I did some work on my AR-15s a couple days ago.

[Big Frank]

Yesterday I took my SIG Sauer Romeo-MSR 1x20mm Compact red dot off it's absolute co-witness riser mount. It doesn't come with a low mount or spacers or anything else for different heights. But it fits perfectly on a Vortex Sparc II Red Dot mount. I have a Sparc II mounted on my Mech-Tech CCU with a high mount. It also came with a low mount and a spacer. I may add the spacer to the unit on the CCU, but wasn't using the low mount for anything, so I put the Romeo-MSR on it, and mounted it on the APG Defense Ultimate Offset Sight Mount I got a couple weeks ago. I moved the Vortex Sport Cantilever 1-Inch Scope Mount ahead a a little bit on the flattop upper and put the Ultimate Offset Sight Mount with the Romeo-MSR on the back of the Picatinny rail where it doesn't have a slot in it, with the red dot off to the right. Whenever I get around to putting the rifle together with that upper, I plan on running the Romeo-MSR as a backup/short-range sight, instead of the pair of JE Machine Tech AR15 45 Degree Offset Flip-Up Gun Sights I bought as backup sights for it. The 20mm red dot is so small I don't think it will be getting in the way.

https://www.apgdefense.com/product-page/ultimate-offset-sight-mount

https://jemachinetech.us/ar15-45-degree-offset-flip-up-gun-sights/#topOfPage

[PegLeg45]

The thing I noticed about the 3-in-1 oil was the extreme temp range.

[Big Frank]

That's really extreme. Teflon doesn't melt or burn easily. Entering Earth's atmosphere it gets hot enough to burn up, but under normal  circumstances, it really stands up to the heat. A lot of good synthetic oils don't freeze easily either, but sometimes those types of oils are crazy expensive. I'll bet the 3-in-1 isn't too bad for what you get. I still have a can of 3-in-1 20W motor oil I bought when I lived in a mobile home back in the '80s. I used to pull the blower motor out of the furnace every year and add a few drops of oil on each side IIRC. Maybe 5-10 drops, I can't recall. Now I use it as cutting oil for my taps and dies. It's not the right consistency, but on smaller threads I hit it with something like WD-40 too. Or when the chips start to pile up I blow them away with the aerosol lube.

 During the Vietnam war, some guy invented Dri-Slide molybdenum disulfide dry film lubricant and sent it to the troops, free of charge. In our TMs that told how to repair M16s, anyplace the finish was rubbed off and it was shiny it said to spray it with dry film lubricant. It probably still does. And there's a Dri-Slide company making moly dry film lubricants and stuff again now.

https://www.drislide.com/

P.S. Weapons Lubricant https://www.drislide.com/collections/weapons-lubricant-1

[Big Frank]

I was so impressed with the Olight PL Turbo Valkyrie Tactical Light that I put on my VRF14, that I bought an Olight Baldr Pro Tactical Light & Green Laser to mount on one of my ARs. It's powered by two CR123A batteries, side by side and has a strobe mode just like the other light. But has a max 1,350 lumens instead of 800, max light intensity is 16,900 candela, and beam distance is 853 ft (260 m.). Plus it has a green laser. There's a toggle switch at the rear of the laser that allows you to choose between the white light or laser, or both at the same time with the switch in the center position. It's Left for Laser, by the way. This one has a quick-release throw lever too, which will make it east to move from one gun to another. Right now it's is clamped to an aluminum 5 slot M-LOK Pic rail I'm putting on my UTG Pro Super Slim rail. All the UTG Pro stuff is made here in Michigan. I don't usually buy Chinese stuff, but made an exception with Olight and bought a dozen lights. If the name Baldr sounds faintly familiar but you can't place it, he was the Norse god of light.

This light is going for $149.95 right now in black or desert tan, and the midnight blue version for 10 bucks more should be out around Wednesday. Olight is made in Dongguan, China, but it's not the typical Chinese junk. This is a state of the art factory full of robots, not peasants. Their torture lab is no joke either.

https://www.olightstore.com/baldr-pro



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jd5twARyguQ

[Big Frank]

These guys like Olight too, and I trust sootch00 more than the average YouTuber. If Olight is good enough for his EDC, and he knows his life could depend on his ability to see with it, it can't be too bad.

Long Live The Demolitia! 

[Sponsor]

[PegLeg45]

If I remember it right, 3-in-1 is a 20 weight oil blend. Our tool and die department used to order 19W tool oil by the 55 gallon drums...usually four at a time. They used it for cutting oil and air tool oil. Smelled just like 3-in-1 branded oil.

