This is a good subject, and I appreciate good info, I don't consider any thing I've read so far as BAD info. Just varying experiences. My cleaning habits have changed through the years, started off with an Outers cleaning kit, with screw together tubes for rifle, pistol and shot gun, as I shot more and it wore out, got some stouter rods, better brushes, both bronze and plastic, bore guides, patch jags etc... Then the chemicals, Hoppe's #9 still an all time favorite, I buy it by the quart, and took a 30 caliber ammo can and filled it half way with Hoppe's for dunking. Of course everybody knows Hoppe's will remove nickle, I don't own any nickel firearms. Then came the copper removers, most are ammonia based, I hate ammonia based cleaners, yes they remove copper, but things can occur even if your careful. Point in fact, I ruined a new rem 700 varmint, by using Sweets 16 solvent to remove the copper, and then Shooters choice to clean the Sweets out, and lube and protect the barrel, turns out these 2 chemicals don't like each other. Looked like I left steel wool in the barrel, years later there was an article about this very thing in Precision Shooter magazine, too late, but at least I found out, I was not completely at fault.
Bore cleaning now.
1) Aero Kroil to start, to remove the powder fouling, a really wet patch, let sit for 10 minutes, followed by JB Bore compound to get the metal fouling, followed by FP10 lube, rust inhibitor for storage. I also use the FP10, on the outside of all the metal, apply by hand and wipe with a clean cloth, it is slick and has great rust inhibition. This is mainly for bolt actions, probably does not matter, but I worry about the JB getting into the gas ports of semi's and working its way through the gas system.
2) Same for handguns, but maybe using the lewis lead remover, after shooting a lot of lead bullets.
3) Simple green cleaner. Most of you, probably use this for cleaning around the house, I use it for parts cleaning and in corrosive ammo fouling, which includes black powder, smells good too. Make a gallon bucket of hot water, and add 1/2 cup of simple green, disassemble the firearm enough to put the muzzle in the liquid, and a cleaning rod with brush from the back side, even the brush will create a vacuum and pull the cleaner into the bore, work it back and forth 10-12 times and the corrosive stuff is gone, the hot water lets everything evaporate quickly. I Follow with Kroil, JB maybe, and FP10.
4) Ammonia based, for really copper fouled stuff, as a smith, sometimes a customer will bring something in that is really horrible. Clean with the ammonia base cleaner until blue does not show on the patch anymore, then use the simple green formula, which will neutralize the ammonia, followed by Kroil, JB maybe and FP10.
5) Corrosion X, a local Dallas product, but man does it eat rust without eating anything else. I use it on my milling machine table, not only to remove surface rust, but it is a great rust inhibitor as well. My milling machine is in the garage, with the washing machine, in the winter when the equipment is cold, but the clothes are in the washer, the humidity is very high, and water will drip from from the mill, from condensation, the corrosion X has kept it in good shape. Now neither corrosion X nor Kroil is a good lubricant, If your drilling a hole in metal don't reach for it to put on a drill bit for lube, does not work well at all.
But get a bore that looks pitted, or surface rust, swab it good with corrosion X and let sit for half and hour and go to cleaning, it is usually surprising.
External and internal protection.
1) FP10, Kroil and Corrosion X, apply by hand and wipe off with a clean cloth all metal surfaces, scopes, rings, bolt etc...
2) Birchwood Casey Sheath, foil pouch like eyeglass cloths, you can carry these in your pocket, and if caught in the rain they are a life saver, thin enough to run under the barrel channel to get the underside without disassembly. One cloth will usually treat every available external surface.
Lubrication.
1) FP10, liquid lube and inhibitor, be careful, Some AK47's will go full auto or at least double and triple when this is used. My primary lube.
2) Action magic 2, from Brownell's, this is part of any trigger or action job I do, apply to the sear/hammer mating surfaces. On revolvers, I use it inside where the fire control parts rub on the frame, around any coil springs, I apply with a tooth pick or cotton swab.
3) sil-glyde paste, silicon Ptfe paste, very slick and meant for putting on brake pads, very high heat and will not come off, I've seen this stuff on worn out brakes, and except for the dust, looks like new. This I would use on M1, M1a op rod rollers, and op rod springs as well as AR15 buffer springs. Ak and Sks recoil springs as well. Cheap too. You can buy it at Napa.
Rimfires.
I like molybedenum disulphide spray that evaporates and leaves only the lubricant with no oils, will not attract dirt. Great for rimfire actions.
Holsters?
Silicone spray, not the lubricant, the lubricant is grease like, this is very clear and light, and will make your holster fast without losing retension. Great for lubing rubber or car antennas as well. As with anything don't over do it.
Long winded as usual, but my 02 pennies. Nothing wrong with what's been said here in my opinion, I wonder if Slide glide is Sil-glyde?
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