Glock triggers

[alfsauve]

Thanks for starting this thread.   One goal I set is to shoot 500 in a Indoor GSSF league.  I might just have to improve the trigger a bit to get there.  This info and links are good.   Having only shot in 2 stages so far I've manage to hit 485, so I'm thinking anything to eek out an additional point or two will help.

[Solus]

Just ordered the "LWD Ultimate Trigger Stop".  Of everyone who's tried it I can't find a single bad comment other than the trouble people have from not using a cut back plate like you mention Solus.  From an engineering standpoint I like it better than the other alternatives to eliminate over travel.  Gonna polish out the firing pin and saftey, put her all together when the part comes and see what I've got.

I realize the LWD part is just a set screw added to the factory part, but don't already have a set screw, or tap small enough (checked).  So $25 bucks for the finished part is about right. 

The 5lb factory break weight is perfect imo.  I can't stand all that slop though. 

The advertised benefits of the titanium firing pin are sure tempting to!

Another thing you will want to check.   With the slide off, look at the high sloped surface of the tiigger mechanism.  It is the part that works the firing pin safety and it is often very rough and might have a burr from the stamping.  That is the surface that needed careful stoning on my Glocks.  Don't want to change that angle.

[Badgersmilk]

I ordered an extended mag release and back plate with the trigger stop and can't put my gun back together until the new parts get here anyway, gonna work on polishing until the new pcs come.

[Badgersmilk]

The before picture.  When I pulled the extractor plunger out I noticed a defect in the metal casting (near the end of the part on the left).  So figured I'd attempt to polish it out to.


OF COURSE I CHEATED!  I've got Flitz, but this stuff SMOKES it to our experience.  And my wife uses this baby dremel (she bought at Harbor Freight for $7) to polish out gold jewelry without removing material...  Pretty sure it's not going to harm hardened steel.  


You can actually give your parts darn good corrosion protection by using Barbicide in an ultra-sonic cleaner.  Also cleans to the point of sterilizing if needed.  


End result?  MIRROR PERFECT, and polished out the defect in the plunger where you cant see it at all.  Note, you can still see all the machine tooling marks, so NO material was removed.


Took about 5 minutes for all 3 parts.  And if you don't already have the cheapy tool, costs $7 bucks.  

Kinda scared pulling the frame all apart to get to the last piece...  Gotta be done though.  

[Badgersmilk]

Another 5 minutes worth of work, and you cant even tell which one of these parts was chrome plated at the factory.    It was so easy I just gave all the parts a complete polish.  But concentrated on "smoothing" the important areas.


Actually almost just falls right back together.  Maybe the easiest gun to full strip that I've ever done.  So if anyone else is hesitating to do this because their intimidated about getting it all back together (I was), DON'T SWEAT IT!  Just do it.

It's a shame the pictures don't show 1/10th of how shiny everything actually is.

I have no back plate, or mag. release to try the gun out cause I had ordered aftermarket ones and gave the originals away yesterday...  Solus!  Now you know where all those extra parts came from when you open the box with your sights in.  

[Sponsor]

[Solus]

Thanks, BM.  I'll start the DRTV Glock Spare Parts Warehouse.

I've made the same replacements you have plus a couple of guide rod lasers from LaserMAX, so I have spare guide rods for the inventory.

That was a very good video.  He did a good job, showing the part after full polishing and then demonstrating how they all fit together.

The surface of the trigger bar that rides on the trigger safety was still a bit rough.  That is where the stoning is used to make it completely smooth.  Metal is removed, but if the angle is retained, it works.  But there is where the risk of damage is and any improvement it might render might not be worth that risk.

You do good work too. 

The parts in your pictures seem to have a golden color.  Is that the lighting used?

[Badgersmilk]

I'm not that pimp'n!     Weird "Full Spectrum" bulb in that room.  Daylight:


The pins are polished titanium, the extended slide release and lock lever are chrome, stainless guide rod assembly, steel / tritium sights.


Aluminum back plate, extended mag release, and the adjustable overtravel part are actually supposed to be here today.


I LIKES TO TINKER!!!   

[Badgersmilk]

Now this is interesting.  I'm looking at this thing a little, and the video is misleading.  I'll agree polishing the plunger and its mating surface on part number 4256-1 may have an amount of effect on trigger feel and smoothness, but primarily during the first stage of pull (the safety).  The video tells you to polish the top part of 4256-1 though.  This surface has nothing to do with trigger pull.  It's the very back, vertical edge of 4256-1, and front face of the striker (part number 4557)  that are 90% of what you feel in a Glock trigger.  Aside from spring tension obviously.





When you pull the trigger 4256-1 (red arrow pointing at it) lowers.  Allowing 4557 to spring forward striking the primer of your round.


SO, concentrate your polishing accordingly.  I polished the parts in their entirety, and will give the back edge of 4256-1 just a bit of stoning and polish when my parts come.

Everything to this point can in no way harm reliability.  So long as your only polishing.  NOT removing material.  You stand to actually improve reliability a good degree.

NOW, if this were NOT a CCW gun.  But were for competition, target / bench shooting, hunting, plinking.  There would be two ways to remove creep.  The obvious choice is to SLIGHTLY flatten out the upward bend in the rear of 4256-1, because doing so would allow you to reverse / adjust what you did as desired.  The bad choice would be to remove material from / shorten the bottom of 4557 where it engages 4256-1.  LET IT BE KNOWN. I DON'T RECOMMEND EITHER!!!!
 And won't be doing either as this IS a CCW gun.

Again, I DON'T recommend adjusting any of these parts.  And DON'T recommend removing material.

[PegLeg45]

Also, as a side note, as has been my findings on other guns besides the Glock, polished surfaces tend to make cleaning much easier.

Badger, the one gun I own, but have never gutted to "investigate" is my G27.....but now, thanks to YOU............      


BTW, I'll swap my 27 for that 30........        

[Badgersmilk]

Got my back plate in!  Did another half hour of polishing and stoning.  All I'll say is if you have a Glock and don't polish out these parts.  Your driving a car with a flat tire!  Can it be "mastered"?  Sure.  

Yeah, the original amount of creep and over travel are still there.  BUT, first and second stage of the trigger are butter smooth now.  The transition between the two stages is better defined, and most important of all.  Even with the original amount of creep, it's an even, smooth, PREDICTABLE pull, with a crisp, clean break.  You can easily learn where it will break at every time.  HUGE improvement.  

I'd tested the pull weight before doing any of this.  And it's the exact same after 5.0 lbs.  Exactly 5.0 every time, and in the same part of the pull now.  

Also a huge improvement in how cycling the action by hand feels (I'd polished the guide rails the slide travels on).

I can't recommend the little $7 Harbor Freight tool highly enough for this!  You'd really have to try HARD to find a way to do any harm to your parts with it.  I'm not even sure how you would.  

Where to concentrate your polishing:


I added a small taper to the sear surface by stoning it with 600 grit paper on a glass plate.  Polish the end of the sear after stoning though!








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If you give this a shot (crazy not to imo!).  Post your results for us!