The company I worked for had a lot of high heat areas....some up to 1400° F and we were constantly looking for grease to use in bearings in those areas. We used teflon grease in a lot of high heat areas and it did a good job.. we also used a brand from a local area company about thirty miles away called Alithicon B-51.

THE B-51 ALITHICON SYNTHETIC HIGH TEMPERATURE BEARING LUBRICANT IS SPECIFICALLY FORMULATED TO BE APPLIED WHERE CONVENTIONAL SOAP-THICKENED, OR SO CALLED NON-MELT GREASES, WILL NOT PROVIDE ADEQUATE PERFORMANCE.
THE B-51 ALITHICON LUBRICANT IS A SYNTHETICALLY THICKENED GREASE WHICH EMPLOYS A HIGH THERMAL STABLE SYNTHETIC BASE FLUID, ALLOWING IT TO PROVIDE SUPERIOR LUBRICATION AND PROTECTION TO BEARINGS WHICH MUST OPERATE IN TEMPERATURES OF UP TO 700° F WITHOUT MELTING OR HARDENING IN SERVICE.
TWO ADDITIONAL IMPORTANT FEATURES OF THE B-51 ALITHICON LUBRICANT IS: BEING WATERPROOF, RESISTING WATER WASH-OUT, AND HAVING A LONG SERVICE LIFE, REDUCING GREASE CONSUMPTION AS MUCH AS 800% WHEN COMPARED TO OTHER GREASES NORMALLY USED IN THESE APPLICATIONS.
THE B-51 ALITHICON LUBRICANT HAS AN O.K. TIMKEN LOAD RATING OF 100 lbs, MINIMUM, AND WILL PRODUCE AND EXTENDED BEARING LIFE OF UP TO 400%.
IT IS NOT NECESSARY TO LIMIT THE USE OF THE B-51 ALITHICON SYNTHETIC BEARING LUBRICANT ONLY TO BEARINGS OPERATING UNDER EXTREME TEMPERATURES OR WET CONDITIONS TO JUSTIFY THE ADDITIONAL COST. MANY LONG-TIME USERS OF THE B-51 ALITHICON LUBRICANT STATE THAT IT WAS PRIMARILY PURCHASED FOR USE IN THESE EXTREME, HIGH MAINTENANCE AREAS, BUT IT WAS LATER TRIED IN BEARINGS ON MACHINERY OPERATING IN AMBIENT TEMPERATURES AND UNDER AVERAGE CONDITIONS. BY REDUCING LUBRICANT CONSUMPTION, THE COST DIFFERENCE WAS JUSTIFIED.

USER BENEFITS:
* WITHSTANDS HIGH TEMPERATURES OF UP TO 700° F
* WATERPROOF * EXTENDS BEARING LIFE OF UP TO 400%
* WILL NOT MELT OR SLING FROM BEARINGS
* REDUCES LUBRICANT CONSUMPTION OF UP TO 800%
* EXCELLENT PUMPABILITY THROUGH CENTRALIZED LUBRICATION SYSTEMS
* AN O.K. TIMKEN LOAD RATING OF 100 lbs, MINIMUM

[Big Frank]

When I was in the army I used 2 different kinds of grease. When motor pool pulled the wheel bearings out of my truck to be cleaned and repacked as part of regular PM, they didn't have time to do it. That was my job, so off to the solvent tank I went. Then I sat next to a bucket of BRB -- GREASE, BALL & ROLLER BEARING, and got busy working it in with my bare hands. Good thing my truck was only a 6x6 and the trailer only 2 wheels.    That stuff was almost the color of peanut butter, but lighter, and way stickier. I tried finding a picture of a can online and came up with a NSN. When I looked that up I came up with AeroShell 22. Shell's page has all the specs on it and the first picture I found was on a site selling packages of 6, 1/2 ounce capsules to lube locks with. They say, "Although AS22 is formulated as a lubricant for aircraft, testing of over 180,000 continuous opening cycles on a combination lock without a single miss has shown it to be an excellent lubricant for mechanical combination locks as well." I'd hate to be the person who had to open a combination lock 180,000 continuous times. I'm lucky if I can open one 3 continuous times without screwing up. Shell says it has a useful operating temperature range of -54°C to +177°C. My computer's calculator says that's -65.2 to 350.6 when converted from Commie to Freedom units.   

