The Down Range Forum
Member Section => Handguns => Topic started by: tman on June 20, 2008, 03:15:16 PM
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I know most of you shooters have more knowledge than I, so my question is, what do you use for lubrication on your weapons, I know there must be a lot available, but I would like to see what you consider the best.
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Gun Butter
http://www.gunbutter.com/
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I use Tetra oil and grease almost exclusiveley now.
I switched from Breakfree 'cause they didn't have a grease. I had used BF for years and still will if its within arms reach.
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I use BreakFree and WD40 when needed
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MY FAVORITE 2 ARE FP-10 FOR THE LIQUID, AND BROWNELL'S ACTION MAGIC GREASE. GUN BUTTER IS VERY GOOD, AND GOOD OLD MILITARY LSA. SPRAY DRI SLIDE MOLYBEDNUM DISULFIDE, IS VERY DRY AND WORKS FOR DIRTY ENVIRONMENTS LIKE .22 RF.
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M25, Caps lock stuck? ;D
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Our caps locks are always on for printing invoices. SORRY!!!!
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Rem-Oil, Kroils, Gun Butter, Hoppes, Bullfrog.
Like Teflon on ice, No Friction.... 8)
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How is that Gun Butter stuff with regards to attracting pocket lint? Does your carry gun seem to attract more or less with that stuff on it?
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How is that Gun Butter stuff with regards to attracting pocket lint? Does your carry gun seem to attract more or less with that stuff on it?
After a cleaning and "lube job", for the pistol I carry, I will be sure to get all excess lube, oil, etc,.. off with a dry patch or cleaning cloth. Lint doesn't seem an issue, I kinda have OCD when it comes to maint. Self confessed gun fondler, wife sometimes gets jealous.
I did have some lint in my P3AT after a couple of days, when I carried front pocket, but a quick patch in 5-10 minutes takes care of that.
If its going "in storage" for a bit, I don't leave it wet, but leave a slight coating on it for the humidity here in coastal NC.
I usually carry IWB in the 7:00 position (left-handed), and it isn't an issue.
A clean gun is a happy gun. 8)
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Break Free ONLY
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Break Free. Tetra Grease when I feel it needs it.
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Switched to Mobile 1 Syn.
Montana Extreme solvent.
Mac.
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Switched to Mobile 1 Syn.
Montana Extreme solvent.
Mac.
I heard, but hard to believe using motor oil on firearms, was also told law enforcement agencies use Mobile 1 Syn. How do you apply it, a Qtip?
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I began using Corrosion X several years ago with excellent results. Prior to that I used Hoppes which was fine for range guns but lacking when hunting.
Addict
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Kroil. http://www.kanolabs.com/ (http://www.kanolabs.com/)
KanoLabs make MANY different types of high quality lubrication products.
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After WD-40 for cleaning, the high friction areas get a Q-tip application of Break Free CLP.
I have been using this combo for years. My environment is mostly dry. I haven't tested this combo for swamps, arctic, etc.
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I've heard Militech is good and the troops over in the sandbox rave about it.
http://www.militec1.com/
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I have posted on this before. Years ago when I was still on active duty I saw a very impressive demonstration of MilTech at the Association of the US Army annual meeting and show in Washington. I have been using MilTech ever since on my pistols. I also use BreakFree CLP as instructed in the M16 Tech Manual on my AR. And I have no problems using it on my pistols if that is what is handy.
Re motor oil, it is good stuff. Many units were using it on their weapons back when I was on active duty. In answer to the question of how to use it, units usually had tubs filled with it and just dipped the appropriate parts in it and wiped as needed.
The important thing is to keep autoloaders lubed. I have come to feel that what you use is less important than the fact that you are using something. That said, I will say that WD40 is great for many things, but my guns are not one of those things. I used WD40 for several years, but it has several good properties that make it bad for my gun use. 1. It is a very good penetration oil that will ruin your primers if you are not very, very careful. And sometimes even if you are careful. 2. It leaves a film, this is a good thing for some uses, but the film has a habit of building up on your firearm in hard to reach places turning into crud holding goo, which over time is not a good thing. I found this to be especially true on .22s and .12 ga autoloaders.
I also use grease for the places specified in the TMs for the M1 and M1 Carbine. I still have some of the Army issue Lubriplate but have also been using the Remington Hinge Grease lately as the supply of Lubriplate has dwindled to see how that will work for the M1 applications. I have found it to be good so far and I use it in more places now, such as on the M1 op rod end for about eight inches down to keep the carbon fouling at bay -- I would not have done that one in the old days. I also have been using it on the op rod springs for both the M1 and M1 Carbine with good results so far. I haven't seen Lubriplate for sale for years. That is too bad, but there does seem to be replacements available that are useful in more applications.
