The Down Range Forum
Member Section => Reloading => Topic started by: Magoo541 on March 26, 2012, 11:46:09 AM
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So a very nice software engineer I work with gave me a box of reloading equipment (I'll inventory it tonight and post here) since he doesn't shoot much anymore. I have a bench that will be perfect for this in the garage and have a nice piece of 3/4" 6061 to mount the press to (looks like a single stage press). There is a Speer Reloadering Manual Number Nine (1974 vintage), a Winchester Ball Powder Loading Data booklet (1975) and a Reloaders Guide by a R.A. Steindler (1975). 40 year old data that is probably good, but I'm just looking for some verification.
He told me he had everything to load .223, 45 ACP, 9mm, 38 and .357 as well as brass and bullets. I currently only own a 45 out of those listed and would like someone to check my methods as I do this. I see a box of Speer 45 Cal. (.451") 225 grain Jacket Magnum Hollow point in the box but I thought 45 ACP was .452" diam?
Anyway, I'll post later tonight with the contents. I am off this week and have all week to play with this stuff, so I'll be buying some powder at least.
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Magoo, be careful with any powder you have been given...not that the guy would tamper with it, but be sure it is in the original container so you can be pretty sure it is what you think it is.
Also, I learned that if powder was over 10 years old, it may have deteriorated and it's burning properties will have changed....and they change to make the powder burn faster, which could be real trouble in a small case even if you are using a load near minimum.
I'd say it just isn't worth taking the risk....use it to light your charcoal for grilling or the logs in your fireplace.
Also, you want to get a good general book on reloading. Lots of practices of which you will want to be aware and a good introduction to reloading and how it all fits together. Things like how crimping and bullet seating will affect pressure; what type of crimp to use for which cartridge type; what the different dies are use for and tips for proper setup and much more
I started with The ABC's of reloading many years ago and there are newer versions available. My advice is not to skip this introductory reading.
You can find it here http://www.amazon.com/ABCs-Reloading-C-Rodney-James/dp/0873491904
I'm sure others will be able to recommend different books.
I don't think there is a Reloading for Dummies mainly because if you are a dummy, you have no business any where near a reloading setup.
You will enjoy this part of shooting.
Good luck :D :D :D
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Read the "Reloader's guide " first before you do anything else.
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MAGOO, most of what Solus told you is correct. BUT if he gave you any powder if it still has an ether oder it should still be good. If it doesn't use it for fertilizer on your lawn. DO NOT use it in a fireplace to start a fire or you may be useing your fire insurance to rebuild your home. Definatly get the ABC of Reloading. You can also go to the on line sites for different powder companies to get information on the different powders available. There over 100 different powders for rifle, pistol and shotgun. Useing the wrong one can be very bad for your health. Any of the newer reloading manuals will have scads of info for a .45 auto. Also jacketed bullets are .451 and cast bullets are .452 inches.
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Magoo, Hodgdon has a web site that will give you a lot of good reloading info for Hodgdon, Winchester Western and IMR powders. You can compare the current data with the manual you have to see how it compares. You may or may not be able to match the exact components you have but a close match is USUALLY alright. As a rule of thumb, if any of your components aren't exactly the same start 10% lower and work up UNLESS the data says not to! Also, I almost never start at the max load listed and NEVER exceed it! Loading .45 is fairly simple. You might be able to find the "ABC's" book at a gunshow at a good price.
Be safe and wear eye protection always and load when and where you will not be interrupted. Let your family know this rule.
Richard
PS: I never tempt fate and say how long I have reloaded and how safe I have been...if you know what I mean.
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Among what others have said, I have found the updated Lee manual very helpful The whole first half of the book is a step-by-step guide and also has sections on bullet types and other tid-bits.
$14 at Midway:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/484416/lee-modern-reloading-2nd-edition-reloading-manual
You can find current, modern load data on all the major powder manufacturers web sites.
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First off there was no powder in the box.
