The Down Range Forum
Member Section => Handguns => Topic started by: fitebak on April 13, 2009, 04:53:50 PM
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Newbie here so forgive any repetition. I did do a search and answered some of my questions but . . . . . I have been shooting a 1911 colt full frame for many years. Recently got interested in the Glock for the simplicity and light weight. I am considering the G19 or 23 (9mm or .40) as I like something a little larger than the sub-compacts. The 1911 is a little heavy for a skinny tall guy for all day carry. The G19/23 seems like a nice compromise in capacity and size.
Which is easier ammo to get now and what is price comparison between the 9 and .40? I believe the ballistics of the .40 are between the 9mm and .45. There are good self defense loads for the 9 but the .40 is superior in some ways. If I wanted to stick with a .45 I could go to the G36 but then I'm back to only a 6 rd. magazine. I was considering a 3" Kimber but now considering the Glock for simplicity and that sometimes I get misfires from the 1911 grip safety (had mine pinned).
Looking for some thoughts on this matter. My shooting activities involve personal carry, solo ATV riding in the desert and mountains, car travel, range shooting, occasional shooting school (may do Rob's in May in CO), and perhaps some IDPA this summer. I plan to keep my 1911.
Are the G 19/23 available on the market now? thanks for any comments
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I'm a skinny tall guy ( 125 lbs 6') I never had a prob with a full size 1911, but I did find a commanders length more confy when I had to sit down.
as far as 9 mm vs 40... If you can control the 40, get the 40.
oh wait, you said glock, never mind get the 9 you don't want to kaboom.
;D
really, never reload 40 brass from a glock if you doing any thing other then light loads.
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as far as 9 mm vs 40... If you can control the 40, get the 40.
oh wait, you said glock, never mind get the 9 you don't want to kaboom.
really, never reload 40 brass from a glock if you doing any thing other then light loads.
on that note.. yes get the glock 19 i prefer the 9mm to the 40.. even though i have both a 26 and a 22... however the higher capacity of the nine, lower recoil and more available ammo makes it a invaluable addition to any arsenal you may have
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Here is a rather extensive examination of the 9mm vs .40 subject:
http://www.downrange.tv/forum/index.php/topic,1896.0.html
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I'm a skinny tall guy ( 125 lbs 6') I never had a prob with a full size 1911, but I did find a commanders length more confy when I had to sit down.
as far as 9 mm vs 40... If you can control the 40, get the 40.
oh wait, you said glock, never mind get the 9 you don't want to kaboom.
;D
really, never reload 40 brass from a glock if you doing any thing other then light loads.
That is why I love my Steyr's. They have a FULLY SUPPORTED barrel that prevents case budging. In fact the Steyr's were designed for the 40S&W and then adapted to 9mm and 357sig.
By the way, 357sig will give you about 10-15% greater ballistics over a 40 and up to 30% better than 9mm.
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Looks like we have limp wrists here if you cant handle a 40S&W glock of any kind. Everyone in my house is well trained in the use of the G22. My girlfriend is 122lbs and she owns her own G22 that she keeps at the house when Im away.
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Go with the glock 19!!! Look, any glock will do what is supposed to.
1 Shoot 4" at 15-20 yds
2 Go bang EVERY time you pull the trigger no matter what you load it with
Yes I've drunk the Kool-aid, but it doesnt make it less true.The glock is a weapon. Not a target pistol, not a hunting firearm, not a work of art, a weapon. Nothng more, nothing less. No BS, no half-cock or safties or anything else. Just point and click.
That leaves you with the choice of .40 vs 9 mm. Frankly they are both good rounds, and a zillion police and sheriffs departments agree. I would just say that the .40, a compromise between the the 9mm and .45, is not that much better than the 9. It has fewer choices of mags than will fit a 19, and is a lot more expensive and harder to find than either 9mm or .45, and has fewer commercial SD rounds available. (Do not use reloads in a glock). As far as more exotic loads like the .357 sig, me, I like to keep it simple. If I can't find ammo for it at wally world, I don't want to own it.Because a hand gun for sef defense is all about trade offs. One of those (to me at least) is the price and availability of ammo and mags. Just my .02.
