I pulled the triigger again: Reloading

[alfack]

It's amazing how many FMs and TMs are out there on the internet.

I was mostly thinking about how to make a smokeless powder, good enough for consistant reloads. Not for a pipe bomb or muzzle loader , lol. Though, that is good knowledge to have.

[ericire12]

It's amazing how many FMs and TMs are out there on the internet.

I was mostly thinking about how to make a smokeless powder, good enough for consistant reloads. Not for a pipe bomb or muzzle loader , lol. Though, that is good knowledge to have.

Well, this thread has now officially gotten the attention of the FBI

[Jkwas]

Thanks for the encouragement!  I ordered a Lee single stage press kit with loading manual,  Deluxe 4pc carbide die set and an autoprime tool with shell holder.  I'm going to mount the press on my workbench shimmed up on the bottom so the decapped primers can be removed.   I'm going to try the powder measure that comes with the die set and see how that works out before I go into the more exotic measuring devices.   I've got a ton of used brass saved that I will decap first, then after studying up on the procedures I'll order primers, powder and bullets.   I'm leaning toward Alliant Bullseye, CCI 500 small pistol primers and  158gn SWC hardcast lead bullets.  It seems like the loading data for this bulllet is the same regardless of manufacturer, is this true?   Also, how exact does overall bullet length have to be?  Can it be done by eye or do I need to break out the micrometer?    I'm going to get a bullet puller too for the inevitable screw-ups.  I can't wait to "Roll my own" 

What's that noise?  Are those black helicopters out there?     Thank guys! 

[alfack]

It seems like the loading data for this bulllet is the same regardless of manufacturer, is this true? 

Generally, no. Each powder maker or bullet maker usually has their own load data for each cartridge. They can vary somewhat, usually not extreme. In your case, I would use the Alliant data that is available. Be sure to note the differences between lead and jacketed bullets.

Also, how exact does overall bullet length have to be?  Can it be done by eye or do I need to break out the micrometer? 

You're gonna want to break out the micrometer, for sure. You definitely don't want to be over the maximum cartridge spec OAL, especially if you are loading for an auto. Similarly, you don't want to be too far under the load data spec. If you are under, you can increase the pressure of the cartridge and damage your pistola. I usually try to make sure my pistol rounds are + or - .005 of the load data spec, unless the .005 puts me over the max cartridge spec. You don't have to be anally precise, or you would spend a lot of time adjusting your seating die.

Let us know how you did, when you manage to crank a few out.

[tombogan03884]

You should be able to get decent dial caliper for under $50 from any of the shooting supply places, Midway, Brownell's etc, or tool supply co. MSC, Harbor freight. You DO NOT need a set off $250 digital Mitatoyo calipers.

[Sponsor]

[Jkwas]

I resurfaced my workbench and built a mounting block and bolted down the press on saturday. I shimmed it so that the decapped primers eject out the bottom into a collection area.  I decapped 200 casings and got them ready for priming. I only found two cracked cases which I discarded.  So far, so good.  This week my primers, powder, and bullets come.  Get the safety glasses out! 

[m25operator]

OK Jkwas, now your commited, I would not use bullseye, or CCI primers, not that they are bad, but the powder is dirty, and the primers are very hard, the hardest if I might say so, if you have any action work done on the revolver they might not go  bang. For revolvers, Federal 100's are the best, and Winchester 2nd, remington is not too bad. Winchester 231 is one my favorites for .38 special, and the new target powders, super field, etc.. are very clean and reliable. You will get lots of unburnt powder from bullseye that will collect under the extractor, and bind the cylinder.

Now that you have chosen a single stage press, 1st,  resize all the cases, then bellmouth, the cases so the bullet can enter undisturbed,  then reprime them all,  and next charge them with powder and seat the bullet, and crimp at the same time. Do this in stages with as many cases as you have available, and you can produce a lot of ammo without working too hard.

Good luck

[rat_6]

Wow, you sure are getting a lot of advice.  Let me throw in my $.02...

Primers
Check the directions on the Lee Auto-Prime.  I have a bunch of Lee equipment, and all of it warns against using Federal primers.  There is something about Federal primers that is funny with Lee equipment.  I have stuck to CCI, Winchester, and have recently tried Wolf as well.  Lee has posted the instructions for most of their equipment on their website.  Google Lee Precision.

Powder
I started reloading back in 2005 and was really nervous when I got started.  Initially, I started out loading .45 Colt for cowboy shooting, much like the .38 Spl.  You will do fine, just stick to the basics to get started.  You might want to look into trying some Hodgden Titegroup powder when starting out.  It is easy to work with and pretty forgiving in long revolver cases.  You also get a lot of bang for your $ with this.  Also as mentioned before, Winchester 231 is great as well.

Recommendations
Look into getting a Lee Powder Funnel.  It is just a few bucks and will make your life easier when using the Lee dippers.  It fits ontop of the powder through-expander die.  I also use something called an Overall Length Cartridge Gauge.  This is simply a metal cylinder machined to the maximum dimensions of the specified round.  I check every round in these gauges as part of the quality control and checks I do after I have loaded my ammo.  Any case exceeding the max OAL will stick out the end of the gauge.

Good luck, and have fun with it.  Reloading is a great hobby.  In just a few years, I have gone from one to eight calibers with all kinds of various machines, devices, and tools.  It is a tinkerer's dream come true.

M.

[saltydogbk]

  I can use some help.  I will be reloading the following: 38spc, 44 mag and spc, 45 acp, 223, and lastly 308.  I have not done this before.  It would be nice to have the time to experiment with different powders, but bHO is barking at the door.  I want clean burning, good powder for each caliber mentioned.  The 44 will also be used in a long gun.  I want to buy a sh*t load, that is why I am asking.  Every minute the price goes up.  Thanks in advance

[PegLeg45]

  I can use some help.  I will be reloading the following: 38spc, 44 mag and spc, 45 acp, 223, and lastly 308.  I have not done this before.  It would be nice to have the time to experiment with different powders, but bHO is barking at the door.  I want clean burning, good powder for each caliber mentioned.  The 44 will also be used in a long gun.  I want to buy a sh*t load, that is why I am asking.  Every minute the price goes up.  Thanks in advance

A lot of the guys at my range have recommended Titegroup for handguns and Varget for rifle loads. They all say they are clean burning, will load a wide variety of calibers,  and they go a long way for the buck.
A good friend says the Varget is the best he's ever run through his .308. Very clean, he says.
I have both powders in storage but have yet to have time to try them. My first batch will be .44 mag and special using the Titegroup. John Taffin speaks highly of it in his reloading column.

Good luck.