So this is what I have:
Lyman ST turret press (I think-it says Lyman on one side with a S-T on the other)
RCBS Powder Measure
RCBS Powder Trickler
Lyman Universal Case Trimmer
Redding Master Powder & Bullet scale (old beam style)
RCBS Case Lube Pad
Lyman A-A 38/357 3 Die Set
Lyman A-A 9mm Luger 3 Die Set (I know-its 9mm Parabellum-DUH)
Lyman A-A 45 ACP RN, SWC 3 die set
RCBS 45 ACP SWC 3 Die Set
Lyman Tungsten Carbide Resizing Die 38/357
CCI Small Pistol Magnum, CCI Small Rifle and Winchester Small Pistol Primers (6.49-7.49 a 1000 when purchased :o )
A bunch of Speer bullets for 45 ACP, 9mm, and 38/357
A bunch of Brass and some old MCM bullet cases
So I know I need powder, is there a good powder that will cover these three? All I will reload now is 45 so I can live with just one powder.
I'll be reading the books tonight and tomorrow and probably wont do any reloading until Thursday.
Anyone have any experience with the Lyman ST?
Thanks in advance.
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If all you load is .45 ACP, I have good results with 5.0grs (actually lower than min charge) of Accurate #5 pushing a 200gr RNL or semi-wadcutter.
It is a mild shooting load, but can be bumped a good bit for more velocity.
There is load data for all the calibers you mentioned.
http://www.accuratepowder.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/accurate_load_data_3.5.pdf
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most of the intermediate burn rate shotgun powders are pretty good for target loads with .45, .38/357, and 9mm.. the Winchester ball process (the individual particles may not look spherical, the term relates to the exterior coating used to control burn rate) makes a pretty cool burning propellant for cast bullets as it tends to not burn the base, which is very detrimental to accuracy...I like WST (Winchester Super Target) for .45, and WSF (Winchester Super Field) for 9mm....don't load much .38/.357
remember that all lead compounds are poisonous, so don't drink or eat while reloading, and be sure to wash your hands when done
new reloaders have a tendency to load individual primer tubes, looking directly over the tube into the tray... a detonation would have very serious consequences... wear eye protection
if you are interrupted, stop your reloading....
stand up to reload, and have a light so you can see the propellant level in the case
mark a spot on your bench to consistently place your powder scale, and level the bench as best you can....calibrate your reloading scale, and if you don't have a set of calibration masses, factory bullets in a couple of weights can be used to check your scale.... don't use on top of a styrofoam packing box as static charge can vary the reading
drop at least 10 charges when adjusting your powder measure...move the decimal point...
for 9mm (realistically all autoloader cartridges) cases get a set of Lee reloading dies as they size further down the case
if you use found on range brass, shake a handful at a time, and you will be able to hear the "flat" tone of cracked cases
good luck and enjoy
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I picked up a new Lyman's reloading manual and a pound of Bullseye last week hoping to get a start on loading a few rounds but had to travel on short notice. So having read some about reloading and a good idea of the important thing-SAFETY I have a few questions.
First is what are some of the preferred place or places (I've heard powder valley is a good start) to buy reloading supplies like powder, bullets, primers and brass?
Second are tumblers (vibratory type) necessary for brass and completed bullets?
And finally is it worth casting your own bullets if you can't get your hands on used wheel weights?
Thanks,
Bryan
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Powder and Primers: Powder Valley is definitely a good place to mail order Primer and Powder. You have to weigh the shipping and HazMat fee against your local store prices (including sales tax).
I have one store in town whose powder price is about the same, but primers is 20% higher. So if I just need powder I buy locally. If I need primer I get about 10,000 and the powder and that spreads the hazmat fee, so the price per 1,000 is well worth it.
Sometimes the big named retailers (MidwayUSA, MidSouth, CTD, etc) have a sale on primers that makes it worthwhile, but the stars have to align (their sale, my need, and my funds).
Bullets: I've pretty much settled on two suppliers for most of my pistol bullets.
For lead bullets and for jacketed .357, I buy from Magnus (http://magnusbullets.com/ (http://magnusbullets.com/)) though they can't keep up with production of the jacketed so you have to give them a long lead time (4-6weeks).
An alternative to lead bullets is copper plated. Loads the same as lead, doesn't cost much more. As long as velocities are under 1,200fps they work great. I get .45, 9mm and .44s at Berrys (http://www.berrysmfg.com/).
Both companies use USPS Flat Rate, so up to around #50's ships for about $11.
