The Down Range Forum
Member Section => Handguns => Topic started by: Badgersmilk on July 24, 2011, 06:45:34 PM
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What have you guys done with yours? I'm not looking to lighten mine. Just improve it.
This seems like a simple enough cure for the overtravel. Anyone done it?
(http://s703.photobucket.com/albums/ww40/BigCheeseStick/?action-view¤t=Glockovertravelscrew.jpg)
Has anyone addressed the problem with creep? How?
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Not Glock specific, but I never mess with triggers.
I'm fussy when I buy and then I get used to what I've got.
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I have smoothed the triggers on 3 of my 4 Glocks and installed an overtravel device on the same 3.
I stone contact surfaces to remove stamping irregularities and use a dremel polishing wheel and Flitz for a high gloss finish.
I used an AGI video for the stoning instructions (the video has many other features and a lot about Glock trigger work)
You can find the video here
http://www.americangunsmith.com/app/products/view/3/Making-Glocks-Rock---The-Ultimate-Glock-Video
Here is the part I use for overtravel. This is for G21 and G30, other models available.
http://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=1056&TERM=trigger%20stop
There are many different spring/connector combinations to give you the trigger you want. You can change from a combat trigger to a target trigger in 5 min.
The video addresses the different combinations.
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That part you linked to for over travel is what I meant to post a picture of. ;D No problems with it at all?
The over travel is so bad it almost makes me hate the whole gun. :( If I could describe it, I guess the word "DOYNG!" is as close as I could get. ;D NOT confidence inspiring from a gun that I expect to be able to save my life if needed.
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What have you guys done with yours? I'm not looking to lighten mine. Just improve it.
This seems like a simple enough cure for the overtravel. Anyone done it?
(http://s703.photobucket.com/albums/ww40/BigCheeseStick/?action-view¤t=Glockovertravelscrew.jpg)
Has anyone addressed the problem with creep? How?
try using the zev tech connector with factory weight springs. I like to polish all the surfaces of the connector with a dremel wheel and jeweler's rouge.
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As defensive guns, I like to leave them how they are. I heard MB say something about mastering the Glock trigger, then being able to shoot most other triggers. That said, I did put the Glock 3 LB. connecter on a G22, along with the extended mag release and ext slide release. It is pretty slick with just those changes and makes a pretty fair target/comp gun. If I decide to use it as a defense gun, I'll replace the 5 LB. connecter to be more legally defensible.
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That part you linked to for over travel is what I meant to post a picture of. ;D No problems with it at all?
The over travel is so bad it almost makes me hate the whole gun. :( If I could describe it, I guess the word "DOYNG!" is as close as I could get. ;D NOT confidence inspiring from a gun that I expect to be able to save my life if needed.
No problems. If you get it, invest in the half length rear slide plate. It will make adjustments much easier.
If you over adjust and cannot activate the striker, you will not be able to remove the slide and will have to disassemble it with the slide locked open.
I bought a Ghost connector with the overtravel tab, but decided not to try it because you adjusted overtravel by relieving the tab. The more you took off, the less overtravel. Go to far and the part was toast. I worried wear might eventually cause it to fail, so went with the device instead.
You will also want to polish the bottom and side surfaces of the firing pin safety that protrudes from the bottom of the slide and the extension of the firing pin that extends out the bottom of the slide. Take care with the firing pin extension since it is part of the "sear" engagement and the angles should not be changed.
Link for the short slide plate http://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=523&TERM=slide%20plate
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I installed a Glockwoxs Fulcrum trigger system on my Glock 23 and am quite satisfied with it. The kit included a new firing pin and lighter weight firing pin spring. I decided to leave the standard firing pin and firing pin spring installed. Trigger pull was significantly improved, partly from the replacement trigger being wider and thus requiring less preceived effort to pull it.
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Just ordered the "LWD Ultimate Trigger Stop". Of everyone who's tried it I can't find a single bad comment other than the trouble people have from not using a cut back plate like you mention Solus. From an engineering standpoint I like it better than the other alternatives to eliminate over travel. Gonna polish out the firing pin and saftey, put her all together when the part comes and see what I've got.
