The Down Range Forum
Member Section => Reloading => Topic started by: alfsauve on January 30, 2012, 07:24:09 AM
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I've search over on Accurate Reloading, but haven't seen this addressed.
I read somewhere (don't remember) that if you clean with walnut shells it will leave an oily residue that could impact your powder. I've always prefered Walnut shells because they're harder than pecan or corn media, but I've never had a problem....
Of course, never, until now. Several rounds out of a batch of 500 were squibs. Being practically perfect, I obviously didn't forget to put powder in the case ;D
In the past I've used generic stuff that I've bought at gun shows with no brand name. Looked dry and my cases came out clean. Last year I obtained some "professional" walnut stuff from MidSouth. These cases are the first I've cleaned with it and they came out with a lot of "dust" on them. I used a blower to pretty much clean them.
was wondering if you have had any problems along this line.
I'll be querying MidSouth this week to see if they can shed any light.
I mean, look it can't be me that's at fault.
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Any chance that some of the cases had bits of walnut shell in the flash hole ?
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Alf, never had a problem w/walnut...generic or otherwise. Have no clue what could be the problem except temporarry bridging opf the powder in the measure causing charge weights to vary.
tom, unless Alf cleaned the cases after priming the de-capping pin should clear the flash hole so that shouldn't be a problem.
FWIW
Richard
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Can't give any technical advice outside of personal experience:
We polish with walnut shells, and we have "recharged" them with additive. I shot some last Wednesday that were reloaded over two years ago, and power was no problem. My rounds do have an oily film on them. Enough that I need to clean my hands after loading mags or clips.
The only issue I have had with reloads is my own issue. I tend to get a little tough on the arm. I rattle the machine, and I occasionally get primers on their sides or upside down.
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Alf, never had a problem w/walnut...generic or otherwise. Have no clue what could be the problem except temporarry bridging opf the powder in the measure causing charge weights to vary.
tom, unless Alf cleaned the cases after priming the de-capping pin should clear the flash hole so that shouldn't be a problem.
FWIW
Richard
+1
While there are some that will polish after decapping. Everyone I knows polishes the spent brass before they do anything else: Retrieve, polish, inspect, run through the reloader, shoot, repeat.
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No, no. I deprimed AFTER I cleaned them. So I don't think there was media stuck in the primer hole.
I was hoping it was the media, because the only other explanation, is I fell asleep while reloading and somehow missed putting powder in about 10 rounds. Can't be! Tell me it isn't so.
My next step is to dump the current media and start fresh. I got a bag of Lyman Tuff Nut and will try it next. I'll check with MidSouth. I think though long term is I'll get the plain, no additives, walnut stuff from PetSmart. (lizard litter). A whole lot cheaper, too.
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Were you using the LnL? Should be hard to miss powder on it?
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Decapped cases would have been easy to spot media in the OUTSIDE of the flash hole, what about the INSIDE ?
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No, no. I deprimed AFTER I cleaned them. So I don't think there was media stuck in the primer hole.
I was hoping it was the media
My next step is to dump the current media and start fresh.
I doubt it. No need to dump the media. I've been using the same walnut shell for 3+ years.
A little added polish, (Frankfort Arsensal from Midway), over that time but still the same stuff.
Possibly pilot error... ;)
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Tom, the pin goes from the inside out so media is pushed out/thru. Media should be sifted out before loading! Might be a problem w/one but not ten (I would think).
Richard
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Yep, 500 rounds with the LnL and about 10 were squibs. (I'm an expert in driving them out of the barrel now.)
I'm in denial that it was my fault. I only remember one, "oops", incident that distracted my attention while reloading that batch, but I can't think of another explanation. That couldn't have accounted for more than 1 or 2 of the squibs.
I did dump the old stuff and started a batch with Tuff Nut last night.
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Probably a stupid question Alf but what about the powder you used, have you inspected the remaining powder, ie poured it out on a piece of clean white paper and checked it to make sure there is no contaminates, or moisture affected etc?
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Probably a stupid question Alf but what about the powder you used, have you inspected the remaining powder, ie poured it out on a piece of clean white paper and checked it to make sure there is no contaminates, or moisture affected etc?
