Hey, Any Of You Home Contruction Guys Out There

[Rastus]

First, I am not in a position to build a new house, but I am considering moving a few miles which will cause me to build predicated on a sell where I am.  To understand what I can and cannot do, I need to get a ROM cost comparison to build a Poly Steel (foam block, steel rebar, poured concrete walls) or like home vs. normal stick and mortar brick.  

Anybody out there have an idea if it is cheaper or more expensive.  I know it will relate to concrete costs and how thick the walls are...I'm a chicken when it comes to these Oklahoma tornadoes.

Also...I want to have ceiling joists, rafters, trusses etc. out of steel.  Who makes good steel to replace wooden 2x4, 2x6's, 2x8's and so on with steel equivalents?  

The long range plan is basement, concrete walls, steel rafters tied into the concrete walls and probably single story.  I'm building for our future exorbinent energy costs that are on the way about 5 or so years out, so I will include things like a double roof that vents in between and out the ridge, etc.

Helpful ideas, ways to estimate costs, construction material suppliers and the like would be appreciated.

Gotta sell this house and buy some property, then build...it's gonna be busy for a while and we'll live in a shop for a while during construction if we go forward with this.

First things first, I need to get some info on costs estimation.  I also plan on using union carpenters as possible on this project so if anyone has an idea of the part they can play in a concrete home, please let me know that too.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
Ken

[TAB]

Raises hand   



ICF are both good and bad.  As to rather they are cheaper then stick building, its going to depend on 3 factors,  your distance the ICF need to be shiped, the  local labor rate for frameing and your local concreate costs.   

[SwoopSJ]

Have you looked into subterranean (earth shelter, earth berm) homes?  I'm not sure what the cost is in comparison to more traditional building methods, but they would be unequaled  in both strength and utility savings.  Something to consider, anyway.

Swoop
 

[TAB]

Have you looked into subterranean (earth shelter, earth berm) homes?  I'm not sure what the cost is in comparison to more traditional building methods, but they would be unequaled  in both strength and utility savings.  Something to consider, anyway.

Swoop
 

every notice how those homes are only built in places that don't rain or freeze... there is a reason for that.   

[Timothy]

every notice how those homes are only built in places that don't rain or freeze... there is a reason for that.   

Actually TAB, the freeze depth average in the northern states is between 3 and 5 feet.  Earth berm type homes are actually quite efficient as the temperature below the freeze line rarely gets below 56 degrees.

Iceland for example, had been building earthen homes for a thousand years.

[Sponsor]

[TAB]

if you are bellow the frost line you are fine, but the deeper you go the more it costs.  The main prob with those homes is water.

Trying to prevent it from getting in.  There are 2 main methods for that.  1 spraying on a  sealant(generally a type of rubber or tar) 2 building it out of 6 sack or better.  Both of those options are very expensive.     if it leaks, legally it can be condemend in ALL 50 STATES 

[Rastus]

The wife won't go for subterranean.  Basement, yes...dirt piled on sides or top of home....nope.  It would save a lot of money to do that...a friend of a friend has one and has about a $50 a month heating and cooling bill...at least that's what it was 5 years ago and he isn't concerned about tornados.

TAB, I've no idea about the Tulsa area frame rates.  I refuse to use anyone illegal, so the price I would have to pay would be higher than the average.  ICF...you lost me on the acronym.  I am assuming you mean constrution of forms with poured/pumped concrete.  

6 yards of 3000 psi concrete delivered is about $500, add $5/yd per 500 psi increase.  What strength concrete should I use in the home?  I am thinking towards the max with fiberglass mix in it for reinforcement.  That's in trailers mixed onsite.

Late minute adder.  TAB, no problem with water at this location, if I do move the grade will drop 50' about the same distance behind the homesite so sealing and draining won't be a problem for the basement.

[TAB]

ICF= Insulated Concrete Forms  its the sytrofoam blocks/ panels you then pore mix into.

here in a nut shell are thier pros and cons..

pros,

great insulation ( everything from termal, to noise)

fast build times for simple structures(4 corner/6 corner houses)

lower labor rates with experanced crews( crews that are not use to them will cost you way more)

They can offer strom protection( for more money of corse)

cons

hard to modify latter down the road( in all aspects,)

higher cost for materials.

limiting design options. ( generally fixed diametions and simple angles only, stuff can be made to order or cut and sealled on site, but its $$$$$$$$$$)

some systems have limited siding/ int fisnihing options.

small mistakes like misted  ties, wires/ pluming in the wrong place all of which must be installed pre pore cost big bucks to fix.(see the pro above about exp crews)



just for the record I've built 6 homes with ICF, every thing from a 1200 sqft 6 corner, to a 6500 sqft monster that was very complex( should have stick built that)

[Timothy]

Rastus,

I've lilved in the midwest, lived through the storms, the frozen north and the extremely wet springtimes that you have.  I've also lived through one winter near the arctic circle where the wind on a normal December day averaged 60 MPH.

My recommendation would be to find a guy with local building experience to engineer the structure to withstand the nasty weather, provide a comfortable home in both the extreme heat and extreme cold and provide a safe hideout for the family during the revolution if and when it comes.

I respect the folks that build houses but if I were living where you live, there ain't NO WAY I'd live in a stick built house.

I'd live in a mobile home, you know they never get hit by bad weather!

 

[david86440]

Here is a link you might find helpful.

http://www.forms.org/content.cfm?act=constructioncost

How much does an ICF house cost?
Houses built by experienced contractors cost about .5-4% more than wood frame houses of the same design.
Typical new U.S. homes cost $60-100 per square foot. Building walls of ICFs adds $1.00-$4.00 to this figure. But since ICF houses are more energy-efficient, the heating and cooling equipment can be smaller than in a frame house. This can cut the cost of the final house by an estimated $.75 per square foot. So the net extra cost is about $.25-$3.25.

Why is there such a big range in the costs?
The cost of using any construction product is pushed up or down by dozens of factors that change from house to house. But for experienced crews, the major influences on ICF cost are fairly predictable.
To begin you can assume that your house will cost $2.00 more per square foot to build with ICFs. This is near the middle of the historical range. Then adjust this cost premium according to the particular features of your construction project:

 
If you can buy ICF forms for $2.00 per square foot    Subtract $.50
If you buy ICF forms for $3.00 per square foot    Add $.50
If you will finish the exterior with stucco    Subtract $.50
If you will finish the exterior with individual shingles    Add $.30
If you will build the house to resist high winds    Subtract $.50
If you will build the house to resist earthquake    Add $.15
If the cost of wood rises to $4 per stud    Subtract $.20
If the cost of wood falls to $2.25 per stud    Add $.12
If you can buy concrete for $35 per cubic yard    Subtract $.16
If you buy concrete for $65 per cubic yard    Add $.13
If your design includes cantilevered floors or walls    Consult an engineer