I realize the LWD part is just a set screw added to the factory part, but don't already have a set screw, or tap small enough (checked). So $25 bucks for the finished part is about right. ;)
The 5lb factory break weight is perfect imo. I can't stand all that slop though.
The advertised benefits of the titanium firing pin are sure tempting to!
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Just ordered the "LWD Ultimate Trigger Stop". Of everyone who's tried it I can't find a single bad comment other than the trouble people have from not using a cut back plate like you mention Solus. From an engineering standpoint I like it better than the other alternatives to eliminate over travel. Gonna polish out the firing pin and saftey, put her all together when the part comes and see what I've got.
I realize the LWD part is just a set screw added to the factory part, but don't already have a set screw, or tap small enough (checked). So $25 bucks for the finished part is about right. ;)
The 5lb factory break weight is perfect imo. I can't stand all that slop though.
The advertised benefits of the titanium firing pin are sure tempting to!
Found someone who did a report after testing the titanium firing pin. Have no idea how accurate his tests were, but he said he used some device to measure the speed of the standard firing pin and found a way to measure the speed of the titanium one. He claimed that the reduction in lock time was enough so that, at SD ranges, your bullet would be hitting your target before the bad guys left the muzzle.
Don't know how he measured the titanium speed. The standard one was ferrous and his device could measure that.
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Thanks for starting this thread. One goal I set is to shoot 500 in a Indoor GSSF league. I might just have to improve the trigger a bit to get there. This info and links are good. Having only shot in 2 stages so far I've manage to hit 485, so I'm thinking anything to eek out an additional point or two will help.
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Just ordered the "LWD Ultimate Trigger Stop". Of everyone who's tried it I can't find a single bad comment other than the trouble people have from not using a cut back plate like you mention Solus. From an engineering standpoint I like it better than the other alternatives to eliminate over travel. Gonna polish out the firing pin and saftey, put her all together when the part comes and see what I've got.
I realize the LWD part is just a set screw added to the factory part, but don't already have a set screw, or tap small enough (checked). So $25 bucks for the finished part is about right. ;)
The 5lb factory break weight is perfect imo. I can't stand all that slop though.
The advertised benefits of the titanium firing pin are sure tempting to!
Another thing you will want to check. With the slide off, look at the high sloped surface of the tiigger mechanism. It is the part that works the firing pin safety and it is often very rough and might have a burr from the stamping. That is the surface that needed careful stoning on my Glocks. Don't want to change that angle.
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I ordered an extended mag release and back plate with the trigger stop and can't put my gun back together until the new parts get here anyway, gonna work on polishing until the new pcs come.
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The before picture. When I pulled the extractor plunger out I noticed a defect in the metal casting (near the end of the part on the left). So figured I'd attempt to polish it out to.
(http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww40/BigCheeseStick/P1020367.jpg?t=1311655489)
OF COURSE I CHEATED! I've got Flitz, but this stuff SMOKES it to our experience. And my wife uses this baby dremel (she bought at Harbor Freight for $7) to polish out gold jewelry without removing material... Pretty sure it's not going to harm hardened steel. ;)
(http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww40/BigCheeseStick/P1020370.jpg)
You can actually give your parts darn good corrosion protection by using Barbicide in an ultra-sonic cleaner. Also cleans to the point of sterilizing if needed. :-\ ;)
(http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww40/BigCheeseStick/P1020373.jpg)
End result? MIRROR PERFECT, and polished out the defect in the plunger where you cant see it at all. Note, you can still see all the machine tooling marks, so NO material was removed.
(http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww40/BigCheeseStick/P1020375.jpg)
Took about 5 minutes for all 3 parts. And if you don't already have the cheapy tool, costs $7 bucks. ;D
Kinda scared pulling the frame all apart to get to the last piece... Gotta be done though. :(
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Another 5 minutes worth of work, and you cant even tell which one of these parts was chrome plated at the factory. :) It was so easy I just gave all the parts a complete polish. But concentrated on "smoothing" the important areas.
(http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww40/BigCheeseStick/P1020385.jpg?t=1311660926)
Actually almost just falls right back together. Maybe the easiest gun to full strip that I've ever done. So if anyone else is hesitating to do this because their intimidated about getting it all back together (I was), DON'T SWEAT IT! Just do it.
