Most modern electronics, with "motherboards", like cellphones, remote controls, laptops, etc,....use a PLC, or programmable logic controller. Regardless of the input power, 12VDC, 120VAC, 9Volt Duracell, Lithium-Ion, NiCad,...doesn't matter.
Internal transformers, have gotten kinda fancy, they convert the incoming voltage to all kinds of voltage to run said component. 12volt AC, is pretty common for household electronics.
The PLC runs on a 6-20 milliamp controller. to brighten the red-dot, you change the signal to the PLC. Kind of like a fuel tank sender. But they usually run on an ohm resistance, as current and fuel can be bad...

In essence, the electrons are disrupted, through the magnetic pulse creating a forced "charge" through your stuff. Some Starfish Prime testing in the early 60's had 22,000 volts, "pulse" and knock out street lights in Hawaii, over 800 miles away. There was almost no amperage, but they were zapped with an exponential increase in voltage.
Electrical stuff back than was more primitive and rugged, compared to today's "motherboard" micro processors, silicone chips,...etc..
I don't know for sure if an Aimpoint, ACOG, EOTech, or any holographic optic would still work....If you were close enough, I'd say they would be kaput...
Hence, my BUIS....

If you have a safe, with hopefully a GFCI outlet, you could always place isolation bushings between the bolts, and safe. attach a 6 or 8 awg to a mounting bolt, and run in to your houses ground strap. (or get a 8 ft piece of re-bar, and pound 7 3/4 of it into the ground and clamp the cable to it. It could offer a better path of least resistance back to ground, which all stray voltage wants to do..
Thanks now I have a headache...
