Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II and other DIY coatings

[billt]

Once you mix in the hardener into the Dura Coat, about how long do you have to work with it?

[PegLeg45]

This is very true. If I Duracoat a piece that is all metal as soon as it's dry enough to handle I move it to the oven (I have an old toaster oven just for this type of stuff) 200 or so degrees for at least 2 hours and it's harder than just letting it cure naturally for 2 weeks. AS far as Cerakote I've had a professionally applied job on a rifle I traded for. I didn't keep it very long but it seemed to be as good as a Duracoat finish. I do believe it's harder to do though. The best way to get a good Duracoat job (or any finish I guess) is to make sure your metal is properly prepared. If I have something in nice shape I may just use the duracoat prep products and go but if the metal is rough or really any time I have the time to do it and a material that will hold up I like to prep in the blast cabinet and strip it down to bare metal. I also use the primer/basecoat if I strip it down in the cabinet. I did a knife about 3 years ago for a friend who's in Afganistan now  (RAT4 - D2 steel that we took off the G10 grips and masked the edge then sprayed the whole thing with Duracoat Magpul FDE and put back together. He is on his 2nd deployment with it now and said it is finally showing a little wear. When he gets back home (April by the looks of things) we're going to strip it down and refinish it. I also sprayed the 6 M9 mags I sent him, inside and out with Duracoat SL. He said they're holding up great and he's not getting any spring binding issues like he use to. It's obviously not a permanent finish like something that makes an ionic bond with the metal but it's hard to beat for a DIY job that will last through some pretty decent abuse.

That's the best advice, IMHO, regardless of what coating is used.
It's just like painting a car, boat, house, etc.... Surface prep and the pre-paint/coating work is actually more critical than the paint itself.

[Solus]

While I have no personal experience with any coatings, I was interested in a few years ago and did some research.  I never did follow through on getting done/doing it myself, but, from what I found them, Cerakote would have been my choice.

If you have not considered it, you should. You can start your search  here...http://www.larsontactical.com/id23.html

If you want to consider something that is not DIY, think about Armoloy - http://www.armoloyofohio.com/

ARMOLOY technology has a refined process where its 99% chromium coating permeates the microscopic surface of metal surfaces creating 100% bonding characteristics that will not allow chipping, flaking or seperation from the basis metal. Consumer tests conclusively prove that surfaces treated with Armoloy deposits of .0001/.0002" per side are harder and have superior anti-friction, anti-corrosion and increased lubricity properties.

[CJS3]

Try engine block paint.
Worried about high temps? It's engine block paint.
Worried about "corrosive" cleaning chemicals? It's engine block paint.
Worried about hard use? It's engine block paint.
It comes in a variety of colors and finishes (flat, semi, and gloss), and at $4 to $6 a can at your local auto parts store, it's easy enough to get today and paint today.

[langloisandy]

I run duracoat in my shop for sling hardware. Good stuff but it will chip/scratch even with the finest surface prep. Finishes will wear out, all of them. Some, like plating, take longer. Anything spray-on is going to wear. To stop wear, stop using/carrying the gun!

Now...here is the problem with some of the finishes. If it's an ultra hard two part finish, it will chip. If it's a soft one part/bake on, it will scratch (or when baked to super hard, become brittle and chip).  There really is no happy medium when it comes to something that is applied atop metals. 

Anyone who has seen my duty guns can attest to how finishes wear out and just how fast they can wear.  I use krylon on my AR because I can touch it up as needed and realistically I just don't care how it looks, just how it functions.

Bakes on that I like: Duracoat works nicely, the Brownells labeled brand is nice too. (Wheeler gun coat was unsat on one of my guns FYI)

2 parts that I use and like:  Duracoat ONLY.

Barring this, I like plating and other metal treatments that actually are part of the metal, not something atop it...

My two cents, 0.00000603003004050 after taxes

Andy

[Sponsor]

[bafsu92]

Once you mix in the hardener into the Dura Coat, about how long do you have to work with it?

I've used it for a couple days, just using product up on small parts though. I've never tried any longer but had no issues pushing 48 hours.