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[m25operator]

Honestly, a 90+ year old shotgun with a 90% finish. Save it as it is, brown patina is natural and expected after so many years, clean it and preserve it, I have not used ezzox, so cannot comment on it. Is the finish smooth? When you wipe it with an gun oil wetted patch or rag, does it show up brown?
If it does come up brown, some surface rust may be there. If hardly any brown comes off, it's just natural aging of the original blue finish. Original finish has a higher value than refinished on a collectable that old.Just in case you don't know, damascus barrels were meant for black powder and should never be shot with modern ammunition!!! My favorite cleaners and preservatives/lubricants are ( not necessarily in order )  hoppes #9, shooters choice original, fp10 lubricant, rem oil lubricant,  kroil for loosening powder fouling, jb bore cleaner after the kroil on rifles, followed by fp10 or remoil for lubricant and preservative. Congrats on having such a fine old shotgun.

[Walter45Auto]

I really think that would be a very usefull forum.

[Crescendo]

4) let's get some questions and answers going. 

A question on functional durability of weapon finish -

I'm anticipating purchase of a pistol available in Blued, Matte Stainless or Polished Stainless.  Discounting looks and presentation for the moment, which of the three finishes should retain the finish best (show less wear) through normal wear patterns relating to holstering and cleaning?

[Michael Bane]

Bill Laughridge at Cylinder & Slide once wrote that I should be banned by federal law from owning a Dremel tool. He was right, too.

Michael B

[m25operator]

As far as a finish, well there are many. But from the 3 you mentioned, matte stainless has it's merits, but is hard to touch up without a bead blaster, polished stainless is easier to touch up, by buffing, and does not show holster wear, but does show light scratching more. You did not mention, brushed stainless, it can be touched up with fine scotch brite pads, going in the direction of the original finish lightly, and since the finish is actually fine scratching, it hides scratches pretty well. Some of the synthetic finishes like robar, metalloy, armalloy, hard chrome etc... are very resistant to holster wear and scratching, but cannot be touched up at home. A good commercial blue finish is usually easily touched up with good quality cold blues when the time comes to pass the gun on, but normal wear and tear on something you own to use is only cosmetic, a tool that is used often is going to show some handling, it's how it works that counts. Personally I like brushed stainless.

[Sponsor]

[Crescendo]

Personally I like brushed stainless. 

M25 - thanx for your time and the commentary -
Crescendo

[Crescendo]

Alright, I kinda like where this going. How about we start off with tips and techniques. I am going to throw a few out there and see if you lilke.

Looks like things are slowing down a bit - it seems I'm the only one willing to admit I don'y know everything?

[DonWorsham]

Looks like things are slowing down a bit - it seems I'm the only one willing to admit I don'y know everything?

Sorry Crescendo, I'm way ahead of you there...cause I don't know nothing! I'm sure (if I tried) drop-in parts wouldn't work for me.

[Crescendo]

Sorry Crescendo, I'm way ahead of you there...cause I don't know nothing! I'm sure (if I tried) drop-in parts wouldn't work for me.

Touch`e - -  I understand that 

[purple88yj]

Sorry Crescendo, I'm way ahead of you there...cause I don't know nothing! I'm sure (if I tried) drop-in parts wouldn't work for me.

Don't feel bad, it took me two weeks to get a "drop in" ambi safety to work right on my 1911. Now that it is in, it is one of the crispest safties I have felt, both going on and coming off. There is a really sweet, distinct click when that safety comes off.