Hope this helps. I think I wrote more than you need to know. Its an engineer thing I guess.
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motor oil is not a good choice. It needs to be heated and persurised to provide lubracation.
WD 40 is also a poor choice for lubrcation, its great for removing water( not protecting metal, removing water) which is was it was designed for. So if you get your gun wet, by all means use WD, but don't use it as a cleaner or a lube.
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How is that Gun Butter stuff with regards to attracting pocket lint? Does your carry gun seem to attract more or less with that stuff on it?
What I found is that if I carry closer to the front, my belly-button acts like a magnet to pull any and all lint away from my weapon. ;D
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motor oil is not a good choice. It needs to be heated and pressurized to provide lubrication.
WD 40 is also a poor choice for lubrication, its great for removing water( not protecting metal, removing water) which is was it was designed for. So if you get your gun wet, by all means use WD, but don't use it as a cleaner or a lube.
I've heard that WD leaves a film that over time builds up and can foul the weapon. True?
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I've heard that WD leaves a film that over time builds up and can foul the weapon. True?
It does leave a film when it evaporates( that also contains all the grit that was in it when it was sprayed on.) so I would have to say yes.
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With the exception of Aerokroil, using gun specific cleaner, oil, grease, is preferred. Like washing your car with Dawn dishwashing liquid, sure its clean, but your clear-coat and wax have been washed away too.
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I've heard that WD leaves a film that over time builds up and can foul the weapon. True?
I've heard (Here and on Gun Talk ) that WD 40 is just about the worst possible thing you can use on firearms as it builds up a nasty residue. I don't know myself as I've always used either Breakfree or Hoppes products.
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We use Hoppes cleaner and then a little Hoppes oil...regular and when we have it, the super stuff (I forget the name...black bottle. We have never had a problem, but then we clean every time we shoot, so it's always about like new with a slight sheen of oil on the contact spots. We rarely shoot more than a couple hundred rounds at a time.
If I was going to go shoot a LOT, I'd probably take a little oil with me in case.
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I like to use Tetra Gunblaster for removing fouling after range practice and then Tetra Light Lubricating and Cleaning Oil spray for lightly lubing the outside of all my guns. I use Tetra Bore Conditioner for barrel lubrication and buffing with a mop and then Gun Butter for all internal lubrication purposes. I even use Gun Butter instead of grease for the lugs on my 1911. Gun Butter is tremendous as it lubes as well as anything I've tried, stays in place exactly wherever you apply it regardless of gravity and repels dirt. I routinely pocket carry a PPK that is lubricated with Gun Butter and never have the lightest problem with lint. They now make a Gun Butter grease that I have yet to try as the Gun Butter oil works so well, but I may try some for use on my 1911 lugs and trigger.
I went with the Tetra products I mentioned when I read that Nighthawk gunsmiths use Tetra products exclusively as they had tried everything and believe Tetra works the best on their custom 1911s. As I have a Government 1911 made by Nighthawk I figured I'd give Tetra products a try and have been very pleased.
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I have used WD-40 for cleaning guns for years and not noticed any "build-up" on my parts surfaces. If the extent of your gun cleaning ritual is hosing WD-40 down the barrel, then build-up of grease and other gunk will occur, but that will happen with any oil based solvent treated in the same manner. The problem with that is improper cleaning technique, not product. As for killing primers, I don't clean loaded guns. A good read on primer kills is here http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/bot39.htm. Like i've posted before Break Free CLP is the lube I use after cleaning.
I have noticed a crust forms on parts with repeated applications of Gun Scrubber(a hose on and let dry solvent, unlike WD-40).
WD-40 is cheap, availible almost anywhere, and is a great gun cleaning solvent.
No, I don't work for WD-40.
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I mainly use Hoppes to clean and oil but I'm also a tinkerer and like to see what different things do. The MiliTech guy demoed it for us a while back and they are always give away items at local matches so I have plenty. I use regular gun oil on th eGlock and the Militech on the 1911 and haven't noticed anything major. Some people don't like MiliTech as it has less corrosion preventive properties but I haven't seen any in the last four years here with plenty of humidity and precipitation. I was thinking of getting some of Brian Enos' lube or Gun Butter but haven't yet
For a while I was cleaning with a commercial grade degreaser my wife's company had a crap load of samples from and it did ok for the major surfaces but didn't do so hot in the barrel plus it stripped off ANY lube film so it needed a good coat of something afterward.
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I decided to try Gun Butter, let you know the results.
http://www.gunbutter.com/gunbutter.htm
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I was just reading an article that said Automatic Transmission Fluid is great. There is a pretty good breakdown on different products good, bad and ugly. Take a look.
http://www.grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html
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KW,
That was just posted in another thread here couple of days ago. Interesting stuff!