The Down Range Forum
Member Section => Tactical Rifle & Carbine => Topic started by: fullautovalmet76 on August 11, 2011, 10:06:50 PM
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I plan to pick up my new Ruger GSR tomorrow. I know it's been covered on here before, but it's late and I don't feel like searching for it. But I'll ask anyway:
When breaking in the barrel, should I shoot a round and clean it, then shoot a few more and clean again? Or what is the scoop on this? I had other rifles before but I never paid any attention to breaking in the barrel, I just wanted to shoot the rifle! But now I want to do this the "right" way.
According to ballistics tables, isn't the zero on a .308 round approximately the same at 50 and 200 yds?
Of course, your opinions and suggestions are always appreciated!
Thanks!
-FA
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You know FA I have never in my life done it. I open the box, run a patch, shoot the thing and clean it after I'm done. I get the accuracy advertised give or take from the bench. Now, maybe I'm missing out. Maybe cleaning after every shot makes a difference, although I don't see how. Is the heat or friction going to embed powder residue, and if so why on the 9th shot and not the 300th? Maybe I'm missing something.
Look, you spent a bunch of money on a cool new gun, and my advice is to do whatever makes you feel comfortable. Personally I don't see the need to clean between shots, but do what makes you happy and screw what anyone else thinks.
FQ13
PS Enjoy the new toy! :)
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I copied a post from a few years ago on the subject (and linked to the old thread).
I'm mixed on the matter to an extent.
I've posted links (Lilja, Shilen) several times to several premium barrel makers who have differing opinions. One says it needs to be done, one says it doesn't and is a waste, and several say it's not needed but you might as well because it can't hurt.
I feel it all depends on who made the barrel and whether it is factory or after-market.....best thing is to check with the manufacturer.
How should I break-in my new Shilen barrel?
Break-in procedures are as diverse as cleaning techniques. Shilen, Inc. introduced a break-in procedure mostly because customers seemed to think that we should have one. By and large, we don't think breaking-in a new barrel is a big deal. All our stainless steel barrels have been hand lapped as part of their production, as well as any chrome moly barrel we install. Hand lapping a barrel polishes the interior of the barrel and eliminates sharp edges or burrs that could cause jacket deformity. This, in fact, is what you are doing when you break-in a new barrel through firing and cleaning.
Here is our standard recommendation: Clean after each shot for the first 5 shots. The remainder of the break-in is to clean every 5 shots for the next 50 shots. During this time, don't just shoot bullets down the barrel during this 50 shot procedure. This is a great time to begin load development. Zero the scope over the first 5 shots, and start shooting for accuracy with 5-shot groups for the next 50 shots. Same thing applies to fire forming cases for improved or wildcat cartridges. Just firing rounds down a barrel to form brass without any regard to their accuracy is a mistake. It is a waste of time and barrel life.
http://www.shilen.com/faq.html#question10
Lilja
I have not seen any real reason to use a dry lubricant on bullets as an effort to reduce fouling. With a proper barrel break-in, a top quality lapped barrel, and normal cleaning procedures, fouling just does not appear to be a major problem. We have now available some excellent bore cleaners that do a great job of removing the powder and jacket fouling that does accumulate. My personal favorite is Butch's Bore Shine.
It is important to break-in a barrel though. The jacket material must be removed after every shot during the initial few rounds. If this isn't done the areas of the barrel that fouled will tend to pick up more fouling and it will build on itself. It is important to get a layer of powder fouling on top of the lands & grooves. This hard deposit will prevent the copper from stripping off the bullets. However, if the internal finish of the barrel is too rough the barrel will never be completely broken-in and fouling will always be a problem. Some barrels can't be broken-in.
A similar phenomonon can exist if the shooter uses an abrasive-type cleaner too often. The abrasives are very effective at removing all traces of both powder and jacket fouling. I mentioned that a barrel can be too smooth. The abrasives can get a barrel too clean as well and in effect the shooter is rebreaking-in the barrel again every time he cleans. This can end up in the dog-chasing-his-tail scenario. The shooter thinks the barrel is a fouler, as evidenced by the copper accumulations in the barrel. He works hard at removing the copper, resorting to using an abrasive cleaner. But when he does he removes the desirable layer of carbon fouling left by the powder and exposes fresh steel ready to grab some more copper off the bullet on the next shot. The cycle repeats itself. Like the dog the best way out is to go lay down and take a nap.
http://www.riflebarrels.com/articles/barrel_making/barrel_fouling.htm
http://www.downrange.tv/forum/index.php?topic=9451.0
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In addition from Peg's post, here's one from Krieger about removing the burrs from the throat resulting from the chamber reamer:
http://www.kriegerbarrels.com/Break_In__Cleaning-c1246-wp2558.htm
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Gale McMillian on barrel break in's. Bill T.
http://www.6mmbr.com/gailmcmbreakin.html
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I've heard arguments both ways. On one hand I have heard the argument from respected gun writers that "break in" is a waste of ammo.
On the other hand my machining experience, including reaming chambers for T/C, makes the "deburring" sound really sensible.
Shoot one round, then punch the bore, repeat 5-10 times is the method I have always heard recommended.
Myself, I would go with 5 rounds then look it over with a good bore light.