FQ13
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I disagree with the 40 being a compromise between the 9 and 45. Because the older rounds have been around so long, there are a lot of weaker guns around that the can chamber them. That's why the 45 is kept down to loaded pressures under 21,000 psi, when the 40 is up to 35,000.
The energy of the .40 S&W exceeds all standard-pressure and +P 9x19mm Parabellum loadings and many standard-pressure .45 ACP rounds, generating between 450 and 600 foot-pounds (550 J and 800 J) of energy, depending on bullet weight, with mid to high 500 foot-pounds force (680 N·m) typical.
However, I'm not a firm believer in the "one-shot stop". All of the 3 main handgun duty calibers, and many others, poke holes about the size of a finger. Your goal in a defensive encounter is going to be to put holes into an attacker, repeatedly, until the threat is over. All of these calibers are going to act similarly in the majority of incidents and their effectiveness pales in comparison to most long guns.
Get what you like, what you can afford and what you can afford to get good with.
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Go with the glock 19!!! Look, any glock will do what is supposed to.
1 Shoot 4" at 15-20 yds
2 Go bang EVERY time you pull the trigger no matter what you load it with
Yes I've drunk the Kool-aid, but it doesnt make it less true.The glock is a weapon. Not a target pistol, not a hunting firearm, not a work of art, a weapon. Nothng more, nothing less. No BS, no half-cock or safties or anything else. Just point and click.
That leaves you with the choice of .40 vs 9 mm. Frankly they are both good rounds, and a zillion police and sheriffs departments agree. I would just say that the .40, a compromise between the the 9mm and .45, is not that much better than the 9. It has fewer choices of mags than will fit a 19, and is a lot more expensive and harder to find than either 9mm or .45, and has fewer commercial SD rounds available. (Do not use reloads in a glock). As far as more exotic loads like the .357 sig, me, I like to keep it simple. If I can't find ammo for it at wally world, I don't want to own it.Because a hand gun for sef defense is all about trade offs. One of those (to me at least) is the price and availability of ammo and mags. Just my .02.
FQ13
Interesting, so a glock will shoot anything.
But dont use reloads.
Just pointing it out..
While I will agree a glock is the most simple pistol (just counting the number of parts) I know of. One must feel comfortable with the gun and then use it to obtain proficiency. Shot placement is the KEY!!
9mm is more available than 40 due to the age of the round, its cheaper, but as the host on American gunner said, "its all fine until you shoot someone with it!" Now he was comparing 9 to 45 I will add. But published data cant be refuted. 40 is a more powerful round.
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Interesting, so a glock will shoot anything.
But dont use reloads.
Just pointing it out..
Not all that interesting. Glocks are slightley over bored in the interest of reliability, albeit at the expense of accuracy, much like the AK. Hence brass fired from one can be a problem. I'm not a reloader so I can't tell you why that is, just that enough folks, and Glock, who kow what they're talking about say not to use reloads from the gun. So I don't.
FQ13
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I have had my M19 for 18 years and have shot more than 20000 rounds of reloads through it including lead. No Problems at all. After shooting lead, I run a magazine of jacketed bullets to take the lead out before cleaning. I know other shooters that shoot reloads exclusively with no problems also.Take care of them and they will last forever.
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I have had my M19 for 18 years and have shot more than 20000 rounds of reloads through it including lead. No Problems at all. After shooting lead, I run a magazine of jacketed bullets to take the lead out before cleaning. I know other shooters that shoot reloads exclusively with no problems also.Take care of them and they will last forever.
Good info on cleaning the bore after shooting lead. I just always took the warning labels seriously in terms of not shooting reloads. Why borrow trouble for what is otherwise the most reliabiable pistol I've owned? It seems that I could have given it a shot. I agree that you cannot say enough good about the absolute reliabilty of these handguns.