Hi Sledge. Yeah, I've wondered about the powder, but it was a 4lb can and these were loaded out of the "middle". Nothing before or since has exhibited a problem. It could be I contaminated the powder "in" the case, but I'm not sure how. Could just having oily fingers and handling the bullets be enough to cause problems? I think (memory is fuzzy at these high numbers) I loaded these in one sitting, but bagged them in lots of 100. The squibs were spread out among the bags.
I think, somehow, and I'm still in denial, that the powder didn't drop or I skipped a stage. Whatever, it was my fault. Which is a real bummer to face up to. The strange thing is it has only occurred with the .45ACP. And the only difference is that the reloading process gets interrupted with small primer and swaged primer pockets which causes me to have to remove a round from the reloader.
I'll figure it out eventually. Meanwhile, brass rods and a small hammer are my buddies. ;D
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I am assuming the projectiles exited the barrel?
Was their any unburnt powder left?
If not then I suspect you might be right about no powder dropping.
Do you have any left of the batch you reloaded, it might be worth weighing them or even shaking them to see if you can feel the powder moving about.
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Hi;
Is it possible for the problem to be in the primer? Can a small amount of lube have been on the inside part of the primer ?
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I am assuming the projectiles exited the barrel?
Was their any unburnt powder left?
If not then I suspect you might be right about no powder dropping.
Do you have any left of the batch you reloaded, it might be worth weighing them or even shaking them to see if you can feel the powder moving about.
Dipisc, no the primers functioned. At least well enough to drive the bullet into the barrel.
Sledge, no the primers functioned well enough to get the bullet just past the forcing cone. I didn't see any powder but since it's only about 5 grains I'm really not sure. Mostly this happened in my revolver so some of the powder could have been driven out the gap. I should have been more careful in checking.
I tried weighing the cases, but since we're talking about +/- 5 grains and I use mixed cases it isn't always clear. I did find one, but missed 3 others.
Nope, I've shot that batch completely up. Other calibers loaded around the same time period show no problems.
I probably got distracted by the small primer cases and somehow just blew it.
Had a double charge yesterday with .44 magnum. For the life of me I can't figure out how I double pumped it. Fortunately, it was filled near the top and I knew immediately to pull that round. Maybe I'm going senile.
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Afl, perhaps you should take a look at Dillon's Powder Check device.
http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/pid/23805/catid/3/Dillon_Powder_Check
The rod with the nut to the left of the die adjusts the device so that the rod pushes the micro switch on the bottom of the blue box when the shell plate is at the top of it's travel. This activates the micro switch on the side of the blue box.
Use one of the three rods with the brass tip (depending upon caliber) and adjust it so that the thick rod with the indent is positioned atop a correctly charged case (the brass tip rests on the powder) so that the micro switch sticking out of the side of the blue box is in the indent at the top of the piston travel.
If the charge is over or under, that micro switch will be out of the indentation and will be pressed and trigger an alarm.
You might not be able to or want to use Dillon's, but you have shown us some gadgets you have worked up for your LnL. This is one you should have. Inaccurate powder charge is the most dangerous aspect of a progressive reloader.
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I'm not opposed to Dillon or their accessories. In fact I recommend them if you're only going to do one caliber, all the time.
Up until now I've never had reason to doubt the powder charges.
My problem is I use all 5 stations already and don't have a place to put this die without going to powder-through-expander arrangement. I could make final crimp a separate step, though it means running the rounds through the press twice. Three times for 9mm.
I think my real problem was I fell asleep (spaced out) and when I was interrupted by a small primer or crimped primer pocket I somehow skipped through a stage. I need to pay more attention. I'm working on mounting an LED under the die holders so that the inside of the shell is brightly lit. I'm just hesitating on drilling a hole through the top of my press. Maybe I can adapt it to the center hole.
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This will be available soon for the 650 center hole. Maybe the it will work with your LnL also?
http://www.uniquetek.com/site/696296/product/T1255
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Cool. I have a USB powered LED on a flex arm. I may make a "plug" to hold it in the center hole.
I'm still debating the powder checker thing.
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Cool. I have a USB powered LED on a flex arm. I may make a "plug" to hold it in the center hole.
I'm still debating the powder checker thing.
Have a look here Alf - http://www.inlinefabrication.com/
Some cool gadgets for reloading including LED lights, powder/primer sensors etc
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That gave me some ideas. Cool site. Thanks.
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Very good link, Sledge....
I like the lights....seems I can never get enough light on my work areas ..
Thanks..