Lube Job

[tombogan03884]

Break Free ONLY

[CurrieS103]

Break Free.   Tetra Grease when I feel it needs it.

[DDMac]

Switched to Mobile 1 Syn.
Montana Extreme solvent.
Mac.

[tman]

Switched to Mobile 1 Syn.
Montana Extreme solvent.
Mac.

I heard, but hard to believe using motor oil on firearms, was also told law enforcement agencies use Mobile 1 Syn.  How do you apply it, a Qtip?

[addict]

I began using Corrosion X several years ago with excellent results. Prior to that I used Hoppes which was fine for range guns but lacking when hunting.
Addict

[Sponsor]

[Jim Urban]

Kroil. http://www.kanolabs.com/

KanoLabs make MANY different types of high quality lubrication products.

[Mojave Desert]

After WD-40 for cleaning, the high friction areas get a Q-tip application of Break Free CLP.
I have been using this combo for years.  My environment is mostly dry.  I haven't tested this combo for swamps, arctic, etc.

[CurrieS103]

I've heard Militech is good and the troops over in the sandbox rave about it.

http://www.militec1.com/

[Bill Stryker]

I have posted on this before. Years ago when I was still on active duty I saw a very impressive demonstration of MilTech at the Association of the US Army annual meeting and show in Washington. I have been using MilTech ever since on my pistols. I also use BreakFree CLP as instructed in the M16 Tech Manual on my AR. And I have no problems using it on my pistols if that is what is handy.

Re motor oil, it is good stuff. Many units were using it on their weapons back when I was on active duty. In answer to the question of how to use it, units usually had tubs filled with it and just dipped the appropriate parts in it and wiped as needed.

The important thing is to keep autoloaders lubed. I have come to feel that what you use is less important than the fact that you are using something. That said, I will say that WD40 is great for many things, but my guns are not one of those things. I used WD40 for several years, but it has several good properties that make it bad for my gun use. 1. It is a very good penetration oil that will ruin your primers if you are not very, very careful. And sometimes even if you are careful. 2. It leaves a film, this is a good thing for some uses, but the film has a habit of building up on your firearm in hard to reach places turning into crud holding goo, which over time is not a good thing. I found this to be especially true on .22s and .12 ga autoloaders.

I also use grease for the places specified in the TMs for the M1 and M1 Carbine. I still have some of the Army issue Lubriplate but have also been using the Remington Hinge Grease lately as the supply of Lubriplate has dwindled to see how that will work for the  M1 applications. I have found it to be good so far and I use it in more places now, such as on the M1 op rod end for about eight inches down to keep the carbon fouling at bay -- I would not have done that one in the old days. I also have been using it on the op rod springs for both the M1 and M1 Carbine with good results so far. I haven't seen Lubriplate for sale for years. That is too bad, but there does seem to be replacements available that are useful in more applications.

Hope this helps. I think I wrote more than you need to know. Its an engineer thing I guess.

[TAB]

motor oil is not a good choice.  It needs to be heated and persurised to provide lubracation.

WD 40 is also a poor choice for lubrcation, its great for removing water( not protecting metal, removing water)  which is was it was designed for.  So if you get your gun wet, by all means use WD, but don't use it as a cleaner or a lube.