Project du jour: Stock refinishing

[tombogan03884]

 In that case the you should never have any problems with it. I will be keeping it in mind .

[Big Frank]

Sometimes when I spraypaint I wear disposable rubber gloves like doctors wear. A box of 100 is cheap and lasts me for several years. They have smaller packages for a dollar. I can atcually hang onto the part I'm painting and turn it around to get the other side.

[m25operator]

The texture does look very nice, the shine is a bit much for my taste, but could now be shot with matte black or the color pattern of your choice.

Laminate stocks are very resistant to weather changes, extreme temperature and moisture, they are impregnated under pressure with epoxy resin, the down side compared to composite is weight.

A trick by many riflesmiths , or stock specialist, is mask off the forend and grip area and apply bedliner material there for purchase. You can even do it in a pattern like Fleur de lis, if you are disposed to do so. I am talking about composite stocks.

Good job BM, enjoy it, thanks for the pics and follow ups. Feel Proud.

Rubber type gloves are great, so are coat hangers bent to your will and suspending the pieces.

Finish on the stock, is probably urethane, works great. If you have the time, buffing a laminate is prettier, looks like top of the line wood, with no pores showing, but it is not easy and takes a while. Pretty easy on knife handles though. Most custom knife handles don't have a finish, the wood is just buffed on a felt wheel with compound, whether natural wood or laminate. It is beautiful.

[Badgersmilk]

Took the rifle out for a test firing this morning.  Just field shooting a pop can @ 124 yards  .  

One thing I noticed about bed liner finish is it's about the same hardness as a soft wood.  If you press your finger nails into it hard it will leave a mark.  For a few minutes.  After that, it slowly swells back.  Also after more handleing it's looses some of the "gritty" feeling, and has more of a regular "non-slip", "traction" kind of feel (what I wanted anyway).  If your going out for a long day of shooting this stuff is going to have your cheek plenty sore because the cheek weld is TIGHT!  BAD IDEA to put this on a .50 cal or something like that!  You'll end up needing a skin graft!

If you REALLY dig your nail into it as hard as you can it will leave a perminant mark, not much of one, and with this texture, unless you know where you left the mark and exactly what angle it was at, you likely won't find it again.  Plus I'm sure it could be touched up with a quick squirt from the can if you really tore into it somehow.

I'd still do it again.  

[Hazcat]

Took the rifle out for a test firing this morning.  Just field shooting a pop can @ 124 yards  . 

One thing I noticed about bed liner finish is it's about the same hardness as a soft wood.  If you press your finger nails into it hard it will leave a mark.  For a few minutes.  After that, it slowly swells back.  Also after more handleing it's looses some of the "gritty" feeling, and has more of a regular "non-slip", "traction" kind of feel (what I wanted anyway).  If your going out for a long day of shooting this stuff is going to have your cheek plenty sore because the cheek weld is TIGHT!  BAD IDEA to put this on a .50 cal or something like that!  You'll end up needing a skin graft!

Now that it's fully cured I'd compare its durability to a hard wood.  If you REALLY dig your nail into it as hard as you can it will leave a perminant mark, not much of one, and with this texture, unless you know where you left the mark and exactly what angle it was at, you likely won't find it again.  Plus I'm sure it could be touched up with a quick squirt from the can if you really tore into it somehow.

I'd still do it again. 

You could always use a leather cheek pad.

[Sponsor]

[Badgersmilk]

The .308 recoil isn't bad.  It does pull your cheek a little, and after 20 rounds or so you'd be getting sore.  If anybody's putting this coating on an ought six, .300 mag, or anything with more recoil than that, and doing much shooting with it.  Heck yeah!  A cheek pad of some kind is gonna be a must.

Nice one.

[tombogan03884]

For future reference  you (or who ever is thinking of using this, Like me   ) Might consider taping of the area where their cheek rests on the stock. Then if the bare spot doesn't look right they can hit that with  ordinary untextured black paint.
 That should eliminate that problem.

[MikeBjerum]

For future reference  you (or who ever is thinking of using this, Like me   ) Might consider taping of the area where their cheek rests on the stock. Then if the bare spot doesn't look right they can hit that with  ordinary untextured black paint.
 That should eliminate that problem.

Damn smart for an average clown on this forum.  Most of us would just whine about the pain and then sand it off