FQ13
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Good info on cleaning the bore after shooting lead. I just always took the warning labels seriously in terms of not shooting reloads.
Actually it's NOT good info. You might get away with it in your semiauto, or you might not. Local PD bulged more than one SIG barrel doing this.
This practice can lead to bulged barrels as the lead gets swaged by the jacketed bullet and has nowhere to go. You might get away with it, especially in a revolver because of the much thicker barrel steel, but don't fall for the old wives tale that you are actually removing the lead. At best it is getting smashed into every crevice/pore and now has a streak of copper over it.
DO NOT FOLLOW LEAD BULLETS WITH A JACKETED BULLETS IN SEMI AUTO PISTOLS!
The "don't use reloads" mantra is not just Glock but all firearms manufacturers.
Any firearm manual from any major maker will tell you to use factory ammo only. Blame the lawyers and their "it's not my fault" clients.
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The advice you are getting is mostly personal preference of the shooter. The best thing to do is go to a range that has the Glocks you think you want available for rental. Shoot them both and run enough rounds through them to get a feel for how they handle, fit and shoot. Maybe make a couple of rental visits. Keep in mind that using factory ammo in the .40 S&W will be snappier than the 9mm factory ammo.
As for reloads, you can reload and use them in a Glock. If you reload and shoot major power factor loads you will want to consider using an aftermarket barrel.
If you are a re-loader you can download the .40 S&W to a minor power factor and it will certainly shoot smother than a 9mm with factory ammo - IMHO.
As for lead bullets, never shoot lead though a stock Glock barrel. The rifling does not like lead. If you want to shoot lead get an aftermarket barrel.
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With so many Glocks in use world wide. Why would you think they would make a gun that would not shoot lead? Or better yet, Do you think many people are miss informed?
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With so many Glocks in use world wide. Why would you think they would make a gun that would not shoot lead? Or better yet, Do you think many people are miss informed?
Might not have lead bullets in Austria?....now I'm curious.
Don't know......design flaw?...........maybe........... (http://www.smileyx.com/smilies/fighting0092.gif)
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From my understanding, its not the leading that is the prob. its the practice of shooting a FMJ after shooting lead to remove the lead fowling that is.
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To the OP, if your "hell bent on getting a "G" gun, test drive them. They are a great pistol, regardless of caliber.
I love my M+P in .40 & my FN9mm. ;)
Anyway, go try them, sometimes the right pistol finds the owner.
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You guys can drink all the Kool Aid you want. Glocks are a good gun. They are not THE GUN! If they were, they would never fail. I've seen Glocks jam, stove pipe, bulg cases with factory ammo. fail to lock back on the last shot, blow the mag out the bottom of the gun, double and triple fire. I shoot competetion, I see problems with Glocks at about the same rate as just about every other gun that I see used. I am still searching for THE GUN.
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The issue is the polygonal rifling used by Glock (H&K and Kah, too).
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polygonal_rifling
Quoting from Wikipedia:
"One suggestion of what the "additional factor involved in Glock's warning" might be is that Glock barrels have a fairly sharp transition between the chamber and the rifling, and this area is prone to lead buildup if lead bullets are used. This buildup may result in failures to fully return to battery, allowing the gun to fire with the case not fully supported by the chamber, leading to a potentially dangerous case failure. However, since this sharp transition is found on most autopistols this speculation is of limited value. The sharp transition or "lip" at the front of the chamber is required to "headspace" the cartridge in most autopistols.
Another possible explanation is that there are different "species" of polygonal rifle and perhaps Glock's peculiar style of polygonal rifling may be more prone to leading than the particular styles employed in the H&K and Kahr barrels.
Leading is the buildup of lead in the bore that happens in nearly all firearms firing high velocity lead bullets. This lead buildup must be cleaned out regularly, or the barrel will gradually become constricted resulting in higher than normal discharge pressures. In the extreme case, increased discharge pressures can result in a catastrophic incident."
