The Down Range Forum
Member Section => Down Range Cafe => Topic started by: The Butler did it on July 05, 2009, 06:54:18 PM
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I watched and read this forum for along time before joining , I found the info interesting and informative. Most of you seem like my sort of people ? Agree to disagree was ok , but well thought out , and good points made. Maybe you all can help me with a choice I have to make.
I shot a S&W 327 NG 2 1/2' barrel today and was impressed with it , like new in the box with the papers ect. ( not sure if it was ever shot ). I can buy it for $695. Deal or no deal ? Good gun bad gun ? Don't need it just want it . I have 2 637's ( one with crimson trace the other new in the box ) , a Beretta 84f , and 8040 , Glock 22 , S&W 686 6' , Taurus judge mag. , and M66 4" , Sig Trailside , Browning Gold hunter , Wingmaster , Henry 17 hmr and a Marlin model 60 , and more . Just looking for a range report on the 327 iif available.
I will be off line for while , look forward to your thoughts .Thanks in advance.
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I don't know if any one here has or has shot the .327 yet, I've heard it's a decent round with mild recoil, with at least 3 companies making pistols for it now (Ruger, Charter Arms and S&W )manufacturers are likely to offer more varieties of ammo and it should become easier to find, and the NG pistols have a decent reputation. The one extra round is nice to.
Price ? $695 seems high to me but it's a lot better than the approx $1100 MSRP, especially considering I recently bought a very good used Model 13 for $350.
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Tom, the 327 NG is .357 magnum. The model number is misleading.
That said, Smith & Wesson just charges too much for their firearms IMO...
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Oh yeah, I see the 357NG is in 41 mag, that's dumb.
I only own one revolver, it's a .357, I see no point in having any other centerfire calibers as it will do anything I need a hand gun to do.
S&W are way to proud of their product when the MSRP for a Ruger is what they are asking for a USED S&W no matter how seldom it was shot.
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Oh yeah, I see the 357NG is in 41 mag, that's dumb.
I only own one revolver, it's a .357, I see no point in having any other centerfire calibers as it will do anything I need a hand gun to do.
S&W are way to proud of their product when the MSRP for a Ruger is what they are asking for a USED S&W no matter how seldom it was shot.
I agree with you that the Ruger wheel guns are a better value, but.......I would like a S&W 627. An 8 shot .357 magnum revolver would be pretty cool. ;D
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The problem with the ruger is you have to take it to a gunsmith to make it into what the S$W is out of the box.
I have owned several Rugers over the years and cannot fault them for what they are, good, tough, dependable pistols.
The last one I owned was a GP100 with a 4 inch barrel. The trigger was so stiff I literally could not hit a target in double action.
Took it to a smith who smoothed the trigger and lightened the pull.
A new S$W is like that when you buy it.
I bought a 637 for summer carry. I love the little thing but I don't want to shoot more than 30 rounds with it at a setting. Stings like thunder even with Hogue grips.
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My Dad bought an NIB Model 27 in 1973 for $175 the same pistol in their "Classic line" $1090
When I checked the website for the price I see that the Model 17 (has also made it into the Classic line ) he bought for $125 in "71 also is nearly $1100
Thats ridiculous it's nearly double the price of a Ruger and the difference will pay for several trigger jobs. Like I said I HAVE a S&W because I could not find the Ruger I wanted at the time I had the money and the Smith in the Pawn Shop was less than my second choice Ruger.
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My Dad bought an NIB Model 27 in 1973 for $175 the same pistol in their "Classic line" $1090
When I checked the website for the price I see that the Model 17 (has also made it into the Classic line ) he bought for $125 in "71 also is nearly $1100
Thats ridiculous it's nearly double the price of a Ruger and the difference will pay for several trigger jobs. Like I said I HAVE a S&W because I could not find the Ruger I wanted at the time I had the money and the Smith in the Pawn Shop was less than my second choice Ruger.
you can buy both those guns for around $800... smiths MSRP is always about a 1/3 more then street price at a good gun shop... I don't shop at the ones that charge full MSRP...
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you can buy both those guns for around $800... smiths MSRP is always about a 1/3 more then street price at a good gun shop... I don't shop at the ones that charge full MSRP...
I haven't seen them in the local shop so I didn't have anything else to go by, but that will still buy a ruger and a trigger job including shipping and insurance.
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locally, there is only about $100 diffrence between a ruger and a smith... so you can have a gun thats ready to go, or you can save $50, wait weeks and get a gun thats ready. its not much of a choice.
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You didn't say whether the caliber was .38 or .357, but I would say no if it was .38! The Gun Blue Book 29th Ed. puts the 98% gun at about $675 so the price isn't to bad though their might be a little room for negotiations. I would like to own one of them myself in .357, I think it would make an excellent night stand gun ( as I think that was the design intention/target audience ).
locally, there is only about $100 diffrence between a ruger and a smith... so you can have a gun thats ready to go, or you can save $50, wait weeks and get a gun thats ready. its not much of a choice.
The problem with the ruger is you have to take it to a gunsmith to make it into what the S$W is out of the box.
I have owned several Rugers over the years and cannot fault them for what they are, good, tough, dependable pistols.
The last one I owned was a GP100 with a 4 inch barrel. The trigger was so stiff I literally could not hit a target in double action.
Took it to a smith who smoothed the trigger and lightened the pull.
A new S$W is like that when you buy it.
I bought a 637 for summer carry. I love the little thing but I don't want to shoot more than 30 rounds with it at a setting. Stings like thunder even with Hogue grips.
Not to knock S&W but this isn't always the case, I bought a 340PD that came from the factory with a trigger pull over 16lbs (thats the max reading for my trigger gage) I had to have a local G.S. work it over for a more manageable and smooth 10lb pull. Frankly I've bought that 340 and 3 M&Ps in the last 2 years and they all have tearable DA triggers!!
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For what it's worth. I've been slowly, carefully doing an "at home" trigger job on my Ruger. A 15 buck spring kit from Wolff and a set of 50 year old jewelers files have reduced my trigger pull from the factory of 14# to about 10# and considerably smoothed the trigger pull. By just removing the sharp edges of the hammer and trigger without touching the sear surfaces, it's coming along quite nicely. With a polishing wheel and some more care, I'll get the thing more than adequate for my needs.
Care and an understanding of the mechanism goes a long way and until I get to the range and ensure that it fires all magnum loads I carry with the lighter main spring, the 1911 comes out of the safe for daily carry.
Another nice thing about the Ruger....you can almost take the entire gun down without any tools other than the gun itself!