(http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww40/BigCheeseStick/P1020391.jpg)
It's a shame the pictures don't show 1/10th of how shiny everything actually is.
I have no back plate, or mag. release to try the gun out cause I had ordered aftermarket ones and gave the originals away yesterday... Solus! Now you know where all those extra parts came from when you open the box with your sights in. ;)
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Thanks, BM. I'll start the DRTV Glock Spare Parts Warehouse.
I've made the same replacements you have plus a couple of guide rod lasers from LaserMAX, so I have spare guide rods for the inventory.
That was a very good video. He did a good job, showing the part after full polishing and then demonstrating how they all fit together.
The surface of the trigger bar that rides on the trigger safety was still a bit rough. That is where the stoning is used to make it completely smooth. Metal is removed, but if the angle is retained, it works. But there is where the risk of damage is and any improvement it might render might not be worth that risk.
You do good work too.
The parts in your pictures seem to have a golden color. Is that the lighting used?
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I'm not that pimp'n! ;D Weird "Full Spectrum" bulb in that room. Daylight:
(http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww40/BigCheeseStick/P1020397.jpg?t=1311689796)
The pins are polished titanium, the extended slide release and lock lever are chrome, stainless guide rod assembly, steel / tritium sights.
(http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww40/BigCheeseStick/P1020394.jpg)
Aluminum back plate, extended mag release, and the adjustable overtravel part are actually supposed to be here today.
(http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww40/BigCheeseStick/P1020401.jpg)
I LIKES TO TINKER!!! ;D ;D ;D
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Now this is interesting. I'm looking at this thing a little, and the video is misleading. I'll agree polishing the plunger and its mating surface on part number 4256-1 may have an amount of effect on trigger feel and smoothness, but primarily during the first stage of pull (the safety). The video tells you to polish the top part of 4256-1 though. This surface has nothing to do with trigger pull. It's the very back, vertical edge of 4256-1, and front face of the striker (part number 4557) that are 90% of what you feel in a Glock trigger. Aside from spring tension obviously.
(http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww40/BigCheeseStick/P1020401.jpg?t=1311701947)
(http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww40/BigCheeseStick/P1020412.jpg?t=1311702458)
When you pull the trigger 4256-1 (red arrow pointing at it) lowers. Allowing 4557 to spring forward striking the primer of your round.
(http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww40/BigCheeseStick/P10204122.jpg)
SO, concentrate your polishing accordingly. I polished the parts in their entirety, and will give the back edge of 4256-1 just a bit of stoning and polish when my parts come.
Everything to this point can in no way harm reliability. So long as your only polishing. NOT removing material. You stand to actually improve reliability a good degree.
NOW, if this were NOT a CCW gun. But were for competition, target / bench shooting, hunting, plinking. There would be two ways to remove creep. The obvious choice is to SLIGHTLY flatten out the upward bend in the rear of 4256-1, because doing so would allow you to reverse / adjust what you did as desired. The bad choice would be to remove material from / shorten the bottom of 4557 where it engages 4256-1. LET IT BE KNOWN. I DON'T RECOMMEND EITHER!!!!
And won't be doing either as this IS a CCW gun.
Again, I DON'T recommend adjusting any of these parts. And DON'T recommend removing material.
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Also, as a side note, as has been my findings on other guns besides the Glock, polished surfaces tend to make cleaning much easier.
Badger, the one gun I own, but have never gutted to "investigate" is my G27.....but now, thanks to YOU............ ;) ;D ;D
BTW, I'll swap my 27 for that 30........ ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Got my back plate in! Did another half hour of polishing and stoning. All I'll say is if you have a Glock and don't polish out these parts. Your driving a car with a flat tire! Can it be "mastered"? Sure. :-\
Yeah, the original amount of creep and over travel are still there. BUT, first and second stage of the trigger are butter smooth now. The transition between the two stages is better defined, and most important of all. Even with the original amount of creep, it's an even, smooth, PREDICTABLE pull, with a crisp, clean break. You can easily learn where it will break at every time. HUGE improvement. :)
I'd tested the pull weight before doing any of this. And it's the exact same after 5.0 lbs. Exactly 5.0 every time, and in the same part of the pull now.