Brass: No reason to buy 9mm or .38spl, unless you're a purist. Plenty of stuff on the ground at a range. Even .45ACP and .40SW isn't hard to find. When I go shooting, and I'm feeling needy, I ask everyone on the range (7 bays) if I can have their brass. Just come get me and I'll sweep your lane for you. Only other reloaders say no. You do need to be careful with 9mm and sort our the ones with swollen bases. These are typically IPSC/USPSA shooter making max PF with 9mm. Not a big price to pay for free brass.
But for all my brass purchases (.357 and .44) I've settled on Starline (http://starlinebrass.com/ (http://starlinebrass.com/)). You can buy it direct as well. Everything I've bought from them has been first rate. They're endorse by a number of the pro shooters, including Golob, Tequila, Koenig, Jarrett and Platt.
Tumblers/Vibrators: People are all over the map on this topic. I only clean really really dirty cases. I use a vibrator with walnut shell medium. I use to deprime and then clean so there was some chance of cleaning the primer pocket, but typically the pockets just clogged with medium. So now I clean before I deprime. I've never tumbled completed ammo. The bullet itself shouldn't be "dirty" and if the case is that dirty then I do it before reloading.
Casting: I've moved away from lead for pistols and gone to copper plated. Much cleaner and much safer medically, especially if you shoot a lot indoors. I've never felt the need to cast. Some like to do it and some don't.
Hope all that is a help, others will I'm sure chime in with other resources and opinions.
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Check out Powder Valley web site to see what they have. I have also heard Graf's is good. Brass can be found at gun shows as well as .223 bullets in quantity and some ranges sell their range brass at good prices. Ranges might also have quality lead bullets. For jacketed bullets I like Roze Dist. if you can order at least 1000 of each (free shipping). Montana Gold is also good. Berry's makes plated bullets but I haven't tried them. Rainier and Precision Delta supply bullets...haven't tried either. You might find supplies available at local clubs that order in large quantities. Start out by buying 1# cans of powder and do your load development. Once you have settled on a load you can buy powder in 4 or 8 pound cans. I like WW Super Target for the pistol cals. you mentioned but have not reloaded .223 yet so can't help there. Wheel weights are hard to get and have gotten expensive unless you have a friend in the tire business. I gave up casting years ago but you might like it. It takes time which I prefer to use shooting. I try to do all of my loading in the winter also.
FWIW
Richard
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I cast a lot of bullets early in my shooting career, but would not recommend it unless you are shooting something unique like a .460 Roland and want a homogeneous solid in a custom mould....I would suggest a serum lead level yearly if you do... mine was 8 micrograms per deciliter after about 30 years, but don't shoot indoors anymore, nor shoot cast or polymercoated bullets
I never got as good accuracy out of the copper plated bullets, including the double struck ones compared to a commercially cast lead bullet in .45acp
polymer coated bullets greatly reduce smoke, but check to see that the polymer doesn't have any abrasive in its application process
my 147grain 9mm bullets come from Delta Precision
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Update, I've been off most of this week and had a chance to get started. So far I've got my bench set-up with the press bolted down and have de-primed 50 rounds. Went to BiMart and bought 1000 CCI 300 primers (Large handgun) for $31.90 and a pound of Bullseye for $20 went out to the Gun club and bought 500 200 grain bullets for $51.90.
The lube I was given is STICKY but did its job when resizing but now I have to remove the gunk to start the reloading process, any easy way to do this? Should it be this sticky? When I think of lube my mind goes to slippery stuff, this is RCBS resizing lube but who knows how old it is.
Once I get the cases clean it'll be time to prime, flare, charge (5 grains Bullseye) and seat the bullet (OAL ~1.235" IIRC) I'll take them out to the range this weekend and run them over a chronograph to see how close they are to the book.
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Update, I've been off most of this week and had a chance to get started. So far I've got my bench set-up with the press bolted down and have de-primed 50 rounds. Went to BiMart and bought 1000 CCI 300 primers (Large handgun) for $31.90 and a pound of Bullseye for $20 went out to the Gun club and bought 500 200 grain bullets for $51.90.
The lube I was given is STICKY but did its job when resizing but now I have to remove the gunk to start the reloading process, any easy way to do this? Should it be this sticky? When I think of lube my mind goes to slippery stuff, this is RCBS resizing lube but who knows how old it is.
