Knives / Swords

[Hazcat]

Looking for a good knife to start with.

Yes, I know Mr janus makes great kives but I am looking for a working knife (perferably D2 steel) with about a 2.5 to 3 inch (max) blade (auto) in a reasonable price range.  Some thing that looks just like a 'normal' pocket knife (drop point).

Next I am loking for a short sword with a 22" blade (give or take) with a handle that can be two handed yet works much like a michette. Machette blades are too wide I'm looking for a (D2) blade that is maybe 2 inches wide.  Use for hach and slash on trees/ vines/ flesh.

If spelling is wrong , sorry.  Not on my computer with ie spell.

[tombogan03884]

   www.ColdSteel-Knives.com

[tigerclaw]

Looking for a good knife to start with.

Yes, I know Mr janus makes great kives but I am looking for a working knife (perferably D2 steel) with about a 2.5 to 3 inch (max) blade (auto) in a reasonable price range.  Some thing that looks just like a 'normal' pocket knife (drop point).

Next I am loking for a short sword with a 22" blade (give or take) with a handle that can be two handed yet works much like a michette. Machette blades are too wide I'm looking for a (D2) blade that is maybe 2 inches wide.  Use for hach and slash on trees/ vines/ flesh.

If spelling is wrong , sorry.  Not on my computer with ie spell.

Any particular reason you have a preference for D2??  PITA to heat-treat and get it to hold an edge, but really tough with good abrasion resisence...

[Pathfinder]

Looking for a good knife to start with.

Yes, I know Mr janus makes great kives but I am looking for a working knife (perferably D2 steel) with about a 2.5 to 3 inch (max) blade (auto) in a reasonable price range.  Some thing that looks just like a 'normal' pocket knife (drop point).

Next I am loking for a short sword with a 22" blade (give or take) with a handle that can be two handed yet works much like a michette. Machette blades are too wide I'm looking for a (D2) blade that is maybe 2 inches wide.  Use for hach and slash on trees/ vines/ flesh.

If spelling is wrong , sorry.  Not on my computer with ie spell.

I've got a Kershaw folder I bought some years ago, about $75 at the time, kydex handle, great assist, pocket clip, almost always in my back right pocket. I use a carbide sharpener on it and it is razor sharp. I thought it was dull, had to cut part of a cardboard box, went through about 18" of corrugated cardboard before I realized it was going and stopped it.

Hit a gun show, and find someone with good knives on the table and work a conversation with them.

As for the longer knife, I was going to recommend the Woodsman's Pal, pricey but looks damned effective. Also has great reports, but it is machete sized with a wicked hook for chopping out knees small trees.

I'm actually thinking of a VietNam era tomahawk or one of the modern Ranger ones. If you want to know why, well, in CQB when the knives come out - heck, just watch the scene in the Patriot in the woods, or when the English retreat from Fort William is attacked in Last of the Mohicans, especially the part where Bumpo is chasing down his love in the hands of an Indian.

[Hazcat]

Any particular reason you have a preference for D2??  PITA to heat-treat and get it to hold an edge, but really tough with good abrasion resisence...

I have done some research and a D2 (think KaBar fighting knife) is very hard yet will hold an edge (I can sharpen knives well) and yet has some spring to it.  Yes it will rust if not cared for but pretty much any stainless (even so called highcarbon stainless) dull rather quickly.

If you have better knowledge I am willing to listen.

I tend to abuse a knife.  I have an old kabar pocket knife (2.5 inch blade) that I use as a letter opener, screw driver, skinner , box cutter, etc.  Sharp as hell and holds it.  I would just like a spring type like it.

[Sponsor]

[Ksail101]

Hey Haz-
I cant help you too much with a sword but I love my Kershaw Whirlwind I carry it everyday. Also this link sends you too what I think is one of the best folders out there. Just my opinion and I would really like to get one and probably will.

AUTOMAT KALASHNIKOV 101 SERIES

http://www.boker.de/us/index.php?c=9,,&a=01KAL101&p=&pp=0

[CurrieS103]

Very nice knife Ksail...just might get one for myself.

[jc451911]

Haz, try this. I've had mine for a few years, but it didn't start as a D2 model. I sent it back with a minor repair, and an inquiry about paying for a partially serrated blade, but got a brand new D2 partially serrated blade for no cost. A great company to do business with.
Also, the AXIS lock is one of the toughest and simplest locks in the industry.

 http://www.benchmade.com/products/product_detail.aspx?model=710

.....and it's little brother, which I use more often than anything else....

http://www.benchmade.com/products/product_detail.aspx?model=707

They're a little pricey, but they are well worth the money.

Good luck!

[Ksail101]

You can never go wrong with a Benchmade either. They are issued to alot of units before deplotment. Just look up the knives with NSN order numbers and those are the ones the Army orders.

[tigerclaw]

I have done some research and a D2 (think KaBar fighting knife) is very hard yet will hold an edge (I can sharpen knives well) and yet has some spring to it.  Yes it will rust if not cared for but pretty much any stainless (even so called highcarbon stainless) dull rather quickly.

If you have better knowledge I am willing to listen.

I tend to abuse a knife.  I have an old kabar pocket knife (2.5 inch blade) that I use as a letter opener, screw driver, skinner , box cutter, etc.  Sharp as hell and holds it.  I would just like a spring type like it.

There is nothing wrong with D2, especially in a factory production setting.  As I said the heat-treat is rather involved and requires some very exact equipment (I've heat-treated some D2 blades for another knifemaker in the past and won't do it again).  It takes a lot of time and a lot of carefully controlled heat is all.  Production knifemaking and commercial heat-treaters are set up for this type of thing.

The abrasion resistence is high, which makes grinding is in its hardened state a pain.  As a knifemaker, you would want to do as much of your grinding as possible before the ht is done.  It takes a lot of good (read new) sharp grinding belts, but once it gets sharp it tends to stay that way.

I'm in the realm of custom knifemaking and most of us have our own pet alloys that we like to use (I favor simple and low alloy steels because I make a lot of Japanese swords), so my perspective is a bit different.  FWIW daily pocket knife is one of the Sig Sauer "Sig Tac" knives.