Also a huge improvement in how cycling the action by hand feels (I'd polished the guide rails the slide travels on).
I can't recommend the little $7 Harbor Freight tool highly enough for this! You'd really have to try HARD to find a way to do any harm to your parts with it. I'm not even sure how you would. :-\
Where to concentrate your polishing:
(http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww40/BigCheeseStick/P1020443.jpg?t=1311890405)
I added a small taper to the sear surface by stoning it with 600 grit paper on a glass plate. Polish the end of the sear after stoning though!
(http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww40/BigCheeseStick/P1020440.jpg)
LOOK A BIRD! ;D ;D ;D
(http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww40/BigCheeseStick/P1020430.jpg)
If you give this a shot (crazy not to imo!). Post your results for us! :)
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I'm going to get mine apart either tonight or tomorrow afternoon.
Been wanting to have a go at it for a while....
Hey, we have little birdies too........and leetle leezards....... ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
(you derailed your own train, Badger!!!)
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To look at those two, your gonna have a few baby lizards tearing around soon! ;D
The only other advise I can think of for you on the Glock, is that the back pin is actually plastic, and it'll slide out like nothing. The front two will resist unless you wiggle the slide stop while you push on them. I'd suggest taking out the bottom one first while moving the slide stop around until the pin slides free. Then the top one should slide out no problem. If it catches at all, just pull out the slide stop and the pin will go out smooth. The little wire spring on the slide stop causes the pins to "catch" a bit. DON'T force anything like the chimps on Youtube though! Everything slides nice and easy when you do it right. :)
Took them a couple weeks, but we're up to 5 regulars each day now. ;D
(http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww40/BigCheeseStick/P1020426.jpg)
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All three pins in the Glock should be pushed out left to right, looking from the rear, and replaced in the reverse order.
Couple of things to note; There is a plastic firing pin sleeve that often need encouragement to come out. One of Badger's pictures showed that part removed but around the firing pin.
Another thing is that there are two tiny plastic firing pin spring cups. They are at the business end of the firing pin. They can be a bear to get reinstalled. The firing pin spring must be compressed and the two half put into place and the spring released over them. I have drilled a small hole in a work surface so that I can place the rear extension of the firing pin in the hole when I compress the spring. It supports the firing pin and keeps it from scooting around during the operation.
Next is when reinstalling the Slide Stop Lever. It has a straight wire spring that needs to be positioned properly on one of the pins. It can easily be installed on the wrong side of the pin and not provide the proper tension.
Last thing, as you will probably know, it will help to use a drift or punch to align the holes in the parts and frame, putting the drift in from left to right and then inserting the pin from right to left and letting it follow the drift out, keeping the parts aligned.
The home page of Lone Wolf Distributors has an expanded parts diagram if you want to check it out
http://www.lonewolfdist.com/
It is not a tough job at all.
Have fun
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Thanks for the info! i did much of what you did, except stoning parts, and found the trigger improved dramatically! I use a titanium striker and firing pin safety plunger too on my G35. I think they help but I'm not sure they make as much difference as polishing and stoning the parts do though.
I have thought about lightening the slide on my G30 though. Glockworx has pretty cool pictures of a G30 slide modified. But I have bigger fish to fry right now...
https://www.hydrabackoffice.com/ItemMedia/10023/10023_39374.jpg (https://www.hydrabackoffice.com/ItemMedia/10023/10023_39374.jpg)
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But I thought my G21 was a perfect pistol,....- :P
Thank you for the info BM,....as now I see the true power of the Dark Side,.....
Cookies are great...
If I can get an improvement on an otherwise gun that can "take it", I will.
Thanks again BM...I thought just putting the lower in the dishwasher was all it needed,..... ;)
What is it about these butt ugly guns that have such an attraction?
(http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm182/twyacht/1911tourney003.jpg)
8)
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More parts came! :)
How much over travel was there? The whole length of the set screw you see. A LOT!!!