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So the last 2 or 3 rounds of your mag of lead should be FMJ.
That is what I do!
And I have 1500 rounds of lead 9mm to shoot!
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I've never been much of a fan of shooting crap out of a gun, lead or otherwise, as opposed to cleaning it out. A barrel obstruction is a barrel obstruction in my book. I know it's done every day without any consequence, but all the same I avoid it. Lead bullets have no place in Polygonal rifling, just as 60 weight motor oil has no place in the crankcase of a truck in Fairbanks in January.
With that said, I've been on a big Glock kick lately. I bought 2 last week, and 2 more yesterday. I figured it was time for me to "get into" shooting the 9MM cartridge, so the wife and I took the plunge with 2 new Glocks and a really nice Sig/Sauer P-226 that came with 4, 20 shot magazines. The Glocks are a Model 17 and a 19. The 19 really impressed me as a really nice carry package that falls in between the "Mini" Glock 26 and the 17. I refer to the Glock as the "AK-47 of pistols". They will run when most others fail. They don't cost an arm and a leg. And there are literally millions of them out there doing what they are supposed to do, protect peoples lives and property. Like the AK-47, the Glock does it's job without a lot of bells and whistles, and is so easy to shoot and operate, a child can master it quite easily.
The Sig on the other hand really impressed me from a high quality, and fit and finish standpoint. This is my first Sig/Sauer handgun, and rest assured it won't be my last. I've avoided Aluminum frame handguns for the longest time in favor of steel, but when the military went with the Aluminum framed Beretta, I took a long look, and reevaluated my thinking. While Aluminum doesn't offer the overall durability of steel, with todays modern coatings like Sig's Nitron finish, they are plenty durable. This gun has the kind of feel when you pick it up akin to a pair of fleece lined bedroom slippers. It just plain belongs in your hand! While it is more complicated to operate than a Glock, it isn't anything which cannot be mastered with some range time and practice.
I still have to get used to the size of the 9MM round as opposed to the .45 ACP, which I've been shooting for decades. With todays modern ammunition, that playing field has been much more leveled. The performance advantage between the 9MM and the .45 ACP has been brought closer together by todays well designed, dependable, expanding bullets. Now I just need to find a good supply of 9MM ammo. Every shop I visited yesterday while on a quest to purchase these handguns, was out of 9MM. Not a single round in the house, including Cabela's and a Sportsmans Warehouse. Hussein has certainly been busy striking fear into the hearts of shooters everywhere. Bill T.
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The issue is the polygonal rifling used by Glock (H&K and Kah, too).
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polygonal_rifling
Quoting from Wikipedia:
"One suggestion of what the "additional factor involved in Glock's warning…
Keep in mind that this is from Wikipedia and anyone can post there. It sound pretty good to me though.
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I had 9mm's in 2007. After the 2008 elections and everyone bought up everything there was, I found that the only ammo that was available, was .40 ammo. I purchased the Glock 27 and was very happy. It seemed there was always .40 cal ammo around. No 9mm or .45 was to be found. I stocked plenty and shot the 27 often. I got very used to the recoil (minimum) and it slowly became my edc. After the 2012 elections, (remember?), the same thing happened. I can get .40 at Walmart and Academy all day long but there is minimum 9mm available. (at least in the Houston area) I now own the 27 and the 23 for my ccw. I own a few 9's, 45's, .380's and others (revolvers of different calibers). I find no difference in the recoil of the 40 or the 9. Buy what you like and you will shoot it more. Recoil is all about perception anyway. Way to many experts out there. Everyone will recommend what they own. Chevy, Ford or Dodge. Same thing.
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in the 1911 vs. Glock debate... I shot over 300,000 rounds of .45 in a 1911 format for USPSA competition, but currently shoot a G34 in 9mm for the following reason....