Once I get the cases clean it'll be time to prime, flare, charge (5 grains Bullseye) and seat the bullet (OAL ~1.235" IIRC) I'll take them out to the range this weekend and run them over a chronograph to see how close they are to the book.
did you use a lube pad and neck brush with the lube? It should be applied very lightly. Too much on the outside could put a "dent" in the shoulder of a bottle neck case. Too much inside and it could foul the powder or primer. I've never had to remove any excess.
Two ways to avoid much of the sticky lube problem. One is to use a spray lube. I use Dillon's Product and the other is to use carbide sizing dies.
http://www.dillonprecision.com/content/p/9/pid/23666/catid/8/Dillon_Case_Lube__8_oz__Bottle_
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+100 on the spray lube. I gave up the lube pad years ago.
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+100 as well on the spray lube, I would never use the pad again, too messy and a lot of dented shoulders. I re-size before tumbling, cleans off the lube. The exception is really grungy brass. I used to run then the de-primed cases through the dishwasher after re-sizing to remove the lube, then I got married. ;D
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+100 as well on the spray lube, I would never use the pad again, too messy and a lot of dented shoulders. I re-size before tumbling, cleans off the lube. The exception is really grungy brass. I used to run then the de-primed cases through the dishwasher after re-sizing to remove the lube, then I got married. ;D
So you convinced your wife to clean them? Good work :D
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Baby steps, , baby steps, at least she doesn't gripe when I buy primers. :)
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I think I missed something.... are you loading a .45acp?...... there is no need to lube the cases if you use a carbide sizing die...
please ignore this if I missed something
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I have a carbide resizing die for 38/357 but none yet for the 45.
I did lube the cases on a lube pad and cleaned them off with a shop towel before priming.
I flared the cases (too little the first time had to go another .06" deep), then set the powder to 5 grams using the old beam scale and loaded 50 rounds before seating the bullets to an OAL of 1.272" per the manual.
My wife went with me to buy Primers yesterday and this afternoon I told her that she needed to learn so she could load during the day while I was at work. She rebuffed me and said not today because my parents were coming over (retired on the road in their RV-dad almost took out some arbrovidas for me). ;D
So I have 50 rounds of 45 ACP reloaded ready for the range tomorrow- 200 grain cast RN over 5 grains of Bullseye on a CCI 300 with an OAL of 1.272" should get about 800 fps. We shall see....
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I have a carbide resizing die for 38/357 but none yet for the 45.
I did lube the cases on a lube pad and cleaned them off with a shop towel before priming.
I flared the cases (too little the first time had to go another .06" deep), then set the powder to 5 grams using the old beam scale and loaded 50 rounds before seating the bullets to an OAL of 1.272" per the manual.
My wife went with me to buy Primers yesterday and this afternoon I told her that she needed to learn so she could load during the day while I was at work. She rebuffed me and said not today because my parents were coming over (retired on the road in their RV-dad almost took out some arbrovidas for me). ;D
So I have 50 rounds of 45 ACP reloaded ready for the range tomorrow- 200 grain cast RN over 5 grains of Bullseye on a CCI 300 with an OAL of 1.272" should get about 800 fps. We shall see....
Nice work. I am sure you meant 5 grains of powder instead of 5 grams.
Do you have a chrono?
Take care
Taper crimp is another thing to learn. I always find I need more than I "feel" is enough.
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The range I belong to has a few chronogrqaphs available to members but we are doing Easter dinner today and I have a few hours of homework to do today so my chances of getting out there this weekend are slim.
And yes I meant 5 grains ;D
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If you get a carbide sizing die, I would suggest one from Lee...
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If you get a carbide sizing die, I would suggest one from Lee...
Sounds good. What's the difference between dies from say Lee RCBS and Lyman?
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Sounds good. What's the difference between dies from say Lee RCBS and Lyman?
From what I've seen, mostly price.....For example, at Midway, you can get a 4-die carbide set of Lee dies for the same price as a 3-die set of RCBS. Lee includes a factory crimp die (which is one of their trade-marks).
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Ah... Gotcha...