(http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww40/BigCheeseStick/P1020459.jpg?t=1311966415)
GONE is the cheap plasticy DOYNG feeling! ;D ;D ;D
http://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=1057 (http://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=1057)
I think the part was $25 with shipping off Ebay. It's an original Glock part modified and sold by Lone Wolf. Took maybe 10 minutes to install and adjust.
HIGHLY RECOMMEND!!!
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Dude, yer killin' me with this stuff!!!! ;D ;D
Seriously, thanks for the great pics and info (and to all the others posting some great tips also).
I've always worked on 1911's, but this has got me really interested in the Glock mechanism and delving into them deeper.
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That lizard porn made me puke in my mouth a little... ;) JK
Pretty cool but I will keep mine factory stock.
There is a $.75 cent fix to help the trigger out on youtube. Another Glock Armorer I met told me about it but have yet to check it out. My G30SF and G21SF are perfect enough for me.
Great photos!!! Got me thinking...
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Not trying to rain on the parade here but I have to ask: For action shooting (USPSA/IDPA) and self defense applications, does it really matter how much take up or over travel there is in the trigger (not necessarily a Glock-specific question)? If you believe it matters for these applications, please explain why. I just want to know what your opinion is. And keep in mind I'm not talking about slow-fire applications like bullseye or hunting.
I have been shooting competition for a few years and I have never noticed, while in the course of fire, how much take up or over travel there was/is in the trigger. And some of you may remember that I used my G30 in self defense several years ago. I can tell you in that moment it never occurred to me how much grit, take up, or over travel there was in the trigger either.....
But if for no other reason it's because you can, that's darn good enough for me! ;D ;D
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Trigger pull and cycle time (your cycle time more so than the guns) will have every bit as much to do with your performance no matter if your shooting at a humming bird or a raving lunatic with an AK47 pointed at you. How much you happen to notice their effect is irrelevant to end result.
Regardless of the skill level of the shooter, a firearm that’s more efficient and easier to operate is just that. You'll reap the benefits whether you notice them (realize it) or not.
The best driver in the world is at a disadvantage if he's in an inferior car.
From an engineering standpoint (I'm mechanical engineer), the polished parts will by all reason I can see add to the consistant opperation, and reliability the machine as well.
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Trigger pull and cycle time (your cycle time more so than the guns) will have every bit as much to do with your performance no matter if your shooting at a humming bird or a raving lunatic with an AK47 pointed at you. How much you happen to notice their effect is irrelevant to end result.
Regardless of the skill level of the shooter, a firearm that’s more efficient and easier to operate is just that. You'll reap the benefits whether you notice them (realize it) or not.
The best driver in the world is at a disadvantage if he's in an inferior car.
From an engineering standpoint (I'm mechanical engineer), the polished parts will by all reason I can see add to the consistant opperation, and reliability the machine as well.
Thanks Badger!
I haven't looked at it that way before.
A concise and cogent answer; which I would expect from a PE..... ;)
As an aside I worked with PEs for about 9 years (civil engineering). You guys earn that designation (PE) the hard way....
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I guess I'm the type of guy (having worked nearly 20 years in the mechanical/electrical field with some machine shop thrown in) who would fabricate my own parts when possible. I've been a "tinkerer" since childhood and always fascinated by mechanical things and trying to get the best performance (without detriment to reliability) possible.
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Never seems to be anything "professional" about the situations we get put in. ;)
Peg, Any hardware store is going to have an adequate set screw. Drill bit you likely have, tap, you can get at any tool store. WALLA!
Just watch out for cheap taps! I opened a couple different sets at Harbor Freight and other "tool stores" before and OMG! The threads were so rough you could do a better job with a butter knife! It's possible Lowes has the screw and a good quality tap. :-\ I do know they've got bronze washers... Shim the side to side play of the trigger blade maybe... Hmmmm. ;)
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You probably already thought of this, but, on the bronze washers, get several of the thinnest ones you can find so you can build up to where you minimize slop with out binding.
It's a lot easier to add a couple more thin washers than it is to file down thick ones. ;D
On the Tap's, Greenfield is a pretty good brand.
