Author Topic: 38S&W to 38Special conversion quandry  (Read 5483 times)

alfsauve

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38S&W to 38Special conversion quandry
« on: March 27, 2009, 10:18:57 PM »
Having researched the S&W Victory revolver this past week, I am a little confused on the conversion.  Maybe some of you know.

First, the 38S&W is a larger diameter case and a larger bullet than the .38spl, but it is considerably shorter.

Now, it appears S&W made some of the Victory models using the .38spl cylinder, generally about 1.6" long, but they made the chambers big enough to accept the .38S&W (or British .38/200).    Which of course will still accept a .38spl round, but the cases will split due to the extra room.  And of course the .38spl is spec'd for higher pressures.

So here's my confusion.   People post that when converting from .38S&W to .38Special chambers were "reamed".   Since the chambers are already too big, what are they reaming?  Why are the reaming it?



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ellis4538

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Re: 38S&W to 38Special conversion quandry
« Reply #1 on: March 28, 2009, 06:15:53 AM »
I believe you answered your own question...the reaming is required to accept the extra length of the .38 spl.

JMHO

Richard
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CJS3

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Re: 38S&W to 38Special conversion quandry
« Reply #2 on: March 28, 2009, 08:42:27 AM »
I wouldn't "convert" the cylinder, I'd buy a 38 spl cylinder and replace the 38 S&W cylinder. The Victory frame is the same for 38Spl and 38 S&W. You should be able to refinish the new cylinder to approximate the finish on the revolver frame.
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alfsauve

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Re: 38S&W to 38Special conversion quandry
« Reply #3 on: March 28, 2009, 09:03:59 AM »
I wouldn't "convert" the cylinder, I'd buy a 38 spl cylinder and replace the 38 S&W cylinder. The Victory frame is the same for 38Spl and 38 S&W. You should be able to refinish the new cylinder to approximate the finish on the revolver frame.

Understood, but I'm not trying to do a conversion.  I'm just trying to understand what other people are talking about when they say they "reamed out" a 38SW chamber for 38spl.    again 38SW is larger than 38spl, so what are they reaming out?  If anything Id want to put a sleeve in the chamber to make it smaller.

UNLESS.  The originally the chamber was only reamed .78" into the cylinder (that being the case length for 38SW) and at that point there is (was) a step down to nominal bullet size (.36").   So they must ream it out to 1.2" deep for the 38spl.  That must be it.   Makes sense because otherwise (safety wise) the 38spl would fit ALL the way in the chamber.    I'm checking on other boards as well. 

Just point of reference, the Victory I have appears to be an original 38spl since the rear chamber diameter is .38" which is a tad small for 38S&W.

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tombogan03884

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Re: 38S&W to 38Special conversion quandry
« Reply #4 on: March 28, 2009, 12:54:29 PM »
One of those links I posted in the other thread mentioned that reamed .38 S&W cylinders were notorious for split cases in .38 Spl.

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Re: 38S&W to 38Special conversion quandry
« Reply #5 on: Today at 07:40:07 AM »

alfsauve

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Re: 38S&W to 38Special conversion quandry
« Reply #5 on: March 28, 2009, 01:01:41 PM »
I believe you answered your own question...the reaming is required to accept the extra length of the .38 spl.
Richard

GOT IT NOW!   Okay.  From ~.78" to ~1.6"  Sorry, just took a while.   If I had an unmodified one it would have helped.
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TAB

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Re: 38S&W to 38Special conversion quandry
« Reply #6 on: March 28, 2009, 02:58:25 PM »
also remember the 38 S&W is rated for alot less presure...
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norwegianwiking

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Re: 38S&W to 38Special conversion quandry
« Reply #7 on: April 03, 2009, 02:14:00 PM »
The most interesting conversion i've seen was on a Canadian site, British proofed and property marked with Parker Hale markings from when they converted it. Probably spent some time with a British shooter before '97

My Victory is original, and i can't really see the point of changing it. To damned much hassel to get a .38 S&W to .38 spl., and it probably won't shoot good at all no matter what you do to it. If you deepen the chambers you'll have split cases problems, if you swap out the cylinder you'll still need cast .360-.361" bullets.

Simplest way to run a .38 S&W is with .357-.358 hollow based wadcutters, functions just like a miniƩ-bullet and gives decent accuracy. And for plinking or even target shooting i think .38 S&W is better than .38 spl. target loads, less excess case volume etc.


 

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