That's a big reason why unless winter is REALLY cold, I pretty much quit ice climbing after Feb. Spring warm ups make conditions very unstable as the wild temp swings from night and day keep conditions changing so fast. An ice chute that would be solid and stable in the early morning, can turn the consistency of a slurpy but mid afternoon.
I lost 2 friends last year in Yellowstone when they were ice climbing in May. Simple fact was, that the ice was just too deteriorated that late in the season. The pillar that they were on collapsed, and killed them both.
I won't try and say that there isn't machoism in these choices. I know I do this stuff to challenge myself. (if it was easy, everyone would be doing it) But the fact is, you have to know where to draw the line. Some people have a hard time backing off. I've seen it, and the results usually are not pretty.
For example, I climbed Devils Tower last summer with my girlfriend at the time. We made it to the top of the route, about 60' from the actual summit. Because of an incoming thunder storm I turned us around right there. As anyone who has been there will tell you, Devils Tower is a giant natural lightning rod. She was pretty pissed at me for not getting her to the tip top, but her attitude changed as we were reaching the car and watching the lightning hitting all over the top of the thing. It's a pretty sobering experience when the hardware is rattling in the truck because the thunder is so powerful.