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You probably already thought of this, but, on the bronze washers, get several of the thinnest ones you can find so you can build up to where you minimize slop with out binding.
It's a lot easier to add a couple more thin washers than it is to file down thick ones. ;D
On the Tap's, Greenfield is a pretty good brand.
I'd agree...don't waste your time at Lowes unless it's a name brand. Their store brand of tools is junk for the most part.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/taps/machine-cutting-tools/machining/ecatalog/N-c8yZ1z13d2e?op=search&sst=subset
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Surprisingly, ( or maybe not ) the stuff the Israeli's are turning out is pretty darn good.
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I was just trying to think of where the average Joe can get stuff. Grainger won't give you the time of day without a commercial account. I luckily have access to one, but not everybody is going to. I agree 100% on "Greenfields". It's what the company bench stock uses, and they've done well by me anyway. :-\
I personally would never shim a Glock. But have done it to plenty of 10/22's (PIA!). You don't notice how much little things like that slop matter until you eliminate them and feel the difference! ;)
I think my "Glock tampering" is officially complete! ;D
Well, once the extended mag release comes in! ;D ;D ;D
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Ahhhhh! All done, ready for the range. ;D
Yeah, yeah, yeah. It's ninja, but I couldn't resist the "Puninsher". :-[ ;D
(http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww40/BigCheeseStick/P1020470.jpg?t=1312064682)
(http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww40/BigCheeseStick/P1020472.jpg?t=1312064758)
(http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww40/BigCheeseStick/P1020463.jpg?t=1312065050)
(http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww40/BigCheeseStick/P1020473.jpg?t=1312064682)
New IWB holster that won't hit the mag release on the way. ;) We'll see how that works out. :-\ Worth trying imo.
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Cool Badger, very cool....the silver pins and slide stop really draw the eye......and I kinda like the contrast.
I'm good to go on taps, anything from 3-56 shotgun beads up to 1 1/2"-NC ( ;D ). I have one entire drawer of a Craftsman tool box dedicated just to taps.....and another to drill bits.....and another to....well, you get the picture. ;D
We have a Grainger retail store about 35 miles away and they will sell to us because we have an LLC farm business. I used to prefer McMaster-Carr, but the Grainger gives us a good discount through our farm insurance company (go figure).
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Very nice job Badgersmilk.
The Punisher is one of my favorite comic book characters. Unfortunately, Hollywood cannot make a decent "Punisher" movie to save their life... :( I have a collection of Punisher comic books that I bought while serving in Italy. Cool stuff.
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Very nice job Badgersmilk.
The Punisher is one of my favorite comic book characters. Unfortunately, Hollywood cannot make a decent "Punisher" movie to save their life... :( I have a collection of Punisher comic books that I bought while serving in Italy. Cool stuff.
Thanks! I can't help it, I just get a laugh out of the idea of a gun being labeled "The Punisher". Now what some prosecuting attorney may think of it one day might be a different story! "It was like that when I got it your honor, I had no idea!" ;D
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Thanks! I can't help it, I just get a laugh out of the idea of a gun being labeled "The Punisher". Now what some prosecuting attorney may think of it one day might be a different story! "It was like that when I got it your honor, I had no idea!" ;D
Honest, I thought it was Casper, The Friendly Ghost.
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Honest, I thought it was Casper, The Friendly Ghost.
And, if you squint a little, it kinda looks like Tweety's head on a pole. ;D ;D ;D
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Just tell them you couldn't find a "Hello Kitty" one. ;D
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Just finished doing the "buff-job" on my G27........AND.........WOW, I didn't think it would make that big of a difference, but it did. My G27 always had a better trigger than most other Glocks I have shot but it is light years better now. I wish I had done this years ago. Mine doesn't have that much over-travel, so I doubt I fool with that now.
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Just finished doing the "buff-job" on my G27........AND.........WOW, I didn't think it would make that big of a difference, but it did. My G27 always had a better trigger than most other Glocks I have shot but it is light years better now. I wish I had done this years ago. Mine doesn't have that much over-travel, so I doubt I fool with that now.
Old thread revival
I just did my G27 and I'm with Peg, nice difference! The damn dog ate one of my spring cups but I had another set in standby. That was the only glitch.