(http://i825.photobucket.com/albums/zz180/LesSnyder/DSC00463_zpsa2a74774.jpg) (http://s825.photobucket.com/user/LesSnyder/media/DSC00463_zpsa2a74774.jpg.html)
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in the 1911 vs. Glock debate... I shot over 300,000 rounds of .45 in a 1911 format for USPSA competition, but currently shoot a G34 in 9mm for the following reason....
1. In 300,000 rounds, what other failures did you have beside this one?
2. If there were more than this one, why is this one the one?
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Kmitch.... I started in IPSC/USPSA around 1981 and there were very few "custom" pistols, so we did a lot of development.... off the top of my head and aging memory
couple of finger bushings
1 solid bushing
couple of plunger tubes loosened or came off
couple of slide stops broken
two cracked firing pin stops
BoMar sight pin breakages
one aftermarket stainless barrel cracked from chamber almost to muzzle
one cracked slide
one mainspring housing pin break
one extractor hook
one cracked dust cover
couple of links improperly fitted.... two properly fitted links....the pictured link happened at the 2007 Ft Benning 3 gun match on a properly fitted barrel.... at which point I switched to a different format and caliber... I shoot Limited minor for USPSA with the G34
the transition to the Glock (especially the trigger) took a bit of time after the excellent triggers I had on the 1911's....my Limited Master card was shot with a single stack.....my G34 is not nearly as accurate, but with increasing age, neither am I any longer... additionally I had been carrying a G23 in an off body bag for a carry pistol, and having two platforms is not the smartest thing to do
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Gotcha.
It took me a little bit to get used to G triggers. And now that I haven't been shooting in a while, I know it's going to take a couple of mags to get back into the groove I want to be in.
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It's probably going to depend on whether you are going to re- load or not. Most of your 9mm cases are probably not going to be bulged at the base because 9mm runs at a lower pressure. The .40 S&W however, is known for having enough pressure in Glock pistols to make a bulge in the case at the heel, because of a lack of full case support right where the feed ramp meets the chamber. Generally it's not a good idea to try to reload 40 S&W . I only shoot new ammo in my 23 . Save reloading your 40 cal. for pistols with match grade chambers such a a 1911 .
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BArsow makes a barrel that fully supports the 40, but they cost 250, they great but at almost 50 % of the guns cost they are not cheap.
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It's probably going to depend on whether you are going to re- load or not. Most of your 9mm cases are probably not going to be bulged at the base because 9mm runs at a lower pressure. The .40 S&W however, is known for having enough pressure in Glock pistols to make a bulge in the case at the heel, because of a lack of full case support right where the feed ramp meets the chamber. Generally it's not a good idea to try to reload 40 S&W . I only shoot new ammo in my 23 . Save reloading your 40 cal. for pistols with match grade chambers such a a 1911 .
9mm does not run at a lower pressure than 40. They are the same according to SAAMI.
9mm+p runs hotter than 40.
9mm-35,000, 40-35,000, 9mm+p-38,500
http://www.saami.org/specifications_and_information/publications/download/205.pdf
(MAP column, pages 15, 16)
The Glock bulged or "guppied" cases have been addressed and it is no longer an issue.
In the research I've done, both searching the net and my own guns, gen 3s DO NOT BULGE CASES. After measuring a **bunch** of cases, I gave up on trying to find one and my gen3 G27, G23 aren't spring chickens by any means.
In fact, I bought the G19 to shoot +p ammo because I didn't want to beat up my Al frame Sigs anymore. It doesn't bulge cases either.....
Thousands of people reload for their glocks daily w/o any problems whatsoever.
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Well, I do own a gen 3 model 35, and it did bulge the cases, to the point that they could not be resized without building up a ridge of brass at the case head.
The solution was to replace the original glock barrel with a KKM match barrel.
Problem solved, and the group sizes shrunk dramatically at 25 yards.
Anyone want a model 35 glock barrel with about 100 rounds thru it?
By the way, replace the glock trigger with an Edge trigger if you shoot match.
