Need Help with Finishing a Laminated Stock

[david86440]

The Big Brown Truck delivered a couple unfinished laminated Boyd stocks today and I want to use a finish on them that doesn't darken or alter the color that they are now.

I normally use tung oil, but that will darken the wood more than what I want the finished product to look like.


Any ideas for a finish will be appreciated,

David

[tombogan03884]

 Try PMing TAB. Or wait for him to reply to this thread.
Normally I would say TAB is a jerk but this is different, the guy KNOWS woodworking.

[m25operator]

I'll be interested to see what TAB says.

David, I think any chemical or oil finish, is going to darken the wood, to some degree, just rub the stock with water and you will see what an oil finish will get you, before you start, clear urethane may not, if you have some, try it out lightly on the unfinished butt area and see, use light coats with plenty of time to dry between coats, so the urethane won't penetrate the wood, down side is it is shiny. Another technique, and it takes time and effort, is to burnish the stock, by that I mean polish it, use your standard technique to bring the wood to a fine finish with sandpaper, wet sanding with finer and finer grits, and 000 or 0000 steel wool, then use a felt wheel or bob and polish the wood, it makes a beautiful finish, all the pores will be invisible. Down side, you have to go slow, I would use a car buffing set up, and I use white or green chromate polishing media, you need to take a light touch and not OVERHEAT the wood, that's the problem, if you overheat a spot, you are going to have to sand it back out several .001" to start over, as the friction will turn that area brown, just like rubbing sticks together to make a fire.

Good luck with your projects.

[twyacht]

I have restored several antique furniture pieces mainly, oak, cherry, hickory, and walnut. Denatured alcohol in combo with 0000Steel wool, and wet sanding with fine grit sandpaper, as m25 posted, should be enough on a new stock to get it "baby bottom" smooth.

Urethane requires many steps, as posted, but will , create a stock as solid as a rock. For a newer build this may be an option.

Antique/ vintage firearms can go about oils, but new stuff comes out great with even with a clear coat application. The key is in the prep and application. TAB may know the brand specific stuff.

It certainly will be personal, one of a kind, and durable. More posts to come I'm sure. Enjoy.

Still contemplating my Grandfather's 1891 Mauser. It's a beautiful kinda orange colored wood, but there is some graining and marbling that is under years and years of just oiling.

Will get to it.

Enjoy your projects.

[PegLeg45]

I have used Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil on several shotgun stocks, to great effect. So far no discoloration or fading...and it is durable and tough. Sanded and hand rubbed it on with a light steel wool dressing between coats.

Tru-Oil® Gun Stock Finish
There is no better oil finish! TRU-OIL Gun Stock Finish is the professional's choice for gunstock (or furniture) finishing for more than 30 years. Its unique blend of linseed and natural oils dries fast and will not cloud, yellow or crack with age and resists water damage. TRU-OIL Gun Stock Finish penetrates deeply and forms a tough, clear, hard finish that protects and enhances the beauty of fine woods. For a hand rubbed, satin luster, simply buff with steel wool and rubbing compound or use Stock Sheen & Conditioner. Excellent as a sealer for under butt plates, recoil pads and in inletted actions to prevent stock damage. Use the liquid for fast filling of the pores and the aerosol for the final finish.

http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/sport/index.html


Standard polyurethanes give a durable finish, but some I have seen will yellow in cold weather. I think it is best used on furniture that is inside. There are some specially made for gunstocks out there like is sold at Midway.

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=290871

[Sponsor]

[david86440]

Thanks everyone for the advice so far. I knew I would get some great ideas.


Has anyone tried beeswax over raw wood?

A couple Birchwood Casey products sound promising. I think I want a satin rather than glossy finish although glossy may look OK with the pepper stock.

[PegLeg45]

Thanks everyone for the advice so far. I knew I would get some great ideas.


Has anyone tried beeswax over raw wood?

A couple Birchwood Casey products sound promising. I think I want a satin rather than glossy finish although glossy may look OK with the pepper stock.

On the Tru-Oil, after the final glossy coat, for a hand rubbed, satin luster, simply buff with steel wool and rubbing compound or use Stock Sheen & Conditioner.

[twyacht]

Thanks everyone for the advice so far. I knew I would get some great ideas.


Has anyone tried beeswax over raw wood?

A couple Birchwood Casey products sound promising. I think I want a satin rather than glossy finish although glossy may look OK with the pepper stock.

I have used Moore's and Fornsby's, wax, the only drawback is, it is a rifle and you can get it so smooth and can become, almost too slick with a wax. Like an ice cube on a glass table....

Although it's great on furniture, resists the elements well, wax also "builds up" on the finish and over time will "dull" the color, and texture, and will need refinishing in the future.

Beeswax, also requires a "wax on wax off" amount of time involving process, that can be relentless.


Tru-Oil, is light and durable. Additionally, if your a firearm fondler, like me, wiping down a fine rifle in the evening with a fresh coat before a morning trip is a Zen moment.

It's the same with my 1840's sideboard. It's Tiger Oak, will outlive me, as the previous owner, and has nothing but an oil finish. It literally shines when the sun hits it, the darker grains have a sheen, while the lighter grain has a shine. I'll have to post a pic with my Winchester on top of it in the morning sun, it just makes one smile.

[david86440]

These are the laminate stocks that I will be finishing.

I did a previous one in tung oil, but that stock was walnut.

I want the contrasting colors to come through as much as possible.

[Solus]

Find a way to see of Tru-Oil will do what you want.

I used it on the first stock I refinished and was amazed at how good that old Mossberg bolt action 20ga looked.

It also made me look like a pro.