So I was looking at carbide dies and realized thy aren't solid carbide like the end mills I use so I took a closer look at my resizing die and guess what? Yep, its carbide.... ;D ;D. I feel stoopid but its like finding extra money.
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for a low working pressure .45acp it is not much of a problem, but if you reload higher pressure autoloader cartridges like 9mm and .40SW, some of the quicker unlocking autoloaders will produce ejected brass that is more deformed near the web area...the radius and shape of the carbide insert of a Lee die will typically size further down the case and solve most chambering problems... brass shot in open bolt sub machine guns typically will have to be rolled to get it back to a servicable diameter
I use Lee dies in both of my Dillon presses.... they just solve potential problems
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I use Lee dies in both of my Dillon presses.... they just solve potential problems
That is good to know. By rolling the brass out of sub-guns do you mean in between two plates or ? My club is having our annual Machine Gun Shoot at the end of May and I am volunteering so there is a possibility of getting some brass from many different types of guns.
I was talking to my dad about reloading some of his hunting rounds for him as well as investing in a Dillon 650, he had a 550 he never used but now that I am reloading he likes the idea. I have room to set it up so we'll see ;D
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If you do decide to buy a Dillon 650, you might find this site useful.
http://brianenos.com/store/dillon.html
You will have a lot of questions about what is absolutely necessary, what will save you time and what is just nice to have....If you are planning on reloading multiple calibers, you will have even more questions.
You can find the answers at that site or in communication with him.
Good luck and take care.
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there are a couple of versions... for small volume non commercial users typically two slightly off parallel plates one of which moves ... for large commercial operations... a rotating hub with a "french curve" side rail ....
you might be happier with a case feeder on a 550... or a second 550, or one set up for small and one for large primers, rather than moving up ... like the earlier comment, go to the Brian Enos forums
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So I took a trip to the range yesterday to run some rounds through my XDM through a chrono graph. With an OAL of 1.270" (Lyman Manual) I experienced numerous FTF or more accurately Failure to fully chamber. I did manage to get about 30 rounds of the 3 loads I have and found that with 5 grains of Bullseye I was at or slight above the test barrel in the manual (manual-803 fps, I was 808-836 for 5 rounds).
As for the FTC I did chamber check a few rounds and notices the round wouldn't seat without some assistance but figured it would be fine. I was wrong, my XDM is happy with an OAL of 1.230". So I ran the rest of the rounds back through the seating die to an OAL of 1.220" and had no issues with the 2 dozen or so that I checked in my chamber.
On a side note I did get the turret moving, it just took a bearing puller to reveal a bit of rust in between the turret and the stud. A little emery cloth and a thin coat of grease on moving services. Now I can set the dies once and index through them ;D
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Welcome to reloading.
I have found Universal clays powder to be excellent for .45acp. I also use AA-5, but its a little dirty.
I like 200 grain bullets for the .45 acp. I usually load jacketed bullets. I used to cast, and I still have all of the equipment, but if you want to shoot cast bullets, you can purchase quality bullets, and not have all the work, and grief of casting. Bullet material is getting expensive, and wheel weights are not of the quality they used to be. They have alot of zinc in them.
Carbide sizing dies are the only way to go for pistol rounds. No lubing. Just clean your brass if its dirty.
I have 2 vibratory polishers that I use for the brass, that I run the brass in after all the sizing is done, and the primer pockets are cleaned. Use the Lyman ground up green corn cob media, and you will be pleased. If you use ground walnut shell, you will need to put a polishing compound in, which creates alot of red dust. I quit that years ago.
DO NOT PUT LOADED ROUNDS IN TO BE POLISHED, ONLY THE BRASS.
The loading manuals that you were given are way out of date. If you look at the new manuals, you will find that the newest books list loads that are quite a bit LESS with the poiwder charges. 3 loading manuals, Sierra, Speer, Hornady, are all excellent. I would suggest the bullet manufactures book for the bullets you are loading.
With regards to any old powder, especially if it is in a metal can, it makes an excellent fertilizer.
The chemicals in the powder will rust the inside of the can, and contaminate the powder. Put a small amount of the older powder on a white paper towel, rub it around, and see if there is any rust like powder there. If there is, get rid of it.
I have had to throw out 3 one pound cans of IMR 4320 because of that.
