Trigger Upgrade: Glock 30

[fullautovalmet76]

I have a Glock 30 and have upgraded the trigger bar to 3.5 lbs. The trigger pull is noticeably lighter than the stock pull (5.5 lbs) but is not dramatically lighter than as some assert. A friend suggests that I polish the bar. Is polishing the bar really necessary?

Any informed, well reasoned comments and suggestions are welcome.... 

Thanks!
George
Jacksonville, FL

[m25operator]

The short answer is yes, but let's define polish, BRING TO A HIGH POLISH WHAT IS THERE,  using lightweight polishing techniques, felt wheels with polishing compound, I would not use Cratex unless you know where to apply it. The part you replaced is the connector, and it should be polished, what rubs against it is called the cruciform, and where the 2 meet should be polished, last is the face of the striker where it engages the cruciform. That is the last point of contact as it releases the striker, ( firing pin ) . NO files or abrasive stones except for ceramic should be used, and they will be of little help, because you can't get them in there. I use a little molybednum dysulfide paste on the contact areas.

[fullautovalmet76]

Thanks for the info. I have some polishing paste called "Simichrome Polish". If you are familiar with it, do you think that will work? And I guess that it is applied with a Dremel tool with a felt wheel, right?

Thanks!

[Rob10ring]

Have you heard of Glocks that have had the cruciform polished going full-auto? The Glock armorers at my range say that they've seen it a few times and to leave that part alone. Fortunately, I'm pretty content with the stock connector.

[tombogan03884]

Thanks for the info. I have some polishing paste called "Simichrome Polish". If you are familiar with it, do you think that will work? And I guess that it is applied with a Dremel tool with a felt wheel, right?

Thanks!

Simichrome is a POLISH, Put it on with a soft cloth and rub briskly. You can get a mirror finish. But you will not gain anything by using a Dremel except guages in the surface of the part.

[Sponsor]

[fullautovalmet76]

Thanks, Tom. I did just that and the pull is smoother, all the way to the break.

[tombogan03884]

My rule of thumb at work is the clearer the reflection the smoother the finish

[m25operator]

The only thing I've seen make them double or full auto, was removing metal from the bottom of the striker, don't touch it.

[Trevor]

I am a klutz with tools, so I will not go near a dremel.  A friend of mine says this avoidance puts my manhood in question, but whatever.  I do not want to go digging into perfectly fine parts with "polishing."  That said, to improve my Glock trigger, I went with a lighter firing pin spring and trigger spring, installed the "3.5" factory connector, and applied grease to the spot where the trigger bar and the connector meet.  A lighter firing pin spring is an option too, but I left the factory one on because I want a hard primer strike when the pin goes forward.  My trigger is much improved.  FWIW, I think the Scherer disconnect provides a little shorter reset in contrast to the factory one.  I have used both in my Glock, but for now I am using the factory one.  The rhythm of faster shooting with a Glock trigger is acheived by dry firing to learn where or when the trigger resets without completely going forward.  Once this technique is learned, rapid double or triple taps with the holes in the target touching are possible.  Jeff Cooper once said that only a gorilla can love a Glock trigger.  Well, as one ape to another, let me say that while it will never be as finely-tuned as a 1911 trigger, the Glock trigger has qualities that one can learn to appreciate once it is understood.