Author Topic: Home Defense DOG conditioning...  (Read 10297 times)

devzal

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Re: Home Defense DOG conditioning...
« Reply #10 on: February 07, 2009, 11:57:35 AM »
I am no expert, but I have found that once you get accustomed to your dogs behaviors you can more easily train them. Most dogs don't instantly bark, they usually perk up and look towards the sound or object. When I was training my dog I would say "ok" when I saw this and go with him see the problem. After some time he would not bark if I said this or bark a lot if I said nothing. It also helps to talk calmly and relaxed while training, with my dog if I use a louder tone than normal he suspects a problem and becomes more alert. Training is a lot of conditioning their natural behaviors for your benefit and with a considerable amount of time and patience training your dog can be very rewarding. My dog took some time to train he was picked up in a police raid and spent a good amount of time in the pound, it took 3 months to get him into a car without a struggle.

tombogan03884

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Re: Home Defense DOG conditioning...
« Reply #11 on: February 07, 2009, 12:03:42 PM »
Looks like he had no problem with the "Mugshot"  ;D

Timothy

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Re: Home Defense DOG conditioning...
« Reply #12 on: February 07, 2009, 03:44:30 PM »
I'd be satisfied if I could just teach my dog not to be afraid of the toaster.  >:(

Toasters are scary thinks Frank!   I hear you can put an eye out with one!!!! 8)

callithump

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Re: Home Defense DOG conditioning...
« Reply #13 on: February 09, 2009, 12:37:12 AM »
If I was looking for a dog to fill the place you need I'd look at several things and they pertain to obedience training and protection. I'd like to see a dog with drive for a ball or toy and I would check his reactions to several different situations I created.
The point of drive (stimulation and reward) for obedience points to an ability be motivated for work. For protection you'd look at the animal's responses to different stimulation... response to noise in the street, in the driveway, opening car doors and knocking on the front door. Generally a dog will show interest to the vehicle that rolls up to your house as well as a knock on the door and that usually means barking. What does the dog look like when this happens? Let me tell you what perfect looks like. The dog will stand upright or tilt forward. He will stand straight up and have long strides, relaxed muscles, an erect neck, a head held high and give direct eye contact. The ears will point forward and he;ll have a high tail set. The barking will not be rhythmic (repetitive). A dog that looks like the one described will show confident barking and he will not back up or lean backwards, the ears won't go back, the head will not go down and he will not avert the eyes.
The dog whose hairs come up is showing insecurity and fear. If you pet (reward) the dog for it you typically reinforce that behavior. I'd ignore it and expect obedience. When my little female shep hears noise she arks and I take her to the front door and have her sit. She must sit until I release her (free- OK etc). I make her deal with whatever she sees on her own but she must look to me for direction.
So, you need to see clearly who and what your dog is and accept it. Then you need to implement a plan for what you want him to do - how you want him to behave. He's dying to find out! Work around his limitations and get the most that you can from him.
Frankly, I want an obedient early warnng system. If the shtf I want a dog that will do what I tell him even if that means lie down - don't move - be quiet, I'll deal with it. If you want a dog that will take out the person who knocks your door down regardless you will need to look for a dog with good nerves that will operate from defense not prey. Finding that out is the next level.
Good luck over there. :)





Frisco

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Re: Home Defense DOG conditioning...
« Reply #14 on: February 12, 2009, 11:41:13 AM »
My family dog is an 85lb female boxer.  She is EXTREMELY protective of my daughter and all her little friends.  It is a function of her breeding, as boxers were bred as herding, and protection animals for livestock.  They are tough and hardy, built to handle wolves and as such, do well on softer flesh...like humans who threaten their kids.  Female boxers are especially protective of children.  My 5 year old daughter has a permanent stubby tailed fawn colored shadow.