Doing the 23 was a snap after doing the first one. I replaced the lighter weight connector with the standard pull weight, the light one was a little too light. Not knowing all the ins and outs of a Glock I'm curious why the trigger reset feels so much better. Seems much more pronounced now. I like it! ;D
Re: connectors - I thought the "- sign" on the connector was for a 3.5#, (what I thought I had), but the Glock site shows it is 4.5#.
Didn't they make a 3.5# one for competition or was that aftermarket?
It was worth taking the gun all the way down to pieces-parts just to clear out all the crud that had built up in the slide. Not having done that before to either Glock, I was surprised how much was there.
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Old thread revival
I just did my G27 and I'm with Peg, nice difference! The damn dog ate one of my spring cups but I had another set in standby. That was the only glitch.
Doing the 23 was a snap after doing the first one. I replaced the lighter weight connector with the standard pull weight, the light one was a little too light. Not knowing all the ins and outs of a Glock I'm curious why the trigger reset feels so much better. Seems much more pronounced now. I like it! ;D
Re: connectors - I thought the "- sign" on the connector was for a 3.5#, (what I thought I had), but the Glock site shows it is 4.5#.
Didn't they make a 3.5# one for competition or was that aftermarket?
It was worth taking the gun all the way down to pieces-parts just to clear out all the crud that had built up in the slide. Not having done that before to either Glock, I was surprised how much was there.
Did you get that dog from FQ ? ;D
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Old thread revival
I just did my G27 and I'm with Peg, nice difference! The damn dog ate one of my spring cups but I had another set in standby. That was the only glitch.
Doing the 23 was a snap after doing the first one. I replaced the lighter weight connector with the standard pull weight, the light one was a little too light. Not knowing all the ins and outs of a Glock I'm curious why the trigger reset feels so much better. Seems much more pronounced now. I like it! ;D
Re: connectors - I thought the "- sign" on the connector was for a 3.5#, (what I thought I had), but the Glock site shows it is 4.5#.
Didn't they make a 3.5# one for competition or was that aftermarket?
It was worth taking the gun all the way down to pieces-parts just to clear out all the crud that had built up in the slide. Not having done that before to either Glock, I was surprised how much was there.
Don't know if it matters, but did you find the channel liner and spacer sleeve? They hide in the striker channel and are often over looked. You might find some extra crud under/around them.
The extractor channel is another place to check. The Extractor Depressor Plunger can rust from accumulated moisture.
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Old thread revival
I just did my G27 and I'm with Peg, nice difference! The damn dog ate one of my spring cups but I had another set in standby. That was the only glitch.
Doing the 23 was a snap after doing the first one. I replaced the lighter weight connector with the standard pull weight, the light one was a little too light. Not knowing all the ins and outs of a Glock I'm curious why the trigger reset feels so much better. Seems much more pronounced now. I like it! ;D
Re: connectors - I thought the "- sign" on the connector was for a 3.5#, (what I thought I had), but the Glock site shows it is 4.5#.
Didn't they make a 3.5# one for competition or was that aftermarket?
It was worth taking the gun all the way down to pieces-parts just to clear out all the crud that had built up in the slide. Not having done that before to either Glock, I was surprised how much was there.
Amen to that.
I've had my G27 since Feb of 2004 (bought it as a "wheelchair CCW gun"), but have never bothered to tear it down to the component level.................. I thought it would be more of a 'nightmare' than it really was. I really must give 'props' to the designer of this mechanism.
You wouldn't think crap could build up in some of the places it does. ;D
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Don't know if it matters, but did you find the channel liner and spacer sleeve? They hide in the striker channel and are often over looked. You might find some extra crud under/around them.
The extractor channel is another place to check. The Extractor Depressor Plunger can rust from accumulated moisture.
I left the channel liner in place and just cleaned the inside with a patch wrapped around a .22 rifle brush. Everything got blasted with polymer safe gun scrubber prior to polishing.
I've never had any rust except for the first set of tritium sights that were on it. Tip o' the hat to BreakFree.
Even tucked under my fat gut in AZ summers, (6 of them?), this didn't have a speck of rust anywhere.