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[m25operator]

That's the kind of topic I'm looking for, glad you accomplished it , but I might have helped you out. There is a wealth of knowledge on this forum, try it.

[m25operator]

Heres a few more tips.
1) Ever have stuck scope ring screws? Next time use a pair of needle nose vise grips, and a leather pad, about 1/8'' thick, cut into a strip slightly wider than the plier jaws. clamp down on the edge of
the ring to bring the ring gap tighter on that side. Just to the side of the screw that won't loosen. The
leather will not scratch the finish, and this takes stress off the screw. If that does'nt work. Use a soldering iron with a small tip, and place the tip on top of the screw, until you see grease, oil or lock tite start bubbling out of the bottom. Some scope rings are rounded near the screw and this technique is not as effective. Also if you have allen head screws that feel loose to the wrench like it's going to round out, use some valve lapping compound in the hole, the abrasive in the compound helps grip better.

[Crescendo]

Heres a few more tips.   

M25 - I'm contemplating replacing the Guide Rod (with a beefier stainless model) and recoil spring on an alloy frame SIG P220.  Under normal conditions, is this considered a "drop in" action, with only full fire function testing involved?  Or, is there a need / benefit for fitting of some sort?

Thanx, Crescendo

[m25operator]

Normally it is a drop in procedure. Guide rods come normally in 3 types. 1 piece, 2 piece and captured.
1 piece rods should just drop in. 2 piece rods are normally threaded together and may make disassembly slower and if not properly tensioned could come loose while firing and lock the pistol up. If anyone uses a 2 piece, check the tension regularly. Captured guide rods, have the spring and rod together as a module. and the recoil spring won't shoot the guide rod away if it gets loose from you. After installing any of these, work the slide by hand ( empty gun of course ) 20 times and feel for any binding. Disassemble and inspect the guide rod, frame and slide for any abnormal rub marks, if any are present, you can send that one back, or perhaps polish what you have. Quality parts will usually not have this problem. Now go to the range and shoot 50 rounds through it, unload it and inspect it again. If all is well you are probably home free.

[Crescendo]

Normally it is a drop in procedure. . . . Quality parts will usually not have this problem. . . . If all is well you are probably home free. 

Thanx M - I appreciate the guidance -

[Sponsor]

[Crescendo]

bump to get this crap off of here -

[Crescendo]

4) let's get some questions and answers going. 

I've a few SIG's I shoot fairly regularly - I have been using TW25B grease on the rails and slide to assure sufficient lubrication.  My 'normal' range visit encumbers from 100 - 250 rounds, and the TW25B has performed flawlessly.

I plan on taking two SIG P220's to the range next visit, and plan to run 500 rounds each through each pistol.  I purchased some Enos's Slide-Glide and plan to test it against the TW25B.  If anyone has done a similar test I would appreciate your results and comments.

Thanx, Richard

[m25operator]

Good evening from Texas , Richard.

I have never heard of the lubricant your using, I would like to know more about it, and also I have never used slide glide, but I think Brian Enos is a straight shooting kind of guy. Theres so much out there that I stick with things I know work, even though the new stuff might be superior. My number one lube is FP10, but it does'nt stop there, moly products like dry slide is great too, especially for dirty rounds like .22 lr. A wet lube can catch things like dirt, or unburnt powder, and .22's leave alot of powder residue. I also use a paste called action magic by Brownells, that I coat internals with, it is a moly paste that can act like a trigger job, it's very slick. Rem oil is a good lube as well. Military LSA, at least I Think thats what it's called is a teflon based lube and it's very good. You want lubrication = slippery, and protection, anti corrosion and moisture barrier. But what works  in 30-110 degree heat may not work in -30 degree cold, eg.. Alaskan hunting or worse. Since your going to be shooting Sig's,
they will probably work any way you go, but the lube will protect and prolong your investment. Now go wear them out. Let us know how your TW25 B WORKS.

[longtrain58]

Hi guys,

I have purchased a FEG PA63 in 9x18.  It is reccommened on several Makarov forums to change to a Wolf 13# or 17# recoil spring to lessen felt recoil and to help protect the aluminum frame. ( Aluminum titanium frame alloy)  Also, they reccommend  to change the main spring to an 11# spring to lesen the trigger pull.

BTW, I love the little PA63, 100 rounds and no misfire and fairly accurate in SA, however, it's light weight is rough on the hand.  It weighs about 20 oz. laoded

My question is in reference to changing springs.  In your opinion should I do it and what strength spring for the slide 13# or 17#  I feel changing the main spring is a no brainer.

I wonder if the 17# spring would affect the way the pistol ejects casing?  The springs are cheap, 9.00 for the recoil spring and 7.50 for the main spring.

Best regards,

[Crescendo]

I have never heard of the lubricant your using, I would like to know more about it, . Let us know how your TW25 B WORKS. 

M25 - sorry for the late response - now that it is decent weather, I'm catching up on my Honey-Do list.

Here is a link to the Mil-Comm site for the TW25 products:  http://www.mil-comm.com/

SIG Arms has recently adopted placing a small container of the TW25B Grease in with their new pistols - their recommended lube for the slide / rails, barrel, locking mechanism, and most things moving.  I have not yet gotten to the range for the TW25B / Slide-Glide comparison, but I have about 4000 rounds through 6 SIG pistols, some all stainless , some with alloy frame.

A decent application for the range seems to be a bit of  the TW25B Grease applied with a brush such that the white grease just appears to be white grease and would definitely leave fingerprints if touched.. For carry, a little bit less works well, although I have never had theTW25B applied sufficiently thick to run off the weapon.  Even if the grease were to dry after setting a several weeks, it still does the job well - some affectionados simply top the grease with a touch of oil , however, I prefer to keep it lube consistent and ready to go.

I should be getting tio the range soon, and I have the Enos Slide Glide products: Slide Glide Lite (Light Viscosity); and Slide Glide #1 (Medium Viscosity).  They also have the High Viscosity Slide Guide (Thick) which I believe is for use in West Texas during the summer months.

I will post my results and thoughts after the shoot.
Richard