frame.
+1.
6 shots is 6 shots. You're talking a chamber and cylinder locking notch cut every 60 degrees, regardless of caliber. The internals would be the same as would be the star it drives. Bill T.
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You guys are right. I don't know what I was thinking except TAB said the internals were different.
I blame it on the 2, 3 or 8 beers!
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http://www.bowenclassicarms.com/NEW/PriceList.htm
Not too cheap but would be fun I think.
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Tab it is not that difficult a process, replace the barrel and cylinder, all the internals are the same. Measure the barrel cylinder gap, best is .006", swap the ejection rod and you will need a new extractor. It might work right then, but check for any binding and the timing of the cylinder, when cocked single action, Keep the trigger pulled back with the hammer down, then slightly rotate the cylinder counter clock wise, it should already be locked in the bolt stop, if it takes a little movement to get it to drop into the bolt stop, then you need a new hand or to stretch the old one, you need a fixture to do that and some knowledge. Remember when changing the barrel, clamp in a vise with wood and leather, and clamp it really tight, you do not want the barrel to rotate and mar it. Make sure the side plate is on, and all screws are tight or you might torque the frame.
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Just a question what ihas a .41 done that .44 cant or wont?
Elmer Keith was a very clever bloke I give him credit for that but making a .41 was sort of like inventing a 5 cylinder engine when there is already a 4 and a 6.
Just rebarrel the sucker.
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Just a question what ihas a .41 done that .44 cant or wont?
Elmer Keith was a very clever bloke I give him credit for that but making a .41 was sort of like inventing a 5 cylinder engine when there is already a 4 and a 6.
Just rebarrel the sucker.
2 things,
#1 It's TAB
#2 It would be pretty cool to have a revolver that you more or less built yourself from parts, even if they are only big parts ;D
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Depending on how bad the barrel is bulged I might shoot it as is.
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Depending on how bad the barrel is bulged I might shoot it as is.
Good point, if the accuracy is still there I would not care if it looked like a python that just ate a dog. ;D
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maybe I want something bigger then 357, but smaller then a 44 mag?
I know I can load a 44 mag, anywhere from something that just makes it down the barrel to mack truck stoping...
If I want to push paper I have 22s. I don't plan on hunting mack trucks. I would like something hotter then a 357 for pig hunting. 41 mag fits that bill and I can get factory ammo if I choose too. I also like that I can load upt to 265 grain bullet in a 41 mag. max for a 357 in 180. you can drive both at about 1400 fps with easy, but the 265 grainer has a extra 300 ftlbs of energy.
Most of my shot guns are 16 ga, I like having things others don't.
its bulged enough to where its not safe to shoot. I could make a snuby out of it... 44 mag and snubby should be words that never go toegther.
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That's the other thing I was wondering about. A snubbie. That would be uniquely yours.
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That is something I could do very easyly now that I have a mill. I have no desire to own a snubby in 44 mag. Just like I have no desire to own a ultra light wieght hunting rifle in a mag chambering, or a single shot break barrel 3.5" mag 12 ga shot gun.
I'll leave those to the "smart people"... ;)
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maybe I want something bigger then 357, but smaller then a 44 mag?
I know I can load a 44 mag, anywhere from something that just makes it down the barrel to mack truck stoping...
If I want to push paper I have 22s. I don't plan on hunting mack trucks. I would like something hotter then a 357 for pig hunting. 41 mag fits that bill and I can get factory ammo if I choose too. I also like that I can load upt to 265 grain bullet in a 41 mag. max for a 357 in 180. you can drive both at about 1400 fps with easy, but the 265 grainer has a extra 300 ftlbs of energy.
Most of my shot guns are 16 ga, I like having things others don't.
its bulged enough to where its not safe to shoot. I could make a snuby out of it... 44 mag and snubby should be words that never go toegther.
Caliber: 357 Mag
Bullet Wt.: 200gr COR®BON Hunter HC
Velocity: 1150fps
Energy: 587ftlbs
http://www.shopcorbon.com/CORandregBON-Hunter/357-Mag-200gr-CORBON-Hunter-HC/HT357200HC-20/300/Product
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41 Mag seems to be like 10 MM, Kind of a"Cult Classic".
TAB got a deal on the 44 Mag so it's a really inexpensive route into the .41Mag that I have heard people say never really got a fair shake.
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41 Mag seems to be like 10 MM, Kind of a"Cult Classic".
TAB got a deal on the 44 Mag so it's a really inexpensive route into the .41Mag that I have heard people say never really got a fair shake.
$21 is all it cost me... just the dros fee lol.
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Beleive it or not, I understand what TAB is wanting to do. I have my eye on a .357 Uberti SAA revolver in a local shop. They want around $240.00 for it. This would make an eazy conversion to a .41 special.
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Unless it has a LONG cylinder you can't convert 357 to 41 mag. I won't even get into the whole perssure diffrences.
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.41 special is .10 of inch shorter thatn .41 mag. Same theory as .38 special is to .357 magnum. Max vel. is 950 fps. not that bad with a 210 grain bullet.
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Picking up the gun in the morning...
BB makes a 265 grainer at 1350... that sounds like a real pig stoper. thats 1075 ftlbs.
I'm still debating if I want to go either 6 or 8" barrel.
Either way its going to have to wait until I can save up some cash. with the way things are going that should be oh say march 2159
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Think positive, I bet you don't wait a day past 2099 ;D
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well just for kicks I locked the barrel in the vise on the mill and put a indcator on it. the bulge is .0281" at its peak. Thats the outside. I don't a have a inside mic that small( or that long for that matter) to see what it is on the inside.
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Back in the early 90s I had a gunsmith friend of mine that was a .44 Mag nut and wanted a fixed sighted N frame which they didn't make. Since I'm a 41 nut and had two M58 and no 4" M57 we canablized the a 58 and 29. 4" HB and .41 cylinder went on the 29 frame and tapered 4" 29 barrel and cylider went on the 58 frame. Course one barrel had to have a higher front sight built up and the other lowered. Believe he completed both jobs over a weekend. The one 58 that was canablized the 4" barrel always shot 100 fps slower than my other 58 (still have that one) but no longer have the hybrid. Both guns always functioned well without problems.
CD