Good luck, read everthing you can get your hands on, see if you can observe the reloading process with another reloading person, and enjoy the hobby. I find it to be very relaxing. Turn the phone off.
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UPDATE:
So I have made a couple of trips to the range with my reloads, a few of which I have documented here, and spent a couple of hours yesterday using the clubs Chrony to evaluate my loads. Here is what I found:
First, you must be back about 10' from the Chrony to get it to work (DOH!)
Second, when looking at load data bullet profile is important. For example you cannot use OAL and powder charge for say a 200g SWC on a 200g RNFP (which there isn't a lot of data for BTW) and expect similar results.
Finally once you have figured all that out, reloading is a lot of fun.
What I found out at the range yesterday is that 3.3g of Bullseye under a 200g LRNFP at 1.200" OAL won't cycle an XDM 45, 3.8g will if you don't limp wrist it like my 16 year-old daughter does, as you push powder charge up the load shoots better and Velocity is not linear. For example at X grams of powder I got and average of 840fps(Y), at X + .4 grains I got 906 fps (Y+ 66fps) and at X + 1.0 grains I got 962 fps (Y +122 fps). The hot load actually shot better for me than the others both on paper and on steel as far as accuracy goes. I'm not sure the recoil difference was enough to affect transitions but once I have access to a timer or shoot some USPSA I'll find out.
Next, I'm going to work up some 230g LRN over some Clays powder to make Major Power Factor for USPSA and see how I shoot it compared to the 200g LRNFP.
The only thing I haven't figured out is how the wife is going to deal with the additional expenditure for componenets as I have been using surplus perdiem from work (I eat like a starving artist, or a cheap SOB, on the road ;D) to buy most everything so far.
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Very good Magoo.
A recent copy of Handloader the writer had documented with some of his ammo how at a certain point velocity actually starts going down when increasing the amount of powder.
I get paid mileage in a separate check (not payroll), which I used for local purchases. But since most of my bullets are bought on-line, and I have to use a credit card, it's been difficult for the wife not to notice. I just make sure she see articles about home invasions and such and she's all for having a large stock of ammo on hand.
I posted a question about my Chrony and how far away I should be over on another forum. The inventor of the modern chronograph himself, Ken Oehler, replied and gave me info, even though "Chrony" isn't his brand. I was so impressed that the next one I buy will be one of his.
Yes, especially the lower the velocity of the round the further away the screens need to be. A super sonic bullet can outrun the blast front in just a few feet. A subsonic one has to go further before it can pass the blast frontal wave. Just watch some of the slo-mo's on top shot.
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Very good Magoo.
A recent copy of Handloader the writer had documented with some of his ammo how at a certain point velocity actually starts going down when increasing the amount of powder.
I get paid mileage in a separate check (not payroll), which I used for local purchases. But since most of my bullets are bought on-line, and I have to use a credit card, it's been difficult for the wife not to notice. I just make sure she see articles about home invasions and such and she's all for having a large stock of ammo on hand.
I posted a question about my Chrony and how far away I should be over on another forum. The inventor of the modern chronograph himself, Ken Oehler, replied and gave me info, even though "Chrony" isn't his brand. I was so impressed that the next one I buy will be one of his.
Yes, especially the lower the velocity of the round the further away the screens need to be. A super sonic bullet can outrun the blast front in just a few feet. A subsonic one has to go further before it can pass the blast frontal wave. Just watch some of the slo-mo's on top shot.
Good stuff.
My next big purchase, or present ;D, will be some type of Chronograph. I did a quick search on Ken Oehler and found his website and his Model 35. Haven't ever seen one for sale but I haven't really looked. I figure if they are under $250 it would be a great investment maybe even a little more for something that will likely work for the rest of my life at $575 though...it may still happen just not as easily or as quickly, as a cheaper version.
As for the date getting skewed from being to close, uh.... yeah. I have velocities from 198 fps to the mid-400s for a load that recorded in the low to mid 800s when I stepped back (upset a fellow club member because I was technically off the firing line and I understand his concern). I found an Excel file someone put together as a reloading Log which I edited to fit my needs (added a Power Factor function for USPSA) and have now become enthralled with the numbers (inner geek peeking through).
