Accidentally bought Small Pistol (Magnum) primers....

[fullautovalmet76]

Now what?
I really don't want to try to exchange or return them either.

How should I use them for regular loads? I believe I should start my load lower than what I normally would do, but how much lower? Any guidance here would be welcome.



Thanks!
FullAuto

[CJS3]

I did the same thing a few years back with rifle primers. The retailer wouldn't exchange them (store policy), but told me they would be ok if I used 10% less powder on each load. That worked, so I'd guess that would be a good rule of thumb for your situation.

First I'd ask the retailer for an exchange anyway.

[Pecos Bill]

If you're loading something like 9mm or 40 S&W take the primers back and exchange them. If you're loading 38 Spl or 357 Mag and are not near max I wouldn't worry too much about it. So what are you loading? Having that info will be a big help.

[fullautovalmet76]

If you're loading something like 9mm or 40 S&W take the primers back and exchange them. If you're loading 38 Spl or 357 Mag and are not near max I wouldn't worry too much about it. So what are you loading? Having that info will be a big help.

I'm loading 38 spl and 9mm. I wondered about the 9mm whether it would be just too hot for it. Thanks!

[Solus]

I'm loading 38 spl and 9mm. I wondered about the 9mm whether it would be just too hot for it. Thanks!

Only thing to do is buy a new gun that uses ammo that needs them.  I know it's tough, but it is the only safe alternative.

[Sponsor]

[fullautovalmet76]

Only thing to do is buy a new gun that uses ammo that needs them.  I know it's tough, but it is the only safe alternative.

I think you're right too, but my checking account doesn't agree..... 

[SpottHogg]

Just so you know the difference between standard primers and magnum primers is; The cup on a magnum is either thicker or of a stronger/harder brass compound (this is to resist peirced/ruptured primers with the higher pressures found in magnum loads) and magnums have a slightly larger amount of priming compound or a hotter priming compound (to more efficiently ignite the slower powders commonly found in magnum loads).
With that being said the actual effect on your load performance, groupings and safety between the two is dependent on alot of factors that can get confusing and complicated. So as a rule of thumb if your load is normally with a standard primer and you switch to a magnum:
If it is at or close to max charge reduce the load 10% to caution on the side of safety.
If it is a light or medium range load than there is no safety concern. Try it and you might find there is no difference in groups or point of impact.
 A definent performance problem with going to a magnum primer from a standard one is in a "tuned" revolver. If you have a lightened mainspring (or competition spring kit). The hammer energy will be to little to overcome the harder/thicker cup on the magnum primer thus a whole lot of failure to fires! Hope this helps.
 

[tombogan03884]

Don't know if it helped him, but it was interesting 

[SpottHogg]

I am curious to ask what brand of primers did you mistakenly buy???
I bought some small pistol primers thinking they were standard but were also magnums. They were remington 5 1/2. I assumed they were standard primers because they did not have "magnum" in the descriptive print (like every other primer manufacturer does). I am not fluent in remingtons number designation code. After finding my 686 would set them off I called them to find out why. They then explained the number 5 1/2 means "magnum". I then asked why they dont just print "magnum" on there pistol primer packaging like they do with there rifle primers. There answer was it's been a concern and they are considering doing it. In there next breathe they tell me I should check my reloading manuals to know which brand of primer to use in that particular load if they list a remington use that number listed.  I told her I know when I need a standard primer vs. a mag in a load, I should'nt have to consult in a manual to decipher which one of your primers is which, do as everone else and print "MAGNUM" on the packaging!!! So the lady went on to say I should always check the manual because; if it only lists a winchester primer the load wont work if I use a federal, yeah ok. So I asked her what hapens if they list diferent primer brands in the same loads in two different manuals? The reply was; you should then call the powder company to find out which one is safer. It is true......you can't fix stupid and it is everywhere. Remington has always had an un-orthodox way of customer service and reloading product labeling. They will never try to make you happy but rather somehow explain how it's your fault, (even if it does'nt make sense). Ill never buy anything that has remingtons name on it ever again. I have never had any luck with remington products and the only reason I bought these primers was the lack of any federal or winchester primers available.   

[fullautovalmet76]

Just so you know the difference between standard primers and magnum primers is; The cup on a magnum is either thicker or of a stronger/harder brass compound (this is to resist peirced/ruptured primers with the higher pressures found in magnum loads) and magnums have a slightly larger amount of priming compound or a hotter priming compound (to more efficiently ignite the slower powders commonly found in magnum loads).
With that being said the actual effect on your load performance, groupings and safety between the two is dependent on alot of factors that can get confusing and complicated. So as a rule of thumb if your load is normally with a standard primer and you switch to a magnum:
If it is at or close to max charge reduce the load 10% to caution on the side of safety.
If it is a light or medium range load than there is no safety concern. Try it and you might find there is no difference in groups or point of impact.
 A definent performance problem with going to a magnum primer from a standard one is in a "tuned" revolver. If you have a lightened mainspring (or competition spring kit). The hammer energy will be to little to overcome the harder/thicker cup on the magnum primer thus a whole lot of failure to fires! Hope this helps.
 

Thanks for the info, Spott. As for your question about the manufacturer, it was CCI and "Magnum" was clearly on the box; I can't read...