The Down Range Forum
Member Section => Tactical Rifle & Carbine => Topic started by: robheath on January 01, 2012, 09:09:24 PM
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I hope I don't sound stupid asking this but here it goes. I'm going to build a 300 Blackout. If I should put a mag loaded with the 30 cal. ammo in my 5.56. ( wait for it ) Will the gun go into battery?? I also wonder the other way around. I guess the 5.56 round would just bounce around the barrel as it heads to the muzzle. Would the 5.56 case split or would it be worse than that?? Just decided to look like a moron and ask. Be gentile please :P
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I do not know.
BUT
I understand the .300 case is somewhat shorter than the .223 so either one could be a very bad thing.
Both will at best create a jam.
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The .223 will not fit in the .300BLK and it looks like the .300 will not quite chamber in the .223.
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The 300 will not come close to chambering in a 5.56 rifle which is very good safety wise. On the other hand 5.56 will come very close to chambering in a 300 barrel but it will not go into full battery. Safety wise even if it did the bullet would just come bouncing out like you said but I'm sure it wouldn't be the best thing for your barrel.
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Thanks guys... I was concerned bscause everything is the same except the barrel. Same mags, same bolt and carrier... Seems extra caution may be needed.
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Thanks guys... I was concerned bscause everything is the same except the barrel. Same mags, same bolt and carrier... Seems extra caution may be needed.
Something like only using P mags for .300 and only using Mil Surp aluminum for 5.56
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Something like only using P mags for .300 and only using Mil Surp aluminum for 5.56
+1
Or the o' blue masking tape, wrapped around the base,....or green masking tape for the other.. There is a way to easily discern loaded mags.
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When I get a chance I'll take some pics of what I did. I dedicated all my FDE P-Mags to 300aac. I then took some number stickers and put "300" on the bottom 3rd of all the mags. I taped off the rest so there is just a small stripe exposed about 1/4" above and below the 300 stickers. I then shot them with flat black duracoat and took off all the tape and stickers. I basically have a 1.5" black band around the bottom of the FDE P-Mags with 300 in the stripe in FDE. It looks really good and reminds me what they're for. When I shot grendel I used all Foliage P-mags for it and had a little blue "G" on those mags.
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When I get a chance I'll take some pics of what I did. I dedicated all my FDE P-Mags to 300aac. I then took some number stickers and put "300" on the bottom 3rd of all the mags. I taped off the rest so there is just a small stripe exposed about 1/4" above and below the 300 stickers. I then shot them with flat black duracoat and took off all the tape and stickers. I basically have a 1.5" black band around the bottom of the FDE P-Mags with 300 in the stripe in FDE. It looks really good and reminds me what they're for. When I shot grendel I used all Foliage P-mags for it and had a little blue "G" on those mags.
That sounds cool. Post some pics so i can steal your idea... ;D ;D
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on another forum I saw pics of a KABOOMED! AR. I guess it was either the .300 Blackout stuck in a 5.56 AR.
I can track down the pics if you really want me to.
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I hadn't really thought of it, but the shorter .300 case might allow the action to close enough on a 5.56 chambered rifle to get the firing pin to hit the primer. I bet a free floating .30 caliber bullet exploding in a 5.56 chamber makes for all sorts of unpleasantness. On a related note, I had a buddy who inadvertently loaded a .223 round into his AK 47 mag. Yes, it fired the round, and gave a college try at ejecting the exploded case. I love Mikhail Kalashnikov.
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I hadn't really thought of it, but the shorter .300 case might allow the action to close enough on a 5.56 chambered rifle to get the firing pin to hit the primer. I bet a free floating .30 caliber bullet exploding in a 5.56 chamber makes for all sorts of unpleasantness. On a related note, I had a buddy who inadvertently loaded a .223 round into his AK 47 mag. Yes, it fired the round, and gave a college try at ejecting the exploded case. I love Mikhail Kalashnikov.
No, I tested it on mine to see, close but it won't go into full battery.
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No, I tested it on mine to see, close but it won't go into full battery.
Cool. Good info to have. I wonder how the Kaboom pic Tyler referenced happened.
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When I get a chance I'll take some pics of what I did. I dedicated all my FDE P-Mags to 300aac. I then took some number stickers and put "300" on the bottom 3rd of all the mags. I taped off the rest so there is just a small stripe exposed about 1/4" above and below the 300 stickers. I then shot them with flat black duracoat and took off all the tape and stickers. I basically have a 1.5" black band around the bottom of the FDE P-Mags with 300 in the stripe in FDE. It looks really good and reminds me what they're for. When I shot grendel I used all Foliage P-mags for it and had a little blue "G" on those mags.
Might be better to leave a little tape on there. That way you don't screw up in the dark and have that extra tactile fail safe. Ahh, duct tape, there are so very few problems that it can't solve. ;D
FQ13
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Great info guys now i'm glad i asked. When I get mine built I'll use some dummy rounds and give a full report. I can just see the bolt jamming that 30 cal round deep enough in the case to let it go into battery. That would suck !!
