The Down Range Forum
Member Section => Down Range Cafe => Topic started by: Ranger Dave on May 17, 2020, 09:36:49 PM
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Last Tuesday I bought a 1998 GMC Suburban and drove it home. Wednesday I drove it to town made several stops and drove home (70 miles). I pulled into the barn to clean up the truck a little and l look around under the hood some more. Tried to start the truck and it would not stay running. I put my code reader on it and came up with 2 P1626 codes ( Current theft deterrent fuel enable signal lost)
I went onto ChevyTalk.com forum and asked for advice.
So far I have replaced the ignition harness (old one had 4 splices) and the ignition control housing (thinking the Passlock sensor may be bad)
I have tried the key relearn process several times (30 minutes each).
I am about to go crossed eyed watching Utube videos.
Any thoughts or suggestions
Thanks
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What does the manual say about rebooting the computer ?
Not being a smart ass, I had to fix a transmission problem that way. ;D
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I called a friend of mine who is service manager at a small town Chevrolet dealership. He told me to go to this site. After repeating it a few times, he sent me the link. He says it sounds like you need to reset the security.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system (https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system)
He went through a few things like bad replacement key and such, but when I questioned the timing and having just driven it he went to the security system reset. He said many things can trigger it, including hitting the panic button.
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Ok guys this morning I turned the key on in the suburban and the security light was flashing ( had not done that before). I went through the key relearn process and it started. I turned the truck off and I was able to restart it. I am going to keep it in the barn and keep starting it several time a day just to make sure.
Thanks
Ranger Dave
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I realized about 20 years ago, that we are no longer in control of anything in our cars and trucks.
I had been getting something out of my pickup and had turned on the dome light. About 4 hours later I remembered that I had left it on and rushed outside to turn it off before the battery was totally gone (pre-LED). To my surprise it was already off. I did some research (read the manual and some car guides) and realized:
You don't "turn-on" or "start" anything. What you do is you "suggest" to the car that it turn on the dome light. You "suggest" to the car that it start.
Twenty years later, I just try not to think about how little control I have over my car. It's better not to get worked up over it. I'm happy and the car is happy that way.
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I realized about 20 years ago, that we are no longer in control of anything in our cars and trucks.
I had been getting something out of my pickup and had turned on the dome light. About 4 hours later I remembered that I had left it on and rushed outside to turn it off before the battery was totally gone (pre-LED). To my surprise it was already off. I did some research (read the manual and some car guides) and realized:
You don't "turn-on" or "start" anything. What you do is you "suggest" to the car that it turn on the dome light. You "suggest" to the car that it start.
Twenty years later, I just try not to think about how little control I have over my car. It's better not to get worked up over it. I'm happy and the car is happy that way.
So true. We have a 2002 Excursion....when on vacation after we got it the accelerator pedal went out. I found it it was not hooked to anything but wires....I was shocked!
I keep saying I'm going to buy an old Dodge with a Cummins that has mechanical everything in it. I think they stopped around 2001 or 2003 with the mechanical injectors, etc. I would like to have something EMP proof that can't be programmed remotely to disengage the breaks and step on the gas....
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When my sister graduate from HS, 1971, dad bought her an IH TravelAll (a 70's version of an SUV). It had a 6 cylinder, no A/C and 2 wheel drive. Was the best vehicle ever for her. The really neat thing is mechanics loved to work on it. They could sit on the fender with their feet inside the engine compartment and work on the engine. No electronics, simple, reliable and tough. They're available still for ~$15,000
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So true. We have a 2002 Excursion....when on vacation after we got it the accelerator pedal went out. I found it it was not hooked to anything but wires....I was shocked!
I keep saying I'm going to buy an old Dodge with a Cummins that has mechanical everything in it. I think they stopped around 2001 or 2003 with the mechanical injectors, etc. I would like to have something EMP proof that can't be programmed remotely to disengage the breaks and step on the gas....
you are going to have to go back pre 97 to get that. Trusts me when i say this, the only good thing about the truck is the motor. Everything else is hot garbage on a stick. Even those you need to fix the dowel pin of death issue. Which is just removing the timing cover and bolting a small sheet metal plate over it. Most guys that do this find it already part of the way out. If it falls out it takes the timing gears followed by throwing metal thru the motor in less then 1 second. In other words you have a great boat anchor.
You want emt proof, you are going to have to build it and its going to hurt. I have a friend that keeps telling me i should build the truck i want. I keep telling him it wilk cost 100k for a truck worth 25 at best. He keeps telling me it cant be that much, not matter how much i break the cost for him. Same guy was also shocked when he got 5k estimates from wheel builders to build mountian bike wheel that could take a mxc tire.
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I don't know what all you have in mind TAB, but here is a basic starting point - Pick up a Korean War era M37 ($5,000 - $10,000 good to very good), early 70's Perkins 4 cyl diesel (70 HP) ($5,000 for complete tractor), add turbo ($500 for turbo, manifold and misc). You now have a 3/4 ton, four wheel drive, high clearance, four and two manual, pickup, with no electronics except for lights and starter. Add air compressor, air tank, and electric drive motor for about $1,500, and you now only need to worry about your generator.
Above is $17,000, and you can start expanding from there. Being excessive, another $13,000, will build you anything you wanted in other options. The only question after that $30K is how much you do yourself or hire done. Myself, I used to play this game, so $30K is all truck, engine, and parts, and except for some special machine shop work, it is all my own labor.
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Thats just it, i have zero desire to do it myself. I hate working on cars. I also dont want to spend 1000 hours doing it.
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I'm with TAB.
I've never been interested in wrenching
But the planning part is interesting ;D
Don't use the diesel . You'll be limited in fuel.
Use a 70's era surplus engine they are multi fuel, any thing from gas to vodka will run them.
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Tom, then you just saved $6,500, because in that $7,500 - $10,000, you will be getting a Continental multi fuel.
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Adjust the carb for your fuel and you've got surplus parts up the wazoo. ;D
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A big thing for me is i see cars as a means to get from point a to point b. I know lots of guys see it differently. I also for the better part of a decade spent 4+ hours a day, 350+ days a year. I know truckers and delivery guys put way more hours in, but when you average 200 miles a day, when you get home the last thing you want to do is touch a car