REAL NEW GUY

[73Driver]

I have been reading and posting a few comments on line.  While some questions that I had have been answered, there are still several nagging questions that I have not found answers to.  I have had a weapon (now weapons) for just over two months now, but cannot find answers to the following questions:

1)   At what point (rounds fired through the weapon) does a new weapon become broken in?  One of my weapons still does not get the round correctly in the breach 100% of the time.  Is it something I am doing or do I need more breakin rounds?

2)   All 3 are SAs, where would one put the gun grease?  Just on the slide, around the barrel, or are there other places that the novice should not place grease?

3)  I have read where "experts" are running 1000+ rounds through their guns before cleaning.  Is that at one trip to the range or is that a general number through the gun before cleaning?

I want to thank the forum in advance for being patient with me and answering REALLY basic questions.

EAA, Tanfoglio Witness Match 40SW - Target
STI LS40 - CCW
H&K USP40 LEM

[IDPAshooter]

Hey 73 Driver,
  I have been using slide glide on my handguns for quite some time and truly love the stuff.  You can get it from Brian Enos' site http://www.brianenos.com/pages/slide-glide.html 

...and I quote from the site "apply liberal amounts of Slide-Glide to both sides of every contact area in the top end. This includes the top and bottom locking lugs on the barrel, the frame and slide rails, the bushing or cone area, and especially the upper locking lugs on the inside of the slide. Don't forget the recoil spring, guide rod, and the inside of the reverse plug. Basically, apply where anything touches anything else - except the firing pin and stop area. Assemble the pistol, cycle, and wipe off excess."  

In reference to breaking in I have found that each gun is a bit different my Keltec P3At really did not need a breaking in period, it just worked.  On the other hand I had a Springfield MicroCompact in .45acp, an absolutely beautiful gun, BUT it was never reliable, even after several trips back to Springfield, and was never really broken in.   I ended up selling it to someone who wanted it for his collection.  (with the promise that he would never carry it as I did not trust the gun)  and my Kimber 1911 took about 5-6 boxes of .45acp to get the bugs worked out so about 250-300 rounds.  I have also found that a bit of polishing with some FLITZ and a dremel with a cotton tip can do wonders to speed up the break in process and get those little nicks smoothed out on the feed ramp and the slide to frame contact points. 

Hope this helps,
-Jose
http://idpashooter.blogspot.com

[Rastus]

Both of my Kimber 1911's (.45 & 10MM) slicked up somewhere around 150 to 200 rounds.  First thing I did...clean the gun then spray it with some Remigton D R Y Teflon and rub it in really well before the solvent dissipated.  Then I did it again and then, after the solvent dried, I put a light coat of Remoil on the moving parts.  Then....I shot a clip, pulled the slides off, cleaned them really well (and the barrel) to get the Remoil off and applied more of the dry Teflon, rubbed it in well before the solvent dried and, after the solvent had dried, put a light coat of oil back on the slides.  Shot 25-50 through it, pulled the slide and did it again.  Then I shot another couple or so boxes to the 150 to 200 shot mark, pulled the slide cleaned it again....the slides are now smoother than I could have imagined.

This is just me...I'm somewhat the way I am because I'm an engineer.

Now, for you guys with plastic pistols....what the heck do I do to break in my new FN Five SeveN?  I'm thinking the same thing on the metal-to-metal bearing parts but cannot use the Remoil on the plastic so I'll sub an acceptable oil that won't affect the plastic.  However...I have sprayed it with the Dry Remington Teflon on the metal, then smeared it real well on the metal bearing parts adjacent to the plastic.  Now..I'm ready to shoot it for the first time.  So...are there any specific things to do for a "plastic" pistol that I missed?

[HBMan]

I might get BLASTED for this but I have waited for different 1911 type pistols to "BREAK IN" after a period of shooting X number of rounds and X amount of fiddling with that NEVER did get reliable enough to feel right and be a keeper.

On the other hand I have found plenty of guns that ran 100% right out of the box and never needed tinkering with for reliability or accuracy. One certain brand stands out in this respect also but that is just in my experience and also happens to be the brand I have owned the most of.

Having said that I don't put much stock into the "Break In" period for most pistols as it relates to reliable functioning or accuracy. Slickness of cycling and having that "comfortable" feel in the hand does seem to definitely get better with more and more shooting but I sure can't put a round count on it.

Don't have enough time with the plastic pistols to even comment on them but with the steel guns my usual lubrication is just enough plain old lubriplate and oil in the right spots to get the job done. I have never felt let down by not enough lubrication.

To me a gun is RELIABLE or NOT,plain and simple. It has to prove itself right from the start.

This is just my opinion, I COULD be wrong.

HBMan

[Rock44]

I was always taught 1911 types get a 1000 round break in,could be that was the older ones,as for lubing look for wear areas,I put grease in some spots and oil in others don't over do it.you can get a DVD or booklet on your type gun and should show you how to clean it and lube.

[Sponsor]

[Bidah]

The only pistols that I have had to even worry about a break in were the 1911's.  My CZ 75, XD, Rugers, and Kel-Tec ran perfect from the box.  My SA Loaded 1911 ran perfect from the box.  My wifes, as well as my Kimber Compact 1911, did not.  They each had a hiccup or two during the first 300 rounds, perfect since.  My wife shoots hers all the time, and I shoot the SA most of the time.

While not so much a break in, for me it is a proving ground.  Minimum rounds for me is 500 without a problem for each mag and weapon that is to be carried.  Otherwise it is a range weapon only, and I don't have many of those.

-Bidah

[2HOW]

73driver, first IMHO you should clean a new pistol with a CLP, I recommend breakfree. The stove pipe or non feed you mention is probably a wrist problem or your grip is not stable, most .40s have alot of recoil and grip management is essential. Clean your weapon after every fireing. Do your self a favor and buy a can of Breakfree CLP and dont use anything else, its a great cleaner,lubricant and preservative all in 1 can. I have been using it exclusively for 20 years. I recommend spraying the pistol down and letting it sit over night before wipeing it off, it will soak into the metal really help the works. Most important thing you can do is go to a range and get some expert instruction. It may save your life or someone you love, or ME.

[texcaliber]

Most important thing you can do is go to a range and get some expert instruction

That was the best advice yet. As a matter of fact do not walk, R U N for instruction from either the store of purchase. If they dont help ya(1) dont shop there anymore (2) tell everyone (3) get a certified instructor to help ya at the range. 3 may cost ya some change but as 2HOW said

It may save your life or someone you love, or ME. Grin

Tex