The Down Range Forum
Member Section => Reloading => Topic started by: Badgersmilk on January 04, 2011, 12:06:47 AM
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You guys do it?
Some say it's unnecessary altogether. I use a Lyman's deburring tool, but it leaves the chamfer it creates really choppy and uneven IMO. Have you guys found anything thats doing a better job?
Before:
(http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww40/BigCheeseStick/P1010975.jpg)
After depriming in the press, and deburring with the Lyman tool:
(http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww40/BigCheeseStick/P1010989.jpg)
It does a good job trueing up the hole, but the chamfer is RUFF. :(
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I don't do it.
If I was going to do it, I'd most likly chuck it up in the drill press and use the postive stop.
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i don't yet
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I shot NRA Highpower and never found it necessary. Bench Rest shooters might or Die Hard Varminters might.
JMHO
Richard
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You put some good pics up, I think and apply, the primer hole de burr is a good idea, and makes sense, a deformed flash hole will effect perfect performance with a rifle,, does not apply with a handgun, unless, you are shooting extremely accuarate sports like Bullseye or IHmsa. Where a 1/2'' matters. If performance matters, do it.
I
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For handguns No, don't waste your time...If you are talking about super accurate High Power Rifle or Benchrest Ammo....Yes by all means.
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I won't comment on whether or not it is needed, I'm not that deeply into reloading, or that experienced.
I will comment on the HOW though, If possible I would use a deburring tool, or countersink that had a "flatter " angle on it so that it removed the burr without removing so much material from the inside of the flash hole.
Maybe something like a long #1 or #2 center drill ?
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I don't do it.
If I was going to do it, I'd most likly chuck it up in the drill press and use the postive stop.
I knew a guy who shot in some big bullseye matches around the southeast and did it with his selected loads for competition. He also shot bench-rest too.
He only did it to his competition loads and he used the drill press with an extra fine grinding stone/bit normally used with a dremel tool. He built a jig using a shell holder for a reloader and set his stop at the right depth.
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Concerns about removing too much material are valid and good advice...However just as an FYI....All the quality Deburring tools I have used..such as Sinclair, Reddings and RCBS do have a collar/stop on them which is adjustable.
(http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo111/rat31465/My%20Build/SinclairDeburringTool.jpg)
I also have an RCBS model which I chuck into a cordless drill if I am deburring alot of casings for a Prarie Dog/Varmint Rifle.
Reports I have read from those who spend more time researching the subject than I say a shallow radius or chamfer is preferable as it helps give the primers flash a more cetered and uniform cone of fire.
Since flash holes are punched and not drilled, the excess material usually pushes over to one edge of the flash hole and deflects the primers flash off to the side otherwise.
Velocity and pressure uniformity can be affected by this depending on powder type and even how it lays in the casing.
I can verify that the amount of material that falls from casings can be suprising.
I even uniform the primer pockets, size the casings and trim them all before sorting by weight...
Afterall Weight equals material equals volume.
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No, not ever, on straight walled pistol brass.
on bottlenecked rifle cases, hmmn...uhh...jeesh.. ???
for my AR and it's 3 gun competition ammo, NO!
but the next time I have my dremel out, I will cut off the case heads and snap a picture of the huge burr that punching that flashhole leaves behind.
I have to wonder effect does decapping the brass have on getting rid of the burr. ???
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I have to wonder effect does decapping the brass have on getting rid of the burr. ???
Good Question...I would be interested in in seeing before and after pics if you follow up on that.
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A'yup, I will see what I can do.
I did cut off the headstamp region of one of my .223 cases and there was quite the burr left by the punching process.
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Just checked some of my Starline brass .... don't see any burrs. From what I understand Starline uses a process that eliminates the burrs. Just a thought.
Pecos
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The only flash holes I'll deburr is for my .308 and .300 Win. Mag. long range target rifles. I honestly don't know if it helps or not. I figure that if I'm being totally anal with all of my case prep, I might as well go all the way and do it, thereby leaving nothing to chance. With Lapua brass the flash hole is drilled not punched, so the burr is little to non existent. I can't see the purpose of doing it for pistol ammunition. Bill T.
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I debur mine with a small charge of explosives under pressure. In point of fact, I de-burr between 100-500 cases each practice and 100-300 each match.
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The only flash holes I'll deburr is for my .308 and .300 Win. Mag. long range target rifles. I honestly don't know if it helps or not. I figure that if I'm being totally anal with all of my case prep, I might as well go all the way and do it, thereby leaving nothing to chance. With Lapua brass the flash hole is drilled not punched, so the burr is little to non existent. I can't see the purpose of doing it for pistol ammunition. Bill T.
I'm with Billt.
I'm just getting into rifle reloading, and I have read a lot both ways. However, I figure if I am going to be this anal about so many steps why not go all the way. There are few jobs that can be done while doing other things (watching tv, listening to a game on the radio, or between rounds at a match), and this is one of them. Plus, you only need to do it once on a piece of brass, and it is good for life.