Glock trigger jobs

[RK0281]

I have been told by some people that you can, and should, get a trigger job on a glock to smooth out the trigger pull. But I'm really skeptical the trigger is a little ruff but I'm used to it and i don't know if i want some one carving up the insides of my gun, so does any one know any thing about this including who is qualified  to do the work and how much it should cost, and especially if it's even worth doing?

[Mojave Desert]

My favorite Glock trigger setup is the standard 5.5 pound.  Although it will never compare with a match trigger in a steel pistol from what year was it? , it does smooth up some with use.  Buy ammo with the money you would have spent on a gunsmith.

[Big Frank]

I see a lot of ads for new connectors like Ghost Rocket and others. Maybe they work.

[Solus]

The Ghost Rocket and a device from Lone Wolf both work to stop over travel.

I prefer the Lone Wolf device because it is adjustable with a allen wrench so it can be adjusted after initial install.  The Ghost Rocket is adjusted by filing until the desired setting is achieved.  I have not used the Ghost for any length of time to determine if normal wear might change the adjustment.

the Ghost Rocket will also change the pull weight to 3.5lb.  The Ghost Rocket is a connector and they are used to adjust the pull weight by the angle of sear engagement.

You can use the Wolf Device with a 3.5lb connector and achieve the same results with the adjustment option available.

To make the trigger pull smoother, you will need to smooth and polish contact surfaces to remove burrs that might be present. A complete polishing job can also reduce trigger pull to 2.5 lb.

The Wolf Device and the Ghost Rocket can be installed by anyone who is comfortable field stripping and removing the trigger control group.

Generally a 2.5 lb pull is thought to be to light for duty or defense carry because it can be set off by a nervous twitch..I guess...but if you are well disciplined and your finger is not on the trigger until you have identified your target and have made the decision to shoot, it should not be a problem.

If you are unfamiliar with the disassembly of your Glock (or other firearm) or would like to be able to do more of your own work on them, and you are not aware of AGI, you might want to visit this link:

http://www.americangunsmith.com/

[twyacht]

It seems there is a larger contingent of "Pistolier's" out there that think 90% of production pistols should get a trigger job.

I had the same "advice" about my M+P. Don't get me wrong, some pistols really need "a job",overtravel, creep, reset, pull lbs. etc,...can be great for some and a "turd" , for others. The competition shooters seem to like a little love on a trigger, some are fine without.

I had one of my 1911's done, and it is WAY mo' betta!. But I was "tweaking it anyway", so what the heck. But the rest are left the heck alone.

Shot many a "G" gun, all stock out of the box, and they are what they are, and fine for me. IMHO, I don't shoot competitively. But do shoot every week.

If one wants to "tweak" a trigger, that's a personal choice, and depends on the pistol. When I buy a pistol NIB, I test fire it with live ammo, or at least ask to dry fire it with snap caps. Most dealers around here don't mind, and I don't buy a pistol with the mindset "Oh, I need a trigger job".

[Sponsor]

[jnevis]

For  a defensive gun a few people have recomended a 3.5 connector with the NY-1 trigger spring.  I have that set up in my 23 and it takes up a lot of the stacking.  For a competition gun that could be a defensive gun just the 3.5 connector seems to be the way to go.  I did the work myself and it wasn't all that hard but I would recomend a diagram/manual to get it right.  For a competition only gun Glockmiester has a trigger kit that comes pre-assembled and polished that just drops in.  The stock trigger is good for most people.  I shot it that way for a long time and only changed it since a friend had the parts available and wanted to see the difference.

[haycreek]

I have all three, the 5.5 stock, the 3.5 ghost ulra , and the 3.5 ghost with the NY1 spring. All three are fine, just depends on your personsal choice. Never thought that I would want the 3.5/NY1 trigger, but after I tried it I liked it. I shoot revolvers a lot, so the D/A feel of the trigger is acceptable. The 3.5/NY1 combo may be the best of the three for a safe carry. My accuracy is as good with it as the other two. I may end up with the 3.5/NY1 all Glocks, with that setup,  The NY1 combo of mine has a 6 pound, very smooth trigger, no break at the end that my pull me off the target due to overtravel.

[VetteVert]

Anyone use the Lone Wolf device for overtravel adjustment?

VV

[Solus]

Anyone use the Lone Wolf device for overtravel adjustment?

VV

I have.  I posted a bit about it above.

[jimbob_texas]

A little late to this discussion, but you've got a few "stock" options for Glocks.  5.5# and 3.5# are the most common connector options for Glocks, but the G34 and G35 (long slide) come with 4.5# triggers.  Personally, I don't care for the feel of the 3.5# trigger - it's mushy, with no definite "wall" when you take up the slack.  The 4.5 and 5.5 have a definite stopping point before the shot breaks.  The New York triggers are worth avoiding, unless you want a revolver-like trigger pull on your Glock.  That's what they were designed for, to help the NYPD transition from revolvers to Glocks.

If you decide to take up the homemade trigger job, a little Flitz on a soft cloth is all you need, and just lightly polish the metal-on-metal points in the trigger assembly.  I'm not telling where - I'm not going to be liable - but there are reliable references out on the Internets.  Just don't over-do it no matter what - I've got virtual select-fire G17 trigger now (that I don't use, obviously) as a result of being too agressive on the polishing.   

There are other options like the Vanek trigger, but are generally not legal for competition.