The Down Range Forum
Member Section => Down Range Cafe => Topic started by: Ranger Dave on August 02, 2014, 05:41:38 PM
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Ok guys I need help. My 1995 GMC Suburban wont shift out of 2nd gear. I was a quart low on fluid which I replaced with no change. I have posted my problem on the Chevy Talk forum. They said if there was an issue it would go into defualt mode and not shift out of 2nd gear. They told me to pull the engine codes. I pulled the codes and got o2 sensor, MAP sensor and a code for running rich. I am waiting on replies from the chevy forum if any of you have ideas or suggestions fire away
Thanks
Ranger Dave
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Found this link. Several folks are offering suggesttions.
https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20081224183901AAdlIfA
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While you wait, let me offer the smarta.. answer.
Friends don't let friends drive Government Motors vehicles.
Things are so complicated now. How does one figure an O2 sensor would force a transmission into 2nd gear? I tore down and reassembled a lawnmower engine when I was 11. Now it takes a PHd to change the oil. (No I don't have a PHd, hence, embarrassingly, I pay someone else to do it these days.)
In another direction: Excellent novel on what it might be like in a catastrophic event is One Second After. Based on the idea of a massive EMP strike it shows what the author thinks might happen to society when everything stops working because all the electronics are fried.
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Rule out simple stuff first....you began with the fluid which is the best place to start.
Drive a few miles to heat up and then stop and pull the dipstick and smell the fluid. Does it smell burnt or bad? If so, you might have some bands slipping.
Next thing I'd check is physically under the vehicle.
Check to make sure there are no wires pulled away from harnesses or plugs. There should be a speed sensor plug near the rear of the trans...if that is loose or disconnected, the ECM can't read the speed and will stop it from shifting correctly.
I had a friend whose dog grabbed a wire loom on his trans and snatched it loose. I've also known of debris on the highway knocking wires loose.
There are a couple of things internally that are "simple to fix" like o-rings, springs and seals.....BUT, you have to pull the pan or sometimes the whole tans to fix.
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Things are so complicated now. How does one figure an O2 sensor would force a transmission into 2nd gear? I tore down and reassembled a lawnmower engine when I was 11. Now it takes a PHd to change the oil. (No I don't have a PHd, hence, embarrassingly, I pay someone else to do it these days.)
You aren't kidding Alf. I just got a new (to me) 2011 F150 with the EcoBoost. I went to change the oil yesterday. Even if I had 4' long arms, they'd have to be as thin as a pencil and bend in 4 different directions to reach the oil filter. As for the drain plug, I'll be damned if I could even find it. There's a steel plate protecting the bottom of the engine so I can't even see the oil pan.
I used to do all of the work on my vehicles short of anything internal to the block. Now, I can't even change my oil or spark plugs.
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Well let me tell you all how I spent my Sunday. I pulled the transmission pan and found black sludge in the bottom. While I was underneath I found a disconnected 3 pin connector. Guess where it went, the o2 sensor.
While researching the 4L60e transmission. I found it is electrically controlled , if one of the electrical parts breaks it will throw a code. Since I didn't show any codes my next likelyhood was th 3-4 clutch pack was shot(black sludge in the pan).
As to friends don't let friends drive Govt. Motor vehicles if I could afford to buy a Ford Excursion I would. I am now looking at having it rebuilt.
Thanks for all of the replies
Ranger Dave
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Isn't there always some sludge in the pan of an automatic trans from the clutch parts sliding against one another?
Did it shift when the O2 sensor was reconnected? Computer controlled stuff does goofy things when there is something sensed out of whack.
Disclaimer:
I know JackS#!+ about transmissions. My only knowledge base is talking to mechanics that I've known...one of which has very crooked business practices. No, he NEVER touches my vehicles.
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....Even if I had 4' long arms, they'd have to be as thin as a pencil and bend in 4 different directions to reach the oil filter. As for the drain plug, I'll be damned if I could even find it.
I changed the oil in my wife's Pathfinder once....ONCE. And it's only a 2001. To many things had to be moved and removed to get to the filter. Still do my own in the Ranger (2000). I have a Leaf (all electric) now for running to and from work and for errands. No oil change!!!! Do have coolant and brake fluid to keep topped off though. Life is rough.
Ranger Dave. Glad you're on track to figure it out.
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I changed the oil in my wife's Pathfinder once....ONCE.
Same here for the wife's XTerra. They left a hole to conveniently get to the filter.
Said hole is just big enough to fit the filter through...as long as you don't have any fingers attached to it.
Not owning a trained spider monkey, I told the wife to take it to the nearest Whatever-Lube.
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I've yet to own a vehicle where I couldn't do my own oil changes. In the last twenty years, I've had my oil changed by a dealer once and they added way too mach oil, once by a Jiffy Lube and they busted the oil sensor above the filter when they changed it. I've done hundreds of oil changes over my lifetime since I worked in a garage for 2-1/2 years. Either way, I knew before I bought my last four or five cars if I could do the work myself.
I just trust anyone else anymore. Besides, quickly lube joints use shit for filters and shit for oil, at least the dealer used the correct oil for the vehicle!
Your tranny problem is nothing I can or would diagnose over the web. Too many issues and I've never been a fan of GM anything anyway. Now, they're dead to me as gubmint motors..
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I've yet to own a vehicle where I couldn't do my own oil changes.
It's not that I, KMitch, can't, it's just too much trouble. Jacking the car up, dropping the pan just to gain access to the filter. At some point the "cost" of that exceeds not just the price of an oil change, but the satisfaction of doing it myself.
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I know y'all are more than capable, Alf! It helps that I enjoy the gear head stuff.
I've spent the summer rebuilding a thirty year old snow blower. 100 bucks for the used machine and another 100 or so in parts and she runs like new! Saved myself 800-1000 bucks for a new one.
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Now that's fun Timothy.
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Now that's fun Timothy.
Before and after. Just got the last bit of parts and she's finished. The local Toro guy has been a big help as well! It's a 1985 and everything is still available.