The other grease, which I actually used a lot of was GAA, GREASE, AUTOMOTIVE & ARTILLERY. It was just regular grease, kind of a golden brown-yellow gel. I had to repack the shocks on four-deuce mortars a lot. Especially when they sat out in the rain, which seemed to happen a lot, except in the dead of winter. I had to repair a lot or T&E (traverse & elevation) mechanisms on those and 81mm mortars too, no matter the weather but especially when they sat out in the rain. I didn't check the specs on GAA since it's plain old grease and it doesn't matter.

https://www.shell.com/business-customers/aviation/aeroshell/aeroshell-greases/grease-22.html

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M30_mortar

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M29_mortar

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M35_series_2%C2%BD-ton_6%C3%976_cargo_truck

[Big Frank]

If I switch my CCU to QD swivels to match everything else, it's going to be a little more difficult. It has a plastic CAR-15 style stock with no metal sling loops, and no holes to fasten one into. I compared this stock to my 6-position M4 stock and the butt is about 1" shorter top to bottom. The funny thing is, I have slip-on rubber butt-pads on both of them and they each fit. I knew there were 2 sizes of stocks but never thought about my butt pads and stocks being different because I never compared them to each other. To be honest, I forgot it was a CAR stock. I think someone makes a double ended QD socket, so I can drill a hole sideways through the web of the stock to put it in. I just have to find it online and see if it works. I've seen some plastic coated metal reproductions of the original CAR-15 stocks for people building reproductions. I just checked and found a black coated aluminum one for $229.00. Wowzers! I like the $50 and under price of plastic a lot better, authenticity be damned. I never did like the way the sling is on the top of this stock, but didn't want to rig it with a loop of paracord, so I left it alone. I have an M16A2 Top Sling Adapter I could use to go from top to bottom on it, instead of bottom to top, but I think it would look goofy, and I want QD swivels anyway.

P.S. Maybe there's a QD socket that fastens through the sling slot, so I wouldn't have to drill a hole in the stock. Anyone know of one?

[Big Frank]

So, I used the Midwest Industries QD Rear Sling Adapter for 4-position CAR Stock on the CCU. Another good option I saw was the Grovtec  Hollow Stock Push Button Base for $20. I would have had to drill a half inch hole in the thin web of the stock and screw this thing in, just like this pistol brace. But, since there's a hex nut on the other side, and a hole to stick a hex key in, it's strictly one-sided. Once get another Magpul QD socket to go on the right front rail I'll be all set for a QD sling. I have a tactical light on the left rail.

https://midwestindustriesinc.com/qd-rear-sling-adapter-for-4-position-car-stock/

https://grovtec.com/products/hollow-stock-push-button-base-gthm198-coming-soon

[Big Frank]

I took the can cannon off the piece of crap X-Products billet upper, and put it on the Windham Weaponry upper I never got around to returning last year, or the year before. Now the upper and lower fit together nice and tight like they're supposed to. No more rotation around the axis. I bought a forward assist assy. with pin from CDNN Sports for $7.99. I planned on buying a teardrop forward assist for my Colt "A1.5", M16A1E1-type upper and using the round one off it on this upper, but I'll keep a round one on that upper too, for now. I took the ejection port cover off the Colt and put it on the can cannon WW upper. I replaced it with one I bought a year ago, or whenever. I put the can cannon and Colt upper away in their FIELDSPORT AR15 UPPER PADDED SLEEVES from CDNN, then got the Colt back out. I got out some spare M-LOK hardware and put the Midwest Industries Tactical Bottle Opener, ​M-LOK on the MOE SL Hand Guard, Carbine-Length – AR15/M4. Then I added the M-LOK AFG - Angled Fore Grip right behind it. There was half a slot exposed between them so I cut half a section off an ERGO 4 slot M-LOK Rail Cover and popped it in there. It fit right the first time.

https://www.cdnnsports.com/ar15-upper-padded-sleeve-fieldsport.html

P.S. I forgot to mention I added a red/green optic with riser to the can cannon,  now I don't need a riser for the red dot I had on it. I bought a 3/4" high 5" 14 slot Picatinny riser from CDNN and have to send it back. I tightened it up all the way and it flopped around. I tried it on 2 flattop uppers with the same result. I think I only have 7 golf balls, so it's going to be hard getting the sight zeroed in before I lose them all. Then I'll have to unscrew the golf ball launcher tube and switch back to cans.