New Addition To The Family. Thanks Santa!!!

[Timothy]

Company called Aholster out of TN....Kydex, using it right now!  http://www.lefthandholster.com/



I basically took my Ruger apart and with a jewelers file, deburred every surface where it touches another inside the trigger assembly and the hammer assembly/strut area without touching the sear surfaces.  It really made a huge difference afterward.  After that, I replaced my main spring with Wolfe 10 lb and thinking about replacing the trigger return spring as well.

It's coming along nicely...

[twyacht]

Thanks Timothy, they look really good for South Florida weather, I just "shot" them an email, looks like their "j-frame" version via southpaw, would do the trick.

The pic is great it seats in there really well, trigger, cylinder, well holstered, with good grip accessibility. Nice and thin material.

I gave them your name in the referral. Appreciate the heads up on the jeweler's file, and deburring as needed. I think 100 rds. should also "get her all settled in".

tw

[Timothy]

A dremel tool would probably speed up the deburring process, I just didn't want to get too agressive.

Thank Don Worsham as well, he's the one that first mentioned Aholster...

good luck Tom...as far as muzzle flash?  Not bad with .38's but .357 mags are a HOOT at sunset!    

I would imagine that +P loads are gonna sting a little bit.....that thing weighs about 16-18 ounces?

p.s.  E12, Tom, thanks for the link to the snubby ballistics...

[tombogan03884]

 NO DREMEL  !!!!!!!  Not enough control and to aggressive,  I would use a very fine stone, Ruby might be a bit TOO fine but I would rather work longer than have to find parts because I went to far.

[Timothy]

NO DREMEL  !!!!!!!  Not enough control and to aggressive,  I would use a very fine stone, Ruby might be a bit TOO fine but I would rather work longer than have to find parts because I went to far.

Agreed, besides it's fun to play with all the parts, see how the mechanism works and know that you can disassemble it and fix something if need be! 

Don't forget the "inside the bag" disassembly so the springs don't end in that 1970's shag carpet!

 

[Sponsor]

[twyacht]

Agreed, besides it's fun to play with all the parts, see how the mechanism works and know that you can disassemble it and fix something if need be! 

Don't forget the "inside the bag" disassembly so the springs don't end in that 1970's shag carpet!

 

NO DREMEL  !!!!!!!  Not enough control and to aggressive,  I would use a very fine stone, Ruby might be a bit TOO fine but I would rather work longer than have to find parts because I went to far.

I'll go with NO Power Tools, and see if I can post some pics when I open it up. Just want it good and clean, with no bits of metal in any of the "works"....

Thank you both. I don't have shag, but tile, and any small parts can cover 32 feet like teflon on ice,....

tw

[MikeBjerum]

I believe that it is MB that was talking about polishing the feed ramp on a 1911 and said there should be a law against him owning a dremel.

[PegLeg45]

Nice rig, TW...very nice.

If you get tired of it....send north and I'll keep it for you.   




I wish I still had my Taurus Model 85. It was a good shooter, but a friend wanted it more than I did and was willing to trade a Super Blackhawk for it (even swap) and I had to do it.

[ellis4538]

twyacht, nice blaster!  For something a little lighter give Federal's 125 gr. Nyclad a try.  It was originally designed at S&W when they sold ammo and it was called "The Chief Special" because it is non +P and designed for use in non+P snubbies. Federal bought the rights to it and sold it for a while and have brought it out again.  Pretty good rep. also.  I carry it in my non +P rated 642.

FWIW

Richard

[twyacht]

Took the 3 screw plate off and closely examined the internal components. Yes, there is/was tiny metal particulates around the hammer, trigger, transfer bar,main spring assembly and pin. Pics taken before cleaning.




You can actually see some "metal dust" in this pic.

Took mineral spirits and poured it through and let it drip dry. I'm glad I'm not in a freezing part of the country, the factory oil must be 20W-50 thick.

Painstakingly wiped down everything, toothpick and micro patches, didn't see anything that needed any "de-burring" all mated parts were really smooth.

No springs flew away, no pins ran off with the elves, and it is as clean and lubed and ready to get "dirty" on Sat.

Thanks again for all the tips and tricks, bought some Bianchi Speed Strips, and hope everyone has a great Christmas.

tw