1911 feeding issues

[ellis4538]

Right, Parkersburg...my bad.  You probably wouldn't talk to Wayne but he has a very gifted staff.

Richard

[garand4life]

This is a Taurus PT1911AL. My original was the original PT1911. I carried the PT1911 a good bit but this time round I really want to ensure the best functionality I can get out of it without unreasonable expense. I wanted a Springfield but I'm getting this one for dirt cheap so I can't argue too much.

[PegLeg45]

I've got a bridgeport, bring it on over...

For what it'd cost in gas I could probably buy a Bridgeport.     

[TAB]

For what it'd cost in gas I could probably buy a Bridgeport.      

brand new with all the bells and whisles...  they are just under 20k like that.  14k for bare bones.


on yeah and a bunch of tooling.

[tombogan03884]

I haven't heard anything except good reports about the PT1911

[Sponsor]

[billt]

It doesn't matter here what the brand is g4l, a good break in, and a fluff & buff of the feed ramp with some Flitz, should do the trick on 99% of 1911's.

+1 !

And on many other guns as well. My "Baby" Desert Eagle .45 ACP had a really rough feed ramp. In fact I'm surprised it made it out of the factory in that condition. I took a pencil air grinder with a small 1/2" dia. Cratex Wheel I dressed down slightly to around .460 dia., and gently started it in an up and down motion along the center of the feed ramp. I continued this until the entire ramp was smooth and void of any tool marks or rough spots.

I then switched to a hard felt wheel of the same diameter and applied a liberal coating of Flitz Metal Polish. Using the same up and down motion until the entire feed ramp was polished to an almost diamond polish, mirror finish. Afterward I gave everything a good wet cleaning with clean Kerosene, blew everything dry, gave it a good lube job and it runs like a scalded dog with any ammo I stick in it.

The trick to doing this correctly is to use no more than a Cratex Wheel and take your time! Too many guys will Bubba a job like this because they remove too much material with too coarse of an abrasive. Stay away from sanding drums and the like. They'll ruin a good barrel in no time at all. Be patient and stop every few seconds to check your progress. When you're done you'll have a weapon that will feed most any ammo without any issues what so ever.  Bill T.

[garand4life]

+1 !

And on many other guns as well. My "Baby" Desert Eagle .45 ACP had a really rough feed ramp. In fact I'm surprised it made it out of the factory in that condition. I took a pencil air grinder with a small 1/2" dia. Cratex Wheel I dressed down slightly to around .460 dia., and gently started it in an up and down motion along the center of the feed ramp. I continued this until the entire ramp was smooth and void of any tool marks or rough spots.

I had the same gun in .40 with the same issue. I was like quality control took a vacation that week. I ended up just getting rid of it. Bad move now that I think of it. But, it was my first handgun and I figured there were better fish in the sea and so far I think I've been right.

[MikeBjerum]

I don't think you'd get that response here though I could be wrong.  There are plenty of 1911 guns on the market that are reliable and function properly without breaking the bank.  I have one of those myself as do several other regulars on this forum.

I've seen 2500 dollar guns choke on every other mag loaded into them but my little pistol just runs like a cheap Timex watch....

That is the hallmark of a true 1911.  They are basic, functional and reliable.  My range experience has told me that nine times out of ten a 1911 that has issues from the start is one that has been either constructed or modified "too tight."  I can not think of ever seeing a 1911 that was too loose or sloppy to run, but I have seen several highly smithed guns that lost their ability to be reliable.

[kmitch200]

My only problem with a 1911 was with a SIG GSR that wouldn't run through a full mag without a faliure to fire.
Sent it back to SIG and they replaced the series 80 type levers with longer ones. The original wouldn't push the firing pin block all the way up.  It worked after that.

A trip to my gunsmith for a proper trigger job, and it has been 100% ever since.
My Gold Cup and the Taurus PT1911 have never given me any problems.

[TAB]

That is the hallmark of a true 1911.  They are basic, functional and reliable.  My range experience has told me that nine times out of ten a 1911 that has issues from the start is one that has been either constructed or modified "too tight."  I can not think of ever seeing a 1911 that was too loose or sloppy to run, but I have seen several highly smithed guns that lost their ability to be reliable.

thats pretty much it right there...