The Down Range Forum
Member Section => Down Range Cafe => Topic started by: Pathfinder on August 29, 2013, 10:39:49 AM
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New wife has graciously allowed me ample space in the lower level to start my man cave. Here's the first part. Locking cabinet and 60" long shelves are next.
This is a Liberty (Made in the USA!!!) safe, 30-gun. Internal outlet and lights are ordered, and I will be anchoring it to the floor shortly. Concrete on 2 adjacent walls, and I'll be adding a wall across this whole part of the lower level for a "work" room. There's a fireplace in the opposite corner, so I'm hoping I can get away with converting the whole lower level to my cave . . . . ;D
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Sounds like a plan. Keep us informed so we can drool along.
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Good start! I'll make a sacrifice to the gods of manliness in your name.
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Good start.
Because of the renovations, I've moved out of the furnace/store room into a separate room in the basement. I'll have to straighten up some and take pictures. Got my "winning" targets hanging around the walls.
I too put my safe up on wooden blocks. Makes it easier to get the dolly's underneath it and in the event of water in the basement keeps the safe high and dry. Also easier to get to the things near the bottom.
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i would reconmend some type of mansonary rather than wood. it can't rot. i actually pored a small pad for mine to be bolted too( addional reason for the pad, alot stronger then drilled or epoxy anchors)
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i would reconmend some type of mansonary rather than wood. it can't rot. i actually pored a small pad for mine to be bolted too( addional reason for the pad, alot stronger then drilled or epoxy anchors)
I helped a friend anchor his Liberty safes in his shop years ago. We cut up the concrete floor where they were going and dug 2' down for each of the four anchor points on each one. We used 1" stainless threaded rod that came in 3' lengths and set them in high strength cement, capped them with 1/2" plate, and then re-poured the concrete over the plate with the 1" rod sticking up about 6" above grade. We then formed and poured two runners around the exposed rods so the safes would sit on them like pads about 4" off the floor. We drilled 1" holes in the safe floors to correspond to the threaded rod and bolted them down with an extra 1/4" plate in the bottom of the safes. Needless to say, they ain't going anywhere anytime soon....... and he was also talking about later on pouring walls or using steel plate to box them in completely. I don't know if he ever did that, as we lost touch over the years.
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I used S bolts and steal plates. It would be easier to use the 14" concreate saw that is in th cabinet in the garage, then to try to move it with out un bolting. L)