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Cool. Good info to have. I wonder how the Kaboom pic Tyler referenced happened.
Maybe they were using whisper ammo or a handload that was slightly shorter. It was very close, I walked the bolt in softly since I didn't want to jam in an mess up my chamber. I guess if you let it slam and/or used the forward assist you could probably get it into battery. Plus with so many AR homebuilds out there you'd be shocked how many aren't properly headspaced. If you were off a little there and your load was off a little here it could all add up to a big crap storm.
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Maybe they were using whisper ammo or a handload that was slightly shorter. It was very close, I walked the bolt in softly since I didn't want to jam in an mess up my chamber. I guess if you let it slam and/or used the forward assist you could probably get it into battery. Plus with so many AR homebuilds out there you'd be shocked how many aren't properly headspaced. If you were off a little there and your load was off a little here it could all add up to a big crap storm.
I haven't built an AR-YET!, but I will partly because the headspace and timing are the things I haven't messed with since I ran the M-60 or M-249 20 years ago. Even then all we did was check it with a GO/NO-GO gage and set it to the unit armorer if it was a NO-GO. How do you set up the HeadSpace on an AR?
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Just check with go/no go gauges. The headspace isn't adjustable. A new barrel and bolt will almost always be good together. Used parts... no so much.
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Just check with go/no go gauges. The headspace isn't adjustable. A new barrel and bolt will almost always be good together. Used parts... no so much.
Yes and no, quality parts installed properly and this is 100% correct. I've seen some new barrels that don't have the barrel extension properly installed. I've also seen new barrels and new receivers that weren't manufactured completely square or true. It doesn't take a lot to throw things off. You can use go/no go gauges to make sure everything lines up but if it doesn't they don't really tell you where the problem is. That's why you buy quality parts or from a reliable source. Say you buy a upper and barrel from someone like PSA or BCM and you have an issue, you send it to them and they will make it right.
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Yes and no, quality parts installed properly and this is 100% correct. I've seen some new barrels that don't have the barrel extension properly installed. I've also seen new barrels and new receivers that weren't manufactured completely square or true. It doesn't take a lot to throw things off. You can use go/no go gauges to make sure everything lines up but if it doesn't they don't really tell you where the problem is. That's why you buy quality parts or from a reliable source. Say you buy a upper and barrel from someone like PSA or BCM and you have an issue, you send it to them and they will make it right.
Exactly. I've built 14 now and never had one not headspace...I have my local smith double check them ( he's a buddy of mine ) if you stick with quality parts, they are not at all hard to build. About $100 bucks worth of tools and a little info and just about any body can build one.
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Exactly. I've built 14 now and never had one not headspace...I have my local smith double check them ( he's a buddy of mine ) if you stick with quality parts, they are not at all hard to build. About $100 bucks worth of tools and a little info and just about any body can build one.
okay, so I gotta ask. If you have built 14 of them, versus what you could get off the shelf or off the rack as a complete gun from a major manufacturer, have you come out money ahead building it yourself?
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okay, so I gotta ask. If you have built 14 of them, versus what you could get off the shelf or off the rack as a complete gun from a major manufacturer, have you come out money ahead building it yourself?
At 14 I would guess money is not the object, it's the fun of doing it.
Either that or he is helping out less skilled friends, but that may not be a subject we really want to get into.
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okay, so I gotta ask. If you have built 14 of them, versus what you could get off the shelf or off the rack as a complete gun from a major manufacturer, have you come out money ahead building it yourself?
I've built 1...And I can say for the parts I selected to use...if it were on sale "retail" as a custom build, it would be in the $1200-$1500
range.
In total I was right around $900. Including an AR-15 wrench, and a new gunsmith punch set from Midway.
The cool thing about the .300 is after SHOT, I'll bet even more folks will take an interest in it.
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I've built 1...And I can say for the parts I selected to use...if it were on sale "retail" as a custom build, it would be in the $1200-$1500
range.
In total I was right around $900. Including an AR-15 wrench, and a new gunsmith punch set from Midway.
The cool thing about the .300 is after SHOT, I'll bet even more folks will take an interest in it.
I hope so. I went to a large gun show here in ND, and not one vendor had any .300BLK. No uppers, no barrels, no ammo. I asked a lot, so maybe at the Grand Forks show in March I might see some. Lots of FUDDS up here though, and a lot of WWII collectors. Saw some nice Lugers, as well as modern stuff, just no .300. I was wearing our Range volunteer shirt (bright red, Range logo, even my name embroidered on it), so when I asked, I did have a couple of people ask me about the round.
Of course, I am still waiting to see and handle my first Kel-Tec RFB . . . . . ??? ::)
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I've only built 5.56 so far but I come out 3 or 400 dollars cheaper. It depends on what parts I use. I do it for the fun. After I built the first one, all my friends wanted them. I have them buy the lower because thats what is controled by the atf. Then I see what they want in them and on them. It,s just a blast to build them,