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I have had a Oehler 35p for about 5-6 years now. I bought it before they discontinued production. They do charge more now, since they did another production run about a year ago.
I bought it after my first chrono went south.
Let me explain that I have been handloading for over 50 years, and the information I get from the Chronograph can really point out what is going on with your loads. A very useful tool. It may not be absolutely necessary, but I think it is.
I have the complete kit, (with Proof screen and printer) plus one extra screen (you never know when you may need it!). I also use a medium size, full size rifle case to carry everything as a kit.
Yesterday I chronoed 200g Montana Gold in my Kimber Grand Raptor II with 8.7 grains of AA5, to get 950fps.
My Springfield XDM .45 match did 947fps
Factory Winchester ranger, 230 grain in the Kimber went 924fps, the Springfield went 940fps
I have two Savage 12BVSS's in 22-250, 26 inch heavy barrel. I shot both of them Saturday to test out a load that I can reload for both of the rifles. The first rifle COL is 2.460, the second COL is 2.450. Sierra lists the COL at 2.350. By setting the COL to 2.430, I can load one load for both rifles. The load is 35 grains of IMR 4320, a load that I have been shooting for years in my 22-250's, with a Sierra 53 grain HPFB. All of my rifles shoot the 53 grain better than the 52 grain HPBT. Anyway the velocity in both rifles is 3532 in the first, and 3562 in the second. The COL of 2.350 shot decent, but the COL of 2.430 (which gives .020 jump in one rifle, and .032 in the other rifle) shot GREAT!. 1/2" groups (8-10 rounds), with a velocity variation of 18fps, and a SD of 0007.
Now I would know that they shot great, and with the pressures not hot (primer observance, and micing the cases), but the velocity, the consistancy are determined with the chrono. With the known velocity, I can determine and plot the trajectory. The chrono is a great tool to have.
Granted, I do not take it to the range all the time (It rains here in Western Washington), and I DO NOT let other shooters use it, but I think that it is one of the best tools that a handloader can have. I do not load my loads up to the Max. It is hard on equipment, and really does not shoot as well as a slightly reduced load.
A velocity of 3550fps is warm, and very accurate with the bullets that I use, and the barrel is much easier to clean after shooting.
Besides, I hit ground squirrels out to 300 yards, and even with a 18 power scope that can be a challenge.
The difference between men and boys is the price of their toys.
Just my two cents.
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Thanks Robert, that is were I would like to be one day, but since I just started reloading at the age of 40 in 50 years I'll be loading stuff more for fun than, well, for fun ;D
I agree that a Chronograph is necessary. Maybe not for the average shooter but I spent 15 years as a machinist and the last year as a manufacturing engineer and have learned that measuring everything will tell you what you need to know as well as stuff you probably don't want to know.
I'll be shooting some 3 gun matches in the future so I'll expand my caliber repertoire to at least .223/5.56 and .308/7.62. Yes I served in the Army, last unit was the 4th ID, and these are military calibers and I have much more experience with them than other stuff (except maybe 22LR) so I'm staying in my comfort zone-for now ;)
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So I shot my first USPSA match this weekend at my local club using my reloads. Not a single problem with over a 160 rounds. I shot a lot better than I thought I would and even "cleaned" the last 3 stages without a Miss or a No Shoot. Not all Alphas but nothing I would blame on my ammo, its the idgit behind the trigger.
Thank you all for your help. I have my first 1000 rounds reloaded and need to find some more cash for bullets ;D
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..... need to find some more cash for bullets ;D
Yes, an ongoing problem. I may, single-handedly, be responsible for the demise of USPS Flat Rate shipping, with my monthly orders.
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Congratulations Magoo... it's very satisfying to go shoot a bag 'o rounds that you made yourself, have them perform wonderfully, and be able to pick up your brass all in one small spot.
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Congratulations Magoo... it's very satisfying to go shoot a bag 'o rounds that you made yourself, have them perform wonderfully, and be able to pick up your brass all in one small spot.
Actually my brass was spread all over the course of fire, I shot my first USPSA match and a charity match with it. Its funny though I didn't even think about the performance of my ammo until afterwards and I realized I didn't have any issues. Very satisfying, now I need to work up a load with Clays and some 230 grain RN :)