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Well, I do own a gen 3 model 35, and it did bulge the cases, to the point that they could not be resized without building up a ridge of brass at the case head.
Did your gen 3 do this?
This is what I'm talking about that seems to have been a nonfactor for years.
How many times did the 'ridge' reloads work?
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Yes, that is exactly what the brass did. I was unable to reuse the damaged brass.
So that was the reason for buying the KKM barrel.
I believe Redding has come up with a push through die to try to bring the brass back into
the proper case size, but I have been a handloader for over 50 years, and I will NOT use
damaged brass, or picked up off the range brass. If I don't know the history of the brass,
and unless it was fired in my weapons, it stays on the ground. What I do is mark the case heads
of my reloads with a colored marker. Then when I pick it up, I know its mine.
For the .40, I am up over 10 reloads. I use 6.5 grains of Herco, and 165 grain jacked bullets.
This load chronos at 1046 fps. This is an old documented load created by Ken Waters when the .40 SW
first came out. It works great, my Model 35 pistol functions great, and if I put a cardboard box at my feet, the fired brass lands in the box. So just a little scattered brass.
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Odd. I wonder if your 35 had one of the older barrels (obviously I don't know it's age) since they don't sell as many of those as the other 40cal varieties? My 23 was new in '00 and has never bulged a case.
My 27 is older than that.
I wouldn't use the guppied brass either. And I totally agree on range pickups, I won't touch 'em.
Re: the Edge trigger, how much travel does it have compared to the approx. 1/2" of the glock trigger?
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FWIW, target loads were never really the issue it was the higher power stuff. A lot of people use to clean up after a leo those cases were only good for scrap. Damn shame too as they were often nickle plated, mainly speer gold dot. now i use to love cleaning the chp range as it was all 10 mm, then they stoped let us do that :(
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The first 3 letters on my model 35 serial # are HPE.
I bought it new about 6 years ago. I will look up the year of mfg to be sure.
I have a 20# recoil spring in it, will a recoil buffer.
With the edge trigger, the pull length is 3/16", reset is 1/8".
Trigger pull weight is 3# 1.6 oz, measured with a Lyman trigger pull gauge.
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OK My Glock Mod 35 was Mfg in 2005. HPE***
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I believe Redding has come up with a push through die to try to bring the brass back into
the proper case size,
The Redding G-Rx is only available in .40 S&W. 9mm being a tapered case can't use a push through. You could however make a die and a push rod that fully sized a 9mm, but then you'd have to have a push rod to push it back down out of the die.
http://www.redding-reloading.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=3%3Ag-rx-push-thru-base-sizing-die (http://www.redding-reloading.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=3%3Ag-rx-push-thru-base-sizing-die)
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a barrel is easier, cheaper in the long run and will save you a but load of time. :D
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The Redding G-Rx is only available in .40 S&W.
I've read posts elsewhere that people have used these with good results and feel comfortable doing it. I wouldn't though.
If a piece of brass is so deformed that it needs a special die, it's too far gone for me to load.
What I find more curious is why a subcompact glock barrel from '99 and a compact from '00 don't bulge brass but a target barrel from '05 does.
The serial # isn't an ironclad guarantee to indicate when the barrel was made, just when it was stamped and mated to the frame but I can't imagine that glock would have 7 years worth of G35 barrels stored.
('98-'05)
on edit: Thanks Robert for the heads up!
I was told bulging 40s were a thing of the past in "later release" 3rd gens.
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I've read posts elsewhere that people have used these with good results and feel comfortable doing it. I wouldn't though.
If a piece of brass is so deformed that it needs a special die, it's too far gone for me to load.
It's not that the brass is "too far gone". It is the fact that conventional resizing dies cannot completely size the brass down to the rim. The die itself has to have a small radius on the bottom to allow the case to enter it. The shell holder that accepts the case obstructs the lower part of the case from entering the die as well. Add all this up and it becomes nearly impossible to properly resize the case it's full length, down to the rim of the case itself.