When there is a noise outside, the dog alerts, and if someone steps onto our porch, she goes into what I call LOUD TERMINATOR LANDSHARK mode.  When I get up, she quiets down to a low, steady growl as I answer the door.  She is very sweet, but with the flat, black face, she looks menacing and hazardous.  Boxers have none of the so-called "dangerous dog" reputation that you will get with a rottie, sheperd, chow, dobe, etc...

As a note, female boxers have a more dominant personality than male boxers.  My female had to be taught from day one, that I was the alpha in the house, followed by my wife and my daughter.  This isn't hard to do, if you are willing to take the time and form the habits needed to make it stick.

NEVER punish your dog for barking at a door knock, or doorbell.  Get up, and go to the door, and then praise the dog for doing a good job.  Then YOU, as the alpha dispatch the "threat".  The lower pack member's job is to alert you, that's what they get paid for. 

NEVER let your dog lead YOU through a doorway.  You claim it as YOUR doorway, everything in your house is YOURS.  The alpha ALWAYS leads and chooses the direction of travel. 

NEVER let your dog win a tug-of-war with their chew toy.  When the game is over YOU keep the toy and put it away.  The alpha chooses playtime. 

When you feed, make sure you put the food down AFTER the family has eaten.  The alpha chooses when the rest of the pack eats. 

NEVER walk around your dog.  Make the dog move.  The alpha doesn't move aside/around ANY lower ranking pack member. 

NEVER pet or praise the dog when it is in an excited state.  Make it calm down, and you choose when it will get affection or praise. 

NEVER go TO the dog to give affection, call it to you and then give it affection.  When you call the dog for praise, affection, or feeding, use it's name.  NEVER use it's name when you are calling it for corrective action.

You don't need to train a dog for protection, their natural instincts will generally take over when it is time to do it's part in protecting the pack.  I have trained my boxer to go into her crazy barking hackle up terminator mode on verbal command from me.  It is one heck of a good deterrent, or distraction of I have to draw my weapon.

God bless, and sincere thanks to all our fine people in uniform.  You pay for our freedom, and for that we owe you all we can give you.  Thank you.

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Re: Home Defense DOG conditioning...
« Reply #15 on: Today at 09:00:47 PM »

WaltGraham

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Re: Home Defense DOG conditioning...
« Reply #15 on: February 12, 2009, 12:47:20 PM »


NEVER punish your dog for barking at a door knock, or doorbell.  Get up, and go to the door, and then praise the dog for doing a good job.  Then YOU, as the alpha dispatch the "threat".  The lower pack member's job is to alert you, that's what they get paid for. 

NEVER let your dog lead YOU through a doorway.  You claim it as YOUR doorway, everything in your house is YOURS.  The alpha ALWAYS leads and chooses the direction of travel. 

NEVER let your dog win a tug-of-war with their chew toy.  When the game is over YOU keep the toy and put it away.  The alpha chooses playtime. 

When you feed, make sure you put the food down AFTER the family has eaten.  The alpha chooses when the rest of the pack eats. 

NEVER walk around your dog.  Make the dog move.  The alpha doesn't move aside/around ANY lower ranking pack member. 

NEVER pet or praise the dog when it is in an excited state.  Make it calm down, and you choose when it will get affection or praise. 

NEVER go TO the dog to give affection, call it to you and then give it affection.  When you call the dog for praise, affection, or feeding, use it's name.  NEVER use it's name when you are calling it for corrective action.

You don't need to train a dog for protection, their natural instincts will generally take over when it is time to do it's part in protecting the pack.  I have trained my boxer to go into her crazy barking hackle up terminator mode on verbal command from me.  It is one heck of a good deterrent, or distraction of I have to draw my weapon.



That's good info, I was aware of most of it, but the refresher was helpful. I've got a husky-aussie mix that works well in the HD role, but he's a bit headstrong and needs a bit of guidance. The biggest challenge I have now is getting him to not jump on company. He considers it play, but at 95 lbs it can be a bit intimidating for the timid. He grabbed my 8 yr. old granddaughter by her camera bag and took off down the yard with her. I'm trying to give him a bit more exercise that doesn't involve child dragging.

 

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