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Author Topic: 10/22 problem  (Read 5330 times)

dj454

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10/22 problem
« on: March 12, 2009, 10:08:49 PM »
I have a problem with my 10/22 and I hope some of you may be able to help me. My 10/22 was built in 1981 but I only purchased it a couple of years ago from a pawn shop and I have no idea how many rounds have been ran through it. I started shooting it in a rimfire match back in November and I keep having problems with jamming. I bought some new magazines and it helped but it still does it. It will fail to clear the last round before the bolt shuts. It feeds the next round and closes on the spent brass. When I am practicing its not that big a deal but in the match which is timed it sucks. I am running standard velocity Federal ammuntion. My wifes new 10/22 runs it perfectly and never jams. I have tried other ammo but the problem continues. I am wondering if the recoil spring is worn out. I don't have a lot of money to throw at this thing and there are upgrades I would like to make as I can afford it. Any help would be appreciated.
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Majer

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Re: 10/22 problem
« Reply #1 on: March 12, 2009, 10:27:20 PM »
This may sound like an odd question...But, Have you cleaned and lightly oiled it recently? .22 rimfires are one of the dirtiest shooting round known to man.The 10/22 is a bullet proof(no pun intended) design that will work properly for years with the correct care.
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Badgersmilk

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Re: 10/22 problem
« Reply #2 on: March 12, 2009, 10:35:37 PM »
"Stove pipe" jam. 

Sounds like the extractor claw is worn, or not moving freely.  Could simply be dirt.  Worst case scenerio a new claw is about $10.

Use a pick to slide the plunger behind the claw toward the back of the bolt as far as you can.  Wiggle the claw a little and it'll fall right out.  Now CAREFULLY move the plunger forward and relieve tension on the little spring hidden in there.  Not likely its clean enough in there to let the spring go flying if you havent been in there before.  But you dont want to loose those little parts!  Re-assembly is the reverse procedure.  To clean in there pull some of the cotton off the end of a Q-tip (about half of it), soak the remaining cotton with cleaner and insert it into the little hole the spring and plunger came out of.  Then spray in there with compressed air if its available.  LIGHTLY oil all parts!

The claw should have a nice SHARP, square edge that hooks onto the brass and pulls it free from the chamber.  If not.  Dump it and get a new one.  Power Customs offers both tool steel, or titainium.  HIGHLY RECOMMEND!

So long as you use at LEAST standard LR ammo it wouldnt have anything to do with the recoil spring unless the spring and rod, or slides in the receiver are so dirty the bolt isnt going all the way back allowing the ejector to hit the brass...  If thats it...   >:( >:( >:( 
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MikeBjerum

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Re: 10/22 problem
« Reply #3 on: March 13, 2009, 07:18:58 AM »
I go with the others on the good cleaning for a start.  Since it worked before and your wife's newer one works the ammo should have sufficient power to cycle.  However, crudding up could cause an issue.  My experience, take this advice as value equal to what you are paying for it, is that a weak spring would cause more issues with the bolt not closing completely as opposed to not ejecting.

Bottom line advice from me would be to do a complete cleaning stripping it down all the way.

Good luck!
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ericire12

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Re: 10/22 problem
« Reply #4 on: March 13, 2009, 07:29:50 AM »
My vote is for the extractor being the problem........ You should first start by trying a very thorough cleaning...... try Break Free CLP....... saturate everything metal with it and scrub it really well..... then leave it alone (Dont wipe all the cleaner off -- it needs to soak) and come back to it in 2 or 3 days.
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Re: 10/22 problem
« Reply #5 on: Today at 03:47:47 PM »
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tumblebug

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Re: 10/22 problem
« Reply #5 on: March 13, 2009, 01:10:06 PM »
+ 10 on the  C L P ;D ;D ;D
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Badgersmilk

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Re: 10/22 problem
« Reply #6 on: March 13, 2009, 03:28:51 PM »
Let us know what you find...  A little strange for a 10/22 to do something like this. 

I'm guessing its still an all original gun (barrel, internals, and such?)  I've seen 10/22's that were modified to slam fire full auto stove pipe a lot too.  NOT A GOOD / SAFE IDEA!  If its something like this you can get replacement parts from Midway, Ruger direct, heck, even ebay!
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dj454

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Re: 10/22 problem
« Reply #7 on: March 13, 2009, 05:48:35 PM »
I don't think it is the cleanliness. I am very anal about my gun maintenance. I always disassemble and clean every part of my firearms after every time out at the range. I also keep them lubed but not too much especially on rimfires I learned that a long time ago. I will tear it down and compare the extractor with my wifes and see. Thanks guys.
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m25operator

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Re: 10/22 problem
« Reply #8 on: March 13, 2009, 06:10:56 PM »
Take the complete bolt out of your wifes and swap it, the headspace is on the barrel, not the bolt so is plenty safe.
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Badgersmilk

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Re: 10/22 problem
« Reply #9 on: March 13, 2009, 08:46:26 PM »
M25.  I like your idea there about him swapping bolts.  Will prove out the extractor issue right away!

Headspace is determined by the bolt on a 10/22.  I think, you may be thinking "headspace" is the distance between the bullet and the threads.  Headspace is the distance from the face of the chamber / barrel, or the part of the bolt that touches this surface when in battery, to the back of the inlet on the bolt where the case will sit when the round is in the chamber.  You should see about .046" on this measurement on the average 10/22.  .043" is MINIMUM for a .22 rimfire.

Sorry if I did a horrible job trying to explain that all.  It's REALLY hard without being able to show pictures or the parts...  I'll see what photos I can find and post em.

The bolts should interchange without a problem though.  And it will help A LOT in finding your problem.  Great idea!
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