With a "push through" type of resizing die this is not an issue because the entire case passes through the die, resizing 100% of it for it's total length. Even the rim will size down if it has been expanded. This process puts the brass under no more strain than a standard sizing die does. It just does a more complete job. With a tapered case like a 9 MM, this type of die cannot be employed. To completely resize it a roller type of resizing die has to be used. These are quite expensive and complicated. So much so the average reloader cannot afford one that would pay off. Commercial reloaders that reload hundreds of thousands of rounds a year can use them, and have them be cost effective.
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It's not that the brass is "too far gone". It is the fact that conventional resizing dies cannot completely size the brass down to the rim.
Farmer Frank James resized some bulged brass then shot it in his high power, the brass *re-bulged*.
This stuff is getting stressed so hard on the web of the case that is has grown to waaay out of spec.
If a piece of brass looks like this, it is too far gone.
The fact you need a special die should tell you something.
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Bulging brass from semi auto pistols is nothing new. Especially in Glocks. Throated pistol barrels all bulge brass right at the base, which is very difficult to resize. Especially in full power loads. This brass cannot be brought back into spec by a regular sizing die, because it can't reach the all the way down to the rim. A push through die can and does. It is the only way this brass can be properly resized.
Many times when these push through dies are not used, the result is brass that will not chamber, and the gun will hang up as a result. The push through die makes reloads with this brass fully dependable. That is the goal every reloader should be striving to achieve, regardless of what he is reloading. Using a push through die when resizing full power loads in .40 S&W, is like using a primer pocket swaging tool to remove the crimp in military brass. It's another step that needs to be taken to make reloads with this type of brass fully dependable. The only other option is to throw it away. That's like throwing away money.
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As this thread is continuing, my original solution to the problem I think is the best.
Replace the barrel! My replacement is a KKM, but there are other mfgs with quality barrels
available.
It can be a little expensive, depending on options, but the result was fantastic.
Great groups!!!.
No brass issues!!!
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If the gun is a range toy, then I would simply change the barrel. It's the easiest way to increase the longevity of your brass. If the gun is for carry, leave it stock. Throated barrels, like those found on Glocks are there for a reason. They feed with 100% reliability, regardless of the type of ammunition used.
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If the gun is for carry, leave it stock. Throated barrels, like those found on Glocks are there for a reason. They feed with 100% reliability
None of my Glocks, and none I've shot that others own in any caliber bulge, spindle or mutilate brass. None have ever jammed.
The idea that a glock barrel should be "throated" and bulge brass to be reliable is crazy.
My factory barrels don't do this.
I rarely leave a gun stock, even if it's a carry gun. I make changes that help me shoot more accurately, faster and test for 100% function with any ammo I can find.
The only guns I have left stock are a couple of rimfires and 1 Sig. The rest have all been worked on and I have & would carry any of them.
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None of my Glocks, and none I've shot that others own in any caliber bulge, spindle or mutilate brass. None have ever jammed.
Nor have mine with most ammo. None have ever jammed, period. But I've fired +P and +P+ ammo in both my .45 ACP and 9 MM Glock's, and they both showed slight bulging at the rear of the case. Most all Major Power Factor 9 MM loads will show it. Some more than others. It stands to reason if you can see past the rim of a chambered round, it is going to expand because of no support in that area. The only way around it is to shoot revolvers.
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My G-22 which I owned for 17 years never had a brass problem and ate everything.
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i have seen more then my fair share of glock failures, limp wristing is a very big prob with glocks, so is hanging heavy stuff on the rail and bluged reloads. Its like every thing else.
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While I have fired Glocks, I haven't drunk the kool-aid. I have too much hand between my thumb and booger hook, and since I'm not a big fan of slide-bite, I'm also not a big fan of Glock.
That being said, I would have to say they are, in effect, the AK-47 of handguns. They're dependable, accurate enough to get the job done, and almost completely idiot proof. That's why so many LE agencies issue them........almost no training is required.