AR-15 Maintenance Kit --- What parts do I need to have on hand?

[Rastus]

We're coming down to the bell (inauguration), what parts do I need to have for regular maintenance of my AR's.  I haven't put over 300 or so rounds downrange in any of them...so I'm looking for a bit of help.  I want to keep them health over time.

What is going to fail and need to be replaced on a regular basis...like an o-ring and what is not likely to fail or wear out but is nice to have (like a gas tube that you twist off when cleaning).

Thanks,
Ken

[Pathfinder]

We're coming down to the bell (inauguration), what parts do I need to have for regular maintenance of my AR's.  I haven't put over 300 or so rounds downrange in any of them...so I'm looking for a bit of help.  I want to keep them health over time.

What is going to fail and need to be replaced on a regular basis...like an o-ring and what is not likely to fail or wear out but is nice to have (like a gas tube that you twist off when cleaning).

Thanks,
Ken

I wondered the same thing, then Sportsman's Warehouse Guide was running sales on parts kits for ARs earlier last year. DPMS standard kits in fact. So I bought a couple. But I would like to know too, since the kits came with 1 of everything, and if there is something that more routinely breaks and I should have 10 of them, I would kinda like to know that.

[Big Frank]

After inspecting and repairing a couple thousand M16-A1s, I haven't seen any parts that are especially prone to breakage or wear unless they're not properly lubricated, or it's otherwise abused.

The exception is my number one parts reccomendation - a set of spare bolt rings for when the original set wears out. Better yet get a McFarland bolt ring that Armalite makes. It's one continuous piece instead of 3 seperate rings. It only costs $1.25, 5 cents more a set of regular rings, and eliminates a couple potential problems. http://www.armalite.com/ItemForm.aspx?item=EB0121&Category=8c79b6d7-df94-4498-9d3e-c76eaa613b0a

Next on my list is a bolt cam pin retaining pin because you're screwed without it. A spare extractor and spring with rubber insert is next. You could get a few basics like that or spend hundreds more on a complete rebuild kit, or something in between. Some other parts to consider are spare screws, pins, and springs for everything, a complete spare bolt, and sights. I don't plan on shooting enough to wear out a hammer, trigger, safety, etc. but they all wear out eventually. I had to replace a safety detent and spring on mine but the safety was still good.

If you shoot in competition you'll wear things out faster than the army does so the competitors will have to advise us what breaks on them.

[Lmccrock]

I am sure everyone has their own "pet" spare part. The only one I needed was an extractor spring, when I began to have extractor failures at a match. I never thought of carrying a spare charging handle, however, Jerry Miculek had one break in a match and now there is the "Miculek Steel Charging Handle" (http://www.dpmsinc.com/store/products/?prod=1331&cat=1592). I guess it helps to be famous. 

I ended up getting a "Complete AR15 Spare Parts Kit" from Bushmaster, includes every spring and a bunch of pins and extractor and gas rings, etc. About $40.

Lee

[1776 Rebel]

Parts are one thing but tools are the other. What tools are a must for AR repair? I am thinking that a torque wrench for barrel replacement is a good thing to have. Any others?

[Sponsor]

[Big Frank]

Buy or download ARMY TM 9-1005-319-23&P or another repair manual. It shows what tools you'll need and how to use them. It even shows how to fabricate some special tools.

And punches, either flat tipped, or with special tips for roll pins are the main thing you need. I have plain flat tps.

If you don't already have an 8 ounce machinists hammer or something similar, buy one. You shouldn't use a 24 ounce framing hammer on guns.

Parralell-jaw pliers with a small lengthwise groove in one jaw make it a snap to hold onto pins and poke them into holes. Mine have a wire cutter on the side that gives you compound leverage when you cut anything. I use them like a wrench too since the jaws are always parralell. Even the kid down the street from me could tell you they're my favorite pliers.

If you're going to change a barrel you'll need a barrel wench, torque wrench, and vise jaws or else this other thing. I think they call an armoror's block and it's molded out of plastic. We just used aluminum vise jaws machined to fit the barrel when I was in the army. At home, I just glued up 2x4s and driled and cut them to make wooden jaws. They didn't cost anything and lasted long enough to change a few barrels. A barrel alignment gauge helps line up the barrel nut to the gas tube hole in the upper, but isn't a neccesity. I changed a lot of barrels in the army without a gauge.

See Brownells for everything.